Peggy Fallon

Market Fresh – Chilling Out with Style

December 4, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

In a perfect world I would spend this month leisurely baking cookies, tying tartan ribbons around the hundreds of(imaginary) jars of jam I made last summer, and writing personal notes in every single holiday card. But the reality of December is an entirely different matter. In addition to my regular work schedule, there are dozens of parties to attend, an inordinate amount of cooking and entertaining at home, and lots of time spent with friends with whom I may have lost touch during the year. Paired with endless trips to the grocery store and last-minute shopping for gifts, it’s easy to become frazzled and lose sight of what’s really important. I know. I do it every year.

An early morning excursion to the farmers’ market is my personal form of therapy, however. No nasty traffic jams or cranky shoppers at that hour. No fluorescent lights or recorded carols to raise my anxiety level. Just warm people and nature at its most beautiful, in the crisp morning air.(If the truth be told, I secretly enjoy the rainy mornings even more, when only the most discriminating shoppers show up.)

While I pick up what I’ll need for weekday meals and potlucks, I scout out the many bargains available at the market. Along with fragrant wreaths and seasonal flowers, gifts of good taste abound. Our farmers’ market carries much more than perishable produce; there is locally produced extra virgin olive oil, vinegars, artisan jams and preserves, and glistening jars of sun-dried tomatoes. All make deliciously practical gifts.

As I linger over all the little bags of freshly dried fruits and nuts at the market, my mind always wanders back to the kitchen. Gifts from the kitchen show you care—but procrastinators like us don’t have much time for starting a new project mid-December. Then my mind turns to chocolate bark. Homemade candy in less than an hour. No thermometers, no marble slabs, no sugar that refused to caramelize. Easy breezy.

Face it: this is a chocolate-coated month. There is simply no way around it. But joining the masses doesn’t mean you can’t sneak a few healthy ingredients into the mix. And it’s the quality of the ingredients that give this recipe the edge.

Good chocolate abounds in the Bay Area, and buying in bulk makes it affordable. As far as all the bumpy little goodies that lend personality and flavor to your bark, shopping at the farmers’ market ensures the nuts are part of this year’s crop—not something recently liberated from a warehouse freezer—and the dried fruit is consistently plump and moist.

Packaging is also key: I opt to pack homemade bark in either clear cellophane bags tied with red-and-white bakers’ twine, or plain white Chinese takeout boxes. (Most restaurant supply stores sell them in large plastic sleeves for next-to-nothing.) Or, when I find small tins that aren’t festooned with crazy caricatures of snowmen and reindeer with red noses, I stock up on them. If you’re a thrift shop or flea market kind of person, you can usually find great prices on single china plates—so pretty to pile a mound of bark on top, and wrap in clear cellophane with a festive bow.

A custom-made gift has never been simpler.

Chocolate Bark with California Nuts and Fruit

2/3 cup unsalted California slivered almonds, coarsely chopped walnuts, or pistachios
1 to 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt, to taste
1 cup dried California fruit, such as chopped apricots or figs, cherries, or dark or golden raisins
1 pound semisweet or other favorite chocolate, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the nuts in a pan and bake, stirring once or twice, until just golden and fragrant, 7 to 9 minutes for almonds or walnuts; or 5 to 7 minutes for pistachios. Sprinkle with salt and toss gently to coat. Set aside to cool.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. In a heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water, add about two-thirds of the chopped chocolate. Cook over low heat just until melted. Remove the bowl and add the remaining chocolate; stir gently with a rubber spatula until melted and smooth.
Pour the warm chocolate onto the parchment paper and spread into a rectangle that roughly measures13-by-9-inches. Working quickly so the chocolate doesn’t set, scatter the salted nuts and dried fruit evenly over the top; then gently tap the baking sheet on a counter to remove any air bubbles and allow the toppings to sink into the chocolate slightly. Refrigerate until firm, at least 15 minutes. Break the bark into irregularly shaped pieces. Serve at once, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 1/2 pounds—enough for 3 generous gifts.

Some thoughts on making your bark as good as your bite:

Most people agree that chopping chocolate can be tedious, but it makes the whole melting process go such much faster and efficiently, you really don’t want to take a shortcut here. I find a serrated bread knife makes the job a little easier.
For a change, top the bark with chopped crystallized ginger and/or candied orange zest.
Or add a little zip to the chocolate by stirring in a teaspoon or two of chipotle or other chili powder and a generous pinch of ground cinnamon
For those who choose to gild the lily, melt a little white chocolate and drizzle it over the completed bark. A holiday homage to Jackson Pollock.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Giving Thanks

November 6, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

The holiday season kicks into full force this month, commencing with a very special meal on Thursday, November 24. Since Thanksgiving dinner is designed to showcase nature’s bounty, shopping at the farmers’ market makes more sense than ever. It is also a very important way to give thanks to the people who grow the food we eat throughout the year.

Free from the glare of fluorescent lights, and harried hosts pushing cumbersome shopping carts through crowded supermarket aisles, the farmers’ market offers a plentiful selection of pumpkins and other winter squash for soup; a gamut of greens for salads; sweet potatoes to bake; russet potatoes to mash; artisan breads for homemade stuffing; Brussels sprouts, green beans, onions, and plenty of other seasonal veggies for side dishes; apples for pie; and flowers for the table. It’s all right there — in the crisp November air.

A trio of pies traditionally ends the Thanksgiving meal at my house: there’s always pumpkin, apple, and something nutty. Last year I decided to forgo the cloying sweetness of pecan pie and instead spotlight the new crop of locally grown walnuts. How did it go? As the last crumb was devoured, we unanimously agreed there is no reason to ever turn back. The pleasant bite of toasted California walnuts, paired with an optional glug of all-American bourbon, offsets the richness of the filling. (If you prefer to omit the bourbon for any reason, just increase the vanilla to 2 teaspoons.) This pie is just one more reason to be thankful we ended up living in California.

California Walnut Pie

Prepared dough for a single-crust pie, chilled
2 heaping cups shelled California walnut halves and pieces (about 9 ounces)
3 large eggs
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons bourbon (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt

Make-Ahead Whipped Cream (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into circle about 13-inches in diameter. Ease the dough into a 9-inch pie pan and form a decorative border as desired. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until firm.
Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until fragrant and lightly toasted, 7 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Carefully position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and place a heavy baking sheet on the rack. Increase the oven temperature to 425 degrees.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs until well blended. Press the brown sugar through a sieve into the bowl (to ensure there will be no lumps). Whisk in the corn syrup, melted butter, bourbon, vanilla, and salt until combined.
Here is where you make a choice: If you just want a delicious pie and don’t care if it looks a tiny bit homely, coarsely chop all the toasted walnuts now and be done with it. Scatter the nuts over the bottom of the chilled pie shell and skip to Step 7. But if it’s important for you to create a photo-worthy Martha-kind-of-pie, proceed to Step 6.
To determine how many walnut halves are needed to decorate the top of the pie, draw a 9-inch circle on a piece of paper; then arrange enough toasted walnut halves in concentric circles to fill it. Gather up these nuts and set aside. Coarsely chop all the remaining walnut halves and pieces and scatter them over the bottom of the chilled pie shell. Arrange the reserved walnut halves over the top decoratively in concentric circles.
Carefully pour the filling into the pie shell. If needed, re-position any walnut halves that have floated out of place. Place the pie pan directly on the hot baking sheet in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake until the filling is puffed around the edges and a knife inserted 1-inch from the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes longer. Cool completely on a wire rack. If made in advance, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Serve at room temperature, cut into wedges, with whipped cream. Makes one 9-inch pie, to serve 8 to 12.

On a day like Thanksgiving, any recipe that doesn’t require last-minute fussing in the kitchen always catches my eye—especially when it’s for the end of the meal. By the time I’m ready to serve dessert, I’d rather be holding a wine glass than a hand mixer.

I’ve never been a fan of those artificially flavored whipped toppings that come in a tub or an aerosol can; and I think using them at Thanksgiving should be a crime. But making freshly whipped cream was just one more last-minute thing to add to my “to do” list. For years I’ve tried quick-fixes to stabilize cream so it can be whipped in advance; tricks like adding a bit of nonfat dry milk powder or a touch of unflavored gelatin. I was never overly impressed with the results—until I found this technique in The Food of Campanile: Recipes from the Famed Los Angeles Restaurant. Leave it to renowned chef Nancy Silverton to finally crack the whipped cream code by adding crème fraîche. Brilliant. It’s creamy, rich, and silky—and adds a pleasant yet almost imperceptible tang.

Here are 3 more of my own tips for making perfect whipped cream:

Always start with pasteurized heavy cream—not the ultra-pasteurized stuff a lot of supermarkets try to pass off as the real thing. The latter may have a much longer shelf-life (which is why grocers love it), but it takes forever to whip, and ends up tasting vaguely of plastic. Go figure.
If you have room in the refrigerator or freezer, by all means chill the mixing bowl and the beater(s) for at least 10 minutes before you begin. When everything is cold, the whipping process is significantly easier.
Always use pure vanilla extract. Anything less is a travesty.

Make-Ahead Whipped Cream

1 cup heavy whipping cream, well chilled
1 or 2 tablespoons confectioner’s (powdered) sugar, to taste
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

In a large bowl, beat together the cream, sugar, and vanilla with a hand-held electric mixer on Low speed until slightly thickened. Increase the speed to Medium-High and beat until fluffy, stopping just before the cream is firm enough to hold soft peaks. Finish whipping the cream by hand, gently whisking in the crème fraîche. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Just before serving, whisk again briefly to aerate the mixture.

Market Fresh – Heading for Fall

October 1, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

I always savor the gentle change of seasons, but the transition from summer to autumn may be my favorite of all. Crisp mornings, shorter days, and cozy evenings at home rekindle my nesting instinct. The backyard grill enjoys a temporary reprieve while soups and stews simmer in the kitchen. There is a wreath on the front door; a family of big bumpy pumpkins and other winter squash arranged on the porch; and crackling flames flicker in the fireplace. Providing I avoid the glitter-laden department stores already broadcasting carols on a continuous loop, this is also an ideal time to reflect upon the year—both the months that have passed, and the months ahead.

This natural evolution is apparent at the farmers’ market, as well, where the vibrant colors of summer produce are replaced by soft golden hues that mimic the leaves of autumn.

It seems friends gravitate toward each other more than ever this month, as our calendars begin to fill with gatherings of every variety. Halloween holds a special place in my heart, along with plenty of others who refuse to give kids a monopoly on this spooky/fun night.

In the sweet spirit of Halloween—and with more than a passing nod to the upcoming Day of the Dead—consider casting a spell with a deep dark chocolate fondue that’s fragrant with classic Mexican flavors—not the least of which is a devilish kick from chipotle chile. Serve this to your friends and family, and don’t be surprised when boys and ghouls of all ages bypass that platter of pumpkin cupcakes with garish orange frosting.
There is only a ghost of a chance you’ll encounter someone who expresses disappointment when faced with a mini-cauldron of silky chocolate, but an inspired selection of dippers will elevate this fondue to a whole other level. Oh sure, you can serve it with the usual lineup of suspects like banana chunks, pineapple spears, marshmallows, biscotti, donut holes, pretzels, or even warm flour tortillas. But a quick visit to the farmers’ market will give you a bewitching—and dare I add healthy?—roundup of seasonal dippers to assuage any chocolate-covered guilt guests might feel at consuming such an indulgence.

Haunt the farmers’ market and you may come across some late-season strawberries—always an extremely popular choice for dipping. Other sure-fire hits include:

Wedges of crisp apples and juicy pears (leave the skins on, so guests can spot different varieties)
Chunks of peeled cantaloupe and honeydew melon
Kiwi fruit, peeled and cut into thick slices
Fuyu persimmons, cut into chunky wedges
Seedless grapes
Fresh and/or dried figs and mango
Dried apricots
Pitted dates
California almonds and walnuts

If you don’t own a fondue set, just serve this directly from a nice-looking saucepan or a heatproof bowl, and offer bamboo skewers instead of long-handled forks.

Mexican Hot Chocolate Fondue

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 cup whole milk
3 cinnamon sticks (each about 3-inches long)*
1 pound bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and cinnamon sticks. Cook over medium-low heat, watching carefully, until small bubbles appear around the edges of the pan. Reduce the heat to low and cook 5 minutes longer. Carefully remove the cinnamon sticks and discard, or reserve for another use.
Gradually add the chocolate to the cinnamon-infused cream mixture and cook, stirring, until melted and smooth. Stir in the espresso powder, chipotle powder, and vanilla and continue cooking over low heat for 1 minute longer. Transfer to a fondue pot and serve warm, not hot. Makes about 3 cups, to serve 8 to 10.

*Cinnamon sticks infuse the cream with a subtle yet distinctive undercurrent of flavor; but if you have none on hand, simply add 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon along with the espresso and chile powders.

Adapted from Great Party Fondues by Peggy Fallon (John Wiley & Sons, 2008)
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

A Taste of the Southwest

September 8, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

I used to think the word “zucchini” was fun to say until I learned its Spanish equivalent, “calabacitas.” The very sound of it (calla-ba-SEE-tas!) makes me want to grab my maracas and clench a rose between my teeth.
Although it literally translates to “little squash,” calabacitas is mostly used to describe a traditional Southwestern vegetable mélange starringnone other than the humble squash, with other seasonal veggies like corn and peppers featured in supporting roles.A sure-fire hit.

This month Francophiles may be consumed with making ratatouille, that classic ode to late summer, but quick-cooking calabacitas also deserves a place in yourCalifornia kitchen.
Over the past few months I’ve taught a series of cooking classes for kids around the country, and I must say I’ve converted a significant number of young veggie-phobes with this simple dish. The appeal may begin tentatively with its lyrical name, but the uncomplicated, fresh taste of summer always seals the deal.

September is a glorious month at the farmers’ market, with plenty to stir the senses. There are great deals on end-of-season vegetables and fruits at the peak of perfection—a veritable double-feature with a bonus sneak-preview of fall’s coming attractions.

This is a great all-round veggie/side dish, but don’t overlook its potential as a filling for quesadillas or omelets—all by itself, or paired with your favorite cheese.Monterey jack (with or without hot peppers), queso fresco, and California goat cheese are all good choices.
Some cooks add a smattering of diced tomatoes, minced garlic, ground cumin, chopped oregano, or a squeeze of fresh lime juice to the mix.
To transform calabacitas into a more substantial meal, stir in cooked black beans, rice, or bite-size bits of grilled chicken, beef, or pork. Serve with a big green salad, a bowl of homemade salsa, and a stack of warm tortillas.
If you feel the urge to garnish, coarsely chopped cilantro and/or green onions should do the trick.

Plain or fancy, calabacitas is always muy bueno.

Calabacitas

2 ears fresh corn, husks and silk discarded
2 zucchini, sliced
2 yellow crookneck or other summer squash, sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch squares
1 poblano* or Anaheim chile pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch squares
2 tablespoons California olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut off the stem end from one ear of corn. Hold it upright, stem-end firmly planted in the bottom of a large bowl or on a rimmed baking sheet. Use a large sharp knife to cut downward all around the cob to remove the kernels; then repeat the process, this time pressing the dull side of the knife downward around the cob to release its milky juices. (The bowl will capture any flying kernels, and contain the juices.) Discard the cob and repeat with the remaining ear of corn.
In a large bowl, combine the corn and its juices, the zucchini, yellow squash, bell pepper, and chile pepper. Toss gently to mix.
Warm a wok or large skillet over medium heat. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of the oil, swirling the pan to coat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the onion to a large serving bowl and keep warm.
Increase the heat to medium-high and drizzle in the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Working in batches as needed, add thevegetable mixture and cook without crowding, stirring and tossing, 3 to 5 minutes, or until crisp-tender. Seasonlightly with salt and pepper and add to the cooked onions. Repeat cooking the remaining vegetables in the same manner. Gently toss all the cooked vegetables with the onion and serve at once. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

*Poblano chiles are sometimes called pasilla chiles
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.

Calling all Cooks!
Looking to jazz up your recipe repertoire for the holidays? Check out Peggy Fallon’s “Elegant Holiday Appetizers” class at Draeger’s Blackhawk store Wednesday evening, October 26. For registration information, go to www.draegerscookingschool.com or call 1-800-642-9463.

Market Fresh: Shopping with a Purpose

August 4, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Recently I spent a week in Austin, Texas, where I attended the annual conference of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. For a taste of local color and a bit of homespun humor, our keynote speaker was Jim Hightower, a populist who prides himself on watching over “The Powers That Be on behalf of the Powers That Ought To Be.” Most importantly, he’s a longtime advocate of family farming, organic growing, and local eating. Or, as he puts it, “putting the culture back in agriculture.”

Although Austin is the home of a major upscale grocery chain’s flagship store, Hightower dismisses it as more of a tourist-attraction than a food source. Twice elected Texas Agriculture Commissioner, Hightower knows it’s somewhere between difficult and impossible for a local farmer to get his products placed in one of these giant supermarkets. Instead, he and his family buy directly from their neighboring farmers, as well as those who sell at Austin’s weekly downtown farmers’ market.

Hightower stressed that the pricey merchandise you see in supermarkets may indeed be “organic” when labeled as such, but is still often imported from other states and sometimes even other countries. He knows that agribusiness corporations—those same folks responsible for bringing us genetically-engineered “fresh” tomatoes year ‘round, and packaged “guacamole” that contains no avocado—have been known to use their substantial political clout (i.e., dollars) to influence the definition of words like “organic.” So when Hightower passes by a supermarket produce display, he takes the organic moniker with a grain of salt. Instead, he looks for descriptors like “sustainable” and “local,” which carry far more value for the consumer. And he finds those labels rarely, if ever.

I think you see where I’m going with this. California is obviously ahead of much of the country when it comes to consumer affairs, but the wise shopper will always keep these factors in mind.

And while I’m on the subject, I defy anyone to leave the Danville farmers’ market empty handed this month. The kaleidoscope of colors and intoxicating aromas seduce even the most miserly among us. Even if you harbor a deep-seated aversion to cooking, you can’t help but succumb to the charms of summer’s bounty, as so much of it requires little or no time in the kitchen. Never underestimate the power of a vine-ripened tomato sandwich, fat and fragrant strawberries, or a juicy nectarine eaten out of hand.

Also remember that shopping at the farmers’ market ensures the food you buy has been grown locally and freshly harvested at the peak of ripeness; and that the money you spend there goes directly to the people who grow the food we eat. Oh, and need I mention everything tastes better?

Here’s a Spanish-inspired sauce that makes a colorful and remarkably tasty dip for summer crudités or prawns, especially when served outdoors on a warm evening. Or simply spoon a large dollop of it alongside anything that’s grilled—vegetables chicken, lamb, or fish. It is quickly made from pantry items you may already have on hand; but it’s the locally-grown vine-ripened tomatoes that send it over the top.

ROMESCO SAUCE

1/2 cup whole natural (skin-on) California almonds
2 vine-ripened plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
3 large garlic cloves
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
a heaping 1/2 cup (about 4 ounces) sliced drained piquillo peppers or other bottled roasted red peppers
1/3 cup California extra virgin olive oil
3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/8 teaspoon chipotle chile powder, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Spread out the almonds on a small baking sheet. Gently squeeze the tomato to remove most of the seeds and set cut-sides down on the sheet. Add 2 of the garlic cloves in their skins. Bake for about 10 minutes, turning the garlic and stirring the nuts once, until the almonds are very lightly browned when broken open. Place the nuts in a blender or food processor. Peel the roasted garlic and add it along with the tomato halves.
In a small dry skillet, toast the cumin seeds over medium heat, shaking the pan from time to time, until they darken slightly and smell fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add to the blender. Mince the remaining garlic clove and add that as well. Add the piquillo peppers, olive oil, 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice, the smoked paprika, chipotle chile, salt, and 1/4 cup of water. Pulse the machine on and off several times, then puree for 1 to 2 minutes until the sauce is smooth. Taste, and add up to 1 more tablespoon of lemon juice if you think it’s needed. If the dip thickens upon standing, thin with a little more water.
Transfer to a bowl and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Makes about 11/2 cups, to serve 6 to 8.

Adapted from Great Party Dips by Peggy Fallon (John Wiley & Sons 2009)

Market Fresh – Spicing Up Summer

July 10, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Seriously. Is any other vegetable as much fun to eat as corn on the cob? It’s also warm, sweet and slightly crunchy, with a preferred manner of eating that defies every rule of etiquette. But even when the kernels are taken off the cob, corn still reigns supreme as one of America’s favorite veggies. Ask any kid.

It’s pretty common knowledge that corn and tomatoes are the two summer vegetables that simply can’t be faked. Unless you hit a farm stand or grow your own, the only way to ensure quality is to shop at the farmers’ market.

While there, remember that July is prime time for homemade salsa. Be sure to stock up as this salsa, dotted with roasted sweet corn, is a welcome diversion from the classic tomato-based variety. The recipe is also quite forgiving; so vary the ingredients to suit your taste. (A whiff of finely minced garlic, chopped fresh cilantro, or creamy cubes of diced avocado would be right at home here.) Serve Roasted Corn Salsa as an appetizer with tortilla chips; or as a condiment with scrambled eggs, quesadillas, or grilled meat or fish.

Roasted Corn Salsa with Poblano and Lime

Poblano chiles are usually rather mild, but some mavericks can be surprisingly hot. To err on the safe side, taste the roasted peppers before adding the full amount to the salsa.

2 fresh poblano chile peppers
Kernels from 4 ears of farm-fresh corn (about 2 cups)
1 tablespoon California olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 vine-ripened tomato, seeded and chopped
1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced or chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Place the peppers on a broiler pan or small baking sheet and broil as close to the heat as possible, turning with tongs, until charred all over, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame, turning, until charred, about 5 minutes.) Seal the peppers in a paper bag and let steam for at least 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle. Peel and/or rub off as much of the blackened skin as possible. (It’s okay if small bits of it remain.) Cut the peppers open and discard the stems and seeds. Finely dice the poblanos.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the corn kernels with the oil to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread out the corn into an even layer and bake, stirring once or twice, until some of the kernels are lightly browned at the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Scrape into a medium bowl and let cool slightly.
Add the diced poblanos, tomato, onion, lime juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss gently to mix.
Transfer to a bowl and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Corny Advice

There are dozens of varieties of corn, each of which differs according to sweetness and tenderness. Which is best for you? For the definitive answers, simply ask the grower who is selling it. He or she has invested a lot of love in this crop, and will happily share their passion.
The minute corn is picked, its natural sugars immediately begin to convert to starch. For the best possible flavor, serve corn the same day you purchase it.
Avoid buying pre-shucked corn, as it is difficult to determine how long ago it was picked. Instead, look for tightly closed, plump green husks with fresh-looking cuts at their stems. The golden-brownish silk at the very top of the ear should feel slightly sticky.
Don’t shuck corn until you’re ready to use it. To remove the husks, peel down with a firm tug–and listen for that squeak of freshness. Pull off as many of the fine silks as you can, then wipe off the remaining threads of silk with a damp towel.
Grilled corn on the cob is a little bit smoky and totally irresistible. For a deliciously messy change of pace, brush shucked ears of corn with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill, turning, until lightly browned all over. Remove to a cutting board or rimmed baking sheet and immediately brush each ear all over with 2 to 3 tablespoons of mayonnaise and sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan cheese to cover. (For added pizazz, first season that mayonnaise with a bit of finely minced garlic, a squeeze of lime juice, some chopped fresh basil, or a generous pinch of chipotle chile powder.) Yum.
Removing the kernels from long ears of corn can be problematic, if not dangerous. The tapered ears are wobbly and impossible to keep in place; and the kernel trajectory as you cut can be downright frustrating. A little bit of prep work will make the job a snap: Place a small cutting board in the middle of a rimmed baking sheet. Cut each shucked ear of corn in half crosswise. Working one at a time, carefully hold the top of the cob with your fingers and firmly place the cut (flat) end of the ear on the cutting board. To remove the kernels, use a large, sharp knife to cut downward with a gentle sawing motion. The ears remain more stable this way, and the baking sheet will catch any flying kernels. Add those flavorful milky juices to whatever you’re cooking; and save those naked cobs to flavor soup stock.
When corn is fresh and sweet, it requires very little cooking. (In fact, it can even be eaten raw.) If you find yourself with an extra ear or two in the vegetable drawer, consider removing the kernels and adding them to a salad. Other fitting final resting places include pancakes or waffles, polenta, pasta, and any sort of veggie stir-fry.
“Sex is good,“ says Garrison Keillor, “but not as good as fresh, sweet corn.”

Celebrating Apricot Season

June 7, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

The farmers’ market is an ever-changing garden of sensual delights. Between the rainbow of berries available this month and juicy cantaloupes, apricots, peaches, and nectarines, the aromas wafting through the air are utterly intoxicating. We’ll continue to be seduced by many of these fruits throughout the summer, but apricot season is short but sweet…and a uniquely California phenomenon not to be missed.

Anyone who has ever purchased an apricot at the supermarket has probably already learned an expensive lesson: don’t bother. Well, okay, if you’re fortunate enough to find fruits that are organically- and locally-grown they may indeed taste fine, but you will surely pay a premium for the rarity. This is yet another time when shopping at the farmers’ market is the only logical choice.

In order for apricots to develop flavor and texture they need to ripen on the tree. Unfortunately the tree-ripening process also leaves them soft and far too fragile to ship without suffering damage from bruising. This may not sound like a problem for locavores, but many of the apricot orchards that once blessed California have been replaced by housing developments and office parks, seriously reducing sources for tree-ripened fruit. Due to increased land values apricot growers who held their ground and stayed in business now must often rely on selling to large commercial canners, jam-producers, and other fruit preservers in order to remain solvent.

To appease demand from consumers throughout the United States, scientists thought the answer was to develop bruise-resistant apricot varieties designed to look quite glamorous for weeks at a time and withstand all sorts of abuse during transit to supermarkets. Too good to be true? You bet. One bite and you’ll know you’ve been had. It’s frightening to think there is an entire generation that assumes this is how apricots should taste. If you want to experience a real California apricot that isn’t mealy or sour or flavorless—and there’s no apricot tree in your own backyard—you simply have to buy them directly from a grower. And the best place to do that is at your local farmers’ market.

When you first encounter a golden pile of tree-ripened apricots at the market, no doubt you’ll immediately want to eat your fill out-of-hand; but be sure to buy a few extra for the following updated American classic recipe.

If in the past you have been traumatized by cloyingly sweet upside-down cakes that showcase thin rings of canned pineapple and iridescent maraschino cherries, set aside your prejudice and give this one a try. Baked in a cast iron skillet for a touch of nostalgia(and a lot of soul), with juicy stone fruits, a tender crumb from buttermilk, and the subtle crunch of cornmeal, this cake is lovely all by its lonesome—but even better when accompanied by a dollop of crème fraîche or softly whipped cream.

APRICOT-CHERRY UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
with Toasted Almonds

Good news! Apricots do not need to be peeled. Right before using, rinse them under cold water and pat dry. To halve and pit an apricot, use a small, sharp knife to cut along the visible seam that goes all around the fruit; then twist the halves gently in opposite directions, pull apart, and use the tip of the knife to remove the pit.

1/3 cup California sliced almonds
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
10 to 12 tree-ripened apricots, 2- to 2 1/2 inches in diameter (about 1 1/2 pounds total), halved and pitted
10 to 12 tree-ripened Bing cherries, halved and pitted
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup yellow cornmeal or instant polenta
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
3/4 cup buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the almonds in a small baking pan and bake, stirring once or twice, until just golden and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Set aside to cool. Do not turn off the oven.
In a 10-inch well-seasoned cast-iron skillet*, melt the half-stick (4 tablespoons) of the butter over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the butter. Cook without stirring for 3 minutes. (It’s okay if not all of the sugar has melted.) Remove the skillet from the heat.
Place each cherry half, cut-side down, into the center cavity of each apricot half. Carefully arrange the apricot halves, cherry-side down, in concentric circles in the skillet, covering as much of the surface as possible. Scatter the toasted almonds in the spaces between the apricots.
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; whisk gently to blend.
Using an electric mixer on medium-high, beat the remaining 1 stick (8 tablespoons) of butter with the granulated sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Mix in the vanilla and almond extracts. With the mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with the buttermilk in 2 additions (beginning and ending with the flour mixture) and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Mix until just blended.
Spoon large dollops of the batter into the skillet, taking care not to disturb the fruit and nuts. Gently smooth the top with a spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven until the cake is golden on top and the center springs back when lightly touched, about 45 minutes. Cool in the skillet for 20 minutes on a wire rack.
Place a serving plate upside down on top of the skillet and, using pot holders to hold the plate and skillet together tightly, invert the cake onto the plate. Use a rubber spatula to scrape off any of the syrup that may remain in the skillet and drizzle it over the cake. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. This cake is best eaten the same day it is made, but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days…if it lasts that long. Serves 8.

* ‘Don’t own a cast-iron skillet? You should really get one; but I’ll save that lecture for another day. For now, you can substitute another heavy nonstick skillet that is at least 2 inches deep. If that skillet is not oven-proof, wrap the plastic handle securely in a double-thickness of aluminum foil before baking the cake.

May at the Market

May 8, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Along with blue skies and all the sweet floral fragrances in the air, May kicks off a season to gather with friends and family—on Mother’s Day, Memorial Day, and for all the inevitable bridal showers and graduation parties soon to follow. There’s no better time than now to scope out the farmers’ market for entertaining ideas. Spring greens, tender young veggies, juicy-sweet berries, and early stone fruits abound.

As long as we still experience some chilly evenings, I like to make this French country-style dessert using fresh cherries. Warm and comforting, clafoutis (pronounced claw-foo-TEE) is simply seasonal fruit baked with a puffy, custardy batter on top. It’s also very easy to make, and, if the truth be told, a really fun word to say.

Feel free to substitute other fruits as they become available: figs, apricots, peaches, plums, grapes, and pears all work nicely. In France clafoutisis traditionally made with unpitted cherries, but living in amore litigious society has convinced me that pitting them is a better idea.

I’m a big fan of an inexpensive gadget reminiscent of a hand-held paper punch. It is designed to pit cherries (as well as olives) by pressing a plunger through the center of the fruit. Lacking one of these little gizmos, use a small, sharp knife to cut all around the cherry, beginning and ending at the stem area. Twist to separate the two halves, and use the tip of the knife to flick out the pit. Whichever method you use, it’s always best to work over a bowl to catch all those precious cherry juices, so you can add them to the batter for added flavor. To avoid staining your hands, wear protective gloves throughout the procedure…though many of us have learned to sport those pink stains with pride.

Cherry & Almond Clafoutis
3 cups farm-fresh cherries (about 1 lb.), stemmed and pitted
2 tablespoons kirsch (cherry brandy) or other brandy
1/3 cup sliced California almonds
1/2 tablespoon butter, softened; plus 1 tablespoon cold butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 cup granulated sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
3 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon pure almond extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
Confectioners’ (powdered) sugar and/or crème fraîcheor vanilla ice cream

In a bowl, toss the cherries with the kirsch. Set them aside to macerate, tossing periodically, for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Scatter the almonds on a baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until barely golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside. Increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Grease a 10- to 11-inch pie, quiche, or other shallow round baking dish with the 1/2 tablespoon of butter; then dust the bottom with about 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl, if using a hand mixer), mix together the eggs, the 1/4 cup granulated sugar, the milk, cream, almond extract, and salt until blended. With the machine running on Low, gradually mix in the flour. Increase the speed to Medium and mix for 5 minutes to aerate the batter. Drain the cherries and set aside, then mix the kirsch and accumulated cherry juices into the batter.
Pour about 1/2 cup of the batter into the prepared baking dish. Scatter the drained cherries evenly over the bottom of the dish, then carefully pour the remaining batter over the top. Bake for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds and about 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar. Dot the surface with the cold butter pieces. Continue bakinguntil the clafoutis is nicely puffed and golden, and a toothpick inserted into the center shows no evidence of uncooked egg, 30 to 40 minutes.
Transfer to a rack and let cool for 20-30 minutes. (The clafoutis will sink slightly as it cools.) Serve warm or at room temperature, spooned onto individual dessert plates. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if you like, or accompany with a dollop of crème fraîche or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Serves 6.

Market Fresh – Peas Please

April 12, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Spring is edging its way into our farmers’ market, with truckloads of tender cool-weather crops like asparagus, artichokes, fava beans, crunchy celery, peas-in-the-pod, and super-sweet sugar snap peas. Fragrant strawberries are coming into their own, followed closely by chubby little cherries. This is the time of year when you don’t want to risk sleeping in on a Saturday morning, for you never know which new crop may debut at the farmers’ market.

Peas are something we tend to take for granted year ‘round, for who among us doesn’t have a bag or two stashed away in the freezer for emergencies? One taste of farm-fresh peas, however, and you’ll know why this vegetable is considered such a staple: all year ‘round, we try to recreate the incomparable flavor now available right at our fingertips. Sure, there is a bit of labor involved when you buy peas-in-the pod, but shelling them is a great job for kids (dare I say “fun”?) and a not-so-unpleasant, mindless task for adults while doing things like watching television. Just be sure to buy many more than you think you’ll need—during the shelling process, raw peas tend to become a popular snack food.

Let’s celebrate Spring 2011 with a pasta salad! Not those ubiquitous wiggly noodles drowning in bottled dressing, but a sophisticated little number with farm-fresh veggies and herbs. Its main ingredient is Israeli couscous—sometimes called pearl couscous because of its color and shape. It may sound exotic, but these tiny balls of baked semolina pasta are widely available. (Do not confuse it with the North African/Moroccan-style couscous, which is different in just about every way.) Look for Israeli couscous in boxes or plastic bags, usually sold in the same aisle as rice and other grains .It holds its shape beautifully during cooking, which makes it popular with children.
This recipe makes a versatile side dish, and something unique to bring to a potluck. As the entree for a casual dinner, consider topping each portion with a piece of grilled wild salmon fillet.

Toasted Couscous Salad with Spring Veggies

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
juice of 1 lemon
1
garlic clove, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon California extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh mint leaves
12 ounces Israeli couscous (about 2 1/4 cups)
1 3/4cups homemade chicken or vegetable stock, or 1 (14-ounce) can of low-sodium broth
1 cup water
1 pound thin asparagus spears, tough ends trimmed away, cut diagonally into 3/4-inch pieces
1 pound farm-fresh English peas-in-the-pod, shelled (about 1 cup)
8 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces
2 or 3 green onions (scallions), white and light green parts only, thinly sliced diagonally
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano or other hard dry cheese

To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Whisk in 1/3 cup of the oil in a slow steady stream. Stir in the chives and mint; set aside.
In large, heavy saucepan, heat the 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the couscous and toast, stirring frequently, until most of the couscous is golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock, water, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt; increase the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender yet still firm to the bite, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.
Stir the vinaigrette to mix in the herbs; then add 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette to the couscous, tossing gently to coat. Set aside, uncovered, to cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet. Add the asparagus and shelled peas and season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until bright green and just crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar-snap peas and green onions. Transfer the vegetables to large bowl.
Add the couscous to the bowl and drizzle in the remaining vinaigrette. Add the cheese and toss gently to coat. Taste, adding salt and pepper if needed. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Serves 6.

Minding Your Peas and Q’s

There are basically two kinds of peas: English peas (aka common garden peas) that must be shelled to eat the “seeds” inside; and snow peas and sugar snap peas, which have edible pods. Sugar snap peas are plump; while snow peas—a favorite in Chinese cuisine—are flat.
Like corn, the sugars contained in peas convert to starch shortly after harvesting, so it’s best to buy them fresh at the farmers’ market and cook them as soon as possible.
Regardless of which variety you buy, always check out the packaging: look for plump, glossy green pods, crisp and free of blemishes.
Some sugar snap peas have a tough string running along the length of the pod. To remove it, snap off the leaf end and pull down on the string.

5 Good Reasons to Shop at the Farmers’ Market

Danville is a certified farmers’ market, which means it’s the real deal—a place where local growers sell products directly to the public.
Farmers’ markets give you access to produce picked at the peak of ripeness. There is simply no comparison in nutritional value, flavor, and texture to produce grown thousands of miles away.
Elimination of packing, shipping, and wholesale costs means both the grower and the consumer can save money.
Walking, biking, or carpooling to your local farmers’ market can help reduce carbon dioxide emissions. Bringing your own shopping bags to the market helps reduce waste in landfills.
When you buy locally, your dollars stay in your community.

March Means Green…and Lots of It

March 15, 2011 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

March delivers just enough springtime to whet our appetites. Along with chilly evenings and the occasional rainy day, we are also treated to flashes of sunshine, emerald-colored hills, and colorful, sprightly flowers. At the farmers’ market tender spring vegetables like asparagus, artichokes, and peas come on strong, pushing aside winter’s broccoli and Brussels sprouts. I like to celebrate the change of season by giving these fresh young debutantes the starring role at dinner.

To my way of thinking there is no better vehicle for this than risotto—the original fast food, made slowly.Small portions make a memorable first course, but when accompanied by a crisp salad and crusty artisan bread, you’ve got yourself a perfectly satisfying meatless dinner. I love risotto’s romantic quality, especially the relaxed pace of preparation—leisurely stirringthe pot in a cozy kitchen, transforming a few simple ingredients into a four-star meal in a matter of minutes. No wonder this classic rice dish is so popular: it’s economical, filling, and utterly delicious.

Look around the farmers’ market and you’ll notice that vegetables that come into season at the same time generally taste good together. (Mother Nature is one clever gal.) So play around with the mix here to suit your fancy. Shelled, blanched and peeled fava beans; green onions; sautéed leeks; or tiny artichokes— trimmed, halved, and steamed until tender—make other winning additions. With or without them, however, this risotto contains enough green to make it a viable alternative to corned beef & cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day. (I’m Irish, so I can say that.)

When you set up your mise en place in advance, this dish comes together effortlessly…which I view as a good opportunity to sip wine as I cook.Go ahead and double the recipe if needed. The cooking time will remain about the same if you just use a larger pot—like a Dutch oven or a wide, heavy-bottomed sauté pan.

Risotto with Spring Vegetables

1 pound farm-fresh asparagus
1 tablespoon California olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 cup shelled peas (from 1 pound unshelled peas)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice*
2/3 cup dry white wine
4 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth (preferably homemade)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or mint (optional)

Trim off and discard the tough ends from the asparagus. Cut spears diagonally into 1-inch pieces, leaving the tips intact.
In a 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Stir in the garlic and cook until just fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the asparagus and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until bright green, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and cook, stirring, 1 minute longer. Remove vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside.
In the same pot, melt two-thirds of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until translucent and coated with the butter, about 2 minutes.
Pour in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the wine is absorbed and the alcohol evaporates, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in 1 cup of the hot broth and cook, stirring often, until absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring often, until the broth is absorbed and the rice mixture is very soft andcreamy and each grain is tender but still slightly firm in the center, about 15 minutes total.
Stir in the reserved vegetables and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat and stir inthe cheese and theremaining butteruntil melted and smooth. Taste, adding salt and freshly ground pepper as needed. Serve at once in warmed shallow bowls or plates, topping each serving with a sprinkling of chives. Pass extra Parmesan at the table. Serves 3 to 4.

* I prefer to use Italian Arborio or Carnaroli rice, which gives this dish its character and requisite creamy texture. In a pinch, however, any short-grain white rice will do.

Note: If you have any leftover risotto (something unheard of in my house) simply refrigerate it overnight. When firm, form it into small patties and sauté in olive oil to serve as a side-dish at any meal.

ASPARAGUS TIPS
When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvest, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.

To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.
Thick or thin? Like people, it’s all a matter of personal preference. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants produce thicker spears.
To store, wrap asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inch of water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

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The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.