From time to time I admit to having visited over one hundred and fifteen countries, at least once. Some of these visits were quite lengthy, while others were extremely brief and came close to not counting at all.
The shortest stop in a country on my list had to be the one in North Korea. It may have been the quickest, but with the North Korean troops watching me through a window, and the impending threat of strife around me, it was one of the more interesting stops.
It came very close to not happening at all. Let me tell you about it.
Regnibuh is our Internet handle – it’s our last name spelled backwards. And, when we travel, it really gets a workout. Barb uses it to make reservations, book tours in cities we hope to visit, and hunt for sites not always obvious in those fat travel brochures.
The gravel/sand divided by a concrete bit, in Joint Security Area also known as Panmunjom, is where the border is drawn between North Korea and South Korea. South Korea is on the left hand side of this photo.
Singapore Air was offering an attractive price for airfare, a week’s lodging, and a couple of delightful side tours while visiting its principal city – a city which we both love dearly. We discovered the package on the Internet. Day by day, visit by visit, the details of our trip were falling into place. People thousands of miles apart were typing little notes to one another confirming our journey and making room for us.
A special feature of this package was a stop along the way at any point serviced by Singapore Air. We chose Seoul. This bustling metropolis in South Korea appealed to our sense of adventure, particularly because of the impasse of almost sixty years that exists with its neighbor to the north. Here, on a narrow band of land, two nations have faced one another with the constant threat of attack for almost two generations. We’ve fought several wars since then, but this belonged to my generation. The line separating the two countries is called the demilitarized zone or DMZ. A Quonset hut sits half in the north and half in the south and marks the piece of ground where the two countries negotiated an impasse way back in the fifties. The location of this standoff is the city of Panmunjom. We had heard that visits to Panmunjom could be arranged, but we were not quite sure how. Back to the Internet. Barb found a soldier stationed in the DMZ and after a great deal of Internet communication, he volunteered to arrange a visit for us up to the front line. The trip was sponsored by the USO. We were told what to wear, yes what to wear. Jeans were not acceptable – sorry Levis. Ladies needed to avoid shorts or anything even vaguely revealing. No tennis shoes. We all needed to look proper and prosperous. Instructions were also given on how to behave and what to expect. The deal was closed. At 7 a.m. we were to arrive at the Seoul USO facilities on the agreed-upon date, present ourselves, and we would be taken by military bus to the north. We congratulated ourselves on our Internet success. The deal was we would come in from the south and walk round the “negotiating” table – this stroll would put us in North Korea for only a few steps.
Some three weeks later, on the agreed-upon morning, we left our hotel in downtown Seoul and headed toward the USO. Twenty minutes later our cab deposited us at the door in plenty of time to meet any contingencies. It took us only a few minutes to find the proper authorities, and with due respect we presented ourselves.
“Mr. and Mrs. Hubinger are here and ready to go,” we said. The soldier smiled and began to search his list. Over and over again he checked the spelling, looked at all of the possibilities, and then grim-faced, announced, “Your names are not on the reservation list.”
Some mistake? Was our soldier friend unreliable? What could possibly have gone wrong? We were dejected and apparently had no options. We were about to retreat out the door to our hotel and lick our wounds when I happened to glance at the soldier’s list. Sure enough, there it was Mr. and Mrs. Regnibuh. I explained the situation to a smiling sergeant, who graciously acknowledged,
“Well, if Mr. and Mrs. Regnibuh don’t show up, I’ll be sure that the two of you can use their seats.”
Mission accomplished – we went to North Korea – we walked around the table – and I added another country to my list.
Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2010 issue of ALIVE in Harry Hubinger’s regular Stamps in My Passport column.