Buzz Bertolero

Blueberries, Hydrangeas & Roses

June 9, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Three years ago, we were given several Blueberry plants that we planted in containers. So far, they have yet to produce any berries. How long do we have to wait until the plants start producing and when should they be pruned?

A. Blueberry plants produce berries at an early age so you should have had a crop by now. For berries to form the plants must flower and the flowers need to be pollinated. There are early flowering varieties, mid-season, and late-blooming Blueberries. They must be pollinated by another variety from the same blooming period. Blueberries are also grouped according to their winter chill requirements. Because of our mild winters, the Southern Highbush which are the low chill varieties, are the best-suited blueberries for Bay Area gardens. Knowing the variety name would answer a lot of questions, but I’m going to assume that they are unnamed. So, that leaves you with two options. You wait another year to see if the plants bloom at the same time. If so, then the problem is that the varieties are not suited for our climate, or they are the same variety. You need two different varieties, with a similar blooming period. If the varieties, bloom at different times, you could replace one with another variety or increase the number of blueberry plants in containers. The second option would be to replace both varieties now and save a year. A good selection of Blueberries is now available at your favorite garden center. I might suggest Bountiful Blue or Sunshine Blue as they are self-ferule and you avoid the pollination problem altogether. This would be my preferred option. Blueberries are pruned annually in February before the flush of new growth. Excessive pruning should be avoided because it greatly reduces the crop for that year. The plant(s) is kept fairly open by cutting out weak and older non-producing stems down to the ground. You should also remove all the dead or dying branches. As a general rule, you keep four to six of the vigorous, older stems and one to two strong, new shoots per bush. The new shoots will eventually replace the older stems. Another reason for pruning is that it limits the plant from over producing. If all the flowers are left to develop into berries, the berries will be small, ripen later than normal, and the plants will have little new growth.

Q. My hydrangeas grow into beautiful plants each year, but they do not flower. What do I need to do to encourage them to bloom? I’ve tried 0-10-10 in the past with no success, and my gardener has no answers.

A. The failure of Hydrangeas to bloom is not a fertilizer issue. For those plants planted before 2000, the primary suspect is pruning. Hydrangeas bloom on the second year wood. When the bushes are pruned severely, all the flowering wood is removed. With these varieties, you only want to prune off the flowering stems each year. They are removed as far down to the ground as you can go. The rest of the plant is just shaped. It may be too late for flowers this year. Many times this is the result of an inexperienced gardening or gardener service. They can maintain grass well, but their horticulture is a bit shaky. So, I’d tell the gardener not to prune the Hydrangeas and do it yourself. Also, the plants should flower next year, even if you trim the plants lightly this year. The Endless Summer series of Hydrangeas were introduced this century. The Endless Summer Hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood, so you avoid the pruning problem with the Endless Summer series or similar series. You get the wonderful flowers every year whether or not your gardener trims it at the wrong time or too vigorously. The series features both the traditional shaped Hydrangeas as well as a Lace Cap variety.

Q. I didn’t prune my roses well enough during the winter months. I’ve now got some gangly stems that are being blown around by the wind. Is it safe to drastically prune the roses once the first sets of flowers are finished?

A. Sure, you can drastically cut roses back after the first, second or third blooming cycle, but you’ll need to take special precaution with the bare or naked canes after they are pruned. The newer canes or growth are green in color while the mature canes are a brown color. They are very susceptible to sunburn from the direct sun. One of the purposes of the leaves is to shade the immature growth from the heat. Sunburn causes the canes to turn black, and they may die from it. Sunburn is not a problem during the winter months as the days are shorter, the temperatures are much cooler, and on many days there is cloud cover with moisture in the air. You shade the naked canes for four to six weeks by covering or draping shade cloth over the plants. Be sure to feed the roses with Rose Food to encourage the new growth. The shade cloth is removed once the new growth shades the bare canes. If there is lots of foliage left after pruning, it will not be necessary to cover the plants. Also, unseasonably cool temperatures, plants that in the afternoon shade may reduce the need for a covering. This is a judgment call on your part.

Berries, Photinia, and Clover

May 10, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I want to plant Raspberries and Blackberries in a six-foot-wide side yard. How might I control the underground runners? I’m considering planting the vines in the ground or building a raised bed with a root barrier. Which option do you favor?

A. You’re correct in being concerned about the underground stems or rhizomes. Raspberries and Blackberries, also known as cane berries, are very intrusive and do not respect a property line. Planting them on any shared fence is a major mistake. You’ll have a difficult time controlling the vegetative growth that grows through and under the fence into your neighbor’s yard. Cane berries are a guaranteed expensive, neighbor dispute waiting to happen. So, I’d be looking to plant them off the fence line in a two-foot high, four-foot wide raised bed. A ‘root barrier’ is always a good idea whether the vines are in a raised bed or in the ground as another layer of protection. In the center of the bed construct a ‘T-bar’ trellis; a 4×8 post every six feet with a 2×4 cross beam, with wires running between the supports and attach the vines to the wire. Also, with the vines off the fence line, you are able to harvest the berries from both sides as each side should get an equal amount of light. Cane berries fruit only on the second year wood, so once you have finished harvesting the crop, you cut the fruiting canes off at the ground, otherwise, you’ll create a thick, thorny, unmanageable, vegetative mess. The new growth at the base of the plants is then attached to the trellis for next year’s crop. Runners will eventually escape and appear in the space between the bed and the fence. The shoots are controlled by hand pulling them or spraying them with a nonselective herbicide.
There are now two dwarf varieties: Raspberry Shortcakes, and Baby Cakes Blackberry, that give you a third option and it’s the option I prefer. They have a compact, upright growth habit, growing three to four feet, so they don’t require staking or trellising. I’d plant them in a raised bed and grow them as a fruiting hedge. The fruit is borne on the second year growth, so you still have to prune off the stems after harvesting. Raspberry Shortcakes and Baby Cakes Blackberry are ideal for individual containers. Joining strawberries and blueberries, they expand the homegrown fruit available to be grown on a deck, patio, or balcony. Fresh raspberries and blackberries are a now reality for all types of gardeners.

Q. We have a ten-year-old Photinia hedge that is approximately six-feet tall. Previously, some of the plants died. The leaves began to wilt, then they turned brown and finally, the whole plant died. They were replaced, and we thought the problem was corrected, but now it’s beginning again. What do we need to do to correct whatever is going on before we lose the whole hedge?

A. Photinias that wilt, turn brown and then die are suffering from root rot. Another tattle tail sign is that before the foliage wilts the leaf color fades. Instead of being a bright glossy green, it’s a dull, muted, greenish-yellow color. Excessive summer watering, especially following a wet winter, poor drainage, and plants that are planted too deep in the ground are the primary reasons for root rot. Similar problems occur with other ornamental shrubs like junipers, azaleas, ceanothus, and grevilleas, along with fruit trees such as cherries, apricots, peaches and others. Because of the age of the hedge, I’d suspect that excessive moisture is the reason for the decline. Established Photinia does not require constant moisture from frequent waterings. They’re waterwise, so once every ten days to two weeks depending on the temperatures, April through October is sufficient. To accomplish this, you may have to cap off the sprinklers around them and then hand water when necessary. By changing the watering pattern now, it may be many months before you see a noticeable change and then again you may not. You need to key on those plants that look healthy. With root rot, what’s going on under the ground is not always apparent above the ground until later.

Q. What can apply to eliminate clover in my lawn?

A. Ortho Weed-B-Gone and Bonide Weed Beater Ultra are two of several selective herbicides available that will remove clover and other broadleaf weeds without harming the grass. You could also apply a ‘Weed and Feed’ type turf product as it should control the clover along with many other broadleaf weeds. So, eliminating clover shouldn’t be that difficult. Another option is to leave the clover. A mix turf of grass and clover is not that undesirable. Clover doesn’t require much care, and it’s water-wise.

Bees, Ants, Lavender & Clematis

April 8, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Last year, I discovered a bee hive in a juniper bush. In January, I hosed it down with a high-pressure nozzle. I think I destroyed the hive or maybe it got too cold as I see no evidence of any activity. What can I do to make sure they don’t return and reestablish the hive?

A. Honey and Bumble Bees along with Wasps are inactive during cool, wet weather but if disturbed, they will fly around and sting. On the other hand, a Yellow Jacket hive is empty or abandoned. In late November, the worker and male Yellow Jackets after mating with the queen(s) die. Shortly after that the queen(s), abandons the old hive and hibernates in the bark of trees and or logs. So, I believe you had a Yellow Jacket hive. It may be a bit early, but the Queens should emerge from hibernation and start looking to establish new nesting areas within the next three weeks. Also, there is almost no chance of a queen reoccupying an old site. Yellow Jackets establish hives under the ground in abandon gopher or other rodent holes. The above ground nests are close to structures like under the eves of a house or in ornamental bushes like junipers. The hives start slowly, reaching their peak in September/October. Yellow Jackets rarely are a problem at Memorial Day, more problematical by the 4th of July and a huge nuisance by Labor Day. In the fall they’re easily agitated as mating season approaches. The hives remain active until November when the process begins or ends again depending on how you look at it. Your best defense against a Yellow Jacket establishing a hive in your yard is to trap the queens early on. I’d reuse my Yellow Jacket Traps from previous years. But first washed them out with warm soapy water before adding any new attractant. Because of the very wet January and February, I expect the Yellow Jacket population to be smaller than previous years as a significant number of queens did not survive.

Q. Three years ago, we planted several English Lavender plants. They are full and bushy, but they get no water except when we periodically drag a hose to them. Right now, they get a lot of wear and tear from neglect. Should the flowers be trimmed off after blooming and when is the best time to shape these plants?

A. The old spent Lavender flowers should be removed along with the stems after blooming. The plant then could be lightly trimmed with a pair of hedge shears but don’t prune them back to bare stems. In most gardens, Lavender plants have a short life span of no more than five years. In our clay soil, the primary problem is the companion plants mixed with the Lavenders. These plants require much more water and fertilizer while lavender plants thrive on neglect. So, I wouldn’t change a thing you are currently doing or suggest anything different.

Q. I have a very old Clematis plant with three-inch fragrant white flowers that always start blooming in mid-February on the new growth. The leaves are six to seven inches long and are a dark green color, so I’m confused when I read that the spring blooming varieties bloom only on the old wood. What type of Clematis do I have?

A. I believe you have Clematis Armandii. It’s an evergreen variety and one of the earliest varieties to bloom each year in February or March. But I’ll have to disagree with you about the type of wood it’s blooming on. February or early March is too early for the new growth on Clematis to be appearing. Temperatures are just starting to warm up from the winter months; therefore, the flowers are on the old wood as the flush of new growth has yet to occur. You’d pruned this variety after the blooming period.

Q. I’d like to get rid of the ants in my lemon tree; however, it is near a fish pond, so, I have to be careful about what I use. Is there something that I can use other than tearing up my whole yard trying to locate the nest?

A. Ants are a nuisance pest in Bay Area gardens. Ants will not cause plants or leaves to turn brown, yellow or any other color nor will they put holes in the leaves or cause them to curl up. At this time of the year, ants are after the sugary substance or nectar in the citrus flowers. They also feed on a clear, sticky substance produced by sucking insects like Aphids, Scale, and Mealybugs. If the lemon is in bloom, I would do nothing as spraying will interfere with the fruit set. After the flower petals have dropped off, I’d make two applications of Horticultural Oil a week apart and cover the fish pond with a sheet of plastic. With the food supply gone, the ants will move on. In addition, place a two-inch band of Pest Barrier or Tanglefoot on the trunk. Pest Barrier is a clear, sticky resin that traps the ants. It’s applied with a popsicle stick. It doesn’t kill the ants, but it does prevent them from climbing into the canopy.

Snails, Primroses & Compost

March 8, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Is there a way I can eliminate snails and slugs from being a problem, before I plant?

A. Yes, snails and slugs will be a huge threat to plants this year. Unfortunately, your chances of eliminating or eradicating them from any garden are nil as they’re a permanent pest. Snails feed at night on herbaceous plants rather than on woody ornamentals. As the sun comes up, snails look to hide in cool, dark areas. They also hide in the canopy of ornamentals like citrus, camellias, and others where they feed on the leaves. Each adult snail lays less than a hundred eggs. A young snail takes four months to two years to mature depending on the availability of food and moisture. Because of our climatic conditions, it’s sooner rather than later. After the rainy season concludes, an adult snail retracts into their shell in dry, non-irrigated areas. They close off the opening with a mucus seal that hardens. Snails can remain dormant in this condition for up to four years. Hence, snails are a year-round problem. Watering in the evening hours contribute to their activity while a soil surface that is dry, limits their movement. We control snails and slugs with a variety of organic methods such as hand picking, stale beer, egg shells, copper tape and organic baits. Sluggo is the organic bait safe to use around edibles and non-edibles along with kids and pets. Copper tape is recommended for controlling snails in ornamentals. The tape is attached to the main trunk about two feet off the ground. It prevents the snails from advancing into the canopy. In addition, bait the area under the canopy for an additional layer of protection. There is no advantage to bait ahead of planting as there is nothing to attract the snails unless you’re applying it to a ground cover. So, I’d wait until planting and spread the bait over a wide area and repeat baiting monthly. During the summer and fall, you reduce the size of the application area to those areas under irrigation.

Q. I planted primroses last fall, and they have done wonderfully through the winter. The flower cluster uses to be just above the foliage, but now, they’re much taller and flopping over. Why does this happen?

A. This is a common complaint with Pacific Hybrid English Primroses. The stretching is a genetic characteristic that occurs as the days get longer, so it can’t be prevented. You avoid the problem by planting the dwarf or Acaulis varieties. With dwarf primroses, the flowers are not borne in a cluster on a single stem. Instead, each flowering floret is supported by an individual stem that isn’t affected by the day length, so they’ll always stay just above the foliage. Dwarf primroses are subject to a gray mold called Botrytis during wet, damp periods. The disease discolors and wilts the new shoots and leaves, usually covering them with fuzzy mats of gray or brown spores as they decay and drop. You can’t prevent the disease but dry condition and good air circulation along with grooming the plants after each wet period halts the spread.

Q. What kitchen scraps should go into a compost pile? My mom says only uncooked fruit and vegetable scraps while I think anything is fair game including chicken soup.

A. Most kitchen wastes are fair game for a compost pile. So cooked and uncooked fruits and vegetables, and yes, even chicken soup that is the solid portion, not the liquid along with coffee grounds and filter could be added. The items that are always excluded are animal feces from meat-eating animals, grease, other fats, and meats. Some kitchen wastes are better disposed of with a disposal unit. With garden trimmings, lawn clippings and solid kitchen wastes, I’d use the active(hot/heat) or passive (cold) composting technique or method. If you’re composting with worms, then use the wet and dry kitchen wastes only. And finally, to avoid having a mess on your hands let common sense rule when deciding which of the kitchen waste you use.

Roses, Fruit Trees, and Fountain Grass

February 8, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My roses haven’t been pruned in several years and are now seven feet plus. When will it be too late to prune as the new growth is starting to emerge? If not, how far back can I prune them? I’ve heard that roses will go into shock if you remove more than half the growth.

A. The winter pruning season can extend into late March. The appearance of the new growth does not signal the end of the pruning season, as roses are pruned year-round. Most gardeners don’t think of it as pruning, but deadheading the spent flowers during the summer and fall months as a form of pruning. Late season pruning, let’s say mid-March on, will only delay when the first flush of flowers are in bloom. In addition, it’s just a ‘gardening myth’ that the bushes will go into shock from pruning. The more I think about it, it just doesn’t make any sense. You haven’t disturbed any of the roots, just reduced the length of the canes. Roses are very resilient plants. They can take a lot of abuse from a pair of hand pruners or neglect. They respond nicely with improved cultural practices. Different pruning techniques are used with the different seasons. The cool winter months allow you to cut the bushes back, exposing the bare canes. If we were to do this in August, the green canes would turn black and die from sunburn. At that time of the year, you would have to cover the plants with shade cloth until the new leaves develop. The leaves shade the canes from the harsh sun. During the growing season, your goals are to remove the spent flowers, reduce the height and bring in the sides. I’d have no problem cutting the bushes down to three to four feet looking for an outside bud. An outside bud or shoot is one that is growing away from the center of the plant. If you don’t find one, wait a couple of weeks and then finish the job. You may have to alter this because of a pathway, or a barrier like a fence of the side of the garage. In addition, remove any dead wood and eliminate the rubbing and crossing branches along with those canes that are growing close to one another. The remaining canes at the base should be spaced about the width of your pruning shears. There is no reason to shy away from pruning today.

Q. We had a problem with fruit tree borers. They’ve killed a cherry and a nectarine tree. What can I do to prevent the borers from returning as we’re thinking about planting new ones?

A. Borers on deciduous fruit trees such as plums, cherries, apricots, peaches, and nectarines occur when they come under stress. Healthy trees will successfully fight them off. The key to preventing borers is good cultural practices that minimize tree stress. The stress is caused by drought, excessive summer watering in clay soil and trees that are planted too deep. Signs of the problem are excessive amounts of sap on the trunk and major branches, dieback in the canopy, and a decreasing amount of new growth each spring. When planting bare root fruit trees, the final soil line should be at the top of the first root. So, here is how you’ll get it right every time. Once the hole is dug, center a 3/4″by 3/4″by 4′ stake in the hole. Lay the handle of your shovel across the hole and make a mark with a Sharpie on the stake. This is the grade level. The tree is attached to the stake so the top of the first root is at the mark and then fill in the hole with the amended backfill. Next year, remove the stake as it has done its job. The new root ball is sufficient to prevent the tree from sinking and being buried too deep. For those trees in containers, the top of the root ball should be a half-inch above the grade to allow for sinkage. You could add a stake to anchor the tree. Mulching later will cover any exposed roots along with the canopy of the tree itself. Plums, Cherries, Apricots, Peaches or Nectarines should never be planted in turf areas. The constant summer water necessary for grass are very problematical. They should be planted in open areas with nothing growing under their canopies. For the first growing season, fruit trees should be watered weekly when the temperatures are above eighty degrees. During the second growing season twice a month and monthly from the third season on. Large watering basins should be constructed so a sufficient amount of water is applied to each tree every time you water. Except for those trees with late-ripening crop, you stop watering deciduous fruit trees at the end of September.

Q. My Fountain Grass has turned brown. How far back can I prune it? Also when will be nice and full again?

A. Fountain grass is pruned down to the ground. The new growth will appear at the base of the clump, as the days get longer and warmer. After Memorial Day, the growth rate will accelerate and the plant should reach full size by mid-July. Now, this all depend on the weather. You can encourage the new growth with a hand full or two of a balanced fertilizer around the drip line in March.

Buzz Bertolero is an Advanced California Certified Nursery Professional and the Senior Gardening Professional at Sloat Garden Centers. The Dirt Gardener’s website is www.dirtgardener.com and questions can be sent by email to buzz@dirtgadener.com

Roses and Winter Vegis

January 11, 2018 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Last spring, I planted nine shrub roses for a background barrier. They’ve done well and are still blooming, but I’m not sure about how and when they are to be pruned. One neighbor says to prune them back to the second set of five leaves. Is that correct?

A. Shrub roses are very easy to prune. Unlike Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, or Floribunda varieties, shrub roses are not cut back to the second set of five leaves. Instead, all one does is shear the plants back very much like a hedge to remove the spent flowers and shape the plant. You could use a pair of manual or electric hedge shears to do the job. There is no set amount that has to be removed, as you can remove from one to fifty inches after each flush of flowers. It’s a judgment call on your part. Right now, I’d enjoy the color and wait until late February to prune. This is the best time of the year to cut the plants back heavily as the spring flush of growth is right around the corner. However, they could be pruned now if you so desire. Also, I’d remove or strip off as much of the remaining leaves as you can and clean up all of the debris under the plants. In March, I’d apply Bayer Advanced 3 n1 Rose Care to feed and control the Aphids along with the rose diseases, Rust, Black Spots, and Mildew. Shrub roses; as well as, another type of roses can take a lot of abuse from a pair of pruning shears, so don’t be timid. If you take too much off, don’t worry, it’s like a bad haircut as the plants will grow back.

Q. I’d like to plant a few fruit trees that would be suitable for my yard. I’ve been told that I must have two trees near each other in order to cross-pollinate. Does that mean, I need to have identical trees or will an apricot tree pollinate an apple tree?

A. Pollination concerns are one of the several things you need to consider when planting a few trees or planning a home orchard. This discussion does not apply to citrus and other sub-tropical fruits. Not all deciduous fruit trees need a second tree for pollination. An apple tree can’t pollinate an apricot or any other type of fruit tree, just another apple variety. Many varieties are self-pollinating such as peaches and nectarines. There are self-fertile cherries and those cherries that require a second variety. So, choosing the right varieties can become very confusing. What I would do is make a list of those varieties you’d like to consider. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is the perfect resource to help you trim the list and suggest some alternatives. Since your books were published, some very good, new varieties have become available. When making up your list, here are some other things you should keep in mind; the ripening dates, the watering needs, and the ultimate size of the trees. The ripening dates should be staggered so you can have a different fruit to enjoy June through September. For today’s garden, a semi-dwarf fruit tree is way too big to plant. They often will reach a height of eighteen feet with a ten-foot spread. Instead, you want to plant Ultra Dwarf or genetic dwarf varieties that stay under ten feet tall. Established Asian pears, pears, and apples need to be watered often while cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, and plums are watered once every three weeks once the rainy season concludes. It also means that the area under the canopy should be kept unplanted. So, you need to group your trees according to they’re watering requirements. Ultra Dwarf or genetic dwarf varieties can be grown in containers, but they’re watered more frequently than those planted in the ground. Now through the end of February is when you’ll find the broadest selection of varieties

Q. Which vegetables can be planted in the shade during the winter months? We’re stuck with a new garden in a new home that all of a sudden has lost all the wonderful summer sun.

A. Exposure, which is sun or shade, is not important at this time of the year. Bright light is all that is required. The sun will return next year as the days get longer. Today, I’d plant any of the leafy type vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, or chard. In mid-January plant garden peas along with potatoes and you can sow the seed for carrots, beets, radishes, and turnips. Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli and Brussel Sprouts are best planted at the end of January or in early February. If the ground is wet, plant them in plastic or wood, rectangular planters. The planter(s) can be moved around, so you get the best light.

Buzz Bertolero is an Advance California Certified Nursery Professional and the Senior Gardening Professional at Sloat Garden Centers. The Dirt Gardener’s website is www.dirtgardener.com and questions can be sent by email to buzz@dirtgadener.com

Christmas Wrap, Trees & Plant Gifts

December 10, 2017 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Why is the holiday or gift wrapping not recyclable, after all, it is paper? I was hoping to shred it and then use it as mulch this summer.

A. While some might disagree, I think it has merit as mulch when shredded and combined with other material. From a recycling point of view, today’s wrapping paper is often dyed, laminated and/or contains non-paper additives such as glitter, plastics etc. which cannot be recycled and made into other products. However, much of it can be composted. You need to avoid high gloss paper, paper with plastic or with metallic coatings, and “Astro Bright.” Tissue paper is ideal to be composted. I know many people believe it’s not safe to compost colored paper, but experts agree the inks used today are quite safe. Most modern inks, in fact, are soy ink, hence much of the holiday debris can be saved, shredded and used as mulch next year.

Q. What can I plant in a container that can be brought indoors for a couple of weeks during the holidays and then moved back outside?

A. I’d consider a Sasanqua Camellia or an Alberta Spruce. Sasanqua Camellias are blooming now with the variety Yuletide being particularly popular. Yuletide has a single row of petals that is a festive, red color with yellow stamens in the center. It’s also available in pink. They make an excellent container plant. Sasanqua Camellias grow six to eight feet tall in the ground, but the size is easily controlled with pruning for containers. The blooming period starts in late fall and is usually finished by January. Unlike the spring blooming varieties, Sasanqua’s grow in the sun so long as the roots are insulated with mulch from the heat of the day sun. Alberta Spruce make an excellent small living Christmas Tree. They’re a dark green color with short needles and a compact growth habit. Whether they’re indoors or out you can decorate them with holiday lights, ornaments or any other type of decorations. For this year, I’d leave them in their original container and transplant them in the spring. The cans can be covered with any number of different materials such as foil, burlap, landscape fabric cover with artificial holly and berries. Before bringing them indoors, water thoroughly several days before by hand and place a clear plastic tray under them to protect the carpet or flooring. I’d keep them indoors for no longer than two weeks and water them immediately when they’re brought back outdoors. With room temperatures around seventy degrees. A cup of water or two depending on the container size, every five days should be sufficient. Also, keep them away from any heat generating source, such as heating vents or a fireplace. Sasanqua Camellias or Alberta Spruce are beautiful and festive around entryways when combined with red and white cyclamen, Zygocactus and, of course, poinsettias.

Q. I was given a mixed arrangement of plants consisting of Kalanchoe, Dragon Tree, and Silvery Queen Pothus. After separating the plants and transplanting them into separate containers, the leaves on the Dragon Tree are falling off. Is that normal?

A. The Dragon Tree or Dracaena is a columnar plant. They’re usually found with multiple plants growing in the same container at staggered heights. It is normal for the lowest or oldest leaves to yellow and fall off first. Unlike other plants, the new leaves will not develop where they dropped off. The new growth forms at the top of the canes; hence, there is no lateral branching. Excessive leaf drop can be from excessive moisture, so you don’t want to over water them. They can go several weeks in between watering. I’d give them a good soaking by watering them in the sink letting the water drain before returning them to their permanent location.

Tulips, Orchids, and Cherry Trees

November 11, 2017 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’ve planted a portion of my Tulip bulbs earlier. The rest are still in the refrigerator and they’ll be planted later this month. Will the flowering season be extended by the staggered planting?

A. November is an excellent month to plant spring flowering bulbs especially those going in containers. But, there is no advantage in staggering the plantings of tulips. Tulips are grouped into early, mid-season and late flowering varieties; such as Darwin (midseason), Parrot (late), Double (midseason), Lily (late), Fosteriana (early) and others. It is the early season varieties that emerge from the ground first, but it varies from year to year. With a warm October and November, it’s not unusual for bulbs to emerge early from the ground; however, that does not seem to be the case this year. Regardless, I would not be concerned about it. When winter arrives, the early sprouting tulips and bulbs, in general, will not be damaged by freezing temperatures. Thus, you extend the flowering period of tulips, by planting some of all the different flowering types but group them together. It is a point frequently overlooked when purchasing tulips. Besides the flowering time, another point overlooked is the stem length as it varies by type. Instead of a showy, uniform mass of color next spring, the tulips bloom randomly at different heights. The expectation from the effort is spoiled and it generates dissatisfaction. Packaged bulbs are better at avoiding this then selecting a mix selection of varieties from open boxes. This is also a contributor to the decline in residential, tulip bulbs being planted nationwide. There is a lot effort with little return. Unlike Daffodils and other bulbs, tulips take several years to rejuvenate themselves whether they are left in the ground or dug up. Hence, you should plant new bulbs each year for the best color presentation year after year.

Q. I have two Phalaenopsis Orchids that have finished flowering. The leaves are fine, but the stems are starting to turn yellow. Do I cut these stems off? How then do I continue to care for them?

A. It’s natural for the old flower stems on Phalaenopsis Orchids to turn yellow and die back. I would not cut the old stems off at the soil. Instead, cut them back leaving about four inches of the old stem. You should get a new flower spike developing from this point in about eight to twelve weeks. Next, I would start feeding them Orchid Food as they are now going into a growth cycle. Orchids are dormant when they are in bud and bloom. Gro More is one of several brands of Orchid Food available. Overwatering is a big problem now so watch the watering schedule. The growing medium is breaking down into smaller particles and holding more moisture. The days between watering need to be extended to prevent them from staying too wet. Replanting is the recommended method of avoiding this problem.Q. My Van Cherry tree is acting strangely. It was bought last spring but we haven’t gotten around to planting it. The leaves are drying up and falling off. Yet, there are new leaves forming and it is flowering again. Is this common with cherry trees?

A. Yes, this occurs periodically in the landscape but it is a more frequent occurrence with container fruit and flowering trees. Water Stress from irregular watering is the primary cause of the leaves drying up and falling off. They should be watered every other day or daily to avoid having problems depending on the temperatures. The rate that a plant loses water is affected by the temperature and the wind along with the container which heats up in the afternoon sun. All of these factors contribute to a plant suffering from water stress throughout the growing season. It starts in the leaves along the outer edges and top of the plant where they turn brown and get very crinkly. If the tree dehydrates completely, it dies. Cherry trees start to go dormant naturally in the early fall. Water stress increases the leaf drop forcing an earlier than normal dormancy. With mild temperatures, shorter days and moisture, the tree awakens from dormancy, flowers and begins a new growth cycle. Although, all of this is short lived. With cooler days and nights, the tree will go back into dormancy and that stops the growth. The tree drops any of the new leaves and the rest of the older leaves. There is no permanent damage done to the tree. Next spring, it will awaken again. Fruit trees should not be carried over into a second growing season in the same container, so, I’d plant it in the ground or a larger container by the end of February. There just isn’t enough room for all their roots.

Tulips, Iris and Hydrangeas

October 12, 2017 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My tulips and daffodils were removed from the ground and stored after the foliage turned brown. When should I replant them and should they be chilled first?

A. Spring or summer flowering bulbs stored from the previous year are replanted during their typical planting season. So you’d replant daffodils, narcissus, tulips, etc., in the fall, while dahlias, gladiolus and others would go back into the ground in the late winter or early spring. Yes, tulips should be chilled for six weeks before planting, but not the daffodils as the ground doesn’t get cold enough. When chilling tulips in a refrigerator, be sure you remove all apples, bananas, tomatoes and other fruits. The Ethylene gas from the maturing fruit can damage the immature flower(s). That being said, the real question is whether it’s worth the effort. Tulip flowers vary so don’t expect last year’s tulips to be as showy this year, as they won’t. They require another growing season before they reach their peak again. You improve the color show by mixing in new bulbs with the older ones. Personally, I’d plant new bulbs each year. This is not the case with daffodils and narcissus, as they’re planted anytime before the rainy season begins. Also, it is common to leave them in the ground year after year. The clumps are dug up and divided when the groupings become so crowded that the flower size is reduced. Also, the overcrowding is the major reason why daffodils and narcissus stop blooming altogether. Typically, they’re divided every three to four years. As with new planting, you should add Bulb Food or Bone Meal. Depending on the size of the bulb, add a teaspoon or tablespoon under each bulb so that nutrients are immediately available to the new roots.

Q. How do I go about planting and caring for Bearded Iris? Is now a good time to plant?

A. Fall is an excellent time to plant Bearded Iris. They like a sunny, well-drained soil so incorporate generous amounts of soil amendments or homemade compost and a starter fertilizer. Next, you will need to level the area and plant the new Irises so three-quarter of the rhizome is above the soil surface. If they’re planted too deep they will rot. Also, be sure the fan of leaves is facing the sun. Bearded Irises are water-wise so be careful not to over-water them during the summer and fall. Remove the spent flowers on a dry day so the soft tissue will callous over quickly. With established plants, do not trim the foliage off except to remove the areas with leaf spots. Only when the leaves turn brown in the fall should they be cut back or pulled off and the clumps can be divided as early as August. You feed them twice a year—spring and fall—with an organic fertilizer. And finally, keep litter and grass away from the Iris plants because clean cultivation is the best precaution against future troubles.

Q. I read that to keep Hydrangeas a pink color you should feed them an acid fertilizer and then to turn them blue, use something alkaline. Each spring, I fertilize my pink Hydrangea with an acid fertilizer but the blooms turn out to be a dirty white color. What am I doing wrong?

A. The flower color on Hydrangeas is determined by the acidity or alkalinity of the soil and it’s measured by the soil pH. A pH scale runs from one to fourteen with seven being neutral. Any reading below seven is acid while any reading above eight is alkaline. A simple pH kit is available at your favorite garden center to measure your soil. Unfortunately, your blue/pink formula is backward. Hydrangeas turn pink in alkaline soils while we get blue tones in acid conditions. You keep Hydrangeas pink or red by fertilizing with Superphosphate or 0-10-10. For blue and/or lavender Hydrangeas feed them Aluminum Sulphate, EB Stone True Blue or similar acidifer. Begin in the fall and continue monthly, February through May. These additives are a supplement to your usual plant fertilizers, not a replacement.

Pumpkins, Gardenias, and Raccoons

September 10, 2017 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. How do I go about preserving my pumpkins until Halloween? They have turned a nice orange color. Should they be left on the plant or do I remove them just before carving?

A. Actually, you could do both. Besides, the orange color, a pumpkin is mature when the rind loses its shine and it’s hard enough that you can’t scratch it with your fingernail. The curly tendrils on the part of the vine near the pumpkin turn brown and die back when it is completely ripe. Personally, I’d remove them and leave them in a sunny location. This allows them to develop a tough, rot-resistant skin and improves their shelf life dramatically. A mature pumpkin can last for months before spoiling, so, you may wish to save a few for Thanksgiving. When you harvest pumpkins, remove them from the vines with a sharp knife or use a pair of pruning shears. You should also leave about three to four inches of the stem attached to the pumpkin. This also extends its shelf life. In addition, harvested pumpkins don’t need to be washed. The dirt can simply be brushed off after a few days of drying.

Q. Last year, I bought a blooming Gardenia at the grocery store. I have it growing indoors where it gets morning sun and lots of light. This year, I‘ve only had two blooms. All the other buds have turned black and dropped off. What can I do to keep the blooms from falling off?

A. Gardenias are not the easiest plants to get to bloom. It’s not unusual for gardeners to have issues with the buds turning black and falling off both indoors and in the landscape. The primary cause for bud drop is nighttime temperatures below sixty degrees. With outdoor plants, September through early November is the best blooming period. You have shorter days and warmer nights along with some humidly. Indoors you have better control on the temperature but it can get awfully dry. So, you might want to place it on a saucer with pebbles and add a little water to raise the humidly. The water line should be below the bottom of the pot. Gardenias do not like to be disturbed so this can be the other reason for bud drop. So with container plants, keep them in one location, and move them as little as possible.

Note: Gardenias found with the blooming plants at supermarkets and other retailers are usually grown under control conditions in a greenhouse while the landscape plants are grown under different conditions outdoors.

Q. Last fall, we had a problem with raccoons. They tore up the lawn to feast on the grubs. I’d like to avoid the problem this year and discourage the raccoons early on. Is there an easy way to tell if the lawn grubs have returned?

A. There is a simple test for the presence of grubs you can do using detergent and water. Grub damage normally starts next to a hot cement or concrete edge and quickly expands towards the center of the lawn. The grass turns brown and you’ll also notice the lawn thinning out or disappearing, leaving bare spots. To conduct the grub test, you should set up several test sites both in the areas attacked last year and some neutral sites. With stakes and string, mark off several two by two-foot squares in each of the areas. Next, mix two tablespoons of a liquid soap or detergent in a bucket of water and pour the solution evenly over the areas. For the next ten to fifteen minutes, you keep a close eye on the soil surface. The detergent agitates the grubs forcing them to the surface. If grubs are present, you control them by applying Beneficial Nematodes. Beneficial Nematodes are an environmentally friendly method of killing all the soil insects except earthworms. Another option is Bonide Grub Beater. This is a granular product that’s applied with a spreader as early as June to protect the area for the balance of the year. I might apply a grub control solution even if the tests prove to be negative or inconclusive. You don’t want to wait until the raccoon’s return as the controls will take some weeks to work, all the while the damage continues. The raccoons will be a frequent visitor until they are convinced that the grubs are gone.