March is a transitional month at the farmers’ market, when spring crops slowly find their way back into our weekly meals. Few can resist the lure of early strawberries—and, to my way of thinking, no one should.
But we’re also presented with a glorious proliferation of green, with artichokes; avocados; fava beans; tiny spring lettuces; baby spinach; and tender young peas of all persuasions—from common peas-in-the-pod to crunchy sugar-snaps. We’ll also want to stock up on crisp green cabbage and the numerous potato varieties so integral to St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. In the non-edible category, fresh-cut flowers abound. Always the perfect antidote to a gloomy day!
Unlike the cases of stuff that are floor-stacked year ‘round at the warehouse store, spring asparagus is oh-so-tender with an incomparably delicate, sweet taste. Fortunately, much of our nation’s supply is grown locally, so freshness is a given. What we find at the farmers’ market is not only top-quality, it has been harvested within the past 24 hours. Never shipped half-way around the country. Or world.
Following its initial arrival at the market, I am perfectly content with a big platter of au natural oven-roasted asparagus spears at suppertime. Other times I will garnish it with a couple of softly-boiled egg halves, or a shower of toasted artisan breadcrumbs, almonds, finely shredded Parmesan cheese, finely grated lemon or zest, or chopped fresh chives. Other times, I’ll share the love by incorporating those sexy spears into a crowd-pleasing dish for friends.
This month’s recipe is an upscale take on pasta salad, starring some of my favorite flavors. I may be Irish-American by birth, but always Italian at heart.
Roasted Asparagus Salad with Tortellini
2 pounds farm-fresh asparagus
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup California extra virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt
About 1 pound fresh or frozen cheese-filled tortellini or other filled pasta
1 garlic clove, minced or crushed through a press
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar or white wine vinegar
1/4 cup coarsely chopped pitted kalamata olives
1 green onion (scallion), white and green parts thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
2 large handfuls baby arugula or spinach leaves
A small chunk of Pecorino Romano, Parmesan, or other hard cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut off and discard the tough ends from the asparagus spears; then cut the stalks diagonally into 2-inch pieces. On a large baking sheet, combine the asparagus and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toss to coat with oil and spread in an even layer. Season lightly with salt. Bake until the asparagus is barely tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon thickness. Set aside to cool.
2. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the tortellini as the package directs. Drain in a colander, rinse under cold running water to cool, and drain well.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the garlic, vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil until well blended. Add the roasted asparagus, tortellini, olives, green onion, and sun-dried tomatoes. Toss gently to coat with the dressing. Mix in the arugula. Arrange the salad on a large rimmed platter. Use a vegetable peeler to shave cheese over the top. Serves 8.
To keep the colors, textures, and flavors at their peak, it is best to assemble this salad shortly before serving. All the various components, however, can be prepared up to 1 day in advance. To do this:
-Roast the asparagus; let cool; and refrigerate in a covered bowl.
-Cook the tortellini as directed; toss with a bit of olive oil and refrigerate in a covered bowl. The tortellini will stick together, so—just before using—rinse again in a colander to separate.
-Mix the vinaigrette in a small jar and refrigerate.
-Slice the green onion and chop the olives and sun-dried tomatoes and refrigerate.
ASPARAGUS TIPS
• When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvesting, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.
• If your taste leans toward the exotic, remember that white asparagus is comparatively bland; and that purple asparagus turns green when cooked.
• White asparagus is the very same vegetable; it’s just grown differently. The stalks are covered with soil during the growing period to block out the sun, so they never produce chlorophyll—and therefore never turn green.
• To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.
• Thick or thin? Like people, it’s often the luck of the draw. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants tend to produce thicker spears. It’s as simple as that.
• To store, wrap unwashed asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in an open plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inch of water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
• To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim off the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends…or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at First & Oak Streets, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.
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