Buzz Bertolero

The Dirt Gardener – Pruning Tomato Plants

August 5, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero 1 Comment

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Q. Why should I prune my tomato plants? I’ve been told I should. They’re in cages and seem to be thriving with tomatoes nearing maturity. In addition, can I save the seed from these plants for next year?

A. Yes, tomatoes are pruned but not like a rose, fruit tree or hedge. It’s better described as a thinning by removing the side shoots of each plant. With the indeterminate tomato varieties, this is an important practice throughout the growing season while the determinate varieties have a shorter growing season that lessens the necessity to thin. Indeterminate plants are a vigorous grower creating very dense conditions in cages. The dense growth can lead to several cultural issues over their prolonged growing season. The lack of light forces the center of the plant into permanent shade, causing the foliage to discolor and fall off. The lack of sunlight minimizes or eliminates photosynthesis from occurring in these leaves. Photosynthesis is critical in forming the green pigment, chlorophyll and plant sugars. Most of the sugar is directed toward the production of tomatoes. An excessive amount of vegetation increases the number of smaller sized fruits. Thinning or removing the side shoots increases the amount of light into the center of the plant. This growth is found emerging next to a leaf where it is attached to an established stem. Typically, this is done throughout the spring and summer months. There are no set rules as to how much or how often this would be done. It’s strictly a judgment call on your part. Another reason for opening up the plants, it makes it easier to spot the early damage from Tomato Hornworms. Tomato Hornworm is a green segmented, worm that can be a problem June through September. Hornworm is the larva stage of the Sphinx Moth and you can have multiple infestations each year. Their green color makes it easy for them to blend into the foliage. You need to be on the lookout for them now. The worms can strip a plant quickly of leaves exposing the maturing tomatoes to Sunburn damage.

You can save the tomato seed for planting next year. But that’s the wrong question to ask. The question should be; Is this a variety worth the time and effort to save? All tomato plants produce seed but not all varieties are predictable from year to year. The genetic characteristics of hybrid varieties vary greatly in the seed they produce. The only way to exactly duplicate these varieties is to plant new seed. Hence, it’s not suggested or recommended saving seed from hybrid varieties as you’ll more than likely be disappointed with the results. This is not the case with the open pollinated varieties. They are genetically stable as many of these varieties have been around for decades. If you’re not sure what you have contact your favorite garden center. They can help out with questions concerning indeterminate, determinate, hybrid and open pollinated varieties.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook/.com/Buzz.Bertolero

The Dirt Gardener – Thanks for Asking

July 7, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I have several lovely Fuchsias hanging on my back porch. Should I clip off the old flowers along with the little green bud above it or leave them? Also, how do I get them to flower more often?

A. Fuchsias are just gorgeous at this time of the year. I particularly enjoy the trailing varieties like you have. Fuchsias are not that difficult to keep compact and loaded with flowers right on through the fall. It starts in the spring around St Patrick’s Day with a severe pruning. The long and now leggy branches from the previous year should be cut back to the edge of the container while reducing the height by a third. In many cases, you’ll be removing fifty-percent or more of the previous year’s growth and this would be normal. The new growth should begin on short, stubby old growth; otherwise, the plants will have a shaggy growth habit the rest of the year and never truly be full like they are now. In addition, Fuchsias bloom only on the current year’s growth, never on the previous years or old wood. To increase the flush of flowers, you need to pinch back the new growth during the growing season and remove the old and faded flowers regularly. This is called “Deadheading.” If left alone, the old Fuchsia flowers do drop off but not before, they form a seedpod. The seedpod is the round, green structure that forms at the end or top of the flower just before the flower petals. Some folks refer to it as a berry as it remains after the old flowers drop off while others think of it is a new flower bud. Unless you’re a hybridizer, the formation of the seedpod(s) is a lot of wasted energy that the plant can then use to produce new flowers. The old flowers can be cut or pinched off. I’m not that particular what you use, it could be a pair of scissors, hand shears or just your fingers. The seedpods do pull off easily. By continually deadheading your Fuchsia plants during its growing season, you can maintain a high volume of blooming flowers and reducing the amount of the seedpods. The other advantage is you minimize the mess from the fallen flower parts under the plants that has to be cleaned up. Fuchsias should be fed regularly to encourage the new growth. A monthly feeding from March through October is recommended. Old school gardeners would use Fish Emulsion through July and then switch to 0-10-10 for the balance of the year. Today, you can use Miracle Gro, Dr Earth, Osmocote and others. The nitrogen in these fertilizers promotes the lush green foliage. By July, the plants should have enough size so you should lower the nitrogen and increase the phosphorus and potassium for flower production. Liquinox Bloom, O-10-10 or similar fertilizer is suggested for the balance of the year. In summary, feed often and remove the old flowers along with the seedpods is how you keep your Fuchsia blooming.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook/. com/Buzz-Bertolero

Dirt Gardener – Mosquitoes and Old Wine

June 10, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero 1 Comment

Q. Is there a way to prevent mosquitoes from breeding in my pond? I’m not having a problem; yet, but afraid it’s not too far off?

A. Mosquito’s are easily controlled in ponds, fountains, water gardens, and birdbaths with a larvicide. They’re only going to be a problem where water is stationary and not moving. In addition, I’d also include any saucer where water may collect for more than twenty-four hours. With the concerns with West Nile Virus, we need to be diligent in controlling Mosquito’s once the rainy season concludes.

A Larvicide is an insecticide that specifically targets the larval stage of an insect. Besides mosquitoes, they’re commonly applied to control the larva or worm stage of caterpillars such as the Tomato Hornworm, Cabbage Loppers and Budworm on petunias and geraniums. For the home and garden, the typical Larvicide for caterpillars is Bacillus thuringiensis, also known as Bt, while Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, known as Bti, and Bacillus sphaericus, is used specifically for mosquitoes. When ingested, the target insects get a fatal case of the stomach flu as the bacteria crystallize a toxin that destroys their digestive tract. They’re naturally occurring bacterium and pose no threat to kids, pets, other insects or the environment. In water, Mosquito Dunks and Bits, made by Summit Chemical Co are available for controlling mosquitoes. The Mosquito Dunk is a solid material in the shape of a donut. They float on the water’s surface and will keep on working for thirty days or longer. While floating, they slowly release the larvicide on the waters surface where it is eaten by the mosquito larvae, which then die before reaching maturity. You would apply one dunk per one hundred square feet of surface water. They can easily be broken up to treat small areas and any unused dunks retain their potency so you can store them indefinitely. Mosquito Bits are designed to provide a quick kill when a large population of mosquito larvae is present. They’re also used in those areas where the dunks are not practical such as in saucers. These fast acting control needs to reapplied every fourteen days.

Note: It is the female mosquito and not the male that bite. Her typical life span in nature is two weeks. Mosquito’s don’t produce venom. Instead, the saliva from the bite is what causes the pesky welt and the bothersome itching.

Q. Is it okay to recycle old wine in the garden? We want to discard a number of full or partly full old bottles. So far, we have hesitated for fear that it might not be a good thing.

A. With old wine, I’d pour it down the drain and not on your compost pile or around plants. Like a wine barrel, the pungent fragrance of the wine could last for an extended period of time. My horticultural concern is what if the wine has turned to vinegar. Plants could be damaged from the highly acidic liquid. I see very little value in disposing of it in a garden.

Dirt Gardener – Dandelions

May 1, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Dandelions have invaded my lawn and are taking it over. I’ve tried pulling them up by the roots but they only come back. The spray on Dandelion Killer just wilted them a little bit. What do I do next?

A. Dandelions are generally thought of as a weed but they’re lots of positive things to say about them. They’ve been around since the tenth century and are known as the Swine’s Snout, Yellow Gowan, Irish Daisy or Peasant’s Cloak. The juice of the plant’s root is still used to treat diabetes, to build up the blood and used as a mild laxative.

During WWII, Dandelions were cultivated for the latex extracted from the roots that was then used to make rubber. The foliage is more nutritious than spinach. It’s high in vitamins A and C, and contains impressive levels of other elements. This being said, they’re still undesirable in lawns and fit the classic definition of a weed, any plant growing where it’s unwanted or undesired. The same would be true of a rose growing in a wheat field. The Dandelion is among the most recognizable of plants. It tolerates many types of soil, from loose sand to compacted clay. The yellow flower forms a puffball, which contains the seeds and is dispersed by wind or kids of all ages as they enjoy watching the feathery material float away.

You can successfully rid a grass lawn of Dandelions with a little patience. They’re controlled without herbicides by mowing the turf often to prevent the puffy seed heads from forming and dousing the plants with boiling water. However, manually digging them out is by far the most widely used method. You do not solve the problem by yanking them up or cutting off the top growth. To be successful you must remove the long taproot entirely, otherwise, they return. Many garden centers have a Weeder that is ideal for removing Dandelions. The tool looks like a long screwdriver with a ‘V’ shape end that resembles a whale’s tale. Depending on the extent of the problem, hand weeding can be a tedious task. In these cases, a selective herbicide for broadleaf weeds is a more efficient answer. The primary solutions are ‘Weed and Feed’ turf products and liquid herbicides. With ‘Weed and Feed’ products please read the instructions. All too often, applicator error is primarily the reason for poor results. They’re best applied with a drop type spreader, and not a hand held one. In addition, it’s also critical when and when not to water. There are many brands of liquid herbicides available that kill Dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. You’ll find premixed solutions or concentrates that have to be mixed up before applying. Bayer Season Long Weed Control for Lawns is one of the newest herbicide for turf. It’s unique in that it kills the existing Dandelions and then it prevents the dormant seed from germinating for six months. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource to review your options and make a recommendation.

Getting Rid of Liquidamber

March 10, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. What is the name of the tree that drops thousands of pokey seed balls all over the sidewalk every winter? I’ve almost broken my ankle on them! How can I get rid of the balls without getting rid of the tree?

A. The Liquidambar, the American Sweet Gum, is the name of the tree that produces the annoying seedpods that are spiny and brown in color. It’s an elegant, columnar tree with large maple shaped leaves that provides beautiful fall color. Unfortunately, their popularity is declining because of the nuisance they create and the problematical surface roots. The seedpods of the Liquidambars start to drop as the fall color fades and the leaves fall. This shedding continues until the new foliage emerges in the spring. You avoid this problem by spraying the tree with Florel Fruit Eliminator by Monterey Lawn and Garden when it is in bloom. Yes, Liquidambar trees do flower. The flowers aren’t particularly attractive and the seedpods develop as a result of pollination. Fortunately, the seedpods are sterile; otherwise, you’d have hundreds of new seedling trees each year. Liquidambars produce individual male and female flowers just as the new leaves are emerging. The flowering cycle should begin around the first week in March, so be on the look out for it. The female flower is a greenish color and circular in shape, while the male flower is shaped more like a tassel. They eventually fall off creating a short-term mess within a couple of weeks of opening. The female flower is an incomplete flower, as it has no sepal or petals. After fertilization, the light green seedpods develop in clusters. They usually quite heavy that cause some of the immature branches to be permanently bend. As they mature they become very light and airy. Once formed, you can manually remove the seedpod clusters but this is a tedious task. Hence, aborting the formation by spraying the flowers with Florel is advantageous. Florel is not an insecticide, fungicide or miticide. It’s a plant growth regulator that prevents the formation of the seedpods. It is also applied to Olive, Flowering Plum, Crabapple trees and others that produce a messy fruit. Florel is widely available at independent garden centers and other lawn and garden retailers. Again it’s critical that Florel is applied when the tree is in bloom. Several applications are necessary as the flowers open progressively over several weeks. Mother Nature can help by rainy during the flowering cycle. I’ve been successful controlling about eighty percent of the problem by applying Florel with a hose end-sprayer. Today, reaching the top of a mature tree is a problem even with a ladder.

Note: You’ll find images of the flowers on my web site www.dirtgardener.com. The link is at the bottom of the home page is the right hand corner.

Dirt Gardener – Lichen & Cymbidium Orchids

January 29, 2012 by Buzz Bertolero 1 Comment

Q. I have a bluish green fungus like growth on the branches of my apricot and plum trees. I’ve made two applications of Copper Sulfate a week apart but I haven’t seen any improvement. Can you recommend a treatment that will cure the trees of this problem?

A. The bluish/gray green growth is a plant called Lichen. It is quite common to find Lichen growing on trees in the Bay Area, near the coast and inland where there is a strong marine influence. The one to three-inch blue/gray, green patches are not a moss but a unique combination of individual alga and fungus species. The alga is a microscopic green plant that makes food for the duo. The fungus is a bluish/gray structure that gives the pair support along with soaking up moisture from the air. Hence, tree lichens are unable to sustain themselves during dry, warm, conditions. Lichens are able to make their own food with moisture and sunlight. They have no need to parasitize a host plant such as Mistletoe, which will slowly kill a tree over a lengthy period. Lichens grow on the tree surface and do not penetrate any plant tissue. Instead, they make use of the trunk or limbs and branches for support. It is often erroneously thought that the present of the lichens indicates a declining tree. Tree Lichen will not cause any plant diseases nor will it kill a tree. The one exception is in wet tropical regions where it can be a problem. It’s more likely the lichen was there long before the tree became ill. Tree Lichens due make a tree more picturesque. They add color, contrast, texture, and natural beauty. It’s sort of like Spanish Moss that hangs off many of the southern trees. On those overcast, days, the blue/gray green coloration is very attractive against the wet tree branches, and stems. A Copper Sulfate fungicide applied during the cool, wet winter months is ineffective. Instead, it’s recommended to be applied after the rainy season has concluded but it will only control the fungus and not eradicate it. Tree Lichen reappears when the right conditions occur.

Q. We have several Cymbidium Orchids on our deck. I would like to divide and repot them, as they’re difficult to water. Why have I been advised not to divide them?

A. Dividing and repotting Cymbidium Orchids affects the blooming cycle. They love to be crowded. The production of flower spikes is maximized when there is little room to grow; hence, there is little incentive to divide the plants. Orchids can be repotted every two to three years, as the orchid soil mix will decompose. They can be repotted in the same container with new soil or in a larger pot; however, a larger container will delay the flowering cycle. You should shake off what is left of the old soil, once the container has been removed and then repots with one of the commercial orchid soil mix widely available. The recommended time to repot or divide Cymbidium Orchids is after flowering.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send quedirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523

Dirt Gardener – Roses and Yellow Flowering Oxalis

December 31, 2011 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I have rose planted in an extremely heavy stone pot that is impractical to move and drains very slowly. The cause of the drainage problem is that the roots are blocking the drainage holes. Is there such a thing as a drainage helper that can be worked into the holes to unplug them?

A. I’m not aware of any commercial product that would unplug the drainage hole of a container. You’re going to have to employ some type of manual solution to solve this problem. One option is to tip the pot on its side, and unblock the drainage holes with a screwdriver or electric drill. Once the holes are clear, upright the pot and with a soil auger drill downward through the root ball within close proximity to the holes and fill the cylinder with rock. This will not be a long-term answer, as the roots will eventually clog things up. Instead, I’d prefer to remove the rose from the container, root prune it and then replant it back in the original pot. I wouldn’t be surprised or concerned if you bare-root the rose in the process of removing it. This might be easier than trying to remove the root ball of a root bound plant. Root pruning is a technique used to grow plants in the same container for an indefinite amount of time. A bonsai is an example of this; however, it’s done on a wide variety plants, such as Citrus, Camellias, and Japanese Maples. Roses are very resistant and will with stand this harsh or radial treatment without any ill effects. To prevent this from reoccurring, you would repeat the root pruning every two to three years.

Q. The yellow flowering Oxalis has invaded my lawn. Can I kill it by spraying the Oxalis with Weed-B-Gon or can I use a “Weed and Feed.”

A. There are many desirable varieties of Oxalis in the Bay Area. They are planted in perennial gardens or in containers because of their unique leaf color and shape; however, two varieties are particularly troublesome. Generally, one is a bulbous type that invades landscape areas and another is found in turf. Weed-B-Gon and “Weed and Feed” turf products are effective and recommended in grass lawns. They’re applied late March through October. All too often, gardeners are frustrated by their lack of success in controlling Oxalis. Besides the actively growing plants, you must control or kill the dormant seeds waiting to germinate. The dormant seeds are controlled with a pre-emergent herbicide during the winter months. Scott’s Super Turf Builder with Halts or similar product kills the Oxalis and Crabgrass seeds while fertilizing the existing turf in one application. In April and May, I’d apply a ‘Weed and Feed’ turf product to the existing Oxalis. All ‘Weed and Feed turf products are not the same when it comes to controlling the actively growing Oxalis. You need to double-check the label to be sure, that Oxalis is listed as a controlled weed.

Dirt Gardener – Clematis & Boston Ferns

December 4, 2011 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My wife bought a pale, lavender Clematis vine last summer and planted it along a south-facing fence. The new growth is on the top three to four inches of a seven-foot long, pencil thin stem that’s burned to boot. Should we cut it down really short and hope for the best next spring?

A. I wouldn’t be overly concerned now, as the foliage probably has turned yellow, as the plant has gone dormant. While dormant, prune off all the growth at the base. This can be done now or you can wait until March. You should select the time that’s most convenient for you. Most Clematis varieties are deciduous, so they drop their leaves and the new growth emerges from the base in the spring. There are two varieties, Armandi and Avalanche, that are evergreen with white flowers. Clematis thrives in a southern exposure as long as its roots are kept cool, moist and insulated from the afternoon sun, June through September. The roots should be shaded during the heat of the day but it’s okay for the foliage to be in the sunny afternoon exposure. A two-inch layer of mulch is the recommended method of protecting the surface roots. It should be spread evenly from the trunk to beyond the drip line. This is especially important when the temperatures are over eighty-five degrees. This may explain the scorching or burnt stems last year. Also, the lack of vegetation will expose the stems to sunburn on those very hot days. A good balance fertilizer provides the nutrients necessary to encourage the growth through out the growing season. I’d make my first application after pruning and follow up with regular repeat applications. You may need to transplant the Clematis if the present location isn’t adequate. This can be also done in March or earlier. Clematis is watered three times a week and more often when the temperatures are over eighty-five degrees. They do not develop large thick stems like other vines so the pencil thin stem(s) is typical. Deciduous plants big advantage over evergreens is that they shed all the mistakes from the pervious year. So, you start fresh with the new year.

Q: I have a nice sized Boston Fern but I found on the back of a single frond these perfect dots the other day. They’re a rusty, brown color and in perfect rows. I’ve removed the frond. What are they and how do I prevent it from reoccurring?

A. Ah, Mother Nature is wonderful. What you were witnessing is the beginnings of the plant’s reproductive cycle. Unlike other plants that produce seed, ferns produce spores. The spores are the reddish brown dots; however, they’re sterile so they will never produce new plants. This is typical on many varieties of ferns. Tissue culture and/or plant divisions are the primary method of reproducing ferns. The sterile spores have an aesthetic value so I wouldn’t remove the fronds. Besides, they’re going to continually form naturally anyway.

Tulip Bulbs

November 6, 2011 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’ve planted a portion of my tulip bulbs already. The rest are still in the refrigerator and will be planted later this month. I hope it’s not too late. Will the staggered planting extend the flowering? In addition, do I need to dig them up after they bloom or can they be left in the ground?

A. November is an ideal months to plant tulip bulbs with the short days and cool night along with other spring flowering bulbs. Unfortunately, the selection is limited. They’re best bought earlier and stored for planting now.
For many bulbs, staggering the planting does extend the blooming season. Gladiolus, and Daffodils are examples; however, this is not the case with tulips. You extend the flowering period by planting the early, mid-season and late flowering varieties. When planting, it’s important to keep your bulbs separated by flowering period. Mixing them together will produce an uneven blooming pattern. I wouldn’t be concerned if some of the bulbs sprout early. It commonly occurs, with above normal temperatures in the late fall and early winter months. The cold temperatures later on will not damage them. Unlike Daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs, tulips take several years to rejuvenate themselves after flowering. They are best replanted each year for the best color show in the spring. They don’t naturalize very well. In addition, in heavy clay soil, naturalized bulbs can rot when the area is over planted with summer color. The Darwin Tulip is the best variety for naturalizing. Tulips as well as any other bulb are removed from the ground and stored. You must wait until the foliage has turned a yellow/brown and easily separates from the ground. If you are going to replant new bulbs next year, you skip this step. Finally, Tulips, and Daffodils are popular flowering plants available February through May. They are forced into bloom for a single season. You’re going to be disappointed if you planted the bulbs expecting another color show this year.

Q. What, if any, vegetable grows in the shade during the winter months? We have a new garden in a new home and have now lost all the wonderful summer sun it had.

A. The exposure, that is sun or shade, is not an issue for growing winter vegetables and color. Right now, I’d plant the leafy varieties such as lettuce, spinach, and swiss chard. Transplants are available today as it’s too late sow seeds. They will not germinate with the cold and wet conditions. Also, available are onions and garlic. In January/February, plant Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Artichokes. You shouldn’t have any problem growing the winter cool season crops in the same location where the summer varieties grew. The indirect light will be sufficient. You should wait until late January or early February to sow radishes, carrots, turnips, beets, and others outdoors in the open ground. It’s to late to sow seeds now, as they will not germinate with the wet and or cool conditions.

Dirt Gardener – Junipers

October 1, 2011 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Why do my established junipers continue to die? The dieback starts slowly with an individual branch and then the entire plant goes.

A. There are two possible causes for junipers to slowly decline and then die. The primary cause has been root rot from excessive water during the summer months and/or soil erosion. Soil erosion is especially a problem with those plants planted on a slope. These plants end up being buried deeper than was originally intended. They die with no apparent pattern, one here and then one over there. It’s most apparent June through October. It could be a branch or section or the entire plant that collapses over night. An early sign of problems is the change in the color of the plant(s), as the normal color dulls. Established junipers are drought tolerant and survive most summers with little summer water assuming we have a typical rainy season. Once every three to four weeks is sufficient once the rainy season concludes. Correcting root rot problems requires patience. Wet winters and summers are not beneficial. Good water management practices and removing the excess soil, are the primary corrective methods, however it doesn’t occur overnight. It can take months before the plants stop dying and for the turn around to begin.

A second possible cause of the dieback is Flatheaded Borers. Flatheaded Borers are some of the most common woodborers in the United States and Canada. There are more than one hundred and fifty species. Until recently, we were only concern with them on deciduous fruit trees. Today, they’re a problem on junipers, arborvitaes, other conifers and cotoneasters. The name is associated with the larva that does the damage. They have a long segmented body with an over size head or prothorax that is flat. With junipers, the damage starts out on an individual branch or branches before spreading throughout the entire plant.

What separates this problem from root rot is that the trail of dead plants is in a predictable pattern. Another distinguishing characteristic is that the damage continues to show up during the early winter, which is not the case with root rot. Flatheaded Borers tunnel extensively in the shallow, cambial tissue. This feeding so near the bark’s surface makes damage more evident, revealed in mushy wood and clumped sawdust-like brown frass. If you carefully scrape off the outer layers of the wound with a knife, you’ll discover the grub concealed within. Larger larvae can also be found deeper within the stem as they prepare to over winter. In the spring, weeping of sap near damage and emergence holes of the adults can be seen on junipers. Flathead Borers is much easier to control than rot root. Bayer and Bonide both have liquid, systemic tree and shrub insect controls. They are conveniently applied to the roots so there is no need to spray. The biggest plus for these systemic insecticides is that one application last twelve months.