Buzz Bertolero

Mothballs, Cherries & Beets

April 7, 2019 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’ve been using mothballs to discourage cats from digging in my flower beds. Would it hurt to use them now in an herb garden?

A. There was a time when this would have been an acceptable solution, but not today. Mothballs contain one of two toxic ingredients, paradichlorobenzene or naphthalene. They’re considered a pesticide because of the fumes that cause health issues that range from simple irritations to serious medical conditions resulting from prolonged exposure. Cedar is the acceptable indoor replacement for clothing moth control. Outdoors, poor air circulation is not a problem, and the vapors do repel cats and other intruders. There is no indication that I’m aware that the fumes are absorbed by plant tissue so, in theory, mothballs should not be any more problematical than air pollution. However, the more significant risk comes from the chemicals getting into the soil inadvertently from hand watering, sprinklers or mother nature. Hence, I’d go in a different direction entirely and avoid all the potential risks in all areas. Today, there are non-toxic alternatives. Cat repellents are available that are safe to use on edibles. These products use plant fragrances, such as clove, mint, and rosemary, along with other non-chemical sources to drive cats away. The one drawback, like most repellents, is that they’re water soluble so they must be reapplied often. I prefer a natural plant debris option since cats don’t like to walk on a surface that irritates their paws. Juniper debris and the spiny leaves from the California Live Oaks are two of types of natural plant debris that can be used while pine and redwood debris is ineffective. They’re also used as a mulch for additional benefits. Also, leaves from California Live Oak controls snail and slugs. So you have several other solutions that are less toxic than Moth Ball to repel cats.

Q. I have a mature Bing cherry tree that hasn’t produced cherries in the last three years. I don’t believe pollination is an issue as I’ve seen lots of bees when it was blooming. What has happened?

A. Even with the bee activity being regular, cherry trees can fail to set fruit. Most cherries require a second tree for pollination as they are not self-fertile. Bing cherry needs Black Tartarian, or Van to set the fruit. Two Bing cherry trees will not work. What has changed with your tree is that the pollinating variety, used by the bees, is missing. In previous years, a nearby cherry tree, either next door or up the street, would have pollinated your tree. That tree has either died or been removed, so you’re ending up with no cherries. You’ll have to plant a second tree, or you could graft a pollinator on to the original tree to produce your next crop of cherries. Those looking to plant new trees should look for Self-Fertile Bing or Stella. They do not require a second variety as they are self-fertile. Unfortunately, they can’t be used as a pollinator.

Q. I’m having a problem with my beets. The foliage is lush and green, but the beets were tiny. I grew them last year without a problem. What has happen?

A. Undersize or small beets, carrots, radishes, etc. is caused primarily by an excessive amount of nitrogen. Nitrogen is one of the primary elements for plant growth. The nitrogen forces the plant into a growing-spurt which gives you lots of top growth and little to no roots. So the edible portion never fully develops as the plant is too busy growing. I’d plant again, but first review the amount of vegetable food and or animal manure you are using and reduce it significantly. A second reason can be overcrowding. The beet seedlings need to be thinned to one to three inches apart and space the rows a foot apart. This allows sufficient space for them to develop.

Fruit Cocktails Trees & Weed Block

March 12, 2019 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Recently, I saw an advertisement for a “fruit cocktail” tree. I’m intrigued. What should I expect from planting one?

A. A fruit cocktail tree typically has a peach, plum, nectarine, and apricot growing on a single trunk. They are also referred to as a “four and one combination fruit tree.” The “fruit cocktail” name is strictly a marketing name created by an out-of-state mail order nursery. They were available locally during the eighties but faded away. They’re once again being promoted because of the homegrown trend. While they have great name recognition, the trees don’t always live up to their expectations. I’d expect them to disappoint many gardeners who don’t recognize the unique issues necessary in growing them successfully. The diameter of the grafts are not uniform, so the trees look unbalanced or awkward, but they will balance in time. The plum and apricot grafts are usually pencil-thin while the peach and nectarine are more the size of your thumb. The grafts are fragile. If one breaks off, you now have a three-and-one tree. The four varieties do not necessarily have the same growth rate; hence, they’re pruned throughout the year to avoid overcrowding. Each variety should be allowed to occupy only a quarter of the canopy space. During the winter months, you’d remove fifty percent of the peach and nectarine growth and half as much (twenty-five percent) with the plum and apricots. The grafts can easily exceed fifteen feet without some diligent pruning to keep the height down. They’re planted seven to ten feet off a fence line to keep all the fruit in your yard. Established deciduous fruit trees are watered deeply, twice a month, so the area under the tree should be left unplanted, to prevent overwatering. Apples, pears and Asian pears are the exceptions. Frequent watering is a quick method of attracting borers and eventually losing the tree. With today’s small gardens, this can really limit the available planting area. If you have a large enough garden then planting three to four trees in a single hole is a better option. The trees are spaced two feet apart in a triangle within a four-foot planting space. You’ll have multiple varieties growing in a small space with sufficient room for each variety to develop. You’ll get to select your personal favorites, not someone else’s. The key to choosing varieties is the ripening date. You don’t want all the fruit to ripen at the same time or while you’re away on vacation. I’d select Ultra Dwarf fruit trees over a semi-dwarf variety, as the Ultra Dwarfs grow to about ten feet. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource for selecting combinations of fruit trees, as they’re all not compatible. You’ll find a video on planting three trees in a single hole, at http://www.davewilson.com/video/diy_1.html.

Q. Several years ago, I replaced the plastic sheeting in my yard with landscape fabric. The fabric was to stop the root rot that was killing the plants. The fabric was covered with bark to control the weeds. It did the job for but last year, and now there is grass and other weeds throughout the area. Why isn’t the weed fabric working?

A. The landscape fabric didn’t fail you. The fabric is superior to plastic as a weed barrier around plants as it allows the soil to breathe letting the excess moisture evaporate. It also prevents weed seeds from germinating and with a thick layer of mulch it suffocates other weeds. However, it’s not a permeant solution. Bark and other organic mulches decompose while adding an aesthetic look to the landscape. It’s not thought of in this fashion, but it’s a form of passive composting. The more prominent particles become smaller, while the smaller particles become tiny and so on. You end up with soil that supports the growth of desirable and undesirable plants on top of the fabric. Now add in another factor. We don’t live in a sterile environment. The annual vegetation on the hills produce seeds that are redistributed by the wind. In non-irrigated areas, the seeds lay dormant until the rainy season and where there is moisture the weeds germinate throughout the growing season. Landscape fabric will only control the weeds under the barrier. Those resting on top of the fabric sprout in time. Hence again, it should never be thought of as a permeant solution. There are several options in dealing with this problem. Every three to four years, you rotate and replenish the mulch. This would require you to remove the old mulch from the fabric and separate it into fine and coarse piles. The coarse material is mixed with the new mulch and spread back over the area. The fine material is then added with other soil amendments or potting soil for container plants. Another solution is to leave the mulch in place. You then spray the weeds with Round-Up or similar non-selective herbicide and be sure to protect the desirable plants from the spray. Once they have died off, apply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the dormant weed seeds before they germinate. The pre-emergent herbicide can be applied right over the top of existing plants without harming them. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center can help you decide which product or solution is best for your yard. Depending on the size, there are granular and liquid solutions. Also, you handle irrigated and non-irrigated areas differently, because water activates the chemical barrier. Also, you do not want to cultivate the treated areas, as you will disturb the barrier. Each solution will work for an extended period, so check the label for the specific time. With a new or revamped landscape, the landscape fabric or plastic is unnecessary if you adopt the pre-emergent strategy.

Rhubarb & Fountain Grass

February 9, 2019 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Is this a good time to plant Rhubarb? Does it grow better in the sun or the shade? Should I use a trellis or poles to support the stalks?

A. Rhubarb can be planted year-round, however January through May is when it’s widely available. Bare root divisions or clumps are found during the winter months while container plants are available in the spring. Rhubarb is grown in the open ground or in containers. They like a sunny location along the coast but must be protected from the heat of the day, summertime, and sun inland. For the average family of four, two to three plants will be plenty. The colorful stalks are the edible part of the plant. It’s important to note that the leaves, while safe to handle, are poisonous. To be successful growing Rhubarb, you should dig nice large holes and amend the native soil with homemade compost or soil conditioner at a 50-50 ratio. The plants are planted three to four feet apart and fed regularly with a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote, Dr. Earth or similar plant food. The fertilizer provides the necessary nutrients to encourage the new shoots from the base of the plant. They are rigid enough so it’s not necessary to provide any additional support. Rhubarb is harvested starting in April through the early summer. You should not harvest any stalks the first year and pick a small crop the second year. You’re in full production in the third year.

Rhubarb is harvested by grasping the stems firmly at the base of the plant and pulling them. The stalks should snap off cleanly. Avoid cutting any of the stalks as this could damage the plant. Every four-five years, during the winter months, Rhubarb is divided or when the clumps of stalks start to thin.

Q. Last summer, I planted purple fountain grass in the side yard and it’s now four feet tall. I was told that it can be cut way back. How often should this be done and how low can I go? Also, I was surprised when it turned brown. I thought it was an evergreen plant.

A. Fountain grass is an evergreen plant in mild climates. Here in the Bay Area, it is very common for it to turn brown from cold temperatures. It doesn’t have much tolerance to chilly nights. The cold is a descant that pulls moisture out of the foliage causing the leaves to burn or turn brown. Since our soils never freeze, the plant roots are not damaged. All the new growth will come from the base of the plant left in the ground. Once the foliage has turned brown, prune it off as close to the ground as you can get as they will never be green again. However, there is no great rush as the new growth is still a ways off. In March, with the days getting longer and warmer, fertilize with an all-purpose plant food to encourage the new shoots.

Crab Grass & Roses

January 9, 2019 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Please tell me the best time to control Crabgrass. I treat it every year and it always comes back. Is there anything I can do without replacing my lawn?

A. Now is the time of the year to control the dormant seeds of Crabgrass. It is also the time of the year to make your first application of a lawn food. There are several combination turf products available. They include a fertilizer along with a pre-emergent herbicide for Crabgrass and other weeds such as Scott’s Super Turf Builder plus Halts. It’s the pre-emergent herbicide that prevents the dormant seeds on the ground from germinating. For the actively growing Crabgrass, you would apply a different herbicide later in the year. I’m going to assume that you are applying the right product at the right time. Your lack of success can only be from one other thing. You have some other weed other than Crabgrass. Today, Crabgrass has been used as the universal label for all the unwanted vegetation that shows up in a grass lawn. The primary suspect that isn’t controlled by a Crabgrass herbicide is a perennial weed called Bermuda Grass. Bermuda Grass is a mass of wiry stems that goes dormant or turns brown in mid-November through mid-March. It spreads rapidly with warm temperatures. These brown stems are very visible today. On the other hand, Crabgrass is an annual that dies out in cool temperatures. It disappears during the winter leaving behind bare ground or spots where it was. This is a distinguishing characteristic that separates it from all the other suspects. Your first step is to determine what the problem is. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource in sorting through possible solutions. There is more than one right answer.

Q. My roses are still blooming should I prune them now or wait? Also, after pruning, which of the following dormant sprays should I use; Volck Oil Spray, Sun Spray Ultra Fine Oil, or the lime sulfur fungicide? Is there anything else, I should be doing?

A. I wouldn’t delay pruning my roses just because they’re in bloom. However, it is early enough in the pruning season not to be in any great rush so you can wait if you so choose. You could apply any one of the three products, but my preference of dormant spray would be the lime sulfur fungicide. I’d save the Volck and Sun Spray Oil for use during the spring and summer months. They are excellent organic controls for the pests and diseases of roses. Before spraying, clean up all the debris around and under the bushes and be sure to strip off any of the foliage on the canes that remain from the previous year. Finally, loosen or relocate the metal name tag. All too often the wire griddles the stem causing it to die. I’d attach it to a nail at the top of a wooden stake placed in front of the plant(s). a

Hummingbirds, Garlic, and Narcissus

December 9, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Should I store my Hummingbird feeder for the winter? If not, how do I go about protecting it from the cold? Also, could I capture one and keep it as a pet?

A. Hummingbirds are active during the winter months as long as they have a source of food. Hummingbirds have the highest energy expenditure of any warm-blooded animal. A Hummingbird needs to intake more than its body weight in nectar each day, and that can be difficult during the winter. With little to no flowers for nectar, a liquid feeder is their only option, so I wouldn’t be inclined to take it down. I’d also replace my Hummingbird food with Kaytee Hummingbird ElectroNectar. Kaytee Hummingbird ElectroNectaris the first-ever, hydrating energy drink for Hummingbirds. This naturally clear nectar was developed to mimic flower nectar with added electrolytes and no added colors for overwintering hummingbirds. On those nights when the temperature is going to dip below thirty-two degrees, you have two options. You can bring the feeder inside at night and put it back out early in the morning. Hummingbirds need to start feeding early in the day after coming out of a torpor. The torpor stage is similar to hibernation, and it occurs when their metabolism slows down or when food is in short supply. Your other option is to insulate the feeder by wrapping the bottle in bubble wrap. Keeping a hummingbird as a pet is possible with the right size structure and food sources; however, it is illegal to do so. In the United States, capturing a hummingbird violates the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. This law makes it illegal to possess or capture any migratory bird, including hummingbirds. In addition to the prohibition of holding or capturing a hummingbird, the act also makes it illegal to keep a hummingbird nest, egg or baby. The penalties forbreaking this law include a steep fine.

Note:Hummingbird facts from a variety of sources:

A hummingbird can fly in any direction at speeds of thirty miles per hour or more and have a heart rate of over twelve hundred beats per minute. Hummingbirds are capable offlapping their wings at a staggering rate of eighty times per second and lick their food at a rate of about thirteen licks per second. They do not use their feet for walking or jumping, but only for perching. Hummingbirds have a lifespan of about four years and grow to about eight inches in length and weigh less than an ounce.

Q. I’ve had poor luck growing garlic. The cloves are small while others never develop or rot away. What can I do to improve my success?

A. Garlic Sets, along with Onion Sets and Shallots are planted in the fall and winter months. You harvest those planted in mid-September through Thanksgiving in June with the late January through February plantings later in the summer. The key to successfully growing garlic is the soil preparation and planting Certified Seed Garlic and not those found at a supermarket. Seed Garlic is available at your favorite garden center. It looks just like the supermarket garlic, but it’s different. Supermarket garlic was grown for consumption, and not to be replanted. The variety may not be suitable for this area. When planted, the harvested cloves are under size, and the yield is inconsistent. Also, they’re sprayed with a retardant to reduce sprouting, which explains why some cloves never develop. Seed Garlic produces large, full-size cloves and is variety specific for our area. Garlic needs drainage to prevent the cloves from rotting so generously amend your soil with organic matter, or compost. The soil microbes then convert the organic matter into plant nutrients. I’d also add an organic vegetable food at planting and use a minimal amount of animal manure. Soak the cloves for five minutes in one part Clorox to ten parts water, to help with the rotting issues and remove any flower shoots. Garlic grows from individual cloves broken off from a garlic set or bulb. Plant the cloves with the root end facing down. Each clove will multiply in the ground, forming a new bulb that consists of five to ten cloves. The cloves are planted two inches deep, in rows, four to six inches apart, and you space the rows a foot apart. If it’s too muddy to plant, I’d then consider using containers.

Q. I was very successful in growing and forcing Paper White Narcissus into bloom in a shallow dish of water. They were very fragrant for Thanksgiving Day. What should I do with the bulbs? I’d like to store them and use them again next year.

A. Paper White Narcissus or any other bulb that is grown in water and sand should be thrown away when the flowers are spent.Unlike those planted in soil, forced bulbs have no capability of rejuvenating themselves for the following year. A bulb is a storage chamber. Besides the food manufactured by the leaves, bulbs will store nutrients from the soil. Once this is completed, the bulb goes dormant. The foliage turns yellow/brown and easily separates from the bulb at ground level. Depending on the bulb type, you can let them naturalize in the soil or dig them up and store them for the following year.

Note: Flowering Tulips, Daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs growing in containers shouldalso be discarded. They are usually growing in sand and not soil. Sand has little nutrient value but does drain quickly.

Frost, Lawns, and Roses

November 10, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. We have a newly landscaped yard, and I’m concerned about the winter cold. What is the best way to protect the plants from frost damage? I thought I heard about a spray that protects plants when it freezes.

A. Cloud Cover or Bonide Wilt Stop coats the leaves of plants with a protective layer that insulates the tissue from the cold but it still allows the leaves to breathe. The best non-technical description for these products is “Chap Stick” for plants. While you can apply it to all your plants, it’s really not necessary for any plant that drops leaves, like Japanese Maples, evergreen, woody ornamentals such as photinia, camellias, pyracantha, etc., along with conifers such as redwoods, pines, and junipers. Bougainvilleas, mandevilleas, hibiscus, citrus, and succulents are the primary cold-sensitive plants. This applies to those plants in the open ground or in containers. Our first frost or freeze date isn’t until December even though it’s getting cold at night. So there are ample opportunities to apply Cloud Cover or Bonide Wilt Stop now and let it dry. It’s a milky color that dries clear. Frost or cold is a descant, pulling moisture out of plant tissue causing the cells to rupture. The foliage is brunt and you’ll have dead stems and branches, depending on the internal moisture of the plant. It is crucial that there is moisture in the ground. Mother Nature supplies it in the form of rain but plants under any type of covering need to be watered with any frost or freeze warning. The severity of the damage is determined by how cold it gets and how long the temperature stays under thirty-two degrees after the sun rises. Plants are not affected by the wind chill, only the actual temperature. With such warnings, I’d be prepared to cover the sensitive plants with a plant blanket such as N-Sulate, but not plastic as the cold will travel through it. The plants are covered a dinner time and removed at breakfast. All you need to do is toss it over the plants. It’s not necessary to tie or secure it. Frost or freezing temperatures only occur when the air is calm with no air movement. It will not blow off. Typically we get three to four such warnings each winter. Also, it’s not advisable to wrap plants like a mummy for an extended period of time. Container plants should be clustered together and grouped next to the house. The escaping heat is beneficial. Also, add some non-LED miniature lights. The lights give off small amounts of heat that can warm the cold air under the blanket. Even with the Cloud Cover or Bonide Wilt Stop, water, a protected covering and lights, damage can occur. I wouldn’t be in any hurry to prune off the frost damage as it can help protect the foliage below. The danger of frost is usually over by St. Patrick’s Day. But there are those years when there is a late frost, so wait until April to prune.

Q. I installed a new lawn four months ago. Is it too late to feed it?

A. No. it’s not too late to feed turf. In the fall, lawns are fed once between Labor Day and Thanksgiving. Fall is a crucial time of the year to feed grass as it is at this time that the new grass plants form. Another benefit is that the grass remains green during cold temperatures and doesn’t turn that ugly yellow/brown color. From January through June, I’d feed it twice, every six to eight weeks depending on the fertilizer and skip the months of July and August. Your grass will respond by staying green year round.

Q. I’m revamping, my rose garden and need to know when is the earliest time I can successfully move established roses to another location?

A. The transplanting season for a wide variety of plants begins in the middle of November, or when the daytime temperatures are below 70 degrees, and concludes in early April. You could transplant roses, ornamental shrubs, or conifers now but I’d wait until March for citrus. It is also at this time that you would root-prune established container plants and replant them in the same pot. With roses, I’d prune them first to make a move easier. You could reduce the height and bring them inside and then finish the pruning next year. If the new site isn’t ready, you can transplant the roses successfully into plastic or paper mache pots. The roses can thrive for six to eight months in pots. Also, if Mother Nature disrupts your plans, temporary containers are an excellent Plan B.

Perennials, Roses & Compost

October 11, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My perennials are looking shaggy with brown leaves, and leggy branches. Do I have to wait until spring to cut them back or can it be done now? Also, what perennials can I plant for year-round color? I don’t want to mess with annuals anymore because I’m tired of replanting them.

A. Perennials are groomed now, or you could wait. I’d groom the spring blooming ones now, so they are ready to take off as the temperatures warm up in March. Most of the Sages, Evening Primrose, Shasta Daisy and Penstemon can be pruned off to the ground as they produce basal shoots while others are trimmed back for shaping. You’re correct in that perennials don’t need to be replanted like annuals, however their blooming cycle is seasonal and I’m not aware of any herbaceous perennial that blooms year round. Flowering ornamental plants such as Floral Carpet Roses or Euryops have a very long bloom season. Garden Mums, Cyclamen, and English Primroses are the primary fall perennials. Mums have the shortest flowering season while Cyclamen and English Primroses bloom continuously through May. Next spring and or summer, you could add Iberis, Foxglove, Coreopsis, Penstemon, Verbena, Phlox, Bacopa, Million Bells, Rudbeckia, and Echinacea, the Coneflower just to mention a few. Also, don’t overlook the contribution from variegated foliage from landscape shrubs and grasses. Your favorite garden center now has a selection of small perennial plants in packs. Planted now, these varieties will bloom next year. If you wait to plant in the spring, these plants won’t bloom until the following year. You avoid this with those plants growing in four-inch pots and larger sizes. Your first step might be to step back and evaluate the blooming pattern of the existing perennials to see which season needs to be enhanced. Also give some thought to the type or shape of flowers you prefer—daisy shape, columnar, or just dainty-type flowers. Do they need to be large, small, or somewhere in between? There are lots of right answers but what is the right one for you? The areas do not need to go colorless as you would mix in a few annuals. I’m a believer in mixing annuals and perennials to bridge the color gap. You could add Primulas, Primroses, Calendulas, Pansies, and Violas for next color. Planted now, they will continue blooming until next April/May. I’d plant them close to one another as they’ll grow very little between now and next February and add some nutrients with a Starter Fertilizer to prevent the leaves from turning yellow. You now have year-round color with a minimal amount of replanting. And finally, as the leaves drop, be sure to gather up all the debris that accumulates at the base and around the plants. The foreign material packs down around the crowns with the winter rains. It can cause the plants to rot during the rainy season. It’s repeated as needed during the fall and winter. I think it’s only time a think a blower make sense.

Q. Two years ago, I dug up ten little Rugosa rose seedlings and planted them. One of the bushes is four times larger than the others and never bloomed. Can I rectify this problem by adding extra phosphorous? Also, is it possible that a hybrid wild seed produces a seedling(s) that is not capable of blooming?

A. Adding additional phosphorus is not going to correct this problem. With nutrient deficiencies, all the bushes would be experiencing the same problem, not one out of ten. Your second assumption is correct. You’re dealing with genetics. Seedling roses like many other plants are unpredictable when started from seeds. The genes from one parent combine with a second. Flowering is one of the many characteristics that may or may not transfer from seedling to seedling. Hence, vegetative plant parts are used to produce commercial plants such as cuttings, budding, grafting, divisions, etc. Vegetative reproduction guarantees that every cutting will mirror the parent or donor plant. I’d then select the most vigorous cutting(s) to replace the non-blooming plant.

Q. I started a compost pile and was amazed at how fast everything decomposed once the pile got going. I used food scraps and yard clippings including the pruning from my peach tree that had leaf curl. Before planting this spring, I added the compost to my vegetable garden. Now, my bell peppers and pole beans have what looks to me to be leaf curl. Is my soil contaminated?

A. As a general rule, we don’t compost diseased plant parts. The internal temperature of a compost pile doesn’t get hot enough to destroy the disease organisms or weed seeds. Diseased plants trimmings are disposed of in your garden trimming container for weekly pickup with the other household solid waste and recyclable. Although in this case, the diseased leaves have done no harm and your soil is not contaminated. The leaf curl on peaches is called Peach Leaf Curl. It’s a water-activated fungus that attacks only peach and nectarine trees. It will not affect any other species. Also, the fungus spores overwinter above ground not in the soil. Curly leaf on plants can be caused by many different things such as insects, herbicide damage, and changes in temperatures along with the fungus diseases. On apple, cherry and plum trees, Aphids are the primary cause of leaf curl. Aphids are sucking insects, and you’ll find them on the new growth. They cause the leaves to curl up like an Italian cookie. The herbicides in Weed and Feed turf products cause curly leaves with Mulberries and other shade trees planted in and near a lawn. The leaf curl is a reaction to the chemicals absorbed by the roots. Citrus leaves curl up from cool temperatures in the winter months. So, again there are many reasons for leaf curl. The good news is that Peach Leaf Curl hasn’t contaminated the compost or vegetable garden soil. I’d take a few samples of the curly leaves on the peppers and beans to your local garden center and have a nursery professional help identify the problem(s). My guess would be you have some type of sucking insect problem.

Apricots, Roses & Hydrangeas

September 3, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’m concerned about my fifteen-year-old Apricot tree. In the spring the growth is lush and vigorous, but in the early summer one branch or limb will become sick and dies. Eventually, I have little or no tree left. This is the second apricot tree to decline similarly. What can be done to prevent this?

A. The primary causes of die back in the canopy of apricot trees are Phytophthora Root Rot and Eutypa Die Back. They affect both major and minor branches or limbs, and the disease symptoms look very similar. The one factor that distinguishes or separates the two diseases is when the die back occurs. Phytophthora Root Rot is a soil-borne fungus that attacks the roots of Apricot, along with Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and many other ornamentals. Root rot is the primary suspect when a limb or section of a tree fails to break dormancy and leaf out. It’s the causal agent when for no apparent reason the foliage on a branch collapses or wilts and turns brown shortly after the rainy season concludes. You would expect this problem in clay soils that drain poorly and receive excessive summer irrigation. A good soaking with a large watering basin once every three weeks is sufficient for established apricots as well as other fruit trees, and planting under their canopy is discouraged. Phytophthora Root Rot is a slowly developing disease. You’ll find more information at online at Http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r5100911.html. However, from your description, I don’t think root rot is your problem. Instead, Eutypa Die Back would be my guess. Eutypa Die Back is only an issue with Apricot trees and grapes. It’s an airborne fungus that enters the tree through the pruning wounds made during the winter months when it’s wet and damp. The affected branches or limbs collapse in the late spring, after Memorial Day, or in the early summer for no apparent reason. You prevent this from occurring by changing the time of the year you prune. It is now recommended to prune Apricots is the late summer. Although the leaves haven’t dropped the tree is going dormant as its growing season has concluded.
You’ll find more information about Eutypa Die Back at Http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r5100911.html

Note: When fruit trees are under stress, borers will attack, and it’s not uncommon for globs of amber colored sap to be on the limbs and branches. Also, it is possible for an Apricot to be suffering from both of these diseases concurrently.

Q. I have several beautiful rose bushes, but they’re developing small red flowers on some aggressive growth that in some cases are over eight feet tall. The growth is taking over the rose bushes. What can I do to prevent this from happening?

A. Most of the modern-day roses are not growing on their own roots. Instead, they are budded on to a second type of rose known as the rootstock. They are joined together at the bud union. The bud union is the large knot near the ground. Any shoots or growth from below the bud union is growing off the rootstock. This plant produces a single, cherry red flower, which is what I think you are describing. These rogue shoots are commonly referred to as suckers. Roses sucker naturally, so it’s impossible to prevent them from reoccurring. All you can do is be observant and prune off the shoots as they develop.

Q. I’ve been successful keeping my Hydrangeas blue by applying a weekly, diluted, solution of Aluminum Sulfate. I’ve also turned my white Hydrangea blue. Now, I’m experimenting by applying it to several roses, Iceberg, a pure white and Sterling Silver, pale lavender. What might I expect?

A. I’d expect there would be no color change in the roses. Roses, unlike Hydrangeas, are not affected by the acidity or alkalinity of soil. Acidity or alkalinity is measured by the pH scale which runs from one to fourteen. A reading of seven is neutral while seven or below is acid and eight an above is alkaline, It’s the acid soil that makes Hydrangeas blue while alkaline soil turns them pink. In between, they revert to white. Aluminum Sulfate is an acidifier, but there are several others available. I’d be concerned if the pH falls below five. So far, I doubt that has happened. You can monitor the pH with a simple pH kit available at your favorite garden centers.

Peppers, Basil & Azaleas

August 5, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I finally planted several Jalapeño Peppers, and I’ve been pleasantly surprised at how well they have grown but disappointed that the flavor has been quite mild instead of hot. My wife thinks I picked them too soon. What do I need to do to increase the heat?

A. Your wife is correct. You’re harvesting the peppers too early. When mature, Jalapeño Peppers should be three-inches long and two-inches wide. The color will cycle from a green to a darker almost blackish- green color. Some varieties of hot peppers do turn a blackish-red. If left on the plant long enough, all the varieties will turn a red color. Red Jalapeños have a wonderfully sweet/hot taste. Once you think maturity has been reached, harvest a few and check their flavor. If the taste is suitable, then you’ll know you can pick the rest when they reach that stage. If they’re not quite spicy enough for you, wait a few more days and try again. You’ll need to keep trying the peppers at different stages until the taste suits you. The Scoville Heat Unit Scale measures the spicy heat or pungency of each pepper variety. This scale runs from twenty-five hundred to over a five million. Jalapeño Pepper is around ten thousand while the Ghost Pepper is over a million. Also, geography plays a role, as mature chili peppers are more intense the closer they’re grown to the equator. Hence, a mature Jalapeño Pepper growing in Orange County will be hotter than those in San Jose or Portland Oregon. Jalapeño Peppers sold locally are not being grown in the Bay Areas. They’re probably from Southern California or Mexico. If they continue to be too mild, then you should plant another more intense variety next year.
Note: When harvesting hot or chili peppers, you should carefully snap each pepper from the plant. Better yet, use a pair of sharp garden shears or scissors to cut the stem an inch or so above each pepper. It’s highly recommended to wear a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands, especially those with nicks and cuts from any of the plant juices. Also, don’t touch your eyes for whatever reason as you will encounter severe and intense discomfort.

Q. I’m growing Basil in a planter, but it is being eaten alive, except I don’t see any bugs. My mother says it could be snails and gave me a roll of copper barrier tape to use to keep the snails out. Should the copper tape be wrapped all the way around the box? Would one of the soap products be a better solution?

A. Insecticidal Soap or any soap product is ineffective in controlling snails and slugs. Insecticidal Soap is an effective solution for controlling soft body, sucking insects such as Aphids, Mealybugs, Mites, and Scale. Also, it’s not recommended for controlling those insects or pests that chew holes in the leaves of plant(s) such as caterpillars, worms, or beetles. Insecticidal Soap is a contact spray, so the insects need to be present. They are safe to use on edibles because there is no residual left on the plants. So, you avoid spraying when no insects are visible. The copper barrier tape is a solution that stops the forward progress of snails and slugs, but it will not kill them. It should be wrapped all the way around the planter box to establish the barrier. You could place the tape under the lip of the planter, or any other inconspicuous location is preferable. Actually, the placement doesn’t matter. The copper barrier tape should last about two years before it deteriorates. A very long-term solution is Copper Plumbers Tape, available at most home improvement retailers. The planter has a better chance of falling apart before the copper tape needs to be replaced. Another option is Sluggo Plus, an environmentally friendly slug and snail bait that is safe to use around edibles. It would be applied to the soil. Slugs, Snails, and Earwigs consume the bait at night and then return to their habitat and die. Sluggo Plus is reapplied monthly.

Q. My White Alaskan Azalea has grown to be about three feet tall and about four feet wide. The white flowers cover the plant when it blooms. How do I prune it and still maintain the heavy blooming?

A. The best time to prune Azaleas is after they finish blooming. However, it still can be done now. You can shape the plant by trimming it lightly with a pair of hand shears or heavily with an electric trimmer. Pruning doesn’t interfere with the blooming cycle. It’s the size of the canopy that usually dictates the mass of color as Azaleas bloom on the current year’s growth. I wouldn’t expect you would see much new growth if you prune now. So the canopy size would be smaller than last year and so would be the mass of color. You could also consider waiting until next year to prune. I’d continue fertilizing with Azalea, Camellia, and Rhododendron Food to encourage the growth. This should be done monthly through October. Osmocote, a time release fertilizer, is another option. Osmocote releases a few nutrients with every watering, and you would apply it twice a year, four months apart.

Kill the Lawn, Pruning Trees

July 9, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’m trying to kill off my lawn and replace it with drought tolerant plants. Is there any weed killer available that won’t harm my pets?

A. There are a number of organic herbicides available today that kill the existing grass along with being safe to use around pets and kids. Bonide Burnout and Dr. Earth Final Stop are two. Burnout uses acetic acid, commonly known as Vinegar, Clove Oil and a lemon extract while Final Stop uses Citric Acid, Clove Oil and other essential oils. They do an excellent job in killing the grass and have a pleasant smell when applied. They’re both non-selective herbicides so don’t spray them on any desirable plants. They bind themselves to the leaf surface of weeds and grasses and rapidly begin destroying the cell structure through a ‘burn down’ process. There are no residue issues as they are one hundred percent biodegradable. Once in the soil, they become inert, so the roots of desirable and non-desirable plants are not affected. Shallow-rooted, cool-season grasses such as Fescue, Blue, and Rye grass are easily killed, but they aren’t recommended for killing Bermuda Grass, St. Augustine Grass, Zoysia Grass and other deep-rooted perennial grasses. With these varieties, you’ll need to use a harsher herbicide. Burnout and Final Stop are water soluble so don’t turn on the sprinklers shortly after application. It is best to wait until the foliage has dried. You might consider Sheet Mulching as an option. Sheet Mulching will kill the existing grass without using any chemicals, but you’ll need a good supply of cardboard or newspaper. You’d mow the grass as short as possible and then cover it with a thick layer of cardboard or newspaper which is then covered with a three-inch layer of mulch. Next, cut holes in the layer, plant and install drip irrigation by converting the existing sprinklers to drip. The grass dies because of the lack of sunlight so Photosynthesis can’t take place. You’ll find more information at

https://www.marinwater.org/158/Sheet-Mulching-Guide or google “sheet mulching.”

Note: If there are large mature shade trees around the area, they’ll now need to be watered as the lawn watering did it before. This point is usually overlooked in the conversion, causing them to suffer from water stress. They can be watered using a soaker hose, drip stakes, or deep root irrigator. They can’t go all summer without water.

Q. I sprayed Round Up along the cracks of the sidewalk to kill the weeds. It did a great job; however, the over spray killed the edges of the lawn. Is there anything I can do to correct this?

A. Unfortunately, it’s too late to do anything to save any of the damaged grass. Once it turns a yellow/brown color, the grass is dead, and there is nothing that will reverse the effect. In the future, you can prevent this problem from occurring by using a cardboard plant shield or barrier. It is simple to use and very effective. As you get close to the edge of the turf, you place the shield or barrier between the edge of the grass and the sidewalk or a driveway. Round Up can be sprayed right up to the barrier as it’s a leaf absorbed herbicide that kills only the leaf surface it contacts. It doesn’t feather or bleed out so you can spray in a straight line. If you spray half a leaf that half or portion is the only section that is killed. Round Up is never absorbed by the roots of plants; hence, it’s never sprayed on bare ground. You move the barrier along as you spray. The plant shield doesn’t have to be very long and just tall enough to prevent the spray from drifting. Also, it doesn’t have to be cardboard, as any solid material will do. What to do next to repair the damage is going to be a judgment call on your part. You could do nothing and let the grass fill in on its own. But, you’ll have to be very patient as it’s not going to repair itself this season. Reseeding the damaged area with Pennington One Step or Scott’s E-Z Seed is the option that I favor. These products include the seed, mulch, and fertilizer. All you’ll need to do is rake up the dead debris and apply the material and water. Watering is the key as you’ll need to sprinkle the area three to five times a day, depending on the temperatures until it germinates which is about two weeks. July is a tough month to re-seed so you may wish to wait until the fall. The damaged area is probably too small to re-sod.

Q. Is there a rule to follow as far as pruning back trees that hang over from a neighbor’s yard? Our neighbor’s tree stands over 2-1/2 stories tall, and it shades out some portions of our yard. Is it okay for me to cut the over-hanging branches?

A. The general rule of thumb is that you can prune any tree back to the property line, which is usually the fence. However, the pruning cannot increase the risk of the tree falling over by making it lopsided. I might have an arborist come on site to evaluate the tree and make a recommendation. The report then can serve as a valuable document in case there is an issue in the future.