Buzz Bertolero

Is Gardening Therapeutic?

December 7, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’m curious about whether gardening is actually therapeutic. I find it to be a lot of hard work with little return for my efforts.

A. Gardening is a leisure time activity that has lots of levels of enjoyment. However, it’s not for everyone, just like camping, fishing, boating, etc. Gardening provides people an opportunity to get outside; it’s a form of exercise, a change of pace from their normal routine, and a method of developing new skills. A garden allows us to go back to our roots and grow things. Color throughout a landscape is uplifting on those down days. The sound of water in a fountain is relaxing. You can’t beat the taste and satisfaction of growing home grown fruits and vegetables.

Unlike a swimming pool, spa or other upgrades, an established landscape significantly adds to property value. There are many cases where property values decline with the loss of a tree. Horticultural therapy is a growing field, out to prove that the power of nature is more than just an urban myth. These therapists, who straddle the world of psychology, ecology and botany, use gardening as a tool to help people cope with issues such as anxiety and depression, as well as physical health conditions like heart disease and post-surgery recovery.

In Denver, the non-profit Horticultural Therapy Institute, www.htinstitute.org, helps students gain the skills and confidence to create and manage successful horticultural therapy programs. In a May 2014 USA Today article, Mitchell Hewson talks about the benefits of gardening. Hewson is Canada’s first registered horticultural therapist who founded the country’s largest horticultural therapy program at the Homewood Health Center. The center is an addiction recovery and mental health treatment facility in Ontario, Canada. Hewson uses horticultural therapy with people who are suffering from conditions including dementia and eating disorders.

Research suggests that garden therapy is an efficient way to reduce stress, alleviate depression and accelerate rehabilitation in a variety of clinical settings, with no side-effects. In the 19th century, Dr. Benjamin Rush, a signer of the Declaration of Independence and the “Father of American Psychiatry,” was the first to document the positive effect that gardening had on individuals with mental illness.

Personally, I’m not found of weeding or fertilizing, however it’s work that needs to be done. The gardening task that I enjoy the most may surprise you. I like to make tall grass short. This is a task that most people hire out. Mowing my lawn is an outdoor activity in the fresh air, away from the issues of the day along with burning a few calories. When I’m done I enjoy the look and smell of a freshly mowed lawn. Now to your question: Gardening is therapeutic but it does require some work. The many positive aspects are well worth the effort for lots of different reasons.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero

Impatiens and Dead Lawns

November 4, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. This summer I planted three New Guniea Impatiens in pots and grew them in partial shade. They’re doing well. Will they survive the winter or should I bring them inside?

A. New Guniea Impatiens will not survive the winter months outside because of the cold. They can be grown indoors; however, your biggest challenge is to keep them blooming and prevent the growth from getting leggy. Both of these issues are related to the low light condition found in most homes. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your overall plan. If protecting them from the cold is your main objective, then it’s not a big deal. All you need to do is keep them watered. You’ll need to move them into a heated room so a garage is not suitable. They’ll grow more compactly in cooler rooms kept under seventy-five degrees. In late March, you move them outside, cut back the growth and feed them. I prefer Osmocote as you’ll only need to reapply the nutrients every four months but there are plenty of other excellent options. To keep them blooming indoors, you’ll need a location that receives at least four hour of indirect or direct sunlight. This can be challenging during the winter months. The Agro Sunlight from Hydro Farms is a grow light that can help resolve this problem. It’s available at many independent garden centers. New Guineas should survive outside as long as the nighttime temperatures stay above forty degrees but I’d moved them inside by Thanksgiving to be on the safe side. Ultimately, it’s a judgment call on your part. For me, it’s not worth all the trouble to overwinter them.

Q, My lawn is dead from the lack of water since I did not water it all summer. Is there anything I can do to help it come back this winter? It’s really crunchy and brown with lots bare spots.

A. Once a grass has turned brown from the lack of water, there isn’t a magic solution one can do to revive it other than to start over. Now, there are many seasonal grasses that turn brown or go dormant during the summer months but they still require some moisture. They’ll green up in the fall. Once a grass gets to the straw color and crunchy it’s past the revival point. Reseeding a lawn now is not an option as the grass seed germinates poorly with the short days and cool nights. You’ll need to wait until next March. Another option is to replant with a water-wise lawn substitute in the spring. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center can suggest some ornamental plants. The EBMUD book, Plants for Summer Dry Climates, is a fabulous resource of water-wise, attractive plants with great pictures. Keep in mind, they will require watering during the summer months but don’t require as much as a lawn and less when established. It’s not advisable to do nothing as your property value will suffer. One of the lessons learned from previous droughts is the cost to replace a lawn, trees and shrubs is not off-set from not watering your plants.

Amaryllis and Sunflowers

October 3, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My Amaryllis belladonnas have finished blooming. When should the flower stalks be removed? I know that with other bulbs the green leaves are left to feed the bulb for the following year but what about the flower stalks? Also, when is the best time to transplant them?

A. Amaryllis Belladonna is a summer blooming bulb. The only purpose of the flower stalk(s) is to support the blooms. It provides no nutrients to the bulb(s) for the following year; hence, they’re removed any time after flowering. I prefer to remove them soon after the flower fades, otherwise, they look unsightly, as they’ll turn brown before drying up. In addition, the flowers should be removed before they go to seed, as the bulbs may not bloom the next year. Amaryllis Belladonna’s strap leafs emerge in the spring and go dormant in early summer. Shortly thereafter the flower stalk emerges; hence, they’re referred to as the ‘Naked Ladies’. In the United Kingdom, they’re known as the Jersey Lily, the March Lily in South Africa (southern hemisphere) and the Madonna or Belladonna Lily in Italy. Typically, you’ll find several large, pink trumpet shape flowers on a single twenty-four to thirty-six inch flower stalk in July or August. The bulbs can be transplanted in the fall while they are dormant or in the early summer before they flower. By losing its leaves and becoming dormant at the height of the summer watering season, Amaryllis belladonna is an ideal addition to water wise gardens. The bulbs require almost no care, and bloom beautifully almost anywhere. The Naked Ladies bloom for decades and are almost trouble-free, but you can kill them with kindness, that is, excess summer water and fertilizer or from burying them in mulch. Along with other types of amaryllis, Amaryllis Belladonna, the Naked Lady, are now available at many garden centers And, you don’t have to be in hurry to plant them as they can go into the ground as late as February.

Note: It took until 1987 to resolve the generic name issues with the genera, the true Amaryllis is native to South Africa and has solid flower stalks, while the Hippeastrum species is native to South America and has hollow flower stalks. Today, some cultivars of Hippeastrum are commonly called amaryllis.

Q. How do I save sunflower seed for next year? Do I leave it on the stalk, remove it and refrigerate to scarify it somehow?

A. It is not necessary to scarify the seed of herbaceous plants like sunflowers. Scarification is necessary only with woody ornamental plants to crack hard seed coats. As the sunflower matures, the seed separates from the flower head and drops to the ground. The easiest way to gather the seed is to cover the flower with a plastic bag and shake the flower. The mature seed drops into the bag. After you have harvested the seed, I would store it in glass jars and store them in a cool dry location until you’re ready to sow it next spring.

Salvia and Fall Planting Time

September 10, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My house has no backyard landscaping but the front is planted. Can you give me some ideas on where to start and is this the time to plant or should I wait until next spring?

A. Fall Planting Season starts with the Labor Day Weekend. It’s an excellent time to plan and plant, although it’s a short season that ends with the conclusion of daylight saving time, on the first Sunday in November. This is also is when the growing season typically ends, with the short days and long nights. Depending on when the new plants are installed, you may not see much new growth but their roots will get established over the winter months so with spring the plants will take off. The first thing to consider is not the plants but the hardscape; that’s walkways, patios, decks, retaining walls, location of a storage shed , etc. Next decide, if you want any special areas, such as a vegetable garden, flower and/or rose garden, children play area, etc. In addition, the tree placement is important consideration for shading on the southwest side of the house on hot summer days. Next comes, the landscape plan that incorporates all those ideas and adds a plant list to it. EBMUD’s Plants and Landscapes for Summer-Dry Climate book is an excellent reference book for plants that are water wise. All too often the term “drought tolerant plants” is used without realizing that those plants are not very attractive during the hot summer months. The term water-wise is better suited as you get plants that are attractive and use less water. Armed with this information and pictures of the area, you then consult your local nursery professional at your favorite garden center or landscape designer to develop the plant pallet. And finally, the last item is the irrigation plan. This project requires that you spend some time sorting through all the options. Most of them are judgment calls on your part. A backyard design is in many ways more important than the front as this is where most of your time is spent. It also provides the greatest return on your investment in the enjoyment factor. A front yard is for friends, family and drive byes.

Note: EBMUD’s Plants and Landscapes For Summer-Dry Climate book is available at many garden center, bookstores and on line at https://www.ebmud.com/resource-center/district-store/plants-and-landscapes-for-summer-dry-climates/. It contains over five hundred color photos, along with a description of the each species that grow in our deserved climate.

Q. My purple Salvia is being eaten alive by something but I don’t see any bugs. What can I safely use to solve this problem?

A. When plants are being devoured by an invisible bug(s) the primary suspects are snails, slugs and earwigs. You don’t see them because they feed at night and retreat to a cool, damp, shady location during the day. Instead I would use Sluggo Plus or Bonide Bug and Slug Killer. There both safe bait for use on edibles and non-edible plants.

Coffee Grounds in Your Garden

July 31, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I recently read in a gardening book that coffee grounds should not be used in compost piles as they may be toxic to some plants. We have access to a lot of coffee grounds and I’d love to use them in the garden. Are they too acidic?

A. Oregon State University Extension Service has found that coffee grounds are beneficial to plants. Cindy Wise, coordinator of the compost specialist program at the Lane County office says, “Coffee grounds by volume have about two percent nitrogen, and are a safe substitute from the pathogens concerns when using animal manure in a compost pile.” The grounds provide all the necessary bacteria needed to turn organic matter into compost. Contrary to popular belief, she also has found that coffee grounds are not acidic. Instead, the grounds are close to pH neutral, between 6.5 and 6.8 after brewing. The acidity in the beans is mostly water-soluble, so it leaches into the coffee we drink. Coffee grounds can be used in several different ways in a garden. Besides a compost pile, they’re used as a soil amendment and mixed into the native soil when planting new ornamentals. They’re used as a mulch when mixed with other materials and spread around landscape plants and in open areas.

Un-composted coffee grounds will use up the available nitrogen when encouraging the growth of microbes in the soil: hence, it’s important to feed plants often with Dr. Earth All Purpose fertilizer or similar product while the microbes are breaking down the grounds. This will prevent the plants from turning yellow from a nitrogen deficiency. Coffee grounds can be added to both active and passive compost piles. In an active compost pile, one that is turned often and creates heat, layering one part dry leaves to one part fresh grass clippings to one part coffee grounds, by volume is recommended. When turned weekly, the compost will be ready in three to six months. You can add coffee grounds, to an existing pile but be sure add an equal amount of high carbon (brown) source, such as dry leaves, straw or strip of paper to balance right. We’re looking a fifty-fifty ratio between the green and brown components. Oregon State University Extension has had some issues with poor seed germination when using in un-composted coffee grounds in the seed trays or flats so it may be wise to avoid them in this occurrence.

Coffee grounds are readily available and you should make prior arrangements with a neighborhood coffee shop to collect grounds. I’d provide them with a clean five-gallon bucket with a lid. Label the bucket with your name and telephone number on the bucket and lid and then pick it up at the shop’s convenience. Coffee grounds may be stored in large plastic bags for future use but only if they’re to use in an active compost pile. They may develop a mold that disappears in the composting process. And yes, the paper coffee filters may be composted with the grounds.

Does “Full Sun” Mean Full Sun?

July 3, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. This may be a silly question but when a plant label or gardening book says full sun, does this mean that the plant needs direct sun for the whole day or will it be okay if it gets shade in the late afternoon?

A. No, this is a very legitimate question that’s not asked very often. Full sun is defined as any plant that requires six hours or more of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. The sun exposure is not a year round measurement but from mid March through October. Another way of thinking of this is when Day Light Saving Times is in effect. It’s also important to realize that the information on plant labels and gardening books are not tailored to your specific neighborhood. Instead, they’re designed for a region that may include several states. The USDA Hardy Map or the Sunset Western Garden Book Climate Zones are the primary resources. Shade in the late afternoon should not be a problem for sun loving plants. A ‘shade loving’ plant is any plant that requires filtered sun with less than three hour of direct sunlight per day. Full shade does not mean no sunlight. There aren’t many plants, except mushrooms, that can survive in the dark.

In addition, there is another, very broad group of plants that are listed for “sun or part shade.” These plants will need some relief from the intense late afternoon sun, either from shade provided by a nearby tree, other plantings, a building or other means. You should keep in mind that the hottest temperature of the day occurs in mid to late afternoon. There are a wide variety of microclimates in Alameda and Contra Costa Counties. Identical plants can tolerate afternoon sun in one location and burn up in another. For example, Azaleas require morning sun and afternoon shade in Livermore but will grow in the full day sun in Alameda. Thus, measuring the sun exposure for plants is not an exact science. This has lead to a plethora of “sun to part shade” labels that seem to dominate gardening books and plant tags. I’m surprised to see Coleus, Japanese Maples, Fibrous Begonias, Impatiens and other so-called “shade loving” plants thriving in the afternoon sun on the hottest days. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource to help sort things out.

Q. Now that I’ve harvested all the fruit off my apricot, plum and cherry trees, how should I go about watering them this fall?

A. You should scale back the water on fruit trees once Labor Day has passed. A single application in September and October is sufficient. I’d stop watering all established fruit trees in November. The two exceptions are those varieties with maturing fruit and those growing in containers. Citrus is also an exemption. Although they do not show it yet, they’re in the early stages of dormancy and do not require the moisture. You should resume watering next spring after the rainy season has ended.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero

Lillies and Zucchini

June 3, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. My zucchini is shriveling up. I’ve looked on the web and found similar looking issues for a problem called Blossom End Rot. The article suggested that the problem is caused by the lack of calcium. Do you think making up gallons of nonfat dry milk and “watering” the plants will solve my problem?

A. Blossom End Rot is a problem with many summer vegetables. With cucumbers, melons, pumpkins and squash, the fruit form and then quickly shrivel and rot. The vegetables never mature. With tomatoes, peppers, and sometime eggplants, tan to brown blotches form on the maturing fruit. These blotches are found on he lower section or the blossom end of the fruits. They do reach mature and are edible with the flaws. The lack of calcium is one of the causes of Blossom End Rot, however, watering with any type of milk product is not going to work. As part of your soil preparation next year, you would add calcium in the form of Dolimite, Agricultural or Oyster Shell Lime but not Hydrated Lime. The size of the vegetable garden will determine the quantity. Bonide Rot Stop or similar product is a liquid copper that can be applied during flowering. That being said, calcium products will not yield satisfactory results unless you correct the major reason for Blossom End Rot, irregular watering. Watering with a preset schedule April though September doesn’t work. Our temperatures are always in flux; hence, we need to vary the frequency on a weekly schedule. There is no problem with watering more often when it’s very warm. Our problem is watering less often when it’s cool. There is no set formula because every yard is different thus every garden is water differently. Irregular watering comes from the changes in temperature which effect the rate moisture is withdrawn from the soil. The soil preparation, exposure to the afternoon sun, the type of distribution system and the utilization of mulch all affect how often we water. Now, the one constant in all cases is the volume of water necessary to wet the entire root system. It’s just how often we apply the moisture that needs to change. Another problem that complicates things is the plant groupings. Deep-rooted vegetables such as tomatoes and eggplants should be separated from the shallow rooted varieties, such as peppers, squash as they will need to water more frequently. While the answer to the problem is easy, finding the right balance in your yard will take some trial and error.

Q. Do I need to stake my Oriental lilies?

A. Oriental and trumpet lilies produce large perfumed flowers and may need some support once the grow past thirty-six inches. I’d place tall bamboo stakes or sturdy wire supports near the stems but be careful not to skewer the bulb and tie the stems to the supports with garden tape or twine. Place several ties along the stem, starting a foot below the lowest blooms, to prevent the weight of the blooms from snapping the stem.

Hydrangeas and Caterpillar Control

May 6, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I had a horrendous caterpillar problem last year. Can I use a systemic insecticide to control them much like I do with Aphids?

Caterpillar of the Giant Peacock Moth, Saturnia pyri

A. Systemic insecticides will not control chewing insects like caterpillars, or beetles. They do a wonderful job with Aphids, Mites as well as other sucking insects. These insects feed on the plant juices and also ingest the insecticide, which then controls the population. With chewing insects like caterpillars, these chemicals have no affect. You first need to be diligent in watching the host plants for the first sign of the problem. The caterpillar and worm season begins just after Memorial Day and extends into the early fall. Petunias, Geraniums, Flowering Tobacco and Tomatoes are the primary host plants for worms. In addition, there can be several batches of the same problem during the season, so the host plants need to be checked weekly. I wouldn’t spray until there’s a problem or, you could just pick them off the plants and dispose of them. BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis), is an organic solution that gives the caterpillars or worms a fatal case of the stomach flu; however, it doesn’t work immediately so you have to be patient. Spinosad is another organic solution that will kill the caterpillars on contact and provide some residual control. Captain Jack Dead Bug Brew by Bonide is one of several products. Both of these solutions are widely available. In summary: Be diligent, monitor your plants, and react when necessary.

Q. My hydrangeas grow into beautiful plants each year but do not flower. What do I need to do to encourage them to bloom? I tried 0-10-10 in the past with no success.

A. The failure of Hydrangeas to bloom is not a fertilizer issue. Pruning too heavily causes the lack of flowers or sparse flowering. This tends to be a problem with mature plants in older neighborhoods. Hydrangeas bloom on the second year wood. When the bushes are pruned severely, all the flowering wood is removed. Many times this is the result of inexperienced gardening services. They can maintain grass well but their horticulture is a bit shaky. The Hydrangeas will flower next year, even if you trim the plants lightly this year.

Note: For those looking to replace or plant new Hydrangeas, you can avoid this problem with the Endless Summer varieties. The Endless Summer Hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood. You get the wonderful flowers every year, whether or not your gardener trims it at the wrong time or too vigorously. Available at your favorite garden center is the standard variety or the lace cap variety, Twist and Shoot.

Waste-water & Daylilies

April 9, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. What additional chemicals would I have to mix with grey water in order to use it on trees and large shrubs? I vaguely remember something about zinc and iron from back in the nineties.

A. It’s not necessary to supplement grey water with any additives when using it to water outside plants. Grey water is defined as “Untreated wastewater from clothes washers, showers, bathtubs, bathroom sinks, and laundry tubs.” The untreated wastewater from kitchen sinks, dishwashers or toilets, referred to as Black Water, is prohibited. Most home plumbing systems can be modified in order to capture grey water, but you’ll need to check the requirements in your local area. Vegetables can be watered with grey water as long as the water doesn’t come in contact with the edible parts. You will have to change the laundry and bathing products you use to those that are plant friendly. No bleach, dyes, bath salts, cleanser, shampoos with unpronounceable ingredients, and no products containing boron.
Grey water needs to be used quickly as it’s recommended that you don’t store it for more than twenty-four hours. Watering basins around plants is desirable as it minimize run off and acts as a percolation basin. The utilization of Grey water is advantageous for sustainable ecosystems but it’s not right for everyone. You’ll find more information on grey water at
http://ccwater.com/conserve/alternatives.asp
http://ebmud.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/Gray-Water-Fact-Sheet-1009%5B1%5D_0.pdf

Q. Is it too late to divide and transplant my Daylilies? Is the green and healthy foliage normally cut back after they finish blooming? If so how far back are they trimmed?

A. Unless you really had too, I’d probably wait and not move the plants now. Daylilies are best relocated and divided October through the end of March. I wouldn’t cut the foliage off after flowering. Instead, I’d wait until the winter months and then cut the foliage off at the ground, as they do get shabby looking from the winter storms and cold. It could be done early or later as it doesn’t matter to the plants. I prefer later as the green foliage is far more visibly pleasing then the short stubble left after the ground level pruning. Those plants moved or divided in the fall and winter months produce no new growth until the following spring. Before transplanting, I would cut the foliage back to the ground as it makes it easier to move the plants. Using a round nose shovel, sever the lateral roots around the clump then gently lift the clump out of the ground. Next, you slice the clumps in half or quarters depending on their size with a pruning saw, hand shears or shovel. Before replanting remove any of the lose debris from the clumps. I would dig a hole that is twice to three times as wide as each clump and add plenty of homemade compost, soil conditioner or blended mixes to the native soil. Also, add a handful of starter fertilizer to the bottom of the hole. Moving and dividing Daylilies isn’t difficult and you have a high success ratio.

Organic Gardens & Bougainvillea

March 10, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. If, I don’t use organic seeds, can I still have an organic vegetable garden? How do I know if the seeds I’m buying are organic?

A. The term “organic” has been used (or maybe better said “misused”) for some time. There were no uniform standards for growing crops without synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. In 2002, the USDA addressed this question by establishing the national Organic Program (NOP). The NOP established strict standards for the term “organic” food crops, seeds and farms. The USDA Organic symbol is attached to those that meet the standard. That being said, you can still have an organic garden without using Certified Organic Seeds, as it’s not the critical component when growing healthy homegrown fruits and vegetables. An organic garden starts with healthy soil by adding organic matter in the form of homemade compost, soil amendments and some animal manure. With our clay soils, adding organic matter improves the soil’s texture as well as attracting soil organisms that create nutrients for plants to use. The improved texture increases the drainage so a soil can breathe.
Organic matter is annually replenished in the spring as soils are depleted from the previous year. The use of cover crops can also be included, although they are not as practical with today’s smaller yards. There are lots of recipes for soil amendments available at your favorite garden center. Whichever one you choose, my general rule of thumb is to be generous with the organic matter. If you feed the soil then the soil will feed your plants. It’s really common sense. Organic fertilizers supplement the organic matter with additional nutrients. Today we have lots of choices, so it shouldn’t be difficult to find an organic fertilizer at your favorite garden center. Mulching for weed suppression and moisture conservation should be practiced. There are many non-toxic solutions for insects and fungus problems. It’s the cultural practices—not the seeds—that yield an environmentally friendly and healthy source of homegrown fruits and vegetables.

Q. My Bougainvillea was doing great until the frost when it turned brown. I have yet to see any new growth. What is the chance of it recovering?

A. It is a bit early to tell, so I wouldn’t give up on it as yet. It’s always a bit iffy how well a Bougainvillea survives cold temperatures. The foliage will always turn brown but it is the damage to the stems that is the key. The location in the landscape plays an important part in the recovery. With the cold temperatures we had, I believe those planted close to a heated structure will recover while those out in the open are “toast.” The escaping heat from the structure could have kept the plant warm enough. You should have a pretty good idea by the end of April or Mother’s Day at the latest. Bougainvilleas should never be planted with a long-term horizon. It may over winter for many years but eventually a cold spell gets it.