Peggy Fallon

Life’s a Peach!

August 5, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Produce practically sells itself this month. No one needs to be enticed to shop at the farmers’ market, where the glories of summer abound. Best of all, so much of what you find there requires little or no cooking. Make shopping the market your secret to noteworthy summer meals. No one needs to know how little time you actually spent in the kitchen.

Who would turn down a bowl of perfectly ripe raspberries, or a slab of juicy ice-cold watermelon for dessert? Locally grown berries, plums, and grapes are as sweet as candy. What possible adornment could improve upon a fragrant, tree-ripened peach or nectarine? Veggies like a rainbow of organically-grown tomato varieties, crunchy cucumbers, multi-color bell peppers, tender young green beans, and green and yellow summer squash often taste best after little or no cooking, or with nothing more than a drizzle of California olive oil. Just a minute or two on the grill makes summer’s sweet corn the thing memories are made of. It’s summertime, and the livin’ is indeed easy.

But sometimes, when a special occasion warrants a special dessert, I gather up my weekly farmers’ market stash and bake in the quiet morning hours before the afternoon heat sets in.

Save the layer cake, chocolate mousse, and bread pudding for fall. When summer fruits are at their peak, showcase them in pies, cobblers, and shortcakes. Crisps are hands-down the easiest baked dessert of all. And when you start out with the finest fruits of the season, it’s hard to fail.

PEACH and BOYSENBERRY CRISP

For the Filling:
8 to 10 firm but ripe large peaches (4 to 5 pounds)
1/3 cup (packed) light or dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour (or more, as needed)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 pint (2 cups) vine-ripened boysenberries
For the Topping:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup (packed) light or dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup toasted and coarsely chopped California walnuts or almonds
1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart baking dish. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside.

2. To peel the peaches, bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Using the tip of a small sharp knife, score an X on the bottom of each peach. Add peaches to the boiling water a few at a time, and immerse for 30 seconds only. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the bowl of ice water. Remove the peach skins with your fingers or a knife, and discard. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, cut the peaches in half and discard the pits; then cut the peach halves into wedges about 3/4-inch thick. (You will have about 7 cups of peach wedges, give or take. The measurement is not crucial.)

3. To make the filling: In a large bowl, stir together the brown sugar, flour, and salt. Add the peaches, the peach juices, and the lemon juice. Toss to coat. Gently mix in the boysenberries. Set aside for 10 minutes to draw out the juices and let flavors blend. If peaches seem exceptionally juicy, add up to 1 more tablespoon of flour. Stir gently once again and scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish.

4. To make the topping: In a large bowl, stir togetherthe flour, brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, and cinnamon. Stir in the nuts. Add the cold butter and mix, using your fingertips, a pastry blender, or two knives, until thebutter pieces are coated with the dry ingredients and the mixture resembles very coarse meal. Sprinkle evenly over the peach mixture. Place the baking dish on a parchment- or foil-lined rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake until the topping is golden brown and the filling is bubbly-hot, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with ice cream, whipped cream, crème fraiche, or yogurt.Serves 10 to 12.

Cook’s Tips
To toast nuts: spread in a small pan and bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.

The topping mixture can be made in advance and kept frozen, so you will always be half-way to a seasonal fruit crisp.

Use nectarines instead of peaches, and save yourself the step of peeling them.

I happen to be partial to boysenberries, but vine-ripened blackberries or any of its other cultivars—such as olallieberries, loganberries, and marionberries—are fine substitutes.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!

Gifts of Nature

July 9, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

A morning at the summer farmers’ market is an inevitable source of culinary inspiration. In California, we have won the Produce Sweepstakes. The combination of blue skies, truckloads of just-picked sweet corn, and the intoxicating perfume created by juicy stone fruits, plump blackberries, ripe strawberries, and fresh flowers does it to me every time. Top it all off with a little live background music, and I’m ready to do some serious shopping. There’s a reason I keep an ice chest in the trunk of my car.

Vine-ripened tomatoes and just-picked corn win the popularity contest at the market, with berries and stone fruits running a close second. But don’t overlook the proliferation of melons, which seem exceptionally sweet this year. Be it orange or green-fleshed, a succulent wedge of ripe melon is a surefire way to begin a summer day.

And then there’s watermelon. (sigh) Not the anemic, mealy specimens piled high at the supermarket, but the seductively sweet and juicy melon that childhood dreams are made of. I can rarely resist taking one home to enjoy throughout the week. Plain or fancy, watermelon rocks.

A couple of summers ago I attended a potluck with a number of fellow food professionals. One particular salad, provided by my friend and colleague Cheryl Loring, was the star of the afternoon. I was not the only one who returned for seconds. We begged, and she shared her recipe.

I must admit I’m a little “meh” about most watermelon salads. So many try too hard to be “creative”and end up masking the watermelon flavor with a lot of hefty ingredients. But this salad made me (and others) sit up and take notice. The unlikely combination of sweet melon and crunchy cucumber tossed in a slightly spicy, fruit-forward dressing with an unexpected touch of heat, is finished off with cooling shreds of fresh mint, making it as refreshing as it is intriguing.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m still all about enjoying an ice-cold hunk of summer watermelon any time of day or night, but sometimes I need to up my game, especially when entertaining. That’s why this salad is now part of my annual repertoire.

Cheryl Loring teaches custom cooking classes in her delightful art-filled home in Alameda. She is the consummate hostess, and her knowledge of various cuisines knows no bounds. (As an added bonus her husband, Michael, is a brilliant chocolatier.) Find out how to learn more creative recipes from Cheryl’s Party Kitchen by going to cherylloring.com.You may just add a new dish or two to your own repertoire.

Cheryl’s Watermelon and Cucumber Ribbon Salad

1 English (seedless) cucumber, ends trimmed

4 cups diced seedless watermelon

1/4 cup Momma Cheryl’s Apple Cinnamon Syrup (recipe follows)

1/8 cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon mint chiffonade*

Use a mandolin or vegetable peeler to cut the cucumber lengthwise into ribbons.
In a large bowl, mix together the syrup, lemon juice, and pepper flakes. Add the cucumber ribbons, watermelon, and mint. Toss gently to mix. Serve chilled. Serves 6 to 8.

* Chiffonade is a technique used to cut leaves into fine ribbons. (In French, it literally means ‘made of rags.”) A shower of herbaceous goodness is not only a practical way to distribute flavor, but looks charming—albeit a teeny bit chef-y—adding a festive, confetti-like appearance to any dish. (And in this case, also mimics the cucumber ribbons.)

To make the mint chiffonade: Stack several mint leaves on top of each other, neatly aligned; then roll them into a tight cylinder. Use a sharp knife or kitchen scissors to cut the cylinder crosswise into very thin strips. Separate the strips with your fingertips, and let the party begin!

Momma Cheryl’s Apple Cinnamon Syrup

This recipe makes far more syrup than you’ll need for this salad, but it keeps very well in the refrigerator. Make it your “secret ingredient” to add to vinaigrettes; pie fillings; or to drizzle over berries or other fruit salads. It can also be drizzled over pancakes, waffles, or ice cream; stirred into applesauce or yogurt; or added to just about anything that would benefit from a hint of spicy sweetness.

1 quart apple cider

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick

1/3 cup pomegranate molasses

In a medium saucepan, combine the apple cider and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 20 minutes, or until the cider is reduced by half.
Reduce the heat to low and stir in the pomegranate molasses. Simmer for 20 minutes or until the mixture reaches a syrup-like consistency that will coat the back of a spoon. Let cool, then transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate until needed.

Seeds of Wisdom

–Since melons have no starch reserves to convert to sugar, they do NOT continue to ripen once harvested. This alone is reason enough to shop the farmers’ market, where quality is a given.

–Shopping tips: A whole watermelon should feel heavy for its size. Then look at the area where the melon has rested on the ground during its growing period—a creamy yellow area indicates ripeness at the time of harvest.

–A whole watermelon can be kept at cool room temperature for up to 1 week; or refrigerated, whole, for up to 2 weeks.

–It takes 8 to 10 hours to chill a whole watermelon thoroughly, so plan accordingly.

–Always rinse the outside of any melon well with water before slicing.

Apricot Dreams

June 9, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Last summer I invited a few good friends to my house for a leisurely Sunday lunch. One couple brought me a flat of Blenheim apricots. No bottle of mediocre wine, mind you. A flat of Blenheim’s. Seriously.

Such an incredible gift! All of us ignored the appetizers I had prepared, as we sat there popping those incredible little apricots into our mouths, mopping up the sweet juices with napkins. I can’t even remember what else we ate that day.

I was still savoring that taste-memory when a couple of months later I was contacted by a woman writing a single-subject cookbook on apricots who wanted some help fine-tuning her recipes for publication. We met, waxed poetic over apricots (as only food lovers do), and decided this collaboration would be a good fit.

Fast-forward another few months, and the book is released—just in time for the 2018 apricot season. And a lovely book it is. First-time author Lisa Newman will have you salivating from beginning to end.

For the Love of Apricots: Recipes and Memories of the Santa Clara Valley contains over 60 recipes beginning with Breakfast and ending with Cocktails; as she says, “just like the best days of our lives.”

Since apricot season is so painfully short, Lisa provides both sweet and savory recipes for apricots in every form: fresh, dried, and preserved—with plenty of tips for freezing, preserving, and otherwise saving your own. She even gives instructions for making your own apricot syrup and apricot liqueur.

If you are interested in learning more about apricots, or would like to order a copy of Lisa’s book, visit her information-packed blog, fortheloveofapricots.com.

Since apricots are the star of stone fruits at the farmers’ market this month—right up there with ripe red cherries—I turned to Lisa for one of her recipes. And she didn’t disappoint.

I think the first time I saw a Dutch Baby was many years ago at some upscale pancake house. Someone nearby had ordered one, and as the waiter whisked it to the adjacent table I was mesmerized by this extravagantly puffy concoction barely hidden beneath of shower of powdered sugar. It was definitely an “I’ll have what she’s having” moment. I was later delighted to learn how surprisingly easy they are to prepare.

This is not the sort of pancake that sinks into your stomach and sits there all day like a leaden zeppelin. It’s light and pleasantly eggy, like a clafoutis gone wild.

Lisa says, “A Dutch Baby pancake takes minutes to assemble and the alchemy that happens when the batter and hot melted butter mix at high temperature makes for a dramatic moment when it comes out of the oven. I like to gather everyone around the oven as if unveiling a work of art. Adding apricot slices to the pancake batter takes this breakfast tradition to another level. Feel free to use sliced frozen apricots in place of fresh so you can enjoy this recipe year round; they work just as well. The Dutch Baby is a great foundation for toppings. For my taste, a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg with squeezes of lemon and a sprinkling of powdered sugar is heavenly. Drizzling some apricot or maple syrup over the pancake is wonderful too.”

Apricot Dutch Baby Pancake

3/4 pound fresh, ripe apricots (about 6)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
3 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 cup all-purpose flour
Toppings
Grated fresh nutmeg
1 to 2 lemons, quartered
Powdered sugar
Apricot syrup

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Pit and slice the apricots. There should be enough to lightly fill the bottom of a 2- to 3-quart pan. Set aside.

Place butter in the pan (a cast iron pan is ideal) and set in the preheated oven to melt for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully so it doesn’t burn.

While the butter is melting, quickly make the batter. Mix the eggs in a blender with the machine running for 30 seconds. Pour in the milk and blend well, then gradually mix in the flour. Beat 30 seconds or longer, scraping down the sides if necessary, until the flour is well incorporated.

Remove the pan from the oven, pour in the batter, and bake until puffed and nicely browned, 20 minutes. While the Dutch Baby is baking prepare the toppings.

Remove the Dutch Baby from the oven and dust the pancake with nutmeg. It will quickly deflate and should be served immediately. Pass lemon wedges, powdered sugar, and syrup toppings at the table.

Note: Lisa says this serves 4. Her family must be far more polite than mine.

Time for a Pit Stop

May 10, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

It is said that April showers bring May flowers, but we know that’s just the beginning of nature’s bounty. Many signs of spring are cropping up at the farmers’ market, but most significant of all is the arrival of cherries.

Cherry season starts off slowly with the Black Tartarian and Burlat; followed by the blushing yellow Royal Anne and Rainier. (Sour cherries, like the Montmorency and Morello are less common, as they are primarily grown outside of California.) Most agree the West’s dark, meaty Bing is the quintessential cherry, with Lamberts, Sweethearts, and Vans the runners-up in popularity.

Few things are sweeter than eating Bing cherries out of hand, one after another. Day after day. But once I’ve stained my fingers red—and made endless fruit salads and brandied cherries and cherry pie and cherry chutney and cherry clafoutis and cherry-studded rice pudding and cherry ice cream—I often explore unpaved territory for unique ways to make the most of their short season. Enter this easily-made condiment to add a taste of spring to any occasion.

Cherry-Apple Relish

1 1/2 teaspoons cider or balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons local honey
2 cups Bing cherries (about 12 ounces), stemmed, pitted and coarsely chopped, juices reserved
1 small Granny Smith or other tart apple, skin-on, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
2 green onions (scallions), thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
1 small garlic clove, minced or crushed through a press
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, mix together the vinegar and honey until blended. Add the cherries and their accumulated juices, the apple, green onions, mint, garlic, salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Toss gently to mix well. Taste, adding more salt, pepper, or vinegar if needed. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Relish This!
–Serve Cherry-Apple Relish alongside grilled or roasted chicken, duck, pork, tofu—or even a gooey Jack cheese quesadilla. It’s also delish spooned over plain or vanilla yogurt.
–You may want to switch things up by changing the herb in the relish. Instead of mint, try a bit of chopped fresh thyme, rosemary, or parsley.
–Mound Cherry-Apple Relish on top of a wheel of baked or room-temperature brie and drizzle a bit more honey over all.
–For individual appetizers, arrange California endive leaves on a serving platter and place about 1 1/2 teaspoons of soft goat cheese on the cut end of each leaf. Just before serving, spoon a bit of Cherry-Apple Relish over the cheese.
–Include a small bowl of Cherry-Apple Relish on cheese and/or charcuterie boards, surrounded by crackers or crostini.

Cherry Trivia

The Bing cherry was cultivated in Oregon in 1875 by horticulturist Seth Lewelling and named after his longtime Manchurian orchard foreman, Ah Bing.

Before you balk at the price of organic cherries, consider that organic crops yield about 25 percent fewer cherries than those grown with conventional farming methods. Such is the price of healthy eating.

When shopping, look for cherries that are shiny, plump, and firm.

A pliable green stem is the sign of a just-picked cherry. Cherries-on-the-stem also tend to last longer.

Refrigerate cherries, unwashed and with stems intact, in an open plastic bag. It’s best to eat them within 5 days of purchase.

Cherries weigh in at about 80 calories per cup, with 3 grams of fiber and 1 gram of protein. They are high in anti-oxidants and a good source of vitamin C.

Cherry Arithmetic: 1 pound cherries = about 3 cups pitted cherries

To preserve stemmed pitted cherries for baking year ‘round, flash-freeze them on a rimmed baking sheet until solid; then pack into freezer-safe bags or airtight plastic containers. Use frozen, not thawed.

A cherry-pitter is an inexpensive kitchen tool that makes the job a breeze. (It works a bit like a paper punch, forcing the pit out of the cherry.) Lacking one, just remove the pit with the tip of a small, sharp knife or the pointed end of a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler.

Cherry juice can stain your hands, so you may want to wear latex gloves—and an apron—while pitting them. To prevent the juice from splattering you or your kitchen, try pitting them inside of a gallon-size plastic bag.

For a casually delicious ending to any meal, rinse picture-perfect ripe cherries and pat them dry. Working one at a time and holding each by the stem, dip the cherries in melted dark or white chocolate and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet; then refrigerate until the chocolate coating is firm. (This is an especially charming presentation for “twins”—2 cherries joined at the stem.) Just be sure to warn your guests these cherry-chocolate bonbons contain pits.) The same effect can be had (with a lot less labor on your part) by serving a big mound of cherries with a warm pot of creamy chocolate fondue.

Eschew those scary iridescent cherries sold in jars, and make your own boozy ones to garnish cocktails and desserts. For each pint jar you’ll need about 1 pound of fresh cherries. Rinse them well and pat dry; pit them or not, as you like. (If you don’t pit them, prick each cherry 2 or 3 times so the liquor will penetrate the fruit.) Pack cherries into the sterilized jar, cover with bourbon, rye, brandy, kirsch, or Maraschino liqueur, and refrigerate. When all the cherries have been eaten, mix the remaining alcohol into Manhattans or other cocktails.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show our appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!

Rolling in the Green

April 8, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

With the Ides of April looming overhead you may feel a little strapped for cash, but there’s plenty of green at the farmers’ market.
Spring crops like squeaky-fresh artichokes, elegant asparagus, crunchy celery, and sweet English peas abound. To cast a rosy glow on the month, look for plump little cherries, field-grown rhubarb, velvety raspberries, and early strawberries from local farms.

The following salad celebrates the season in style. It makes a stunning all-in-one side dish, combining creamy new potatoes with plenty of young veggies. It’s also perfectly suited for the main event on Meatless Mondays, perhaps paired with a warm loaf of artisan whole-grain bread.

As you peruse the April farmers’ market, feel free to add other spring favorites to your salad: a handful or two of watercress, dandelion, or other tender greens; fava beans; green onions; thinly sliced fennel; or crisp strips of jicama. To up the protein content, consider topping each serving with a poached or fried egg.

Herbed Spring Salad with Goat Cheese

1 1/2 pounds farm-fresh asparagus
1 1/2 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup California olive oil
Fine sea salt
1 pound “creamers” or red or white tiny new potatoes (about 12)
2 pounds fresh peas-in-the-pod, shelled (about 2 cups)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons coarse-grain mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 radishes, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or chives
Crumbled soft California goat cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut off and discard the tough ends from the asparagus spears; then cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces. On a large baking sheet, combine the asparagus and the 1 1/2 tablespoons of olive oil. Toss to coat with oil and spread in an even layer. Season lightly with salt. Bake until the asparagus is barely tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon thickness. Set aside to cool.

2. Place potatoes in a large saucepan with 2 teaspoons of the salt. Add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the potatoes with a slotted spoon and place in a large colander to drain. Let cool, then cut each potato in half.

3. Return the saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a bowl of ice water. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook just until bright green, about 1 minute. Use the slotted spoon to immediately plunge the peas into the ice water. When cool, transfer peas to the colander with the potatoes.

4. Make the vinaigrette: In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Whisk in the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil. Add the asparagus, potatoes, peas, radishes, and mint. Toss gently to coat with vinaigrette. Turn the salad onto a large rimmed platter and scatter cheese over the top.
Serves 4 to 6.

Minding Your Peas and Q’s

–Like corn, the sugars contained within peas convert to starch shortly after harvesting, so it’s best to buy them fresh from the farmers’ market and eat them as soon as possible. Store them in an open plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.

— Regardless of which variety of peas you buy, always inspect the “packaging”: look for plump, glossy green pea pods, crisp and free of blemishes.

–Easy does it! An over-cooked pea is a sorry thing. Strictly speaking, no peas require cooking—though giving common “English” peas and snow peas a quick sauté or blanch in boiling water will intensify their color and mellow their flavor ever so slightly.

–Although “string-less” sugar snap peas are increasingly popular, more classic varieties have a tough string running along the length of the pod. If they are not labeled “string-less” at the farmers’ market, just ask the grower. Removing the string is incredibly easy: Just snap off the leaf end and pull down on the string. (This is a mindless chore best done while watching television.)
Sugar snap peas are so easily over-cooked, I always use them raw. One of my favorite snap pea salads comes from Ina Garten: Drizzle the snap peas lightly with Asian sesame oil and toss gently until well coated and glossy. Sprinkle black or white sesame seeds over the top and serve. Delish!

A Taste of Spring

March 8, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

March is a transitional month at the farmers’ market, when spring crops slowly find their way back into our weekly meals. Few can resist the lure of early strawberries—and, to my way of thinking, no one should.

But we’re also presented with a glorious proliferation of green, with artichokes; avocados; fava beans; tiny spring lettuces; baby spinach; and tender young peas of all persuasions—from common peas-in-the-pod to crunchy sugar-snaps. We’ll also want to stock up on crisp green cabbage and the numerous potato varieties so integral to St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. In the non-edible category, fresh-cut flowers abound. Always the perfect antidote to a gloomy day!

Unlike the cases of stuff that are floor-stacked year ‘round at the warehouse store, spring asparagus is oh-so-tender with an incomparably delicate, sweet taste. Fortunately, much of our nation’s supply is grown locally, so freshness is a given. What we find at the farmers’ market is not only top-quality, it has been harvested within the past 24 hours. Never shipped half-way around the country. Or world.

Following its initial arrival at the market, I am perfectly content with a big platter of au natural oven-roasted asparagus spears at suppertime. Other times I will garnish it with a couple of softly-boiled egg halves, or a shower of toasted artisan breadcrumbs, almonds, finely shredded Parmesan cheese, finely grated lemon or zest, or chopped fresh chives. Other times, I’ll share the love by incorporating those sexy spears into a crowd-pleasing dish for friends.

This month’s recipe is an upscale take on pasta salad, starring some of my favorite flavors. I may be Irish-American by birth, but always Italian at heart.

Roasted Asparagus Salad with Tortellini

2 pounds farm-fresh asparagus
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup California extra virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt
About 1 pound fresh or frozen cheese-filled tortellini or other filled pasta
1 garlic clove, minced or crushed through a press
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar or white wine vinegar
1/4 cup coarsely chopped pitted kalamata olives
1 green onion (scallion), white and green parts thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
2 large handfuls baby arugula or spinach leaves
A small chunk of Pecorino Romano, Parmesan, or other hard cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut off and discard the tough ends from the asparagus spears; then cut the stalks diagonally into 2-inch pieces. On a large baking sheet, combine the asparagus and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toss to coat with oil and spread in an even layer. Season lightly with salt. Bake until the asparagus is barely tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon thickness. Set aside to cool.

2. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the tortellini as the package directs. Drain in a colander, rinse under cold running water to cool, and drain well.

3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the garlic, vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil until well blended. Add the roasted asparagus, tortellini, olives, green onion, and sun-dried tomatoes. Toss gently to coat with the dressing. Mix in the arugula. Arrange the salad on a large rimmed platter. Use a vegetable peeler to shave cheese over the top. Serves 8.

To keep the colors, textures, and flavors at their peak, it is best to assemble this salad shortly before serving. All the various components, however, can be prepared up to 1 day in advance. To do this:

-Roast the asparagus; let cool; and refrigerate in a covered bowl.
-Cook the tortellini as directed; toss with a bit of olive oil and refrigerate in a covered bowl. The tortellini will stick together, so—just before using—rinse again in a colander to separate.
-Mix the vinaigrette in a small jar and refrigerate.
-Slice the green onion and chop the olives and sun-dried tomatoes and refrigerate.

ASPARAGUS TIPS

• When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvesting, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.

• If your taste leans toward the exotic, remember that white asparagus is comparatively bland; and that purple asparagus turns green when cooked.

• White asparagus is the very same vegetable; it’s just grown differently. The stalks are covered with soil during the growing period to block out the sun, so they never produce chlorophyll—and therefore never turn green.

• To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.

• Thick or thin? Like people, it’s often the luck of the draw. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants tend to produce thicker spears. It’s as simple as that.

• To store, wrap unwashed asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in an open plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inch of water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.

• To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim off the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends…or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at First & Oak Streets, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Pucker Up for Valentine’s Day!

February 8, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Life without lemons is not worth living. There. I said it.
I’m crazy about the way they look, the way they smell, and their bright, bracing flavor. Describing lemons as “versatile” barely scratches the surface.

Any worthwhile establishment adds a lemon slice to water glasses, and provides a wedge alongside seafood dishes. Cocktails wouldn’t be the same without a twist. And don’t even get me started on limoncello…

Lemonade is the unofficial beverage of summer. Tea is incomplete without a little squeeze. Espresso benefits from a strip of peel. Lemon meringue pie is a perennial home-style favorite. Restaurants get fancy with mousses, sorbets, and soufflés. Greek, Moroccan, and Sicilian cuisines—among so many others—pay homage to the lemon. Lemon drops and candied lemon peel define the glories of sweet-tart. Lemon juice is a delicate substitute for vinegar. And last but not least, tarnished copper shines up beautifully when coarse salt is rubbed onto the surface with a lemon half! No other fruit shares such bragging rights.

Valentine’s Day is coming, and guess what? Not everyone is a hardcore chocoholic. Winter is citrus season, so the following cake may be just the thing to brighten your day. It’s tender, moist, and not-too-sweet. The juice and zest of a lemon take center-stage; and rather than overpowering, the olive oil lends a fruity/peppery undertone that rounds out the flavor.

This simple sweet would make a thoughtful gift for a special friend or neighbor, or a welcome snack any time of day. Some may even eat it for breakfast. (Hey, it’s made from fruit, right?) You can also serve it as a Valentine dessert, perhaps accompanied by a glass of champagne. And, if you must, a couple of chocolate truffles.

Lemony Snippets

–Although native to Southeast Asia, lemons are now grown in tropical and temperate climates throughout the world. California is the leading producer in the United States.

–Eureka and Lisbon are the most common varieties we see. The Meyer lemon, beloved by home gardeners, is not a true lemon but a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange—which accounts for its deep yellow-orange color and slightly sweet flavor. Meyer lemons, in season from October through April, bruise easily so you rarely find them in supermarkets.

–Lemons last longest in the refrigerator, but I often keep a bowl of them on the kitchen counter to use over the course of a few days. (This also allows me time to enjoy their heady perfume and sunny beauty.)

–To maximize juice output, roll a room-temperature lemon firmly back and forth on a work surface before halving and juicing.

–When using zest in a recipe, I generally opt for organic lemons. If using conventionally grown lemons, first scrub them well to remove any residual sprays.

–The juice of 1 lemon provides anywhere from 40 to 70 percent of the minimum daily requirement of Vitamin C.

–For optimal flavor and nutritional value, juice lemons just before using.

–An average lemon contains 2 to 3 tablespoons of juice, and 2 to 3 teaspoons of zest.

Lemon-Olive Oil Cake

1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon)
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from the zested lemon)
1/2 cup California extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing the pan
Confectioners’ (powdered) sugar for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-inch cake pan with olive oil. Line the pan with a parchment round and oil the paper. Dust with flour and tap out the excess.

2. Combine the sugar and lemon zest in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.* Add the eggs. Beat on High until the mixture is pale, thick, and doubled in volume, 6 to 7 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk gently to blend well.

4. Reduce the mixer speed to Low and beat in the lemon juice; then gradually add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Mix until incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer.

5. Sprinkle about 1/3 of the flour mixture into the bowl, and use a large rubber spatula to fold it into the egg mixture just until incorporated. Do not overmix. Repeat, gently folding in the remaining flour mixture in 2 additions, and scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl to ensure it is evenly distributed. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the edges are set and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with only a few moist crumbs attached, 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Use a thin knife to loosen the cake from the edges of the pan, then invert onto the wire rack and carefully peel off the parchment. Let cool completely. Just before serving, dust with confectioners’ sugar. Makes 1 (9-inch) cake, to serve 6 to 8.
*Alternatively, a hand-held mixture can be used. The mixing process will just take longer.

Going Green in 2018

January 11, 2018 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Congratulations! You survived another holidaze! We may be a little worse for wear, but inevitably welcome the joys and challenges of the New Year. After all the indulgences of the past two months, a lot of us turn to a vegetable-centric diet in January. The farmers’ market may not be as glamorous as a few months back, but it remains a good place to clear your mind and plan meals for the week ahead. Best of all, there are still plenty of healthy bargains to be found there. Look for an astounding array of Asian greens, winter squash, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and the often-overlooked broccoli.

Every supermarket produce department features a towering mound of “fresh” broccoli, but look closely and you’ll probably find florets turning yellow, dried or cracked stems, or an unpleasant cabbagey smell. Not terribly enticing. When truly fresh, this cruciferous vegetable is crunchy-good—raw or cooked.

The weather is cool, and my nesting instincts have kicked into full gear. Cozy time in front of the fireplace, candlelight, and comfort food are the rules of the month; and making a pot of soup hits all the marks on my to-do list each week. Whether it’s a first-course or the main event, broccoli soup is an economical food to soothe the soul. This one benefits from a relatively brief cooking time—just until the broccoli is tender—so it retains its beautiful color. (Who wants to sit down to a bowl of drab, army-green liquid?) I seldom tire of eating it several consecutive days before reaching the bottom of the pot; but if you prefer, freeze the leftovers for another meal.

If you happen to be following a low-carb diet, you’re in luck. If you prefer to reduce the fat in this recipe, omit the butter and substitute unsweetened coconut milk for the cream.

Start the meal with a crisp green salad, and serve the soup piping hot with warm, crusty whole-grain bread from the farmers’ market. It’s time to really celebrate the New Year!

Creamy Broccoli Soup with Lemon & Parmesan

1 large bunch farm-fresh broccoli (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)
2 tablespoons California olive oil
1 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
1 large rib celery, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
Fine sea salt
4 cups (32 ounces) chicken or vegetable stock, purchased or homemade
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream or half-and-half
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or as needed
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more, to taste
4 strips bacon, cooked until crisp and crumbled, or herbed croutons
3/4 cup (3 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Trim off the ends of the broccoli stems. Remove and reserve any fresh green leaves. Peel the thick stalks and slice them into 1-inch pieces. Separate the florets into 1-inch pieces.

2. In a soup pot or 4- to 6-quart Dutch oven, melt the butter in the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, and carrot and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute longer.

3. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the stock. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Add the broccoli stems and boil, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add the florets and leaves and let the stock return to a boil. Cook uncovered until the florets are tender but still bright green, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Use a hand-held immersion blender to puree the soup* (Alternatively, let the soup cool for 10 minutes and, working in batches, puree in a blender or food processor. Return the pureed soup to the pot.)

5. Stir in the cream, lemon juice, and cayenne. Cook uncovered over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Taste, adding more salt, lemon juice, and cayenne as needed.

6. To serve, spoon the hot soup into bowls and top each with about 2 teaspoons of bacon, if using. Pass the bowl of cheese at the table, for each guest to sprinkle over the soup. Makes 7 to 8 cups.

*The vegetables will still retain some texture—which I think is fine. (Can’t we all use a little more fiber in our diets?) If you prefer a perfectly smooth puree for a less rustic soup, take the added step of straining the puree through a fine sieve; keeping in mind that the total yield will be a bit less than the original recipe.

Getting a Head Start

December 10, 2017 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

December is for entertaining. Whether you are a host or a guest, time is always a big consideration. Evenings are often multi-tasking marathons, angling to see as many friends as possible, though never fully enjoying one gathering before heading off to the next.

And then there is your own in-home entertaining to deal with. Choosing a date and time to accommodate the schedules all your family and friends can be a challenge of epic proportions.

Whichever holiday you choose to observe this month, and whenever you choose to celebrate it, one nagging question remains: what to serve? If you shrink from entertaining cocktail party revelers into the wee hours of the morning, or dread the formality of an elegant dinner party, consider inviting friends in for a relaxing late breakfast buffet. Yes, that’s the meal formerly known as brunch.

If you are suddenly paralyzed by thoughts of pre-dawn alarm clocks and broken hollandaise sauce, hear me out.

Egg strata is a layered main-dish casserole that requires advance preparation, ensuring an easy morning for whoever’s on kitchen duty. Set the table at your leisure the night before. Stock up on locally-grown produce and flowers from the farmers’ market. The morning of your party, set out icy pitchers of fresh-squeezed orange and grapefruit juices; pop open a bottle or two of champagne, make a big pot of coffee, and you’re halfway there.

…and now for a little something on the side.

This is an opportunity to show off your entertaining chops, offering a colorful and appetizing array of side dishes to accompany the strata. The more guests you invite, the more options you’ll want to provide.

–Ward off the morning chill with creamy butternut squash soup served in espresso cups

–A platter of smoked salmon dotted with capers and garnished with thinly sliced red onion and lemon wedges. Serve a small bowl of sour cream and a peppermill on the side.

–Fill a large salad bowl with spinach, arugula, or assorted seasonal lettuces, quartered fresh figs, and candied walnuts—all tossed with a champagne vinaigrette

–Small bunches of seedless grapes, piled high in a bowl of ice

–Tiny cornmeal muffins served alongside chilled fresh orange and cranberry compote

–Small scones or bran muffins studded with bits of date and/or dried apricot, served with sweet butter and apricot jam

–Roasted “smashed” new potatoes with fresh rosemary

–Sweet potato gratin with fresh ginger and a drizzle of honey

–A bowl of chunky homemade applesauce with a touch of cinnamon

–Baked pear halves stuffed with raisins, walnuts, and brown sugar, served with a small bowl of sweetened crème fraiche

–Try a modern take on Waldorf salad: bite-size pieces of crisp apple, chopped celery, halved red or green seedless grapes, dried cherries, and toasted walnuts, all bound together with vanilla yogurt instead of mayo. Add a squeeze of fresh lime juice to highlight the flavors.

–If breakfast automatically registers “pork products” with you, bring on a warm platter of crisp bacon, link sausage, or Canadian bacon. All can be cooked in advance and warmed in a low oven just before serving.

Three-Mushroom Celebration Strata

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2 ounces dried mushrooms, such as morels, porcini, or shiitake

1 tablespoon California olive oil

2 large shallots, finely chopped

4 ounces (white) button mushrooms, sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)

4 ounces (brown) cremini mushrooms (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon soy sauce*

10 ounces day-old artisan bread, such as ciabatta or baguette, crust-on, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 5 cups)

8 ounces shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese (about 2 cups)

10 large eggs, lightly beaten

4 cups half-and-half or whole milk

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Prepare the strata 1 day in advance. Use some of the butter to grease a 13- x 9-inch or other shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart baking dish.
Place the dried mushrooms in a heatproof medium bowl. Add boiling water to cover and let stand until plumped and softened, 20 to 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels; then slice.
Combine the remaining butter and the oil in a large skillet. Cook over medium heat until the butter has melted. Stir in the shallots and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the rehydrated dry mushrooms and the fresh mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until the liquid cooks away, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the thyme and soy sauce and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat.
Spread the bread cubes in the prepared baking dish and sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, half-and-half, salt, and mustard. Whisk until well blended. Pour the egg mixture over the bread cubes, and top with an even layer of mushrooms. Use a rubber spatula to press down the ingredients to ensure that all of the bread is coated with egg. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Discard the plastic wrap and place the cold casserole in the oven. Bake until the top is puffed and nicely browned and a knife inserted into the center shows no evidence of uncooked egg, about 1 hour. Tent the dish with foil if the top is browning too quickly. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes before serving with a large spoon. Serves 8.

*Soy sauce may seem like an odd ingredient here, but in addition to adding a bit of sodium it boosts the natural flavor of the mushrooms. Don’t worry. Your strata will not taste like Chinese take-out.

Making Memories

November 10, 2017 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

For the first few weeks of this month, a towering pile of cookbooks and glossy magazines is never far from my reach. And once I tire of flipping pages, I turn to Pinterest and other trusted web sites for inspiration. It becomes a part-time job. Thanksgiving is coming, and I seek perfection. A kind of Norman Rockwell-meets-Martha Stewart affair.

Unlike other holidays that drag us into debt, Thanksgiving celebrates the simple basics in life: nourishment, sharing, and gratitude. Preparing a thoughtful meal shows how much you care….about your friends, your family, and California’s bountiful resources.

I do the bulk of my Thanksgiving shopping at the farmers’ market—where the food is fresh, healthy, and locally grown. It’s also the most meaningful way I know to show my gratitude to the people who grow the food we eat throughout the year.

As I navigate my way through the market in the crisp morning air, I look for freshly-harvested walnuts and almonds to enhance everything from appetizers to desserts; plump raisins, dried apricots, and other dried fruits; just-picked lettuces; pure fruit juices; sugar pumpkins and crisp apples for pies; acorn and other winter squash; artisan breads to serve as is, or to cut into cubes for homemade stuffing; aromatic extra-virgin olive oil, yellow onions, celery, parsley, and garlic to enhance that stuffing; tender young carrots; broccoli; Brussels sprouts; sweet potatoes; locally-produced honey; russet potatoes and Yukon Golds for mashing; pomegranates, pears, persimmons, and all other matter of fall flora, fauna, fruits, and veggies to make a spectacular yet affordable still-life centerpiece for my table. Thanksgiving comes but once a year, so this is no time to scrimp.

To lessen the odds of a family uprising, I plan the menu around tried-and-true old standards that simply cannot be messed with: roast turkey, creamy mashed potatoes, giblet gravy, herbed bread stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. But just to keep things interesting (for myself), I go rogue with some of the appetizers, remaining side dishes, and/or desserts. Sometimes these new additions are met with great enthusiasm. Other times, not so much.

Brussels sprouts roasted until lightly charred, then topped with a hailstorm of glistening pomegranate seeds, was a winner. Ditto for Thanksgiving slaw—finely shredded green cabbage, a bit of shaved red onion, toasted sliced almonds, and dried cranberries tossed in a mustardy apple cider-maple vinaigrette—expertly assembled by my 12-year-old grandson while I fussed over something else. Those are the good memories.

At the other end of the spectrum, there was last year’s mashed sweet potatoes with chipotle chiles. (Can you say, muy caliente?) I am still haunted by the sight of five grandchildren frantically reaching for their water glasses, desperate to cool the fire.

Undeterred, I still like the idea of serving mashed sweet potatoes– primarily because they can easily be made in advance and reheated just before serving. This year’s version is also refreshingly low-fat, making a good foil for the many rich dishes served that day. The fresh ginger adds spice with just a hint of heat, and is tamed by the sweet tang of orange.

You may notice the conspicuous absence of marshmallows, puddles of melted butter, booze, pecans, and molten brown sugar in this recipe. (I’ve saved you a couple of hundred calories here.) If your family has a collective sweet-tooth, you can always add a tablespoon or so of honey. But that’s it. This is a vegetable. Not dessert. And it won’t scare the children.

MASHED SWEET POTATOES WITH ORANGE & GINGER

4 pounds (about 4 large) red-skinned sweet potatoes (yam variety), scrubbed but not peeled, patted dry

2 medium oranges

3 tablespoons finely grated or minced fresh peeled gingerroot

Fine sea salt

Honey, to taste (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the sweet potatoes on a foil-lined baking sheet, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Prick the skins 2 or 3 times with a fork. Bake until a knife slips easily into the center of each potato, 50 to 60 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Grate the zest from 1 orange and chop finely. Halve and juice both oranges, straining out any seeds. (You will have about 2/3 cup fresh orange juice.)

When cool enough to handle, peel the sweet potatoes and cut the flesh into chunks.

Working in batches if necessary, combine the sweet potato chunks, orange zest, orange juice, ginger, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a food processor. Process, pulsing the machine on and off and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until smooth. (Alternatively, the mixture can be beaten with an electric mixer.) Taste, adding more salt to taste, or honey, if using. Serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Just before serving, reheat gently in a double boiler or heavy saucepan, or in the microwave. Makes about 5 1/2 cups, to serve 6.