Buzz Bertolero

Horseradish

February 7, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I love Horseradish, the hotter the better so I would like to grow my own. How does one buy and grow Horseradish?

A. Horseradish is a rugged, cold-hardy perennial herb. It’s an evergreen that thrives in full sun but tolerates light shade and can take almost any type of soil except those consistently waterlogged. It’s available at garden centers during the winter months as plants or root divisions. You may also find it in the early spring in containers. Horseradish is not available from seed. Horseradish is an aggressive grower so you must select an out of the way location to keep it under control. The planting hole should be one foot wide and as deep as your shovel. The native soil is generously amendment with any of the blended soil conditioners or homemade compost. The roots can become twisted and malformed in heavy clay soil much like carrots. You’ll be harvesting its roots for its pungent flavor. Next, hold the root upright and backfill until all but the tip or crown is covered. A starter fertilizer is sprinkled over the top of the plant and you water. A two-inch layer of mulch is added after the rainy season concludes. One plant is usually plenty for a family. If you need more, space the plants thirty inches apart.

Your first harvest occurs the following spring, as soon as the new growth begins to forms. In our mild climate, this works better than harvesting in the late fall as is recommended in other climates. Besides, when harvesting in the spring you avoid the hassle of over wintering the root cuttings. The first year roots are the most pungent.

The most common issue gardeners face with horseradish is not how to grow it but how to keep it from growing where they don’t want it. Horseradish spreads vigorously once it’s established so again you should select an out of the way site. To control its spread, harvest all the roots, including its branches, then replant only the number of roots you desire as plants for next year. You would save the longest root(s) for replanting and use the rest for your homemade horseradish dishes. The best method of preventing horseradish from getting out of control is to grow it in a large container or in a bottomless, container placed into the garden soil. It’s also the recommended method in small gardens. This keeps the horseradish in check, allows for good drainage and makes harvesting the roots a snap. The dirt is washed and or scrubbed off the roots and they’re dried before being stored. Horseradish roots will keep in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator for three months or even longer if enclosed in a perforated plastic bag. And finally, whatever you do, don’t till the ground containing horseradish roots or place the roots in your compost pile. You run the risk of spreading the plant all over your garden.

Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero

Crabgrass & Roses

January 9, 2015 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Please tell me the best time to control Crabgrass. I treat it every year and it always comes back. Is there anything I can do without replacing my lawn?

A. Now is the time of the year to control the dormant seeds of Crabgrass. It is also the time of the year to make your first application of a lawn food. There are several combination turf products available. They include a fertilizer along with a pre-emergent herbicide for Crabgrass and other weeds such as Scott’s Super Turf Builder plus Halts. It’s the pre-emergent herbicide that prevents the dormant seeds on the ground from germinating. For the actively growing Crabgrass, you would apply a different herbicide later in the year. I’m going to assume that you are applying the right product at the right time. Your lack of success can only be from one other thing. You have some other weed other than Crabgrass. Today,

“Crabgrass” is used as the universal label for all the unwanted vegetation that shows up in a grass lawn. My primary suspect that isn’t controlled by a Crabgrass herbicide is a perennial weed called Bermuda Grass. Bermuda Grass is a mass of wiry stems that goes dormant or turns brown in mid-November through mid-March. It spreads rapidly with warm temperatures. The brown stems are very visible today. On the other hand, Crabgrass is an annual that dies out in cool temperatures. It disappears during the winter leaving behind bare ground or spots where it was. This is a distinguishing characteristic that separates it from all the other suspects. Your first step is to determine what the problem is. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource in sorting through possible solutions. There is more than one right answer.

Q. My roses are still blooming should I prune them now or wait? Also, after pruning which of the following dormant sprays should I use; Volck Oil Spray, Sun Spray Ultra Fine Oil, or the Lime Sulfur fungicide? Is there anything else, I should be doing?

A. I wouldn’t delay pruning my roses just because they’re in bloom. However, it is early enough in the pruning season not to be in any great rush, so you can wait if you so choose. You could apply any one of the three products but my preference of dormant spray would be the Lime Sulfur fungicide. I’d save the Volck and Sun Spray Oil for use during the spring and summer months. They are excellent organic controls for the pests and diseases of roses. Before spraying, clean up all the debris around and under the bushes and be sure to strip off any of the foliage on the canes that remain from the previous year. Finally, loosen or relocate the metal name tag. All too often the wire griddles the stem causing it to die. I’d attach it to a nail at the top of a wooden stake placed in front of the plant(s).

Redwoods & Christmas Cactus

December 8, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. We have a huge problem with the leaves from a Redwood tree in our garden. We cleared away most of the debris. Would the acidity of the remaining debris prevent anything else we plant from thriving? We’re thinking about installing turf next spring.

A. The debris from the Redwood trees shouldn’t inhibit plants so I wouldn’t be concerned about the acidity. Acid soil from conifers such as junipers, pines, cedars, and redwood is a long standing gardening myth. There may be a concern if you’re using well water or water from the Delta but not from EBMUD and the concern would not be acid soil but alkaline soil. You can always check on the conditions with a simple pH kit. You should take three of four tests and then average the results from dry soil. To avoid contaminating the samples, you should use a plastic, not metal, trowel and the soil should be semi-dry. One other point takes the sample from one to two inches below the soil surface and from different areas. With wet soil you should scoop some out and let it dry out in the garage before running the tests.

My biggest concern about growing under Redwood trees is the amount of light the plants or turf will receive. Redwoods are large, fast-growing trees with a dense canopy. Whatever their size is today, they will be even larger tomorrow. In a short period of time, they will be huge. The larger the canopy, the shadier the conditions under the tree. While we see grass growing under Redwoods in lots of situations, it may not be appropriate in your location. Grass, even the shady blends, require a minimum of four hours of filtered to direct sunlight, April through October. As the light intensity is reduced, grass thins out. Another concern will be the surface roots, as Redwoods are shallow rooted but like lots of moisture. Your irrigation system should separate the areas under the tree from the rest of the landscape. As the area becomes shadier, it will require less water than the sunnier areas. You’re the best judge of your location but growing under Redwoods can be challenging.

Q. I want to transplant my blooming Christmas Cactus into another pot, but I’m scared to touch it. Can I move a blooming plant to another pot without shocking it?

A. It’s okay to transplant a Christmas Cactus and most other plants while they are in bloom. Actually, this is when an evergreen plant is technically dormant, as it’s not actively growing. There is no reason why you have to wait until it finishes flowering. I’d transplant it carefully as not to damage the flowers.

Christmas Cactus is also known as the Zygocactus or crab cactus because of their segmented leaves. They, along with Cyclamen, are a great red and white alternative to poinsettia during the holiday season. Zygocactus and Cyclamen are not sensitive to warm rooms, as is a Poinsettia, so the foliage doesn’t discolor quickly and they have a long blooming period.

Poinsettias and Blueberries

November 6, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I’m looking to plant several Blueberries as I’ve read they grow well in the Bay Area. However, I’ve received some conflicting information about their exposure. I’ve been told that Blueberries do nicely in a sunny location. And another opinion says, they should be in the shade by one or two o’clock in the afternoon. I’ve several areas, where I can plant the bushes. One spot gets sun from about 10:30 a.m. into the evening. In the other location, they would be in the shade by about two p.m. So, where should I plant my Blueberries?

Ans. Depending on where you live, both answers are correct. Along the coast, they grow in full sun all day, while in the San Ramon Valley, they prefer shade in the afternoon, April through October. Blueberries prefer mild temperatures and a marine influence, compared to hot, dry conditions and they don’t produce well in dark, shady areas. I’d plant your Blueberries in the second location, where they’re shaded after two o’clock and avoid the leaf burn on those really hot days. This should give you plenty of direct sunlight for a good crop of berries. I wouldn’t be concerned if a few of the leaves burn on those really, really hot days.

With today’s low chill varieties, Blueberries are a must in today’s garden. A couple of plants produce a good size crop with little effort. Bare root or packaged Blueberries will be available in January with container plants in March. Bountiful Blue and Sunshine Blue are self-pollinating. All the other varieties require a second variety that blooms at the same time for cross-pollination. Blueberries are a fabulous container plant. In the landscape, they’re the perfect companion plant to Azaleas, Rhododendrons and Camellias as they enjoy the same water, acid soil, and fertilizer. During winter months, an acidifier such as Aluminum Sulfate, GreenAll pH Adjuster or Soil Sulphur should be applied to keep the soil acid. Blueberries truly are easy and carefree to grow.

Q. Could you tell me what I need to do in order to keep my Poinsettia plants from dying? They seem to wither away so quickly each year.

Ans. Poinsettia leaves turn yellow, curl and shrivel quickly because of warm temperatures. Poinsettia plants like to be kept in a cool room, preferably under seventy degrees. They need to be kept away from heater vents, operating fireplaces and drafts, especially inside doorways as the sudden change in temperature causes problems. The flower and leaves of the Poinsettia plant collapses when the plant is excessively wet. They like to be kept uniformly moist. Before watering, stick your finger down an inch in the soil. If it feels moist to the touch then skip the watering. After watering, always dump the excess water that collects in the saucer and punch a hole in the decorative foil so the water can drain away.

Raccoon Round-up

October 9, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Last fall, we had a problem with raccoons as they tore up the lawn to feast on the grubs. I’d like to discourage the raccoons early on this year. Is there an easy way to tell if the lawn grubs have returned?

A. Grubs are immature beetles found in the ground, and are usually white in color. As the grubs mature, they begin to feed on the grass roots, killing patches of the lawn in the process. The damage is visible from late summer through the fall. The damage normally starts next to cement or a hot concrete edge and quickly spreads outwards toward the center of the lawn. The dead grass easily peels off the soil surface exposing the grubs. Grubs can still be present in undamaged grass; hence the raccoons return. There is a simple test for the presence of grubs using detergent and water. With stakes and string, mark off two by two foot squares. Mix two tablespoons of a liquid soap or detergent in a bucket of water and pour the solution evenly over the areas. I’d set up several test sites. The sites can be any area where the turf has turned brown and a normal area. Keep a close eye on the surface for the next ten to fifteen minutes. The detergent agitates the grubs forcing them to the soil surface. Typically, more than five grubs per quarter-square foot warrants treatment. The organic solution for grubs is to apply Beneficial Nematodes. Beneficial Nematodes kill all the soil insects except earthworms. They’re applied with a tank sprayer. Beneficial Nematodes done early on will rid the area of all the soil insects and force the raccoons to look elsewhere for a new food source. Another solution is Bayer Season Long Grub Control. It can be applied as early as May or June and provides grub control over an extended period of time. Both these products do not provide immediate results but takes seven to ten days for them to be effective. Unfortunately, the raccoons can do a lot damage in that time period so it’s suggested to start early with your controls.

Q. This spring we had two old Chinese Elm trees removed from our yard. I had expected that the roots would eventually die once the trees were gone, but now we have tree shoots sprouting up over twenty feet from the original tree site and in the middle of the lawn. I’ve sprayed the shoot(s) with Roundup, and that takes care of them, but shortly afterwards new shoots appears. Is there a product I can use to treat the roots so they die and dissolve?

A. Elms, Poplars, many fruit trees, and others will send up copious suckers when the main tree is cut down. Unfortunately, there is no easy solution to the problem. Spot treating the sprouts and digging those out in the turf are the only solution. It’s a war of attrition. I wish I had a more positive answer but there isn’t one.
Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, California. 94523 and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero

Apple-Nectarine Combo Tree?

September 14, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Earlier this summer, I planted a Fuji Apple and a nectarine tree together in the same hole as my front and back yards are too small. What’s going to happen when they both start to fruit?

A. I’m not sure that anything negative is going to happen when they start to fruit. That said, there are other more pressing concerns that need to be addressed before they get to that point. Small yards are a dilemma for gardeners looking to grow a variety of different types of fruits. The typical, semi-dwarf fruit tree, fifteen to eighteen feet high, with a twelve-foot spread, is much too big. The idea of planting multiple trees in a single hole is a great solution: however, the trees have to be compatible with the same watering requirements and have a similar growth pattern. Unfortunately, that is not the case with your choices, as they’re very dissimilar.

Nectarines have an umbrella shape canopy while an apple growth pattern is stiff and upright. Nectarines are pruned annually, removing fifty to sixty percent of the growth while with apples, you remove about ten or fifteen percent. As these trees mature, this combination will look very odd and awkward in the landscape. The key issue is the watering requirements. Apples tolerate frequent summer watering while nectarines do not; hence, planting under their canopies is not recommended and that’s a problem with small yards. Personally, I think there is little chance that you’ll be successful with this grouping. You’re going to have to remove one of the trees and replace it with a variety that better fits the location.

Apples, Pears and Asian Pears are best planted together. This is your best choice as you can maximize the planting space under the canopy. Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, Plumcots and Pluots are the other groupings. Planting two, three, or even four fruit trees in the same hole will work. They’re spaced no closer than two feet apart. The grouping is viewed as a single canopy with multiple trunks and each variety is pruned accordingly.

It’s important to layer the different branches of each variety so they aren’t growing into one another along with minimizing the rubbing and crossing branches and eliminating the congestion in the center of the trees. It’s critical that these trees be pruned annually as one variety may be more aggressive than another. You prevent this by limiting each variety to a certain percentage of the space, fifty, or twenty-five percent etc, depending on the number in the grouping.

Also, it’s important that you have access around the entire diameter of the canopy to prune efficiently. It’s not as difficult as it might seem when planned correctly. In addition, whatever combination you choose, select varieties with different ripening times. This allows you to space the crops out so they don’t ripen in the same week and a half. And finally, the selection at your favorite garden center is very limited now so I suggest you wait until January for the new selection of trees to arrive

Sad Sod

August 10, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. We installed a new sod lawn three years ago and it’s now in terrible shape. There are bare spots and lots of different weeds and grasses. What can we do to salvage the lawn?

A. Right now I wouldn’t worry about the undesirable grassy weeds and instead concentrate on the broadleaf weeds and the bare spots. Here is why. There are no selective herbicides for seasonal grasses in desirable turf except for Crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual problem that is not present now as it is when to seed in the fall. It will start to germinate in the next month. If you see a network of wiry brown stems, this is probably Bermuda Grass, which is often referred to as crabgrass. Turflon Ester is the recommended control for Bermuda grass in desirable turf, as the crabgrass controls are ineffective. Bermuda Grass is currently ‘greening up’ from its winter dormancy so you should wait until May or June when it’s activity growing to apply Turflon Ester. For all the other seasonal grasses you’ll have to spot treat them with Round Up or a similar product and then reseed the new bare-spots.

It might be better to live with these grasses, as it could be an endless battle in ridding the turf of them permanently. Today, I’d apply a ‘weed and feed’ type fertilizer if the turf hasn’t been fed this year; otherwise, I’d spray the area with a selective herbicide for broadleaf weeds like Dandelions. There are several products available such as Weed-B-Gon, but be careful with any product labeled ‘weed and grass killer.’ Many of them are a non-selective type herbicide and will kill the desirable along with the non-desirable grasses. If you’re not sure, ask the nursery professional for a recommendation. In about three weeks this unwanted weeds should be dead.

Next, review the irrigation system to see if that is part of the problem. The sprinklers should overlap each other one hundred percent so each section of the grass gets the same amount of water. Poor sprinkler placement or coverage is a primary cause for sections of the turf to die thus creating bare spots when the weather turns warm and windy. If you have any low spots this would be a good time to fill them in. You should tamp these areas down so the ground is firm. Now you’re ready to reseed the bare spots.

Since you planted sod, the existing grass is more than likely some type of tall fescue. Scott’s Ez Seed or any one of the many grass seed blends available should blend in nicely. You’ll need to scratch the soil first, sow the seed and then cover it with a thin layer of peat moss or soil conditioner. Depending of the temperatures, you should moisten the seed a two to three times a day until it starts to germinate. Your lawn makeover should take about seven weeks.

Tomato Hornworms & Soil for Roses

July 6, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. Where do tomato worms come from? I check my plants daily but so far I haven’t seen any.

A. The Tomato Hornworm is the larvae stage of the Hawk, Moth. It’s also known as the Sphinx or Hummingbird Moth. It over-winters in the soil as dark-brown pupae that emerge as an adult moth in the late spring. The female moth lays smooth, single, green egg(s) on the underside of the tomato leaf and her life span is about a week. Tomato Hornworms are voracious eaters, munching entire leaves, small stems, and even parts of immature fruits. They do get quite large and the horn-like structure on their posterior is where the name ‘Hornworm’ originates. After three to four weeks of feeding, they will drop to the ground and enter the soil where they change into a two-inch long pupa. Depending on the weather, there may be from one to four generations per year. While they’re most commonly associated with tomatoes, hornworms are also common pests of eggplants, peppers, and potatoes. Most likely, you’ll notice the damage before you notice the hornworms, because their color helps them blend in so well with the plant foliage. You can also look for their black droppings on the foliage and around the base of the plant. Since you haven’t seen any as yet, suggests that they may not be a problem this year. The Hornworm season runs through September and checking the plants weekly is sufficient

Q. I have several roses that are not looking their best. I was told that I could revive them by putting new topsoil down. I’d like add new soil but, do I have to remove the old soil completely first?

A. I wouldn’t recommend significantly raising the soil level to revive them as roses are very resilient plants. Instead, they should bounce back with the addition of nutrients and water. It would be okay to cover up some exposed roots but you don’t want to bury the bud union. The bud union is the location where a desired variety is budded on to a rootstock. This is a large knot near the soil line. Modern garden roses such as Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas are not growing on their own roots; hence, its important not to raise the soil level significantly. The additional soil should be cultivated around the plants. The soil microbes will then break down the organic matter and supply additional nutrients to the plant(s). Also, don’t be concerned with the surface roots, as you’ll find plenty. Roses are heavy feeders along with needing lots of moisture. Dr. Earth Rose Food is suggested as it contains the basic nutrients plus additional microbes. Monthly applications are recommended and always water your plants the day before or at least four hour before feeding and immediately afterwards. Roses are watered at least three times a week during the summer and more often when the temperatures are over ninety degrees. You should see a marked difference in your roses within six weeks.

Bloodgood Japanese Maples & Common Soil Fungus

June 7, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q. I recently purchased a red leaf Bloodgood Japanese Maple. My son says it should be planted in a shady area and it will grow to twenty feet unless it’s kept in a container. I want to plant it in a sunny location. Where should it be planted?

A. Your son is correct about the size of a Bloodgood Japanese Maple as they grow to twenty plus feet with a ten to twelve foot spread. A container does limit the ultimate height but so does an annual pruning for those planted in the landscape. However, he’s incorrect about the exposure. In the Bay Area, Japanese Maples are grown in full sun or part shade. It is typical for the red leaf maples, particularly Bloodgood, to loose their red color and turn green during the summer months. A sunny location extends the red coloring. In the fall, the Bloodgood foliage reverts to a reddish green color but they defoliate before they turn completely red. Red-leaved varieties get their color from a pigment called anthocyanin. Anthocyanin is often displayed in the fall and winter months in other plants as the green pigment, chlorophyll, breaks down. The red pigment in maples disappears with warm temperatures and long days. The initial site selection is a key in maintaining the long-term foliage color. They shouldn’t be crowded into a corner and factor in how much more the landscape around it is going to mature in the next ten years. The location should provide some protection from hot dry winds or salt carried by the afternoon marine influence. The hot dry conditions cause the leaves to burn along the margins and tips particularly in the lace-leaf varieties. Another cause of tip burn is synthetic type fertilizers. A slow release organic fertilizer or one specifically for Japanese Maples is desirable. You can protect the foliage from the hot conditions with Bonide Wilt Stop. Wilt Stop will protect the foliage from the hot conditions just as it protects plants from freezing temperatures. Now is a good time to apply it before the really hot weather arrives.

Q. I recently dug up three dead bushes and noticed the soil had a lot of white stuff mixed in with it. Is it safe to plant in that area again?

A. It is common for a white fungus type growth to develop in our clay soils that are amended with organic matter. The white stuff has a stringy texture that can be matted or it looks like its weaving it way through the soil particles. It’s Mother Nature at work breaking down or composting the chunky pieces of organic matter in the soil. There is no need to be concerned although it is a bit of a surprise or for some a shock when noticed for the first time. You can replant whenever you like without any reservations.

Chili Peppers: Good & Hot!

May 8, 2014 by Buzz Bertolero Leave a Comment

Q I’ve been reading up about Chili Peppers as I enjoy Mexican food. I’m now anxious to plant a few but there are so many varieties. Which varieties do the best in this area?

A. The popularity of Chili Peppers is increasing as more folks enjoy hot and spicy foods. Location, location, location is a key with Chili Peppers as they like warm days and nights to produce. They must have nighttime temperatures over fifty-five degrees. May is an ideal month to set out transplants or seedlings started in mid-March. In most years, the rainy season has concluded and we are warming up. Seeds started today will be ready to the open ground in eight weeks or so. If you set your transplants out to early they will not bloom. Without blossoms, you get no production. Chilis take a little time to mature. If all is well, the flower petals will drop off as the green middle part of the flower starts to swell slightly. This is the chili pepper beginning to grow. The soil preparation for peppers is the same as with any other type of summer vegetable. With our clay soil, you need to be generous with the soil amendments for adequate drainage. Peppers don’t like soggy feet. In addition, the organic type vegetable fertilizers, such as Dr. Earth are perfect for peppers. They have shallow roots so be gentle when you cultivate and to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, mulching is recommended. Also, stake your pepper plants, as they can become top heavy as the crop matures. They’re harvested by clipping them off with a pair of scissors, don’t pull; otherwise, you’ll damage the plants.

There are so many varieties because of the demand for hot, and even hotter varieties. Hence, the right variety for you is directly related to how much heat your month is ready to except. The chemical, which gives chilli pepper its heat, is called capsaicin. They also accumulate heat as they mature so they’ll be milder when they’re green and hotter as they ripen to a deep red. The hottest part of the chilli is the white flesh that attaches to the seeds to the inside of the pepper. This can be removed if you want to limit the heat.

William Scoville is credited with inventing Scoville Heat Unit Scale (SHU), which measure the pungency of Chili Peppers. Bell or sweet peppers have a zero rating. Here are a few of the hot peppers and their ratings: Jalapeno 10,000 SHU, Cayenne, 30.000 SHU, and Habanero, 100,000 SHU. For the first time, plants for one of the hottest pepper in the world, is available. The Ghost Pepper, Bhut Jolokia, is four hundred times hotter than Tabasco Sauce, 1,000,000+ SHU and this year Trinidad Scorpion will be available. This hot pepper is in at taste bud melting range of 2,000,000 SHU.

Note: Capsaicin is an irritant and key ingredient of Mace or pepper spray. It’s important to either use gloves when handling chilies or thoroughly wash hand afterwards. Anyone who has inadvertently rubbed their eyes after handling a pepper knows why.