Buzz Bertolero

Tree Roses, Dwarf Lemons, Deodora Cedar, & Mini Roses

December 21, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. The bottom branches of my tree roses are extending out into the walkway. I’d like to prune them back so they don’t interfere with the entrance to the house. How far back can I prune them without damaging the tree rose?

A. Tree roses can be pruned back aggressively to keep them in bounds, just like a bush rose. Before pruning, locate the point where the rose is budded to its roots. This is called the bud union. With tree roses, you could have one or two bud unions. One is close to the ground while the other is three to four feet off the ground. The desired rose variety grows above this point. Any growth below the bud union should be removed and is referred to as sucker growth. How much you cut the rose back is a judgment call on your part. It can be twelve inches to twelve feet depending on the situation. I’d cut it back to leaf bud that is pointing away from the walkway. If you strip away last year’s leaves, you should find it on stems or rose canes. In the spring and summer after flowering, you can keep the walkway accessible by pruning back these canes heavier than others.

Q. The leaves on my dwarf lemon are a yellowish color, wrinkled, and some are torn. I’ve looked online as well as in some gardening books and don’t find an answer. How do I green up the leaves and what do I spray for the curly leaf diseases?

A. It’s common for lemon leaves to curl, turn yellow and sometimes even defoliate with the winter from the cold temperatures. So, you do not have any type of leaf curl disease that requires treatment. Also, the ripped and torn leaves are not a big problem. Also, the leaves can take a battering with strong winds during major storms. You just remove the severely torn ones before the flush of spring growth in February or March. The green leaf color returns when the days get longer and warmer. I’d encourage the new growth along with the green leaf color, lemons by feeding them with Citrus Food monthly, starting in February/March through October.

Q. I planted a Deodora Cedar in my front yard, and its already about twelve feet tall. I do not want it to grow huge, maybe around twenty feet tall. How would I go about doing this? Could I cut off the top to keep it under control?

A. With a healthy tree, you really can’t stop it from growing. When it gets too large, you’ll have to either live with it or replace it. I don’t mean to be critical, but why in the world would you plant a tree that wants to grow to forty to sixty feet tall (or more) and expect to maintain it at half that height? 98Topping a tree to reduce or restrict its size is never a good solution. Not only does it destroy the natural and graceful growth habit, but it very often shortens the lifespan, allowing the entry of various disease pathogens and insect pests. It is far better to select a tree or shrub that is expected to grow to the height/spread desired without excessive pruning or topping to keep size in check.

Q. Last summer, I purchased several miniature roses and planted them in large pots. The bushes have done very well. I’m wondering if they need to be pruned?

A. Yes, miniature roses do need pruning but not like the Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, and Floribunda varieties. Miniature roses are pruned only to keep their shape. It is more like a shearing than pruning individual stems. Depending on the size of the bush, you would remove an inch to six inches of growth. The best time of the year to do so is around Presidents Day weekend, the third weekend of February. This is just before the spring flush of growth develops. Also, after each cycle of blooms, is another excellent time to prune miniature roses, so they keep their shape. You also remove any, and all dead wood should be removed. Also, you should strip off any remaining foliage, clean up the debris that is at the base of each plant and then spray them once with a Copper fungicide to kill the overwintering fungal spores. In March, you apply liquid fertilizer, insecticide, and disease control products. Both Bayer and Bonide have products that do all three tasks.

Raspberries, Mistletoe & Figs

November 30, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My raspberries are not producing any berries. They get lots of stems and leaves but no fruit. They get afternoon sun, plenty of water, and I feed them in the spring. Each October, I prune them back to about six inches off the ground. So, what am I doing wrong?

A. The simple answer is, you’re pruning them wrong. Raspberries plants produce berries on the second-year growth or canes. Once these canes produce, they never produce again, and they’re cut off usually at the ground. The raspberries should be growing on some type of trellis structure but not a fence as they intrude into the neighboring property. The new growth develops at the bottom or base of the plant(s). After you harvest the berries, the old fruiting canes are removed. The new growth or canes replaces them on the trellis. Now, I’m assuming the original plants came from cuttings and not seeds. Raspberries are unpredictable from started from seed. A twist on this is that of everbearing raspberries. Everbearing raspberries (Rubus Idaeus) produce fruit in the spring and again in fall. Unlike summer-bearing varieties, which may have purple or black fruit, most everbearing varieties produce red berries. What you should do now is nothing. This year’s canes will fruit next year, and you prune off then. If you already have pruned, then you’ll need to wait two growing seasons for berries.

Q. When my backyard shade trees lose their leaves, I’ve noticed green patches on the branches near the top. I’ve been told that it’s Mistletoe, and it is harmful. How do I go about getting rid of it?

A. Yes, Mistletoe is harmful to trees; however, the decline occurs slowly. Mistletoe is a parasitic plant that lives off other plants or host to survive. For many years, Mistletoe was limited to the foothills around the Central Valley, but today it is commonly found throughout the Bay Area growing in the canopies of mature, shade trees. Birds are the primary means of spreading Mistletoe as they feed on the clusters. The white Mistletoe berries contain many sticky seeds. The birds carry the seeds from tree to tree on their feet, beaks, and in their droppings, as the seeds aren’t digestible. It’s found growing high in the tree where the birds nest or perched. There are two methods of controlling this problem. They’re both a bit problematical because Mistletoe is hard to get to because they’re so high off the ground. The obvious solution is to prune it out. You’ll need to remove a portion of the branch where it’s growing; otherwise, it grows back from the roots that are still attached. You’ll need a long ladder. Also, Mistletoe may reestablish itself depending on the bird activity, so you’ll have to repeat the process. The second method is to spray the clusters with Florel Fruit Eliminator. Florel is the only product registered for controlling Mistletoe. Florel is a plant growth regulator, so it has no insecticidal, fungicidal, or herbicidal properties. It’s best applied in November or February through April when the temperatures are above sixty degrees. The entire tree doesn’t need to be sprayed, just saturate the Mistletoe clusters. In five to seven days, the Mistletoe should begin to shed its leaves and branches. A second application is only necessary if Mistletoe is still present after three weeks. After spraying the tree, hose off any of the spray residue on the plants that are under the trees. You’ll need a sprayer that will reach the growth. The Mistletoe will grow back, so repeat applications are recommended every three to four years.

Q. We planted a small fig tree from a nursery several years ago. It had three figs about three years ago and has since stopped. It’s tall and sparse. A gardener told me to top it so it would fill out more and start producing, but that didn’t work. What would you suggest to make it fruit again?

A. Typically, Figs fail to fruit because they’re too young or overfed. But, I don’t believe that’s the reason in your case. Instead, I’d look at water stress as the cause. Water stress could be too much or not enough or a little of both during the growing season. Water stress will send the tree into a survival mode, and the tree will simply not have the energy needed to invest in making fruit. Poorly draining soil and frequent watering will prevent the fruit from forming. I’d review your watering pattern. After the rainy season ends, I put a good size watering basin around the tree. It should be six inches tall and extend from the trunk to beyond the drip line. I’d fill it up several times a week with average temperatures and more often when it’s warmer. I’d also feed it once in the spring with an organic, fruit, and shade tree fertilizer.

Camellias, Pears & Bulbs

October 11, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My Sasanqua Camellias are developing buds. But, I’ve noticed some strange looking buds. They’re green and pear shape instead of long an elliptical. Are they going to flower like the rest?

A. These bud-like structures will not bloom as that has already occurred last year. What you are seeing is the seed pod from the previous year’s flowers. Most of the flowers will fall off after blooming; however, some remain and form seed pods. Hybridizers and some adventurous gardeners will harvest the seed and propagate new plants. They’re looking for a seedling(s) that are different from the parents and have commercial value. To harvest the seed, you’d wait until the seed pods crack open, but before the seeds fall out. Sasanqua seed pods usually contain three to five seeds, although sometimes just one seed develops. The seeds are placed in a paper bag or container, and you sow them in the spring. Once they have germinated, I transplant them into individual 4-inch pots and then gallon cans in about a year. You’ll need to be patient as it takes five to seven years for the seedling to bloom. Hence, most gardeners don’t bother and pick them off and discard them.

Note: Sasanqua Camellias bloom mid-November through February, depending on the variety. They have single and semi-double flowers with a burst of bright, golden yellow stamens in the center. The blooms are not as large and showy as spring blooming Camellias japonica. They like a semi-shade location; however, they’ll grow in full sun. You’ll need to insulate the roots from the sun with a three-inch layer of mulch and watered frequently.

Q. We’re fortunate to have three fruiting Asian Pears. One of our trees had a few branches that were either dead or dying. The other two were okay. We cut off the dread branches in 2017 and 2018. This year, to our disappointment, all our Asian Pears showed signs of dying branches. How do we get our trees healthy again!

A. The die back in the Asian Pears is called Fireblight. It’s a bacterial disease that enters through the blossoms and travels downward. You need to prune out the deadwood but a foot below the point where the brown stops. Also, disinfect your pruning equipment with Lysol or rubbing alcohol after every cut to prevent spreading the disease. There is a spray available to control the Fireblight, but it’s impartial for a homeowner to use; hence, pruning after the fact is the solution.

Q. When is the best time to plant bulbs, and is it okay to plant bulbs in containers/planters instead of the ground? I’m new to all of this.

A. It’s perfectly okay to plant bulbs in containers of all sizes and shapes. While others may disagree, I believe that the planting season is from the end of October through the end of the year. This is when the ground has started to cool off, as days are getting shorter and the night’s cooler. It is suggested to purchase your bulbs early from mid-September through October for the best selection. It would be best if you also kept in mind that tulips and hyacinths need to be chilled for six weeks before planting, while daffodils don’t. A refrigerator is sufficient. It’s necessary to chill them for blooms next year. In the Bay Area, Mother Nature doesn’t provide enough cold like in other areas. A picnic cooler maybe a better answer if you, as most of the fruits and vegetables stored in a fridge, give off ethylene gas while ripening, especially apples, pears, tomatoes, and avocados. This gas will damage the dormant flowers. The rest of the bulbs can be stored in the garage or any other cool and dry location until you are ready to plant. The planting depth will vary with the container. With shallow dish type containers, the nose or top of the bulbs is right as the soil surface while in deeper containers, you can double or triple deck different types of bulbs in one container depending on the size. Also, they don’t have to be planted all in one day some now others six weeks from now. It is also suggested to add Bulb Food at the planning time. Depending on the size of the bulb, add a teaspoon or tablespoon of Bulb Food under each one. It is acceptable to add seasonal color such as pansies, violas primula, and others to the deep containers. I prefer to do this so I can enjoy the containers right away.

Pumpkins, Birch, Sod & Berries

September 16, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Birds have been planting blackberries vines throughout are on my back yard. The plants are coming up through the Escallonias and are a pain to get too. I thought I had eradicated the plants last year, but they came back more vigorously this year. After hearing different advice from various “helpful” friends, I need to know what are the most effective methods of getting rid of these plants for good.

A. I’m not sure what specific advice you have received; hence, I can’t give any pros and cons on the suggestions. So, I’m going to address the problem from an overall perspective. First off, there are no quick or “one and done” answer(s) to this problem. Your options of eradicating and undesirable plants growing within desirable plants is minimal. There is no chance of eradicating the issue this year as the growing season is nearing an end. There is an excellent chance you’ll be dealing with this problem next year at this time. It’s a war of attrition. Blackberries spread rapidly by above and below ground rhizomes; hence, they’re difficult to control. I’d manually remove any shoots near the crown of the Ceanothus or base of the Ceanothus or primary surface roots. For the rest, I’d repeatedly spot treat the new shoots with the herbicide, Brush Killer, being careful not to spray the Ceanothus. You have to be very persistent in resolving this issue.

Q. How would I go about comparing the price of sod? It is concussing trying to decide between the square feet and roll prices. I’m looking to install a small area of sod, about 40 square feet.

A. The variable you need to compare the two is the size of the roll. There is no industry standard, so vary depending on the grower. Thus, a $4.98 roll of sod that’s four feet long by two feet wide is 8 square feet or 62.2 cents per square feet. Using the same example, sod at .50 a square feet would sell for $4.00 per roll.

Q. Last year I chopped down a birch tree that was infested with termites. The tree stump was ground down, but I noticed that there are still roots in the ground, and the ground is sinking. Will the roots grow back? A home improvement center recommended a chemical that kills roots in pipes. It says it will kill new root growth. Besides, should I fill in the potholes with sand and rock? The uneven surface makes it difficult to mow the lawn.

A. Birch trees are not known to send up sucker so I wouldn’t be concerned. It’s a bad idea to apply a liquid ‘root killer’ to the open ground. They’re very caustic chemicals made for enclosed cylinders where water can wash them away. Besides, it’s a moot point, as the old roots are not going to rejuvenate themselves. They’ll continue to decompose over time. Filling in the holes is pretty straightforward; however, I wouldn’t use sand. Sand in time will filter through the soil layers creating another depression. You could use the rock as filler in the larger holes and then finish off with, potting soil, planting mix, or homemade compost. You should first moisten the material and then tamp it down several times. You want a substantial base. Also, I’d use a two by four to grade the high and low spots to help with unevenness. Once the area has been leveled and graded, you can then reseed the bare spot with Scott’s E-Z Seed. Scott’s EZ seed is a combination of seed, fertilizer, and absorbent growing material. Reseeding has never been this easy.

Q. I have a pumpkin plant volunteer that is growing out of my compost bin. I’m not sure what variety, either last-years jack-o-lantern or maybe an Asian type, it is green a striped now and just tennis ball sized. Can you guess what I might be growing?

A. The offsprings from hybrid plants are very unpredictable in the next generation. Pumpkins will cross-pollinate with squash and cucumber plants, so the gene pool is very mixed in the set of seedlings. The new plants are a combination of all of these characteristics. I don’t have a clue as too how they’ll turn out. You’re going to have to wait to see what you have. You can say now that it will be stripped and not a solid color. You may not be pleasantly surprised, but you will not be disappointed.

Bougainvilleas, Roses & Crabgrass

August 10, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My roses are doing reasonably well, but some of the stems are very long and leggy. I prefer that the plants be bushier. Am I pruning them wrong?

A. I wouldn’t say you’re pruning them wrong. You need to prune the bushes a bit more aggressively after each flush of flowers. But first, you need to identify whether or not the long canes are part of the desired variety or rogue or sucker growth. Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, and Floribunda varieties are budded onto a second variety called the rootstock. It’s typical for roses to produce rogue or sucker growth. These are shoots that develop below the bud union or off the surface roots. The bud union is the knot-like structure found at the base of the bush. These are vigorous shoots that grow rapidly into long, leggy branches. Another characteristic of this growth is that they produce small, cherry red flowers. This growth is eliminated while the other shoots are pruned back.

Many rose pruning books will instruct you to prune back to the second set of five leaves. I tend to ignore this point and prune to shape the bushes, especially the sides, so the plants don’t merge into one another. We do tend to plant our roses a bit to close too one another. The top is then lowered to control and prevent them from growing too tall. This should be a standard practice throughout the growing season when you remove the spent flowers. Also, you want to make your cut where there is an outside bud. All the buds are located in the area where the leaf blade attaches to the stem. At this time of the year, don’t want to leave the plant void of leaves, as the green stems will burn in the afternoon sun.

It would be best if you continued to feed your plants with Dr. Earth Rose Food or similar fertilizer right through the fall. They should be watered the day before fertilizing and immediately afterward to prevent fertilizer burn. It’s not too late to mulch your plants to conserve moisture, as there are plenty more warm days ahead. A two-inch layer of mulch should be spread a foot beyond the drip line of each plant. This extra attention will reward you with two or more flushes for flowers between now and the New Year.

Q. My backyard lawn has patches of Crabgrass. Which ‘Weed and Feed’ should I be using to control it? I haven’t been successful with the ones I’ve tried.

A. Bayer Advanced ‘All in One Weed and Feed’ is a granular product that fertilizes the lawn, kills broadleaf weeds along with Crabgrass and other undesirable grasses. This is the first year it has been available. ‘All in One Weed and Feed’ uses the same active ingredient that you would find the liquid Crabgrass control. The liquid Crabgrass killer comes in a ‘Ready to Spray’ container that you attached to your hose. There are several brands available. So far, I’ve found these products to be disappointing in controlling the actively growing Crabgrass. They’re very slow-acting, taking weeks for the results to show up. Crabgrass goes dormant in the winter and reappears around the 4th Of July. It thrives until November when it goes to seed and dies out. The best most effective method of controlling Crabgrass is to kill the dormant seeds. Pre-emergent Crabgrass turf products are applied in January and February. That being said, I’m going to try ‘All In One Weed and Feed’ to see if it’s more effective than the liquid.

Q. I need to move an established Bougainvillea so we can enlarge our family room. Can it be transplanted at this time of the year? I really would like it to survive.

A. Bougainvilleas are successfully transplanted from containers. Unfortunately, this is not always the case with established plants. They have a very fine root system that doesn’t knit tightly to form a solid rootball. When they’re moved, the root ball breaks apart, reducing the survival rate. This is not an ideal time to move it with the warm days and nights. You’d be better off if you waited until October, but that may not be an option. So, here is how I’d go about moving it now. I’d look to do this during the early morning or evening, avoiding the heat of the day. The first thing to do is prune the canopy back severely. This reduces the demand on the roots.

I’d first dig around the plant to form the root ball and support it by lining it with cardboard secured with ties. I’d use several bungee cord ties available at any home improvement store and secure it tightly. Next carefully, tip the root ball over cutting the roots as you go. The rootball is then picked up or slid it carefully to a new location and upright in the new hole. As the backfill is added, you remove the ties but not the cardboard. It will decompose naturally. You would cut off any cardboard that extends above the soil. Proper planting techniques are employed by amending the backfill with soil amendments and be sure not to bury the root ball to seep. Finally, please take a few digital pictures of it for the refrigerator before you start. In this way, you avoid the last memory of your favorite plant, collapsing, turning brown, and then dying.

Tomatoes & Plastic Pots

July 10, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I enjoy gardening in medium to large size plastic pots; however, I’m concerned about the roots when the temperatures get hot. Will the heat permeate through the plastic pots and burn the roots? Other than buying clay pots, what else can I do?

A. Yes, this is a legitimate concern. It’s a more significant issue for those plants growing in the same container for several growing seasons than with new plantings. Over time, roots reach the sides and fill the container while the insulating soil layer disappears. Plastic containers have a thin wall and the heat transfers directly through it when hit by the sun, damaging any of the roots next to the wall. I’d be concerned with established Japanese Maples, Camellias, Citrus, Roses, and other ornamentals. Containers with established plants are difficult to keep moist during hot, dry weather. There is little soil to hold moisture and lots of roots so water stress occurs quickly. The late afternoon sun is the most critical as this is when the temperatures are peaking. The heat factor is influenced by the color of the container. White or other bright colors will reflect heat while earth tones and dark colors absorb the heat. When the temperatures are over seventy-five degrees, water often. Be sure to fill the containers the brim and empty the water from any saucer, better yet, remove the saucer altogether. It’s almost impossible to over water plants in containers when the water flows out the bottom. Root rot and other problems are more likely to occur from the constant wicking action when water is left in a saucer not to mention the West Nile Virus concern from the breeding mosquitoes. The best time of the day to water plants is in the morning before eleven. With ninety degrees or higher temperatures, water daily and make a second application may be necessary in the late afternoon to those plants in the heat of the day sun. It’s advisable to apply a wetting agent such Grow More E-Z Wet or similar product to increase the water flow through a root-bound plant. Besides frequent watering, here are some other things you can do. Move those containers in the afternoon sun to a shadier location when the temperature is over ninety degrees. These plants can survive temporarily in shady conditions since our typical heat spell only last a couple of days. Plant dollies or walkers with wheels make this a simple task and are available at your favorite garden center. Another option is to place the plastic pot inside a larger container, the so-called pot in pot method. You need to leave at least a two-inch space between the containers that are then filled with small bark to increase the insulation.

Q. In April, I planted several heirloom, Brandywine tomatoes. The plants are producing plenty of flowers, but they’re drying up and falling off before they set fruit. Could you tell me what might be causing this?

A. It is early for the fruit set on Brandywine tomatoes, so I wouldn’t be pushing the panic button just yet. It’s not unusual for the first group of flowers to fall off and fail to set fruit. You should expect to see tomatoes by the end of the month or early July. Tomatoes primarily fail to set fruit because of cool nights and or the lack of pollination. Another issue can be excessive nitrogen causing the plants too grow rapidly. I don’t think this is an issue since there was no mention of any excessive growth. Tomatoes like constant nighttime temperatures above fifty-five degrees. The marine influence is a significant factor in delaying the formation of tomatoes. The closer you’re to the water, the more problematical it can be. Warm days generally translate into warm nights inland so the fruit set occurs as expected. You need to be selective as not all tomato varieties produce well in all of our many microclimates. Unlike other edibles, fertilization and pollination does not occur simultaneously in tomatoes. They’re two separate events. Once pollination occurs, a pollen tube must form to transfer the pollen down to the base of the flower where fertilization occurs and tomatoes form. The cool nights slow the tube formation. After four days, the flowers drop off whether or not fertilization has occurred. The chief pollinator of tomatoes is the wind and not bees. We usually have enough of an afternoon breeze to do the trick; however, poor air circulation can still be a problem. You can aid Mother Nature by gently shaking the plants. The best time to do this is midday. Another option is to spray the open blossom with Blossom Set. It is successfully used on melons, squash, and cucumbers where pollination is a problem.

Roses, Radishes & Bok Choy

June 1, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. What is the dark round parasite on the undersides of the leaves my Rose of Sharon? It’s just starting to bloom with beautiful pink flowers, so I hate to cut it down, but the leaves are really grossing me out. What can I do to save the plant?

A. The dark brown raised structures on the undersides of the leaves is not a parasite or bug. It is a fungus called Rust. Rust can be a problem on a variety of hosts. On roses, and turf, it’s a bright orange color. Typically, the dark reddish-brown type is found on Snapdragons and Hollyhocks; however, it will infect Rose of Sharon, Flowering Maples, and Mallows. Rust is an air bore disease that infects only when the right conditions are present. The fungi spread from plant to plant or area to area mostly by the wind; however, insects, rain, and animals may help spread the problem. While the spores are circulating, they’re dormant. It takes moisture on the foliage of a host plant at night to germinate the spores along with mild temperatures. Usually, three to four hours is sufficient. With some plants overhead watering late in the afternoon can be problematical, but I don’ t think this was the case with your plant. The trigger here was the wet condition we had in May. The fungus always shows up after the fact. You could apply a fungicide, but I probably would do nothing. The rainy season is over for the year, so the dry conditions limit the infection. I’d pick off the worst of the infected leaves and feed it with all-purpose plant food to encourage the new growth. Besides, remove any of the debris that may have fallen at the base of the plant.

Note: Rose of Sharon or Hibiscus syriacus is a widely cultivated deciduous ornamental shrub. It’s native to Asia and is the national flower for South Korea. But it is often mistakenly thought of as a biblical plant. The biblical reference is for a different plant, Pancratium maritimum, which blooms in the late summer on the ‘Sharon Plain’ on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea just above the waterline.

Q. I’ve been told that I planted my Bok Choy seeds a little too late this year. They are just over an inch tall right now. Will I have any luck with them or should I replant in the fall?

A. I wouldn’t give up on them just yet. The odds of them reaching maturity is not very good with the long days. Bok Chop is a cool-season, short day oriental vegetable. With mild conditions along the coast, you’ll be okay; however, with warm temperatures inland, they’ll go to seed or ‘Bolt.’ Bolting is a survival mechanism in annual plants. When the growing conditions are unfavorable, they’ll produce the next generation, seeds, prematurely as quickly as possible. This also occurs at the end of their normal life cycle.

Q. What could be easier than growing radishes? My recent crop sprouted within two weeks, and now they are flowering! The foliage is very lush with tall stems, but the radishes are tiny and thin. I’ve never had this happen before. What do you think is the problem? Were the seeds planted too shallow or too deep, is there too much Nitrogen in the soil?

A. Lush top growth with little or no root development is the typical growth pattern with radishes, carrots, and other root crops from too much Nitrogen. Nitrogen stimulates the top growth. The plants grow rapidly at the expense of the underground plant parts with short-term crops. The excessive Nitrogen occurs from commercial fertilizers, animal manures, and from blended, soil amendments used as organic matter. Of the three, the soil amendments are the least problematical. With clay soils, they are critical for drainage and to help with soil compaction. For a ten by ten area or one hundred square feet, two cubic feet of animal manure and five pounds of Vegetable Food plus the soil amendment is sufficient. Many times the area is underestimated while the nutrients are over-applied. It’s the ‘if a little is good then a lot more is even better,’ rational. Superphosphate is often substituted for Vegetable Food, where root crops are to be planted. Superphosphate has no nitrogen but plenty of phosphorus for root development that is the edible portion of the plant. This situation is easily corrected by adjusting the Nitrogen-based nutrients at the time of planting. Nitrogen is a mobile element, so it leaches out of the soil over time. I wouldn’t hesitate to plant a new crop of radishes right away, but I wouldn’t add any more nutrients. I would cultivate the soil and may add more amendments before sowing the seed.

Mulch & Pine Trees

May 2, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’ve been using straw as mulch in my vegetable garden to keep the soil from drying out too quickly. Unfortunately, it has two problems; it’s messy to transport, and it’s full of weed seeds. Are there any compatibility problems, if I switch to redwood bark? If so, would the bark chips be okay, or would you use the shredded variety?

A. With the rainy season concluded and the arrival of warm temperatures, it’s time to think about mulching not only in your vegetable garden but around roses, camellias, azaleas, and other landscape trees and shrubs along with seasonal color. There are no compatibility concerns with any of the types of bark or shredded redwood products. You can mix and match different types of mulch, including shredded paper products. You’ll need a thick, two to three-inch layer to conserve moisture and prevent the weed seeds from germinating. Mulch from previous years needs to be replenished as it breaks down over time into smaller and smaller particles. Eventually, it forms an ideal growing medium for undesirable plants. If you’re using a landscape fabric or other type of weed barrier, you’ll need to remove the old mulch before adding the new material. The Old material is then used when planting new plants or mixed with potting soils for container plants. It has a beneficial use. It’s not necessary to mulch to the main trunk of plants. The canopy of the plant(s) should be sufficient to shade this area if not then mulch to the trunk. Weed seeds are always going to be a problem with any bulk product that is stored outside in open bins. They’re regularly exposed to the weed seeds that blow in with the wind. Whatever bulk material you decide on, you can hedge your bet against the unwanted growth by applying a pre-emergent herbicide. Pre-emergent herbicides are applied over rooted plants, preventing the weed seeds from germinating. The nursery professional at your local garden center can advise you on what to use in your yard.

Q. We have cut down a huge, old pine tree that was in my backyard. It’s been years since I’ve had this much sunlight, so I’m excited about planting. But before I do so, what do I do to counter the acid soil from the pine needles?

A. It’s unlikely that pine needles would change the soil chemistry, making it acidic. This bit of garden lore is fiction, a myth that has been around for generations. Pine needles have a pH ranging between 3.2 and 3.8 when they fall from the tree. If those materials are incorporated into the soil before decomposing, they may have a small effect on the soil pH. When used as mulch, it has little impact on plants, as the roots are not growing in the material. You can double-check the pH of your soil with a simple pH Kit available at many garden centers. As the needles decompose, the microbes will neutralize them further. Pine needles are an excellent material to mulch around plants. Pine needle mulch is long-lasting, will help keep down weeds, conserve soil moisture, and eventually break down, adding nutrients back into the soil. Also, they don’t wash or float away, have a uniform color and texture, that’s visually appealing, and finally, it doesn’t attract termites. In a compost pile, you should limit the amount of pine needles. Pine needles have a slightly waxy coating and are very dry, and they take a long time to break down. For faster compost, limit the number of pine needles, about 10% to 20%, along with other garden trimmings and then balance the mix with grass clippings, food scraps, and or coffee grounds. You’re looking for a 50% ratio between the brown items and the green. The benefit of adding pine needles to a compost pile is they maintain proper aeration, do not compact and keep air flowing through the pile. Another concern raised periodically, is that the needles contain Terpenes. Terpenes are chemical molecules said to retard germination and new growth; however, the effect is short-lived. By the time the pine needles turn brown, most of the Terpenes have evaporated. Terpenes are easy to detect using the sniff test. They’re responsible for giving pine needles its pleasant fragrance. Hence, when the scent is gone, so is the Terpenes.

It is hard to grow anything under pine trees, so the acid soil myth continues. The real reason why plants struggle is because of the copious number of surface roots of varying sizes that compete for water and nutrients and the dense shade. While the shade is now gone, the roots are still present, and unfortunately, they aren’t going to decompose anytime soon. This network of roots makes digging of any new holes challenging. You might opt to avoid this problem altogether by constructing a series of raised beds. Instead of disposing of the needles, I’d rake them into a pile or bag some of it to use later. And finally, pine roots don’t send up suckers like other trees,

Japanese Maples, Hybrids & Epson Salts

April 7, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. We have a six-year-old Coral Bark Japanese Maple. Last year, a few of the smaller branches turned black, and we pruned them off. Now one of the three main branches is doing the same thing, and the leaves are withering. The shape of the plant will be ruined if we remove it. What should we be doing?

A. It’s never good news when the stems of a Japanese Maple turn black. The black coloration is a primary indicator of a vascular disease called Verticillium Wilt. Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne fungus disease that’s common in our Bay Area soils. When the infected stems are cut, you’ll find black streaking through the tissue. It attacks a wide range of ornamental and herbaceous plants including, tomatoes, peppers, roses, Pistache and Camphor trees. The fungus works its way up the plant from the roots disrupting the vascular tissue that is responsible for transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant. Unfortunately, we have no controls for this problem. The disease does attack without warning. Our poorly draining, heavy clay soil, and excessive summer watering doesn’t help. It’s particularly frustrating when Verticillium Wilt attacks established and thriving ornamentals. With tomatoes and other vegetables, we can plant resistant varieties, but that’s not the case with Japanese Maples. I’d removed the infected limb because it is not going to recover and encourage the new growth by feeding it an organic fertilizer. A replacement branch can be selected from the new growth. Leaf blight can also cause dark, deadened shoots and curled, darkened leaves on the tree. Airborne bacteria, such as Pseudomona is also responsible for leaf and branch dieback on a Japanese maple. But Verticillium Wilt is by far the primary suspect.

Q. How would I know if the hybrid vegetable seed I’ve planted has been genetically engineered? I’ve planted several hybrid crosses along with some heirloom tomatoes, and now I’m concerned that they may be unhealthy.

A. This shouldn’t be an issue, nor would I pull the plants and discard them. For generations, plant breeders have been cross-breeding the genes of compatible plants. Their goal is to create a new plant with the best traits from both parents such as early maturity, early flowering, disease-resistant, etc. The new plants are called F-1 Hybrids or just Hybrids. Seedless Watermelons and Pluots are recent examples of popular hybrids along with a countless number of tomatoes, other vegetables, and seasonal color plants. If you’re a seed saver, hybrids have a significant drawback and that they’re very unpredictable in the next generation, so it’s generally recommended not to waste your time saving the hybrid seed. Instead, you want to save open-pollinated varieties. Open Pollinated varieties are simply those varieties that are capable of producing seeds that will produce seedlings just like the parent plants. They breed exact traits year after year because of natural selection. Any variety that has been around a minimum of fifty years, an arbitrary number, are then called an Heirloom variety. These terms are often used interchangeably. F-1 Hybrids and Open-Pollinated varieties should not be confused with the modern-day gene splicing or genetically engineered plants. To be technical, USDA considers any plant, animal, or microorganism produced through any type of genetic modification as to be a genetically modified organism (GMO’s). While a hybrid plant is a GMO, it’s not genetically engineered. Genetically engineered varieties combine atypical genes that are not found in nature. The only way for them to occur is by human intervention and manipulation. Plants like corn that has the pesticide Bt engineered into its genetic makeup to make it resistant to certain pests is an example. Bt is a natural pesticide, but it would never naturally find its way into corn seed, they’re created using molecular genetics techniques such as gene cloning, slicing, and protein engineering. Another example, is herbicide-resistant soybean, cotton, canola, and alfalfa, so you control broad spectrum grasses and broadleaf weeds without damaging the original plant. These varieties have no application in home gardens. Hence, you will not encounter any packets of genetically engineered seed in home and garden catalogs or in the seed rack at their favorite garden centers.

Q. Can Epson Salt be applied at the same time you are adding a systemic fertilizer to roses? I don’t think there is a problem, but I’m just double-checking.

A. There is no problem applying Epson Salt with any other type of fertilizer. Epson Salt or Magnesium Sulfate is added as a supplement to traditional fertilizers. Magnesium is a secondary element necessary for plant growth that helps keep leaves green. With roses, it also stimulates the formation of basal canes or shoots. With old roses, this is an important method to rejuvenate the foundation canes.

Junipers, Plum Trees & Soil Levels

March 11, 2020 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I need to trim a mature row of junipers along the side of the house. My neighbor cut his last year, and it looks like a “Brillo pad.” What is the proper way and time to prune junipers to avoid it from looking ugly?

A. Junipers, cedars, redwoods, cypress, and other conifers are pruned November through mid-April. Unlike other evergreen hedges, junipers are very slow to produce lateral growth off the bare, older branches. This presents problems when the junipers have been left to grow unattended over the years. They do not recover quickly from a heavy shearing; hence, you get a very unattractive “Brillo pad” look. Unfortunately, it will take several growing seasons for this look to disappear. Junipers have only one major flush of new growth per year, and that is in the spring. Now to avoid this, you’re going to have to prune the junipers back in steps. It’s done over the next several years, always leaving some of the vegetative growth. I’m faced with a similar dilemma at my mothers-in-law’s house. She has a hundred feet long and twenty-foot wide row of juniper that edges the property along the street. This was a very typical landscaping pattern when the area was initially planted in the seventies. Besides, this would be a moot point if I wish to replace the juniper and re-landscape the area, but I don’t. It’s going to be slow and tedious, but the alternative look is unacceptable. Another pruning note: wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt. The sharp needles from the junipers will puncture the skin. When the skin comes into contact with moisture, there will be a stinging/burning sensation that lasts for a few hours. Also, the puncture points will be red and sore for several days—a lesson I learned the hard way. There is a second reason for pruning now, as the open pruning wounds are a perfect entry point for insects. It takes a good week for the wounds to callus over or seal themselves. The activity of the harmful insects increases with the spring weather.

Q. Every year, we get aphids on our flowering plum tree. I’ve read that ants transport aphids, but I have never seen any ants in the area of these trees. What do I do to prevent the aphids? Also, the tree is struggling. Half the tree has finished flowering while the other half is still bare, and the branches are brittle. Can this tree be saved, and will any pruning help?

A. The aphid problem is easy to solve. Once the leaves start to emerge, be on the lookout for any leaves that are curling. Once you see the curly leaf, spray the Plum tree with insecticidal soap making two applications a week apart. I’d then pick off the curly leaves and dispose of them. This should protect the trees from any further attack for the year. Aphids are inevitable on a wide range of plants. Even without the present of ants, aphids are mobile. They are present year-round, but it’s during the spring with the flush of new growth that they are the most active. Your biggest concern should be the tree’s health. The section that has not leafed out and is brittle is probably dead so remove all it that growth. Next, step back and take a hard look at what is left to decide if it’s worth saving or if it needs to be replaced. It will take several years for it to recover. Pruning will never cure what is ailing a struggling tree. Pruning only enhances the shape and form of trees and shrubs. If you decide to keep the tree, I’d then remove those branches that hinder the over shape of what’s left. This has to be a judgement call on your part. Next fertilizer with an all-purpose fertilizer to encourage the new growth and set up a regular watering schedule. And finally, I’d record the progress with a digital camera or smartphone.

Q. We would like to raise the soil level about one foot around four very old and lovely-blooming Wisterias. Our first choice would be to bury each plant. Is this possible? Our second option is to dig the plants up and replant them. The last thought is to install plant wells around each plant. What would you suggest?

A. Of the three options, the least desirable is to bury the plants by raising the soil level. This is not advisable at all as it’s a sure proof way to kill them. The Wisterias could be transplanted to a new location, but given their age, it may not be feasible. I think the most practical solution is to build permanent plant wells around each plant. They should extend from the trunk to beyond the drip line. This is where the majority of the roots are located. You can use a variety of materials such as railroad ties, concrete blocks or moss rocks to hold back the soil.

Buzz Bertolero is an Advance California Certified Nursery Professional. The Dirt Gardener’s website is www.dirtgardener.com and questions can be sent by email to buzz@dirtgardemer.com or on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero