Finding a good tailor is not a mystery. Ask friends for referrals. For simple hems, the seamstress at a dry cleaner should suffice, but for more detailed alterations, ask your favorite boutique owner whom she might recommend. Shop owners know who can handle the big jobs—and who cannot. Some department and chain stores offer simple alterations, sometimes for free or a minimal charge. I suggest always using the in-house alteration service if available, as they have a vested interest in getting the job done correctly. Nordstrom, for example, stands behind their tailoring and if the job is botched, they’ll replace the entire garment and make it right.

Let’s take a look at the most common tailoring projects, and how easily these problems can be remedied:

Slacks: The correct length for slacks is ½ inch from the floor. Take the shoes you’ll be wearing to the tailor with you, so they can be hemmed accordingly. Want to wear your slacks with both flats and heels? Sorry—you’re outta luck. The solution? Purchase two pairs of slacks—one for “flats day,” the other for dressing up. If you’re tall, slacks with cuffs that can be let out are the answer. Jeans should be worn a smidge longer—1/4” off the floor is perfect. When shortening jeans, make sure the tailor gives you a “jean bottom” (reattaching the original stitched hemline) maintaining the intended look.

Do you experience “the curse of the curvy girl?” A simple tuck or two in the waistband will eliminate the gap in the back at your waist. You are not cinching it with a belt so it gets all bunchy, are you? I didn’t think so. Sewing side pockets closed, and removing the pocket lining is another key alteration. Those pockets tend to pull at the hips (not pretty), and you’ll get rid of that unsightly mess on your thighs. And with white slacks, it’s an absolute must!

Skirts and dresses: Taking in the side seems can transform an outdated A-line skirt into a form-fitting pencil skirt for a more slender and current look. A cocktail dress can be custom-fitted in a variety of ways—tapering the side seems under the armhole, shortening the straps at the shoulder to lift the entire dress or shortening the hemline to knee-length can take years off the garment…and you! Ask questions and consider the possibilities, rather than casting off a perfectly fabulous frock.

Jackets: Shoulders should only be altered as a last resort. It’s an extensive (and costly) operation, so consider a smaller size. Sleeves should measure approximately five inches from the tip of your thumb, around the place where your wrist bends. In my experience, this is one of the most overlooked alterations!

Tops and T’s: Taper boxy blouses (and jackets) by taking in the excess fabric down the sides of the garment. When a whole new wardrobe is not an option for someone who has recently lost weight, consider this alteration. For petite figures, shortening a regular-sized top or t-shirt will keep you in proportion, and you’ll have many more choices throughout the store.

Basically, it all comes down to one thing…FIT! Make friends with an experienced tailor who will make certain that your clothing fits you just the way it should. Enjoy the benefits of a custom-fitting wardrobe—a super stylish YOU.

As a personal style consultant, I meet women who claim they have no style. Sound familiar? This (experience has shown me) is, frankly, not true. Perhaps you have not yet discovered your personal style. If this is the case, don’t beat yourself up. Chances are you’ve been busy over the years—obtaining a degree, pursuing a career, raising a family, or maybe all of the above—and fashion/style just has not been your top priority. Well, it’s time for a change!

How does the non-fashionista discern her style? Here’s how…

• Step One: Listen to your instincts. If you like easy-to-wear, versatile and classic styles, stores like J. Crew, The Gap and Ann Taylor Loft have great separates that can mix and match easily for a natural or sporty vibe. Khakis, washable tees, and flats are staples in this gal’s wardrobe. On the flip side, if you love body-conscious clothing that reveals your figure, you’re going to shop in the likes of BCBG, Max Studio and Cache. But, be careful, especially in the workplace–you don’t want to undermine yourself by not presenting a professional image.
• Step Two: Look to fashion magazines or catalogs for inspiration. Check out monthly fashion publications for ideas. Look not only at the editorial photos (often fun and wildly artistic), but the ads—they will more likely guide you to “wearable.”
• Step Three: Ask your best girlfriends how they see you. Sometimes, a fresh perspective from someone who loves you will empower you to make a change. If you have a co-worker whose style you admire, ask her where she shops. The goal is to get ideas.
• Step Four: Buy only what you love. This is a big one. If you look in the mirror with a sad face and bad posture, and sigh, “It’s ok”, then the chances that you’ll ever wear that item are slim. And if you haven’t worn a new purchase within three weeks, take it back. Clearly, you didn’t love it, and it will most likely sit in your closet (indefinitely) with the tags still attached. You should be excited and eager to wear every new purchase—getting dressed in the morning really can be fun, not frustrating.
• Step Five: Stay true to your style. “Fashions fade, but style is eternal,” according to Yves Saint Laurent, and there is no truer statement. The trick is to incorporate trends into your look; don’t let them take over. If you are uncomfortable in the “boyfriend jacket,” then wave bye-bye to that particular trend and stick to what works for you.

Now, proceed directly to your closet. Analyze every piece in your wardrobe, and ask yourself, “Do I love it?” If not, then toss it (and by “toss it,” I mean donate or consign it). Be ruthless! You should be left with only clothes that you feel good about, and that enable you to feel gorgeous. Finally, write down your observations—and when you’ve completed this exercise, you should be able to identify your style.

Congratulations! You are now a “fashionista-in-training.” It’s time for some serious shopping!

Carolyn Rovner, AICI, is a certified image consultant and the owner of C2 Style, a personal style consultation service based in Danville. Email your style challenges to her at Carolyn@C2Style.com, and your question could be the topic of a future column.

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