Buzz Bertolero

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

November 7, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. When we bought our house, we inherited a dozen older rose bushes. They had been ignored for years and look stringy at best. We are considering pulling them up and starting over. Are the plants worth saving?

A. Roses are very resilient plants. They can be ignored and or abused for years but with nutrients and moisture, the bushes can be revived. With inherited roses, it’s always a personal choice on which ones, if any, to keep. Their fate is usually determined by their color and how disease free they are. Often sentimental reasons are why poorly growing varieties are kept. Personally, I’d replaced them all. I suspect that many of the original varieties have died and have been replaced by the vegetative growth from the rootstock. These are shoots from below the bud union or from the surface roots. The bud union is the large knot located near at the bottom of the plant where the desirable variety was budded on to the rootstock. The majority of the older plants are not growing on their own roots. Starting over allows you to layout the area with a selection of varieties that suits you. Bare root or package roses will be arriving shortly at your favorite garden center so you can replant the area quickly. You could also wait until spring when the container roses are available in bud and bloom.

If you decide to keep them, I’d prune them back severely during the winter to about two feet from the bud union and eliminate the rubbing and crossing branches as well as those from below the bud union. Next, thin out the canes so the space between them is the diameter of your pruning shears or fist. In late February or early March, you start applying Rose Food monthly to encourage the new growth. Roses are watered frequently after the rainy season concludes. This is usually twice a week and then daily with warm temperatures.
Note: The following websites contain photos and descriptions of the new roses for 2011 plus many old favorites.
All-American Rose Selections
Jackson & Perkins
Weeks Roses

Q. Could you tell me what I need to do in order to keep my Poinsettia plants from dying? They seem to wither away so quickly each year.

A. Poinsettia leaves turn yellow, curl and shrivel quickly because of warm temperatures. Poinsettia plants like to be kept in a cool room, preferably under seventy degrees. They need to be kept away from heater vents, operating fireplaces and drafts, especially inside doorways as the sudden change in temperature causes problems. The flower and leaves of the Poinsettia plant collapses when the plant is excessively wet. They like to be kept uniformly moist. Before watering, stick your finger down an inch in the soil. If it feels moist to the touch then skip the watering. After watering, always dump the excess water that collects in the saucer and punch a hole in the decorative foil so the water can drain away.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

October 7, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. How would I go about preserving the seeds produced from my vegetable plants, and use them for next year’s planting?

A. Collecting and saving seed from one year to the next is not all that difficult, however, not all vegetable seeds are created the same. Seed saving makes perfect sense with the open pollinated or heirloom types of vegetables but not with the hybrid varieties. It’s all about genetics. Open-pollinated varieties are self or cross-pollinated by bees and/or the wind. Their seed produce plants that are very similar to the parents. Their seed carries on the qualities of the parents, or “breed true” as the saying goes. This is not the case with hybrid varieties. Humans cross two different specific parents to develop the F1 hybrid. Their offspring produce a new, uniform seed variety with specific characteristics from both parents. For example, a breeder may choose to cross two tomato varieties to make an F1 hybrid that exhibits the early maturity of one parent and a specific disease resistance of the other. The unique characteristics of a hybrid are very uniform but only in the first generation, F1. Seed saved from these varieties have unpredictable characteristics the following year. You’ll need new seed and/or plants each year to duplicate these varieties. The seed packet, catalog description, or plant label should indicate if a variety is an open pollinated or hybrid variety. Other clues include: F1 or F2 appears in parentheses after the name, it is a hybrid. If the letters “cv” are visible, it means the seeds are from a “cultivated variety” and thus are not suitable for seed saving.

Seed is collected from healthy plants with mature fruits that are dried as soon as possible. A seed may not be mature at the same time a fruit reaches its mature color, so be patient. Tomato seeds and others are contained in a gel-like material. You separate the seed from the gel by placing the mixture in a jar of water, and stirring it a few times a day until it ferments. Once it ferments, the seeds should drop to the bottom of the jar. The liquid is poured off and the seed is collected for drying. One method used is to spread the seeds out on paper towels, which are placed in a warm, dry and well-ventilated location for about a week. After the seed is dried, you remove any pulp that may remain on the seed before packaging the different varieties in envelopes with a label. The envelopes are stored in an airtight glass jar, such as a pickle or mayonnaise jar with a packet of silica gel. The silica gel removes any moisture that develops. The rule of thumb for storing seed from one season to another is to keep the seed cool and dry. Ideally, they are stored in a refrigerator; otherwise, the garage will do. You sow the seed in flats next February for planting into the open ground in April and May.

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

September 3, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. What is the rule of thumb for planting bulbs? I never seem to find my bulb chart when I need it. In addition, when is the latest that spring flowering bulbs can be planted?

A. The planting season for spring flowering bulbs begins around mid October when the warm fall temperatures have concluded. It continues through the end of the year: although, most of the bulbs planted in the ground are done by Thanksgiving. Spring bulbs are best purchased early as the selection is limited by the end of October. Freesias, Anemones and Rannuculus can be planted into February. Tulips and Daffodils planted after the beginning of the year produce flowers on short stems. Bulbs can be stored in a cool location until the optimum planting time. Because they sweat, store them in paper or mess bags. If they’re in plastic, release the moisture by opening the tops of the bag(s). The general rule of thumb for the planting depth is three times the vertical height of the bulb itself. The planting area should be generously amended with organic matter such as homemade compost or soil conditioner. The water needs to drain away after each winter storm; otherwise, they will rot. You also need to add a teaspoon or tablespoon of Bulb Food under each bulb. The amount depends on the size of the bulb. A second application of fertilizer is made after blooming.

Planting bulbs in containers is very popular today. I’d guess that more bulbs are planted in pots than in the ground. Container bulbs are planted in any of the many commercial potting soils or planting mixes available at your favorite garden center. If you are reusing a clay or terra cotta pot, you should sterilize it first to eliminate any of the over-wintering fungus. This is easily done by washing the containers in a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water. Since the household bleach is an irritant, it’s recommended that you wear gloves. The pots are then air dried at least over night before planting. Ideally, you should pick a container that will allow the bulbs the proper room for the root development. Many times, they end up at depths that do not meet the planting depth guidelines and that is okay. This is especially true if you’re piggybacking or layering different types of bulbs in the same container. The commercial produced spring flowering bulbs have the nose of the bulbs at the soil surface. The planting depth in containers is all over chart so I’d pick a depth that seems reasonable. You don’t have to wait until spring to enjoy these containers. By adding pansies, violas, primulas or any of the other seasonal color, they can be placed on the deck, patio or balcony today.

Note: For information on all types of spring and summer flower bulbs, www.bulbs.com is an ideal reference source. The bulb guides are very good on the specific bulbs.

In addition, the following website has bulb-planting chart for future reference
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/flowers/bulbs/planting-charts-for-spring-flowering-bulbs/

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

August 5, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. We have had the hill in the backyard weed-whacked and the debris removed. Now the hillside is brown but it still has the roots of the cut weeds. I’d like to place a weed blocking fabric and then plant a ground cover. Do you treat the ground with a weed killer before laying the fabric?

A. The answer is not that simple. I think you’re caught between a rock and a hard spot. The weeds should have been sprayed before you weed whacked them. In addition, it would have been helpful to know if the unwanted vegetation was annual grasses and broadleaf weeds or perennial plants. Here are my concerns. The landscape fabric is a short-term answer and not a long tern solution. Deep-rooted perennial plants would penetrate the fabric in time. The fabric would suffocate the dormant weed seed when covered with a two-inch layer of mulch. As the mulch, decomposes the weeds seeds that have blown in after the installation would germinate with the winter rains or irrigation. Next, a non-selective herbicide, like Round Up sprayed on the bare ground would not kill the remaining plant roots. These products require plants to be leafed out and actively growing. When the area is planted, controlling the unwanted vegetation becomes more challenging with a non-selective herbicide, as the spray will harm the desirable plants. A pre-emergent herbicide kills only the plant seeds and not any plant with an established root system. In addition, they require moisture to establish the chemical barrier that kills the dormant weed seeds. If the hillside isn’t irrigated the herbicide may be marginally effective later on, when the rainy season begins. Here is the sequence of events I would follow to solve the problem. To begin with, I do nothing, water the hillside to encourage the new growth, treat the actively growing vegetation with Round Up, select and plant the ground cover, mulch the area without installing any landscape fabric, and apply a pre-emergent herbicide over the mulch and plants. A reasonable time frame to accomplish this is twelve weeks. You might contact the nursery profession al at your favorite garden center for a second opinion.

Q. My parents have lost the name to a red rose bush they planted back in the eighties or early nineties. How might I find out its name?

A. There has been countless number of red roses introduced over the past twenty-five years. Therefore, you’ll need some photos of the flowers to help with the identification. You could narrow the choices down if they could remember if it were a Jackson and Perkins or Weeks variety. Next, I’d go to the Internet and google “Bay Area Rose Societies” to locate the one nearest to you. I’d then email them several photos of your rose and see if they can ID it. Another option would be a nursery or garden center that specializes in roses. Good luck.

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

June 3, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. I’ve no luck growing dwarf citrus. It didn’t matter if they were planted in containers or in the ground. They are in poor health with lots of dried up leaves and branches. This is the second group of plants. I find no pests, they get lots of sun and I water them maybe once a week. What am I doing wrong?

A. Dwarf Citrus shouldn’t be that difficult to grow when given the proper amount of water and fertilizer. Citrus are not drought tolerant plants. They like moisture. Your “maybe once a week.” watering pattern needs to be more consistent. Irregular watering is the major cause of the dried up leaves and branches. Also, citrus in containers are watered differently than those in the ground. In containers, citrus is watered daily when the temperature is over eighty degrees. For those plants that have been in the same container for more than two years I’d lower the temperature to seventy-five degrees. With established plants, there is less soil and more roots in the container. Beside the heat from the sun, water loss or evaporation of a plant is increased with our typical afternoon winds. This is true of all container plants just not citrus. The container needs to be filled to the brim when you water so there is a sufficient amount of moisture to wet the entire root ball. Also, raise the bottom of the container off the ground so the water flows out the bottom. It’s not necessary to water plants that are in the ground this frequently as once or twice a week is adequate depending on the temperature. However, a watering basin around every plant is a must. The basin should be six to eight inches high and extends from the trunk to just beyond the drip line. Again, you fill the basin to the brim every time you water. When the temperature is over 95 degrees, you would make an additional application. Citrus is fertilized monthly with Citrus Food, year round. After the rainy season has concluded, you always water before and after every application of fertilizer. You will see a dramatic improvement in foliage color along with a flush of new growth in the next six to eight weeks.

Q. I’m curious as to why the leaves/fronds of large palm trees are tied up when they are being transported? Also, how long are they kept tied?
A. There are two reasons for this typical method of transporting palms. The horticultural reason is to protect the critical terminal bud from windburn and dehydration. The terminal bud is where the new fronds or growth originates. If this area is damage the mortality rate is huge.

The second reason is to narrow the canopy so they can be transported on roads, highways and freeways without any special precautions. They are left tied up for several weeks to many months depending on the time of the year, location and variety even after planting.

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

May 7, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q: I’m having a problem with these Rolly Polly bugs getting into my strawberries when they’re almost ripe. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep those darned bugs off of my berries?

A: The Rolly Polly bugs, actually, are Sowbugs. They’re a gray color, oval in shape and curl up when disturbed. Also, they’re not actually an insect but a soil-dwelling crustacean that is closely related to the crayfish. They feed at night and live under logs, wood chips and other decaying organic matter where it’s damp, dark and moist. Sowbugs are considered beneficial, as they break down organic matter into nutrients, which is used by plants. However, they’re a problem with strawberries and any other crop that lies on the ground, like pumpkins, and melons. Sowbugs enter at the point where the berry makes contact with the soil. The lack of or poor air circulation and moisture creates a location were decay or rotting begins. This occurs quickly compared to other crops because strawberries have no waxy coating on their outer layer. This decaying organic matter is very attractive to the Sowbugs and they are easily controlled without any pesticides. The berry clusters are raised up off the ground with a drip irrigation clip. Acoated Dixie Cup placed under the mature berries is another way to prevent Sowbugs. Plastic is often mentioned with growing strawberries, however in many home gardens this creates watering problems. If I were to use plastic, I’d use black plastic over clear as it retains more heat, which will deter the Sowbugs. For cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, and all melons,
a layer of straw is a simple and effective solution.

Q: If we were to plant a lemon or lime in a twenty-inch wide glazed ceramic pot would it eventually break the pot or would it die from being root bound?

A: Given those two choices, your plant would strangle itself from being root bound before it cracked the ceramic container. A plant is more likely to crack a clay pot rather than a ceramic container as moisture evaporates through the porous sides. And, it takes longer for plastic than clay to break down because of UV issues. Water stress is the primary reason why Citrus and other ornamentals die in containers rather than from being root bound. The volume of soil is lost out the drainage hole and from the activity of the microorganisms while the root ball increases in size to support the vegetative growth and moisture retention is severely reduced. These plants suffer from water stress when the days are long, windy and with warm temperatures. Hence it is recommended to water containers daily when the temperatures are above seventy-five degrees. Also, you need to remove the saucer so the water flows free out the bottom and to avoid a mosquito breeding area. Today, mosquitoes are a serious health hazard as they’re the primary carrier of West Nile Virus.

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

April 6, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. I’m not going to be able to plant my tomatoes this year until late May early June. What varieties are best for planting at this time or is it too late to plant? I’d especially like the slicing varieties like Beefsteak.

A. May is an ideal time to plant tomatoes and many other summer vegetables like peppers, eggplants and melons. By early June, the selection of varieties is much smaller than in the early May. You’ll have to be open to planting varieties you normally wouldn’t consider. If available, I’d plant Champion and Celebrity. Also there are many delicious heirloom varieties like Brandywine, Watermelon Beefsteak, Abraham Lincoln or Yellow Stuffer.

For many of you, your tomato plants have been in the ground for many weeks. Personally, I prefer to wait until the rainy season has concluded and the daytime temperatures are in the mid-seventies to low eighties. There have been years when the weather in March has been beautiful but it turns cool in April. This is not beneficial for tomatoes. Also, there is this myth that the earlier they’re planted the sooner they start producing. This is bogus. Early planted tomatoes can develop nice bushy plants. They may even be flowering in the next month but in most cases the flowers fall off without any tomatoes developing. Tomatoes require warm nights to set fruit. The critical nighttime temperature for fruit set is fifty-five degrees and above with open flowers. Because of our wide variety of microclimates, they will be exceptions.

Cherry Tomatoes can set fruit earlier than the medium to large varieties. Hence, I wait and plant later to avoid the disappointment of not having my expectation reached. I’ll probably do my soil preparation in the next two weeks and then plant in early May. When selecting my plants, I like to choose the tallest and many cases the straggliest plants available because I plant very deep. I’ll bury the plants so only the top two sets of leaves are above the ground and remove all the foliage below that point. Roots do developed on the buried stems. With the main portion of the roots well insulated, I avoid the irregular watering problems. Tomatoes like an even amount of moisture. After the initial watering, I’ll not water again until the top leaves start to wilt. I do keep track of the number of days for wilting to occur and the average temperatures. The process is repeated again and then I average the information. This establishes the frequency of my watering schedule for the season. Buzz’s tomatoes are watered a day or two before they wilt when the temperatures is between ‘A’ and ‘B’. I’ll then vary the watering frequency weekly, more or less depending on the seven-day forecast. You can find this information on the Internet, in the newspaper or with any of the local newscast. And finally, the late-planted tomatoes may not be as large as those planted earlier ones but they certainly produce just as soon.

The Dirt Gardener: Thanks for Asking

March 4, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

THANKS FOR ASKING
Q. Last year, I discovered a beehive in my juniper bushes. I ended up with four stings to the head. In January, I hosed it down with a high-pressure nozzle. I think I destroyed the hive or maybe it just got too cold, as I saw no evidence of any activity. What can I do to make sure they reestablish the hive?

A. Ouch, it hurts just thinking about it! Honey Bees, Hornets, and Wasps along with Bumble Bees are inactive during cool, damp, wet weather but if disturbed, they will fly around. Since there is no activity, this is more likely an abandon Yellow Jacket nest. In late November, Yellow Jacket hives become inactive as the workers and male bees die after mating with the queens. The queen, abandons the hive and hibernates for the winter in the bark of trees and/or logs. In the spring, the queens emerge and immediately begin looking for a new location for a nest. There is no chance of a queen reoccupying an old site. The new nests are usually in an above ground location; however, Yellow Jackets can establish hives in abandon gopher or other rodent holes. The above ground nests are close to structures, like under the eves of a house or in your case junipers or other ornamental shrubs. The population of a hive starts slowly, reaching a peak in September/October. Yellow Jackets rarely are a problem at Memorial Day. By the fall, they can be a big nuisance and are easily agitated as mating season approaches. Now is the time of the year to set out your Yellow Jackets traps to capture the queen(s) while she is searching for a new home. Last years trap(s) are reusable but I would wash them out first with warm soapy water before adding the new attractant, which is a must. This should prevent your yard from hosting any hives this year.

Q. I have a perplexing problem growing pole beans. The plants start to grow but something eats them off at the ground when they reach a height of one to two inches. I planted three times last year and each time the same thing occurred. What is the problem and how do I stop it?

A. It certainly sounds like an Earwig or pincher bug problems. Earwigs are nocturnal so they sleep during the day and eat when it gets dark. Ideally, you should bait the area before the beans germinate. Sluggo Plus is an organic bait for snails, slugs and earwigs and is reapplied every three weeks until the seedlings mature. It’s spread evenly throughout the area. Also, you should bait any damp, dark, areas around the garden, as this is where earwigs hide out during the day. One way to tell if you have an Earwig problem is to roll newspaper into a tube, moisten the inside and set the tubes out in the evening. The Earwigs will use the paper tubes as a hiding place when the sun comes up.

The Dirt Gardener – Thanks for Asking

February 1, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. I received a Christmas Cactus plant as a gift but I do not know how to care for it. Could you help me out with some information about watering, fertilizing, etc.?

A. Christmas Cactus, are very easy to grow. Both Thanksgiving and Christmas Cactus are the same variety, Schlumbergia truncata. Over the years, they have taken on different common names based on the holiday period they’re available. Also, there is a spring blooming variety commonly called Easter Cactus that is a different variety. They all do best indoors in an area that gets lots of indirect light or outdoors in a protected location. I’d feed them monthly with a mild houseplant fertilizer from February thru August. Christmas Cactus is easily rooted from cuttings by snapping off a section(s) at the joint and placing them in a small container of moist potting soil. The potting soil should drain quickly to prevent rotting from being over watered. They set their buds in the late fall as the days get shorter and cooler. Many times they will set buds without any additional help. If they don’t, you would then need to move them to the coolest room you have and give them thirty days of twelve to fourteen hours of darkness. The easiest way to do this is to cover the plants at dinnertime with a sealed box and uncover them at breakfast. This is called the short day treatment. Also, you should reduce the watering frequency. The water stress aids in the setting of buds. Once the buds are visible you return to the normal schedule. For a Thanksgiving bloom, cover them in October and in November for flowers at Christmas.

Q. I have a fairly new Meyer Lemon bush that is fruiting but some of the lemons are resting on the ground. Is this a bad thing? Should it be pruned now with my other fruit trees? Also, what should I be doing about the yellow leaves?

A. While deciduous fruit trees are pruned during the winter months, citrus, that is oranges, lemons, limes etc., are not. The suggested time is after the danger of frost has past which is around St. Patrick’s Day in most areas.

Pruning Myer Lemon’s can present a quandary as there never seems to be a rest period with flowers and fruit present year-round. By doing nothing, the plant then gets very large and over grown. Although Meyer Lemon is listed as a dwarf plant, it can get to be ten feet high and six feet wide. The spring pruning removes all the vegetation damaged by the cold along with any dead wood. You then trim for shape and containment the balance of the year. The lower branches are removed to lift the canopy, as you don’t want fruit resting on the ground. Yellow leaves are common at this time of the year because of the cold temperatures. They will green up when you resume you monthly feeding of Citrus Food in March.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523.

The Dirt Gardener – Thanks for Asking

January 8, 2010 by Buzz Bertolero

Q. We have a sorely neglected nectarine tree. The limbs are very long and bare except on the ends where there are clusters of small branches. I’ve already removed many of the water sprouts but I’m unsure on how much to cut these branches back? We would like to salvage the tree if possible.

As. With neglected deciduous fruit trees, it’s always a judgment call if they’re salvageable or not. The overall health of the tree is critical to your final decision. Trees under stress have dead, twisted, or gnarly branches with sections of the canopy that doesn’t break dormancy in the spring. You’ll also find that the bark is peeling and there are numerous sap globules present along the trunk and main branches. I’d replace all the trees with these characteristics; however, your tree sounds like it’s in good condition. Peaches and Nectarine produce fruit only on the second year wood. Once the scaffolding and other supporting branches have been established, you should remove fifty percent of the growth each year. I’d eliminate all the dead wood, the rubbing and crossing branches, and then cut the long branches in half or more to open up the center of the tree and shape the canopy. With neglected fruit trees, you sacrifice fruit production in order to get the trees back in shape. All deciduous fruit trees are fed with16-16 16 after pruning to encourage the new growth and again in May/June. I’d apply a half-pound of fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter measured two feet off the ground. The fertilizer is evenly spread around the drip line, not piled at the base of the tree. Also, don’t be afraid to do some selective pruning during the summer months. And finally, nectarines don’t require frequent watering. You should have a six-inch high water basin that extends from the trunk to the drip line. After the rainy season concludes, I’d fill this basin up several times once every two to three weeks. Excessive summer watering is a primary reason for the decline of nectarine, cherry, plum, peach and apricot trees.

Q. A few years back I planted some Vinca Major on my hillside. During the summer, I had it removed and re-landscaped the area. It’s now starting to reappear. I know if I do not do something it will invade all the new plants and I am back to square one. Any advice you can give me on killing the roots without hurting my new planting.

A. Unfortunately, you’re at square one, minus one. There are no selective herbicides that will kill the Vinca but not harm the desirable plants. So you will have to be very careful around the plants with whatever herbicide you use. This is a task that will begin in earnest come March. I’d probably use Round Up and protect the new plants with a movable cardboard plant shield. Round Up is absorbed by the leaves and is ineffective when sprayed on bare ground.

You will be making many repeat applications, as it is a war of attrition.