As the dog days of summer while away, savvy Americans from sea to shining sea are enjoying the thirst-quenching flavor of dry rosé wine. What’s in our glasses today is a far cry from the rosés of days gone by. Americans have upgraded their drinking habits by leaps and bounds.
All the way up to the turn of the century, the USA was not considered a wine-drinking nation. Sure, we dabbled in wine, but it was a mere drop in the bucket compared to the wine consumption of Europeans, who have a centuries-old tradition of wine appreciation. There is a certain snobbism among wine drinkers that rosé wine is somehow sub-standard. This is decidedly far from the truth and that perception is rapidly changing.
Sweet, sparkling rosé wine was popular in the USA in the second half of the 20th century. The enterprising Portuguese observed the penchant of American GI’s for sugary drinks and endeavored to create a local wine that followed this taste profile. The birth of the popular Mateus and Lancer’s saccharine, bubbly rosé wine resulted.
The ever-popular “white zinfandel” wine was developed by accident by the Trinchero family. When the fermentation of their Zinfandel-based rosé wine stuck, causing the wine to be much sweeter than originally intended, the family bottled it anyway, and the public loved it. The wine was dubbed “white zinfandel,” in order to attract white wine drinkers who associated the name “Zinfandel” with red wines.
White zinfandel actually bears little resemblance to wine at all—truly more of a “wine beverage.” As the popularity of the ubiquitous white zinfandel grew, so did the company’s commitment to preserving the sameness of flavor from bottle to bottle. While the great Champagne houses also value house-style and continuity of flavor in their non-vintage champagne, it is achieved through painstaking effort and no expenses spared. This is decidedly not the case with white zinfandel.
Because the market price for white zinfandel is set very low for bulk production, producers have no choice but to use cheap, plentiful, and (more or less) flavorless grapes. The addition of coloring agents and sugar keeps the flavor and color constant.
The result is a sweet, over-processed, lightly alcoholic drink. Some say this tarnishes the good name of zinfandel. This is a shame because perfectly wonderful rosé can be produced from Zinfandel grapes. Look for rosés from areas such as California’s Sierra Foothills, where high-quality Zinfandel grapes are grown.
All red wine grapes can be used to produce rosé wine. The methods of rosé wine production vary among winemakers, but the most common procedure is called the “Saignée method,” or “bleeding method.” The Saignée Method involves crushing red wine grapes and draining off the resulting light pink juice after just a short exposure to the grape skins. The skins add not just color but tannins and additional flavors to the wine, increasing its complexity. Only French Champagne makers create rosé wine by mixing red wine with white.
Rosé wine is now produced around the world with great enthusiasm. In general, the rosés from New World regions like California and Australia are bigger in body and more fruit-driven. Rosés from cooler regions such as Germany and Austria tend to be lighter in body, with lower alcohol, and less fruit on the palate.
Of all the European nations, France has the greatest history and tradition of producing and consuming rosé wine. The south of France is known for its fabulous rosé production, some of the finest coming from the charming seaside town of Bandol, home to Domaine Tempier and Domanine Ott. These wines are pale pink to an almost onionskin-color, with high acid and a distinct minerality on the palate. The price is higher than rosés from other regions but the quality is premier.
The little French village of Tavel exclusively produces rosé wine. In fact, wine producers are legally bound to only produce pink. The wines of Tavel are a darker and more intense color than most southern French rosés. They are worth seeking out as their dry, elegant wines have a beautiful intensity of flavor that will keep you coming back for more.
This summer, don’t just buy the first rosé you spot at the market. There are clear differences that, if identified, will drastically elevate your wining and dining experience. After all, with a delicious glass of chilled rosé, simple eating becomes dining and a meal becomes a feast.
Bon appétit. And cheers!
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