Got the January doldrums? Tired of cold weather? Feeling financially depleted? Weary of restaurant meals and fancy party food? Yearning for some quiet time at home? I think I know the answer to your dilemma. It sounds like a good day for soup.
So why not make an outrageously good, budget-friendly main course made from ingredients you may already have in your pantry? And, in deference to all the born-again dieters out there, the carbs and calories in classic onion soup gratinee are dramatically reduced by omitting the bread and gooey cheese. The soup is delicious without them, though certainly not as luxurious. (If it’s a clean-out-the-produce-drawer kind of day, feel free to add celery, carrot, and other veggies to make the soup more substantial.)
But if you are ready to fall face-first into some New Year’s decadence, sit right next to me. Converting this recipe to the more familiar flavors of French onion soup requires minimal effort for maximum flavor. I’ve added the instructions at the end of the recipe. As we say in California, bon appetit!
California Onion Soup
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut up
2 tablespoons California olive oil
6 medium onions (2 1/2 to 3 pounds) halved and sliced about 1/8-inch thick (about 6 cups total)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/4 cup dry sherry, dry white wine, or brandy
4 cups beef stock, store-bought or homemade
1 cup water
Optional: 1&1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Freshly grated Dry Jack or parmesan cheese
- In a soup pot or other heavy-bottomed 4- to 6-quart pot, melt the butter in the oil over medium heat.
- Stir in the onions and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat well. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and let cook for 15 minutes, until the onions are very soft.
- Uncover the pot and increase the heat to medium. Let cook, stirring frequently, for about 40 minutes, or until the onions are deep golden brown. Adjust the heat as needed to avoid burning.
- Stir in the flour and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the flour turns golden, about 5 minutes.
- Stir in the sherry and cook 3 to 5 minutes longer. Stir in the stock, water, and thyme, if using. Cover and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste, adding more salt and pepper as needed.
- Ladle the hot soup into 4 bowls and pass the grated cheese at the table.
To Make French-Style California Onion Soup Gratinee, you will also need:
8 slices Gruyere cheese, plus 1 generous cup shredded
2 cups homemade or store-bought plain croutons, or 8-to-12 toasted baguette slices
- After Step #5 above, preheat the broiler. Place 4 ovenproof crocks or bowls on a foil- or parchment-lined baking sheet.
- Divide the hot soup equally among the bowls. Cover each with 2 slices of cheese and top with 1/2 cup croutons; then sprinkle a generous 1/4 cup of shredded cheese evenly over all. Place the baking sheet about 6 inches from the broiler and broil, watching carefully, until the cheese is bubbly-hot and lightly browned. Serve warm.
Cook’s Tips
# If you are skilled with a knife, go for it! Otherwise, use the slicing blade on a food processor or a mandoline to cut the onions.
# Cooking onions “low and slow” results in caramelization, and elevates this humble vegetable to one of the tenets of haute cuisine. Many good cooks keep a batch of caramelized onions in the refrigerator, at the ready to add richness and instant depth of flavor to sautés, stews, and sauces. (Prepare the onions through Step #3 above. Let cool, and refrigerate in a sealed container.)
You can also create your own California Onion Dip by mixing caramelized onions with sour cream, a drizzle of California olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste.
# For those who follow a strict vegetarian diet, substitute good-quality vegetable stock for the beef stock in this recipe.
#If you prefer to avoid alcohol substitute water or stock for the sherry, and add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to brighten the flavors.
# If you are indulging in the more traditional version of onion soup, do opt for Gruyere cheese whenever possible. Its texture, melting quality, and slightly nutty flavor outshine any other Swiss-style cheese.
But for a change of pace, a goodcheddar also works surprisingly well.
It’s a Cryin’ Shame….
# There are more than 500 hundred varieties of onions, but they all fall into three major categories: Common “storage onions” have protective papery skins and can be kept for long periods of time. They have a more pronounced heat that mellows with cooking—as in the soup recipe above. Storage onions should be kept in a paper (not plastic) bag in a pantry or other cool, dry place, away from potatoes or other vegetables.
“Sweet onions” are grown seasonally in various parts of the world. Although they have a much shorter shelf life, they are considerably milder and release no fumes when cut.
Finally there are “fresh onions” with green stalks, such as spring onions and scallions, which are the most perishable of all. These should be stored in an open plastic bag in the produce drawer of the refrigerator.
# Although you should not routinely refrigerate storage onions, refrigerating them for 30 minutes or so before slicing seems to tame their sometimes pungent fumes.
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The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.
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