September at the Danville farmers’ market celebrates the best of both worlds. As early fall crops like apples and pears appear, we still have access to irresistible summer fruits like strawberries, figs, and melons. This is also an especially good time to load up on just-picked corn and vine-ripened tomatoes—sweeter than ever, with end-of-summer prices to please your pocketbook. It’s going to be a long, lonely winter without vine-ripened tomatoes, so I plan on getting my fill this month.

I am not one to graciously accept a gratuitous tomato slice in December (or during a lot of other months, for that matter). Spare me tomatoes grown in greenhouses or shipped from faraway lands. I cringe when I see them thrown into salads, tucked inside an otherwise respectable sandwich, or artfully arranged on a dinner plate “for color.” We’ve all endured those anemic orbs—tough on the outside and dry and grainy inside. Mystery produce trying to pass for the real thing. No thank you. I can wait.

The following dish is one way to capture the flavor of summer before it’s too late. Serve this as a side dish or light entrée, with plenty of good crusty bread to mop up the juices. Use the most flavorful tomatoes you can find—any color and any variety; they don’t need to be picture-perfect. And when possible, use a combination of green and yellow zucchini—the contrasting ribbons of color provide added visual interest.

Zucchini Linguine with No-Cook Tomato Sauce
For the No-Cook Tomato Sauce:
1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, crushed through a press
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of crushed hot red pepper flakes
4 to 6 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds assorted vine-ripened tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
about 1/3 cup coarsely torn or chopped fresh basil

For the Zucchini Linguine:
2 pounds small-to-medium zucchini or other summer squash, skin on
2 to 3 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Salt

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. In a large serving bowl, mix together 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, the garlic, salt, and pepper flakes. Use a fork to blend in the 4 tablespoons of oil. Gently stir in the tomatoes and basil, to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes or as long as 2 hours to blend flavors. Taste, adding more vinegar, salt, pepper flakes, or oil if needed.
2. Rinse the zucchini well with cold water and pat dry. Trim off and discard the ends. Using a julienne peeler* or mandoline, peel the zucchini lengthwise, evenly working your way all around the squash, and dropping the strips into a large bowl. Continue peeling the firm flesh until you reach the seed core; discard the core. Peel all the remaining zucchini in the same manner. Gently toss the strips to separate them.
3. In a large skillet, warm the oil over medium heat. Working in batches if necessary, add the zucchini and season lightly with salt. Using tongs, toss the zucchini gently to coat with oil. Continue cooking, stirring and tossing, until the zucchini is warm and wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a warm serving platter or shallow bowl.
4. Pour the tomato sauce over the zucchini and toss again. Serve at once, and pass Parmesan cheese at the table. Serves 4 to 6.

* A julienne peeler is an inexpensive gadget to make matchstick-size strips of any length. You’ll find them in cookware shops and in the housewares department of many well-stocked supermarkets. Alternatively, use a potato/vegetable peeler to shave strips from the zucchini; then use a knife to cut each strip lengthwise into thin ribbons that resemble linguine.

This recipe adapts well to improvisation, so set your spirit free.

• For variation, toss Zucchini Linguine with pesto instead of tomato sauce, perhaps adding a few toasted pine nuts or sliced almonds.
• Serve Zucchini Linguine without the tomato sauce as a vegetable side dish, sautéed in olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. Finish it off with a little fresh Parmesan, finely grated lemon zest, or minced fresh herb if you like.
• For a faster, heartier dish, combine No-Cook Tomato Sauce with 1 pound of freshly cooked pasta instead of zucchini.
• Toss in about 4 ounces of room-temperature fresh whole milk mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch pieces; or tiny boccacini. The heat from the just-cooked zucchini (or pasta) will gently melt the cheese, adding gooey richness. If mozzarella doesn’t suit your mood, try another soft cheese like Italian Taleggio or goat cheese.
• Vary the herb in the sauce according to whim: chopped fresh mint is zesty and refreshing; tarragon brings a decidedly French accent; cilantro makes me think Mexico—and prompts me to add a pinch of ground cumin, finely chopped jalapeño, and a handful of fresh corn kernels. And when you’re faced with picky eaters at your table, good ol’ reliable parsley adds color and subtle zip without causing them undue anxiety.
• Onion lovers should seize this opportunity to add a bit of thinly sliced mild onion— or green onions—to the tomato sauce. Chopped sweet bell pepper is another tasty tidbit; ditto for pitted olives, capers, and anchovies.

Come to think of it, this might just be a good time to clean out your refrigerator.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Who could complain about a bowl of perfectly ripe raspberries, or a slab of juicy watermelon? Locally grown strawberries, plums, and grapes are as sweet as candy. What possible adornment could improve upon a fragrant, tree-ripened peach or nectarine? Veggies like organically-grown tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, multi-color bell peppers, tender young green beans, and summer squash are often best after little or no cooking, with nothing more than a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Just a few minutes on the grill makes summer’s sweet corn the thing dreams are made of.

Thank thrifty Italians for this ingenious way of pairing summer vegetables with good, crusty bread that has gone stale. Panzanella is ideal for entertaining and potlucks this month, since it doesn’t require an oven and actually benefits from being made in advance. When tossed together, the vegetable juices blend with the fruity olive oil dressing and soften the chunks of dry bread. (In fact, in the Tuscan dialect panzanella translates to “little swamp”—a fitting description of the juice-soaked bread.)

Serve this as a light meal on a hot day, or as a side dish with grilled foods. And don’t skimp on the quality of the ingredients—especially the olive oil. Only the best will do. Fortunately everything is available at the August farmers’ market.

Farmers’ Market Panzanella
(Italian Bread Salad)

When I lack the foresight to reserve bread for making this, I simply start with a fresh loaf. Cut the bread into thick slices and grill over indirect heat, turning several times, until well toasted but not necessarily charred, 5 to 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, tear or cut into bite-size chunks.

2 tablespoons California red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, crushed through a press
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup California extra virgin olive oil
2 or 3 large vine-ripened tomatoes, cut into 3/4-inch dice, juices reserved
3/4 pound of 1- or 2-day-old Tuscan-style bread, torn into bite-size pieces or cut into 3/4-inch chunks (about 6 cups)
1 medium farm-fresh cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded if desired, and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
about 10 large fresh basil leaves, shredded or coarsely chopped*

In a large serving bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste. Mix in the olive oil. Gently stir in the tomatoes and their juices.

Add the bread, cucumber, onion, and basil. Toss gently to moisten the bread. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at cool room temperature for at least 30 minutes or as long as 2 hours to blend flavors. Bread will soften as it absorbs the dressing and vegetable juices. Taste, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Serves 4 to 6.

* For variation, substitute arugula, mint, or flat-leaf parsley for the basil.

Ten Slick Facts
The late food authority and writer Waverley Root observed that the type of fat in which food is cooked defines regional cuisine far more than any other ingredient used in a dish.

Some of the best food in the world comes from olive-growing regions—consider Provence in France, southern Italy, the Catalan section of Spain, and parts of Greece, the Middle East, and California.

During his extensive travels, Thomas Jefferson was so enamored with the taste of olive oil that he tried—unsuccessfully—to cultivate olive trees at his home in Virginia. Fortunately the Franciscans had better luck when they planted mission-variety olive trees in California.

California dominates the domestic olive oil industry, producing 850,000 gallons (worth about $17 million) in the 2009-2010 season.

There are 3 basic types of olive oil. From mildest flavor to most robust, those grades are pure, virgin, and extra virgin. Extra virgin oil comes from the first cold-pressing of olives. Cold-pressing preserves aromatic compounds and higher levels of antioxidants; and produces an oil that is relatively low in acid. (Pale-colored “lite” olive oil is not even a category—it is merely a way to sell flavorless, often chemically rectified oil. Contrary to what producers might have you believe, it is not lower in fat or calories.)

When it comes to fats, olive oil is considered a healthy choice thought to lower the risk of heart disease.

Most olive trees bear fruit only after 3 or 4 years. They reach full maturity at 8 to 10 years, and can continue to produce olives for centuries. (Yes, centuries.) Different varieties of olives ripen at different times.

Olive Arithmetic: It takes between 325 and 500 olives to yield 1 cup of oil.

One tablespoon of olive oil contains119 calories, no carbohydrates, and about 13.5g fat. An opened bottle of olive oil can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.

Both here and abroad, high-quality olive oil is expensive to produce; and added freight costs make it even more so. When a producer sells olive oil directly to consumers at the farmers’ market, the “middle man,” has been eliminated and you are ensured the best price for a superior California oil.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

The farmers’ market doesn’t need any promotion this month; you can pretty much follow your nose to find the best bargains in town. Do I honestly need to wax poetic over the flavor and aroma of an organically-grown tomato? How about snappy-fresh green beans? Or sweet corn on the cob, picked that very same morning? Does your neighborhood supermarket bring in a truckload of juicy, vine-ripened watermelons every Saturday morning? I don’t think so. These are a few of the more obvious summer pleasures available at the market, but some savvy shoppers also zoom in on less popular seasonal treasures.

Cucumbers are a mainstay of the vegetable world. So ubiquitous, that a lot of people don’t even think of them as vegetables. Year ‘round we see them for sale—waxed-up to shine like a new car and piled into towering pyramids in the produce section of supermarkets, where they are periodically misted with a fine spray to provide the allusion of freshness. For better or for worse they’re everywhere—sometimes bitter and hard to digest—mixed with plain yogurt and herbs for a cooling raita; mounded onto crudités platters; and tucked inside prissy little tea sandwiches. Even the lowliest coffee shops routinely toss a few limp, seedy slices into their anemic green salads. For a long time I became so accustomed to lousy cucumbers that I just stopped buying them. But then—ta da!—a revelation. Cucumbers can be crunchy and moist, with a refreshing, slightly grassy aroma. Now is the time to find them; though if you are looking for small ones, you may have to stand in line with the picklers.

Dill pickles seem to get all the attention, and that’s fine with me. I love them; and fortunately there are a lot of good ones available commercially. Bread and Butter pickles are another story. They are really quite easy to make, and the resulting pickles are far more crisp and complex-tasting than the sugary-sweet ones you find on grocery store shelves. My favorite recipe below was inspired by the late great cookbook author, Sheila Lukins.

BREAD & BUTTER PICKLES

4 pounds Kirby (waxless) cucumbers, about 4 inches long, ends trimmed, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices (about 12 cups)
2 pounds small white or yellow onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup coarse (kosher) salt
Ice
3 cups cider vinegar
2 cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
2 teaspoons celery seeds
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

1.Place the cucumbers, onions, and salt in a large bowl and toss well to combine. Completely cover the surface with ice and let stand in a cool place for 2 hours. (This step is necessary to crisp the cucumbers.) Drain, rinse, and drain again.

2.Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, ginger, peppercorns, and pepper flakes in a large, heavy, non-reactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the prepared cucumbers and onions, and return to a boil. Cook 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

3.Pack the hot pickles into 5 or 6 sterilized pint jars, making sure there are no air pockets. Cover with the hot syrup, leaving 1/4 inch of head space in each jar. Seal and process in a boiling-water bath for 10 minutes*, following the instructions provided with the canning jars. Makes 5 or 6 pints.

* If you prefer to avoid the canning process, simply let the pickles cool to room temperature before screwing the lids onto the jars; then store in the refrigerator.

The 411 on Cukes
–Thought to be native to either India or Thailand, cucumbers are one of the oldest cultivated vegetables. Columbus introduced them to the Western world in the late fifteenth century; and by the time the Pilgrims arrived, the Iroquois were already growing them.

–Cucumbers consist of up to 90% water. A cup of chopped or sliced cukes weighs in at a mere 16 calories, is virtually fat-free, and very low in carbs.

–Refrigerate cucumbers—unwashed and unsliced—in an open plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. When handled properly, farm-fresh cucumbers can last up to 1 week.

–Everyone recognizes the long, narrow English hothouse cucumber (sometimes labeled “seedless” or “burpless”) that is unwaxed but encased in plastic to preserve moisture. The common garden-variety cukes sold commercially are often coated with an oily wax substance to prolong their shelf life. (You’ll find them unwaxed at the farmers’ market, so you won’t have to deal with that nasty stuff.) Expand your horizons this month and try a few other varieties, like round lemon cucumbers; narrow Japanese cucumbers with thin, bumpy skin; ridged Armenian cucumbers, which are often long and twisted; and slender, thin-skinned Baby Persian cucumbers. Kirby is actually a generic name for pickling cucumbers. They are bred to be short, slightly chubby, crunchy, and rarely over 4-inches long, with bumpy skin and fewer seeds, making them ideal for any kind of pickle.

–Beat the summer heat with Spa Water: Put some cucumber slices in a pitcher along with a sprig or two of fresh mint; then fill with cool water. Refrigerate at least 2 hours, until the water is icy cold and infused with flavor. To serve, strain or not—as you please. No calories, but plenty of pizzazz.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

There are plenty of reasons for the scarcity of that mythical fruit. First of all, real apricots need to ripen on the tree—which renders them soft and far too fragile for shipping. (In some parts of this country, fresh apricots are considered little more than an urban legend.) Many of the apricot orchards that once blessed California have been replaced by housing developments and office parks, thereby reducing the number of sources for tree-ripened fruit. Due to increased land values, apricot growers who held their ground and stayed in business now must often rely on sales to commercial canners and other fruit preservers in order to remain solvent. Along the way many of them also abandoned organic growing principles in order to meet production demands.

Scientists thought the answer was to develop new bruise-resistant apricot varieties designed to look quite glamorous on the outside for weeks at a time, and withstand all sorts of abuse during transit. Too good to be true? You bet. One bite, and you’ll know you’ve been had. It’s frightening to think there is an entire generation that believes this is how apricots should taste. If you want to experience a real California apricot that isn’t mealy or sour or flavorless—and there’s no tree in your own backyard—you simply have to buy them direct from the grower at the farmers’ market. And make it soon, for apricot season is short but sweet.

Should you tire of eating apricots out of hand (impossible as that may seem), their sweet-tart flavor is a natural in all sorts of desserts. One of the easiest is a crisp—similar to fruit pie, but without the angst. Serve this one with vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt, or a dollop of whipped cream. If you feel the need to jazz it up even further—or you’ve already eaten too many of the apricots you bought for the express purpose of making this crisp—toss in a handful of blueberries, raspberries, or halved and pitted cherries.

This is so good, some people have been known to eat it for breakfast on a warm summer morning. (I’m just sayin’….)

Fresh Apricot Crisp with Cinnamon-Walnut Topping
Apricots do not need to be peeled. Right before using, rinse them under cold water and pat dry. To halve and pit an apricot, use a small, sharp knife to cut along the visible seem that goes all around the fruit; then twist the halves gently in opposite directions, pull apart, and remove the pit.

Topping:
2/3 cup California walnut halves and pieces
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
a generous 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt

Filling:
5 cups pitted and halved tree-ripened apricots, preferably organic (about 2 pounds, or 15
apricots)
1/3 cup granulated sugar (or more, depending on the sweetness of the fruit)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Dash of salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and bake until lightly browned and fragrant, 7 to 9 minutes. Let cool, then chop coarsely.
2. Using an electric mixer or a wooden spoon, cream the butter and sugars together until well blended. Gradually mix in the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. Stir in the walnuts.
3. Loosely pack the mixture into a heavy-duty plastic food storage bag or bowl. Seal airtight and freeze until very firm, at least 4 hours or as long as 1 month.
4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking dish. In a large bowl, toss the apricots with the sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish, forming an even layer.
5. Use a knife to cut and crumble the frozen topping, and scatter it over the apricots. Bake until the topping is golden and the filling is bubbly-hot, about 40 minutes. Let cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve slightly warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Serves 6 to 8.

Mind Your Manners at the Market

• Please leave pets at home. Tempting as it might be, Health Department regulations prohibit them from being inside the market area.
• Do bring your own bag(s) to carry home your purchases. If you don’t plan to go straight home after shopping, pack an ice chest in the trunk of your car.
• Arrive early for the best selection—and also to avoid crowds.
• Before making any purchases, take one quick trip around the market. This way you’ll be able to compare prices and determine what looks best to you.
• Ask questions! Danville is a certified farmers’ market, which means that every vendor is somehow involved in the production of whatever they are selling. You’ve got an expert right in front of you, so storage and cooking tips are free for the asking.
• Save money by buying in bulk. For the best deals, prearrange with friends and neighbors to share flats or crates of farm-fresh produce.
• Bring plenty of cash, preferably in small denominations.
• Plan where you’re going to stash your cash securely, and stick to your plan. Don’t absentmindedly stuff change from a purchase into random pockets or bags, where there is a good chance of losing it. There’s nothing more unsettling than finding a wad of cash on the ground at the market. (Well, okay, for a minute or so it’s exciting…until your conscience kicks in.) If you do find some bills-without-a-body—or you’ve lost some cash of your own—notify your Market Manager, Max Timms. He is the Official Lost and Found Department.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Admittedly this was a long time ago, but I still experience painful flashbacks—and those flashbacks often include a mother-of-the-bride. Any talk of weddings still activates an involuntary eye-twitch.
I must admit, however, that I have attended some rather cool weddings in the past year. And what makes a good wedding? Good food, of course. I may forget what the bridesmaids wore, but I never forget what I ate.

On a sunny afternoon a few weeks ago, my friend Ellen’s daughter exchanged vows on a panoramic bluff overlooking a lush vineyard. What do I remember most? The apple slaw was stellar; as was the towering pyramid of doughnuts offered in lieu of wedding cake.

Last summer my friend Joyce married on safari…in Sonoma. A small group of khaki-clad friends gathered amidst giraffes and zebras on a hot, dusty savanna to quaff chilled champagne and nibble an elegant array of appetizers. Later that afternoon we met up at the main camp for a hearty barbecue buffet, under the watchful eyes of exotic birds. The next morning we abandoned our tents and left the Sonoma Serengeti for another tent…this one pristine and white, erected on the cool green grass of a posh equestrian club only miles away. With the thundering sound of horses galloping nearby, we sipped mint juleps before making a significant dent in perfectly poached and dressed salmon.

A week later I celebrated my beautiful niece Rachel’s wedding at a fabulously funky, century-old factory near downtown Seattle, where the caterers served a brilliant feast based upon local, sustainable foods. My sister and I are still divided over which we liked better: the utterly delicious meal, or the wrought-iron cocktail tree that held hundreds of icy Manhattans. (Hey, we’re Irish.) But everyone agrees the pie buffet was genius.

With all this in mind, I’ve come to the conclusion that being on the receiving-end of catering makes weddings a lot more enjoyable. Nuptials are inevitably preceded by a marathon of warm-up festivities—showers and luncheons and cocktail parties and such—which gives well-wishers the opportunity to host a celebration of their own before The Big Day. These parties are sometimes held in restaurants, but nothing beats the familiar intimacy of home entertaining. This is no time to honor the happy couple with garlic bread and an all-you-can-eat spaghetti feed, however.

This is when you channel your Inner Martha and serve romantic—some might call it precious-food. Bring on the edible flowers and candied lavender buds and little hearts made of who-knows-what. Just make sure it all tastes good, and let there be plenty of it.

Shopping at the farmers’ market ensures the tastiest ingredients…and sometimes the less you do to those ingredients, the better the end result. This month California strawberries suddenly become juicier and sweeter and less expensive-making them a welcome surprise in a savory salad. The interplay of peppery arugula, sweet-tart berries, and sharp, creamy cheese is the whole point of this recipe, so don’t even bother making it with flavorless supermarket produce.

Multiply or divide the ingredients for however many servings you need.
Attractive? Check. Easy? Check. Economical? You bet. Delicious? Definitely.

STRAWBERRY ARUGULA SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND TOASTED ALMONDS
1 cup (4 ounces) sliced California almonds
2 tablespoons raspberry or white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon honey
Salt
1 green onion, minced
6 tablespoons California olive oil
1 1/2 pounds arugula (about 18 cups) or a mixture of arugula, assorted lettuces, and/or baby spinach leaves
2 pint-size baskets California strawberries, hulled and quartered lengthwise
4 to 5 ounces soft California goat cheese, crumbled

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely.
2. To make the vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lemon juice, honey, and a generous pinch of salt. Whisk in the onion; then gradually whisk in the oil until well blended. Taste, adding more salt if needed.
3. Just before serving, combine the arugula, strawberries, almonds, and vinaigrette in a large bowl. Toss gently to mix. Transfer the salad to a large platter or serving bowl, and dot the top with goat cheese. Serve at once.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’
Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Lots has been written lately about becoming a “locovore”—one who exists only foods that are grown locally, usually within 100 miles of your home. This rules out picking up a candy bar at the convenience store; loading up on boxes of mass-produced (and often chemically-enhanced) items from supermarkets and warehouse stores; and sipping that bottled water from Italy. Nada. Anything that has been shipped thousands—or even hundreds—of gas-guzzling miles is off limits.

Living here in paradise makes this exercise a lot easier than if you lived in, say, Fargo, North Dakota. Most growers at our farmers’ market travel within the 100-mile radius, which makes your purchases legit. In addition to the best seasonal fruits and vegetables, there are farm-fresh eggs, locally-made cheeses and other dairy products, artisan breads and baked goods, olive oil, vinegar, honey, juices, pasta, jam, dried fruits and nuts, and quality meats and seafood—all available in an open-air market, serenaded by live music! Is this heaven, or what? A weekly shopping trip to the Danville market will pretty much fulfill your culinary needs. Well, except for that pesky coffee and tea issue. (You may just need to drink more local wine.)

When you think about it, this is some serious stuff. Your doctor would probably be happy to hear you no longer add salt to your food…but then you may want to take advantage of the “Marco Polo Exemption” adopted by some locovores, which gives you a free pass to eat spices and other products-of-value that have been traded across continents for centuries—providing you purchase them from a local vendor. So like most things in life, there is always an angle. But if you’d like to peruse your personal consumption boundaries, check out www.100milediet.org.

I’m not suggesting it’s practical for all of us to follow this way of life, for it takes a fair amount of time and discipline to succeed; but it is definitely something that will improve our eating habits and raise our awareness of what we consume. Even if you decide to become a locavore for just one day a week, it’s something that will be good for you and good for the planet.

The following recipe (which, yes, includes salt and pepper) is suitable for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. This open-faced omelet is delish on its own, but feel free to add a couple of teaspoons of finely chopped mint or parsley (locally-grown, of course) when you want to jazz it up a bit. Serve with crusty bread from the market, along with seasonal fruit or a salad of locally-grown greens dressed with local olive oil and vinegar, and congratulations—you’ve just become a locavore!

Danville Frittata with Asparagus & Goat Cheese

Danville Frittata with Asparagus & Goat Cheese
8 farm-fresh eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons California olive oil
1/2 pound farm-fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
1/2 cup crumbled California goat cheese (about 2 ounces)

1. Break the eggs into a medium bowl. Add the salt and pepper and mix with a fork until just blended. Preheat the oven broiler.
2. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet with an oven-proof handle, tilting the skillet to coat with oil. Add the asparagus and cook over medium-high heat, stirring and tossing, until bright green, about 1 minute.
3. Reduce the heat to medium and spread asparagus in an even layer. Pour in the eggs and cook, using a spatula to lift the edges as they firm up to let the uncooked egg flow under, until the underside is fully set (lift with the spatula to check) but the center is still slightly runny. Shake the pan now and then to make sure the frittata is loose and not sticking. Sprinkle with cheese and place under the broiler until the cheese has softened and the top is very lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Slide the frittata onto a warm serving plate, if desired. Serve warm, cut into wedges. Serves 3 or 4.

ASPARAGUS TIPS
When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvest, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.

Choose asparagus spears that are about the same thickness—that way they’ll cook evenly.

Thick or thin? Like people, it’s all a matter of personal preference. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants produce thicker spears.

To store, wrap asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting off the ends and standing them in a container with about an inch of water, and then refrigerate for an hour or two.

To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or throw them in the compost pile.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

The eat-local-and-organic movement has hit Ireland now, and some of its chefs stand toe-to-toe with the finest in Europe. Hopefully this heralds an end to all the jokes about over-cooked-everything; though to my mind that certainly wasn’t the worst of it.

I grew up in a family that worshiped at the altar of dulse. Not familiar with that word? It’s seaweed. Deep purple clumps of dried algae, native to the damp northern coasts of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Salty, briney, leathery seaweed that requires a fair amount of chewing to get it down. (And for some, I imagine keeping it down is also a consideration.)

Whenever any of my parents’ friends would smuggle in a little tin of dulse from “the old country,” my mother would swoon as though someone had given her a pound of Beluga caviar. Health aficionados now tout dulse for its high mineral content, but back then it was just bonafide contraband…plain and simple. A welcome snack for Irish kids who didn’t know any better.

When it comes to traditional Irish cuisine, soda bread ranks much higher on the popularity scale…for children and adults. This time of year bakeries and supermarkets often sell cellophane-wrapped loaves of dry, leaden, raisin-flecked bread at exorbitant prices; but it’s incredibly easy to make at home. (Just don’t expect to answer the phone while preparing it. Your hands will be a gooey mess.) Unlike temperamental yeast breads, a mere teaspoon of baking soda—when combined with acidic buttermilk—causes it to rise. (Don’t try to use that baking soda that has been sitting in the back of the refrigerator for two years. Trust me, it’s time to shell out 50 cents for a new box.) The only other secret to success is to use moist, freshly dried California raisins from the farmers’ market. The Irish should only have it so good!

While at the market, you may as well buy spuds and cabbage for the classic American-style St. Patrick’s Day dinner. You’ll also find freshly dug beets, early strawberries, and plenty o’ green: artichokes, asparagus, baby lettuces, fava beans, and peas of all persuasions.

Here is the soda bread—or “scon”, as she called it—recipe my mother had already committed to memory when she emigrated to the U.S. in 1928. Or at least it’s a close facsimile. It turns out my sisters and I all have slightly different versions, each hand-written by my mother. Through the years she would tweak it here and there…an egg to make it lighter; a little extra sugar to appease my father’s sweet tooth…but basically this is it. And I think it’s about as good as it gets. Some parts of Ireland favor the addition of caraway seeds or whole wheat flour, but this comes directly from a girl from Donegal, ”where they eat potatoes, skins and all.”

Maggie Doherty’s Irish Soda Bread
4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups California raisins (I use 1 cup each of golden and dark raisins)
2 cups buttermilk
1 egg, lightly beaten

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously grease a cast-iron skillet or a heavy 9-inch round cake pan. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt; whisk gently to blend. Stir in the raisins. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture. Pour in the buttermilk and egg and mix until a stiff dough forms. (Use a wooden spoon if you must, but the most efficient way to mix this extremely soft, sticky dough is with floured hands. Alternatively, the dough can be mixed in a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the dough hook.)
2. Scrape the dough from the bowl and mound it into the prepared pan, forming a round loaf. Lightly moisten your hands with water to smooth the top. Using a serrated knife dipped in flour, score the top with a large X, about 1/2-inch deep. (This not only ensures even baking; it also scares away the devil.) Bake until the loaf is golden brown with a firm crust, and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped with a knife, about 1 hour. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack at least 30 minutes before cutting into slices. Serve warm, at room temperature, or toasted. Makes 1 (9-inch) round loaf. Store airtight at room temperature.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Market Fresh

Okay, maybe this holiday doesn’t incite quite the same revelry associated with several others on the calendar—but it’s all we’ve got right now, so let’s make the most of it. If Valentine’s Day doesn’t resonate with you, this year it happens to coincide with the beginning of the weeklong Chinese New Year celebration—a traditional time for feasting with friends and family. Between the two of these momentous occasions, you’ve simply got to let loose. So whether your plans include a Chinese banquet; spending a romantic day with one special someone; or it’s just going to be you in your Snuggie, watching a stack of DVD’s, a trip to the farmers’ market is in order.

The winter market is filled with all sorts of goodies to please your senses. Diamonds may last forever, but farm-fresh fruits are better for you. 14-karat gold is real nice, but real carrots taste better. Spend a fortune at the florist if you must, but direct-from-the-grower flowers are cheaper and last longer.

You’ll first want to buy a big sack of juicy tangerines or oranges, as these are commonly exchanged as gifts during the Lunar New Year (since their Chinese names are homophones for “gold” and “wealth”). You may also want to pick up some California-grown grapes, in case your Valentine demands you peel a few. For a more conventional celebration, check out the glistening jars of home-style jams and jellies to slather on artisan bread for a lazy breakfast-in-bed; crisp apples; creamy pears; and assorted salad greens and veggies—including, with Mother Nature’s cooperation, early artichokes and asparagus.

To get the party rolling, here is an easy recipe for snacking or giving. Chocolate seemed too predictable for this day, so I made something chewy, nutty, and slightly spicy. Best of all, these taste rich and indulgent without being laden with fat. I’m also going to go out on a limb and say the dates, walnuts, spices, and orange lend a vaguely Asian quality to these bar cookies—along with symbolic sweetness, of course; hence their name. (Cut me some slack, here. Do you really think it was easy to connect these dots?)

Package up these little squares with a lucky red ribbon as a gift for a friend or neighbor, or just eat them all by yourself. February 14 is that kind of a day.

Chewy Year-of-the-Tiger Squares
1 cup coarsely chopped California walnuts
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup dark or light brown sugar
2 large eggs, lighty beaten
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup coarsely chopped pitted California dates
Confectioners’ (powdered) sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Spread the walnuts in a shallow pan and bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool. Leave the oven set at 325.

Line an 8-inch square baking pan with a 16-inch sheet of aluminum foil; press the foil firmly into the corners to make a snug fit, and let the excess foil drape over the sides of the pan. Coat the foil generously with no-stick cooking spray.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, ginger, and cinnamon. Whisk gently to blend.

In a large bowl, beat together the brown sugar, eggs, and orange zest. Gradually stir in the flour mixture until well blended; then stir in the walnuts and dates. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, spreading evenly. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the top appears dry and the edges are beginning to pull away from the edge of the pan. (The center may appear soft and underbaked, but will firm as it cools.) Place the pan on a wire rack to cool completely.

Grasp the overhanging foil to lift the “cookie slab” from the pan in one piece; then place it on a work surface. Using a long, sharp knife, cut into 2-inch squares. Dust lightly with confectioners’ sugar. If made in advance, store in an airtight container. Makes 16 squares.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Market Fresh

Between all the cooking and conversation it became apparent that this executive chef and restaurant owner is, first and foremost, a passionate advocate for home cooking. Like most food pros he opts for locally grown products whenever possible. He’s not pushing any sort of crazy health fad—he made it clear that he can get down with the rest of us when it comes to eating fats and making other questionable dietary choices. He just wants to eat natural, flavorful food; and he knows the best way to do this is to make it yourself.

As a dozen pencils sailed across notebooks to capture his wisdom, Symon said, “The easiest way to improve your food is to improve how you shop. If you can buy food, toilet paper, toys for your kids, and a lawnmower all at the same place, it is time to change your food shopping habits.” Needless to say, he then gave a big shout-out to farmers’ markets. I swooned.

Watchdogs constantly remind us of the perils of eating processed foods, but Symon made the point painfully clear when he poured several teaspoons of salt into the palm of his hand. “This is how much sodium is in a can of soup. Make your own soup, and you control how much salt goes into it.” Point taken.

It’s cold outside. It’s dark. The holidays have taken a toll on us, both physically and economically. Everywhere there are cosmic signs directing us to shape up and live right. Making a pot of soup may just be that first step toward change. It’s cheap. It’s healthy. It’s comforting. And it’s the perfect reason to gather family or friends around your table.

Italians have given us plenty of nourishing recipes to make this easy. Zuppa alla pavese involves frying thick slices of country bread in olive oil; placing them in individual bowls, and carefully cracking in a raw egg or two. When scalding-hot broth is slowly poured over the top, it poaches the egg and softens the bread. Sprinkle on a little grated cheese, and you’ve just made dinner. Acquacotta (literally, “cooked water”) pretty much involves cleaning out your refrigerator in order to make a hearty vegetable soup. Somewhere in between lies minestrone, arguably the most popular one of all.

Old-school minestrone might simmer on the stove for hours, but this souped-up version (sorry!) provides equal amounts of comfort and love in a fraction of the time. Minestrone is also receptive to adding just about any other fresh vegetables you may have on hand—Swiss chard, spinach, mushrooms, and potatoes all come to mind. The more the merrier.

A traditional garnish of freshly grated Parmesan is always welcome, but you may want to take another tip from thrifty Italians and freeze the hard rind leftover from a chunk of Parmesan that’s been grated down to near-nothingness: add the rind to your next soup or stew for extra flavor and body. (Just remember to fish it out of the pot before serving.)

Serve this minestrone with a loaf of crusty bread and a salad of tossed greens from the farmers’ market. And since you’ve already opened a bottle of red wine to make the soup, drinking the rest of it with dinner is the sensible thing to do. For dessert? A perfectly ripe pear. Virtue never tasted so good.

40-Minute Minestrone

40-Minute Minestrone
2 (15-ounce) cans kidney beans, undrained
4 cups water, vegetable stock, or reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
3 zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced
2 celery ribs, chopped
1 leek, white and tender green parts only, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 carrot, chopped
1/3 cup dry red wine
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes, or more, to taste
Optional: the rind from a piece of Parmesan or other hard grating cheese
1 cup uncooked tubetti pasta or small elbow macaroni (about 1/4 pound)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
California extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

1. Empty 1 can of the kidney beans into a soup pot. Using an immersion (stick) blender, process until smooth. (Alternatively, puree in a food processor or blender and scrape into the pot.)
2. Stir in the remaining can of kidney beans, the water or stock, tomato sauce, zucchini, celery, leek, carrot, wine, garlic, pepper flakes, and Parmesan rind, if using. Bring to a boil; then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Stir in the pasta and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes or until tender. Remove and discard the cheese rind. Stir in the parsley and taste, adding salt, pepper, and more hot pepper flakes, if desired. Ladle the soup into warm bowls and drizzle each serving with about 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil. Makes about 2 1/2 quarts, to serve 4 to 6.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Holiday shopping in the open air is a pleasant antidote to indoor malls. I enjoy giving gifts; I just don’t want to spend hours wandering zombie-like through acres of mind-numbing merchandise, with taped carols in the background adding to my mounting anxiety. At the farmers’ market I can easily find delicious ways to pamper my friends, and at the same time support the people who grow the food we eat all year.

A FEW QUICK FIXES FOR SOME OF THOSE TROUBLESOME NAMES ON YOUR SHOPPING LIST:

• A bottle of California olive oil costs a lot less than a good bottle of wine, and will certainly last longer than one evening.
• Salad lovers will appreciate a bottle of good vinegar and a plump head of garlic to go along with that olive oil…and maybe a little bag of California almonds to toast and toss with greens.
• A decorative basket or bowl filled with pomegranates, quince, persimmons, perfect pears, or leafy tangerines makes a fragrant, colorful, and caring gift—both decorative and practical.
• The farmers’ market also has plenty of super-fresh flowers, live plants, and wreaths at highly competitive prices.
• With only a yard of ribbon and an inexpensive basket from an import store, you can purchase a selection of locally grown produce to rival any gift basket that spent days being shipped across state lines.

FOR A PARTICULARLY THOUGHTFUL GIFT, DECIDE ON A THEME AND RUN WITH IT:

• Pile an assortment of crisp apples into a new or vintage pie plate, tuck in your favorite apple pie recipe, and tie it all up with a bow.
• Guarantee tonight’s host a great breakfast tomorrow by bringing a few juicy grapefruit; a jar of glistening jam, locally-produced honey, and a loaf of artisan breadwith or without a new cutting board
• Give your favorite baker a beribboned loaf pan brimming with locally-grown walnuts, dried California apricots, cherries, or raisins; and perhaps enclose a favorite quick-bread recipe.
• Keep friends healthy and happy with a big sack of sweet and juicy organic oranges, paired with a citrus juicer

Once I’ve resolved the gift-giving dilemmas, I move on to my personal needs. I stock up on plenty of fresh vegetables to make nourishing, comforting soups and stews; as I consider what to contribute to all the potluck gatherings in the days ahead. Along with all the rich appetizers piled onto buffet tables this month, the presence of a few crisp vegetables—with or without an accompanying dipping sauce—is always appreciated. I’m not talking about those giant party platters from the refrigerated section of the supermarket or warehouse store—you know, the ones that feature an uninspired melange of stubby carrots, rock-hard cherry tomatoes, and roughly-cut vegetables that have all been rinsed in chlorine, or worse, to preserve “freshness” and reduce contamination. No, I’m talking about locally grown, snappy-crisp vegetables that taste like real food.

In California we often equate guacamole with mounds of greasy tortilla chips and margaritas and poolside summer parties, but it also makes a welcome addition to holiday parties…especially when paired with cauliflower and broccoli florets, red bell pepper strips, radishes, and crunchy sticks of celery and jicama.

Guacamole is best made with Haas avocados—the plump ones with bumpy black skins,which are far richer and meatier than other varieties. This recipe relies on clean, simple flavors, but feel free to add a bit of ground cumin, a clove or two of minced garlic, chopped fresh cilantro, any other Latin flavors that appeal to you.

The added step of rinsing the avocado may seem odd, but it is the best way I’ve found to prevent darkening.

GUACAMOLE WITH JALAPEÑO & LIME
3 ripe avocados
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt
1 tomato, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup finely chopped white, red, or green onion
1 seeded and finely chopped jalapeño chile pepper

1. Cut the avocados in half lengthwise and discard the pits. Using a large spoon, scoop the flesh from the skins and rinse quickly in a bowl of cold water to prevent the avocado from darkening. Drain well.

2. In a medium bowl, use an old-fashioned potato masher or the tines of a fork to mash the avocados, leaving some texture.
Mix in the lime juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt; then stir in the tomato, onion, and jalapeño.

Taste, adding more salt if needed. Transfer to a small bowl and serve at once, or cover with plastic wrap directly touching the surface and refrigerate for
up to 4 hours. Makes about 3 cups, to serve 10 to 12.
Recipe adapted from Great Party Dips by Peggy Fallon (John Wiley & Sons 2009)
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.