Q. I have an Apricot tree that is four years old. I’m surprised by how big it’s grown since it’s a dwarf tree. How much should I cut it back, and should it be done now?
A. I’m assuming your tree is a semi-dwarf apricot. Semi-Dwarf fruit trees are not as dwarf as people expect, growing to eighteen feet with a ten-foot spread. They’re still classified as dwarf compared to the larger growing standard apricot and other types of deciduous fruit trees. So when purchasing a dwarf tree, you should ask the question, How dwarf is dwarf? Deciduous fruit trees are pruned annually when they’re dormant in January and February. However, there is no problem with pruning in the fall, and it’s recommended with apricots. Apricots are susceptible to an airborne disease that enters through new pruning wounds, so they’re pruned when there is a ten-day period of dry weather. We remove about twenty-five percent of the growth each year. All apricots’ varieties maintain the same general growth habit, so the same pruning rules apply to all varieties. Prune out enough branches to evenly shape the canopy, selecting old wood whenever possible. This spacing allows the sunlight to penetrate all parts of the fruit-producing branches evenly. The majority of the fruit is borne on second-year old wood. You can differentiate growth by color. The new growth is a light color, while the older shoots are dark. The long whip branches that grew during the summer are the fruit-producing wood for the coming year, so do not cut them too freely. The outside branches of apricots tend to lower each year with the weight of the fruit and foliage. They may be cut off the tree and replaced with new branches from the inside growth. Apricot wood is brittle, so care should be taken not to let the branches spread laterally to a great distance. Favor erect growth whenever possible. A sturdy framework is desired even at the expense of fruit production. Several pruning books are available that you can use as a reference, or you might attend a pruning demonstration this month at your favorite garden center.
Q. I planted Primroses last fall, and they look great except for one problem. The flower clusters are stretching and flopping over instead of being just above the foliage. What can I do to prevent this?
A. This is a common occurrence with the Pacific Giant Hybrid variety of English Primrose, as they’re reacting to the change in day length. As the days get longer, the stem that supports the flower cluster stretches, and it falls over when it gets top-heavy. Moisture collecting in the florets and wind contribute to the problem. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can do to change this, but you can avoid this problem by planting the ‘acaulis’ or dwarf variety of primrose. The flowers of the ‘acaulis’ varieties are not borne in a cluster on a single stem; instead, individual stems support each flower floret. The other major difference from the Pacific Giant Hybrids is that these stems don’t stretch over time. They’re day length neutral; hence, the flowers will always be just above the foliage and no higher. They grow four to eight inches tall and six to eight inches wide, with a full range of colors. The one negative is that they can develop a gray fuzzy mold called Botrytis in prolonged wet conditions. Fungicides can be applied, but dry conditions are the best method of curing this disease.
Q. I’m growing sugar peas. They are starting to sprout, but the snails are eating the leaves. I can’t put down bait because of my granddaughter. I’ve tried eggshells. So. you think if I put down rinsed smashed crab shells would work? Or would it attract other critters? Any suggestions?
A. I don’t know for sure that it would work. But, It wouldn’t hurt to try. Also, I don’t think the crab shells would attract any other critters. Another option is to apply Sluggo. Sluggo is an organic snail bait that will control the snails without hurting domestic animals. During the rainy season, you’ll need to reapply the bait often.
Q. Our lemon tree seems to be dying as the leaves are falling off. It started after our Hot Tub developed a significant leak. Bromine and other chemicals in the water flooded the area. What will the bromine do to the tree?
A. Lemons do not tolerate high levels of bromide, and it’s the cause of the leaf drop. The stems and branches then turn brown and die. The immediate solution would to water heavily with clean water to leech the bromine out of the root zone. However, the area was flood with contaminated water, so that isn’t an option. The rainy season will help, but it may be too late. There isn’t much else you can do but wait for spring. If you don’t see any new growth by next May, I’d replace the lemon,
Leave a Reply