Peggy Fallon

Seeing Red

April 9, 2015 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Don’t risk sleeping in on a Saturday this month, for arriving late at the farmers’ market might cause you to miss the debut of one of spring’s edible blessings.

The market is coming into full bloom, beginning with truckloads of cool-weather crops like locally-grown asparagus, tender artichokes, fava beans, celery, peas-in-the-pod, and super-sweet sugar snap peas. Fragrant strawberries proliferate, followed closely by juicy little cherries. But don’t stop there. Look closely and you’ll also find a lesser heralded shade of red—one that always triggers childhood memories for me.

My father was the gardener in our family, and maintained a good-sized patch of rhubarb in the backyard. As kids we considered this oddly-named plant very old-fashioned. While modern American moms threw together a Tunnel of Fudge Cake or some other gooey concoction, our Irish mother would bake a rhubarb pie. From scratch. You can only imagine our embarrassment.

By some cosmic twist of fate I ended up with a man who also happened to love rhubarb, so every spring I would dream up new ways to serve it. Rhubarb in the morning. Rhubarb in the evening. Rhubarb at suppertime.

I once made the following recipe for a friend’s annual potluck, and the fresh-outta-the-oven aroma wafting from the trunk kept us salivating all the way across the Golden Gate Bridge.

When The Cookbook Author arrived at the party, friends excitedly asked what I brought for dessert. Most could barely conceal their disappointment when I answered, “Rhubarb Crisp.”

After a leisurely lunch—and fittingly fortified by several glasses of wine—each of the biggest skeptics politely sampled a tiny spoonful of the crisp—paired with a huge scoop of vanilla ice cream. And then I watched them return to the buffet for more…this time omitting the ice cream. And then suddenly the crisp was all gone, and the host was good-naturedly complaining there wouldn’t be any leftover for his breakfast the next morning. This was followed by plenty of comments from incredulous guests saying things like, “I guess I do like rhubarb…” and, of course, requests for the recipe.

Instead of a more traditional oatmeal crumb topping, this version blankets sweet-tart rhubarb with a buttery-rich, almost cookie-like layer made all the better with the crunch of California walnuts and a hit of ground cinnamon.

The moral of the story is to keep an open mind. Cherries and berries are not the only way in which spring casts its rosy glow on our lives. If you can read this you are no longer 3 years old; so no matter how icky the idea of something may sound to you, trust Mother Nature. She only deals in the good stuff.

Rhubarb Revelations
-The thick, celery-like stalks of rhubarb can reach up to 2 feet long. The leaves of the plant must be discarded before cooking, as they contain oxalic acid and are therefore toxic. (Relax. For this very reason, rhubarb is never sold with the leaves attached. I just threw in this warning for any home gardeners out there.)

-A good source of fiber and Vitamin A, flavorful field-grown rhubarb has cherry-red stalks and green leaves. Its peak season is April through June.

-Hothouse-grown rhubarb, available year-round in many supermarkets, has a milder flavor, yellow-green leaves, and pinkish stalks that cook up to a not-so-appetizing gray…which is why many recipes suggest combining it with strawberries or a few drops of red food coloring.

-Choose crisp, brightly colored stalks with fresh-looking stems. To store, refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Buying rhubarb at the farmers’ market ensures freshness…making no competition for the lonely stalks of limp, dry, or bruised rhubarb that languish in supermarket produce aisles.

-Rhubarb has undergone some gender re-assignment over the years: Although considered a fruit, botanically it’s really a vegetable.

-Known as “pie plant” in some areas, rhubarb is always combined with a fair amount of sweetener to tame its natural tartness.

RHUBARB CRISP

For the Cinnamon-Walnut Topping
1 1/4 cups coarsely chopped California-grown walnuts
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
1/2 cup (packed) dark or light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool.
2. Using an electric mixer or a wooden spoon, mix together the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar until creamy and well blended.
3. In medium bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. Whisk gently to blend. Gradually beat the dry ingredients into the butter mixture until just blended. Stir in the walnuts.
4. Loosely pack the mixture into a bowl or a heavy-duty plastic food storage bag. Freeze until very firm, at least 4 hours or as long as 1 month.

For the Rhubarb Filling
3 pounds fresh California-grown rhubarb
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Dash of salt
Finely grated zest of 1 California-grown orange
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 2 1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish. Rinse the rhubarb stalks under cold running water and discard any leaves. Cut stalks crosswise into pieces about 3/4-inch thick. (You’ll have 9 to 10 cups.)
2. In a large bowl, mix together the sugar, flour, salt, and orange zest. Add the orange juice and rhubarb, tossing to coat with the sugar mixture. Scrape into the prepared baking dish.
3. Use a large knife to chop the frozen Cinnamon-Walnut Topping; then scatter the chunks and bits over the fruit. Bake until the topping is golden and the rhubarb is tender and bubbly-hot, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm, at room temperature, or lightly chilled. Serves 10 to 12.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well

Of Cabbages and Kings

March 10, 2015 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

“An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup.” H.L. Mencken

Before immigrating to the United States in the 1920’s, my parents had never heard of eating corned beef with cabbage. Once here, they quickly adopted the American St. Patrick’s Day tradition expected of all good Irishmen… and not-so-Irish-men.

Unfortunately the one-pot-wonder-recipe my mother found in a newspaper involved boiling the life out of everything until the beef was fork-tender (a good thing), the potatoes had reduced to a watery pulp (not such a good thing), and the only thing holding the cabbage together was its overpowering stench. No wonder people drink green beer.

That was then and this is now. It’s time to give cabbage its due respect. High in fiber and low in cost and calories (a mere 22 for 1 cup of uncooked chopped cabbage!), there is good reason why it has been savored all over the world since ancient times. Braised, steamed, stir-fried, stuffed, or raw for slaw, this cruciferous vegetable contains a goodly amount of vitamin C as well as some vitamin A.

Colcannon is a classic Irish dish that showcases the less scary side of cabbage. To make it, simply stir cooked cabbage into buttery, freshly mashed potatoes. When entertaining, however, I often introduce cabbage to an old standby potato recipe that can be made a day or two in advance. (The addition of cream cheese, though barely perceptible, acts as a stabilizer to keep the spuds creamy.) I happen to prefer the texture of potatoes whipped with an electric mixer, but feel free to go old-school and mash them by hand.

This may not be the best choice for weight watchers, but St. Patrick’s Day comes but once a year.

Make-Ahead Colcannon

10 medium russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (about 3 1/2 pounds total), skins on, scrubbed clean
6 tablespoons butter, plus extra for greasing the baking dish, at room temperature
1 small head of cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and thinly sliced or chopped (to make 3 to 4 cups)
1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream, half-and-half, or whole milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Paprika and/or chopped fresh chives or parsley for garnish

1. In a large pot, boil the potatoes in salted water until tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain in a colander. When cool enough to handle, peel if desired.

2. In the same pot, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Using an electric mixer, mix together the cream cheese, cream, and another 2 tablespoons of the butter until blended. Gradually add the hot potatoes, beating after each addition until smooth and soft. Stir in the cabbage. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Spoon the potato mixture into abuttered 2- to 2 1/2 quart baking dish or ovenproof casserole. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoonsof butter and drizzle over the top. (At this point, potatoes can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days; return to room temperature before reheating. Or, if potatoes are made only 2 hours before serving, refrigeration is unnecessary; leave in a cool spot, covered, at room temperature.)

5. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Bake, uncovered, until heated through and lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes. (Alternatively, reheat in the microwave.) Just before serving, dust lightly with paprika and sprinkle chives over the top. Serves 8 to 10, though—since this reheats beautifully—you will probably want leftovers for the next day.

Variations:
–Use an equal amount of thinly sliced kale instead of cabbage.
–Or, for a make-ahead version of another Irish classic called Champ (one of my dad’s favorites), substitute 1 bunch of thinly sliced green onions (scallions) for the cabbage.

Cabbage Trivia
–Cabbage varieties include the commonplace pale green (often bordering on white), red, crinkly Savoy, the elongated Chinese Napa cabbage, and bokchoy.

–A member of the mustard family, cabbage has a long list of relatives that includes broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, kohlrabi, turnips, and rutabaga.

–The word cabbage is a derivation of the French word caboche, a common term for “head.”

–Just-picked cabbage does not deteriorate as quickly as many other vegetables, but does lose moisture when refrigerated. Many farmers’ market growers harvest their cabbage once or twice a week so it doesn’t remain too long in a cooler. Because of this, farmers’ market shoppers get a sweeter, crisper, juicier cabbage than they would find in a supermarket.

–Look for cabbages that are firm and feel heavy for their size.

–Store farm-fresh cabbage in an open plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

–Unadorned cabbage makes a great backdrop for other flavors. For variety when cooking, add bits of bacon, prosciutto, or pancetta; caraway or fennel seed; onion; garlic; or fresh herbs to enhance flavor. Dried fruit or freshly sliced apple are also nice additions; or simply toss cooked cabbage with freshly grated Parmesan cheese just before serving.

Hearts, Flowers, and Produce

February 7, 2015 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

I’ve learned to write 2015 on my checks. The cymbidium orchid in my patio is covered with blooms. After a month of sensible eating, the December weight gain is now a distant memory. We’ve finally had some rain; and occasionally I catch a whiff of spring in the air. I say it’s time to get this New Year started.

Valentine’s Day comes at a time when everyone needs a little pick-me-up. We’ve had enough of the January doldrums. It’s time for a bit of romance…even if it involves no more than one simple act of kindness.

No sweetheart? No problem. Just about anyone—including you—deserves to feel special on Valentine’s Day. There are plenty of ways to do this. You can pass out greeting cards, just like you did in second grade. Flowers are another easy out—and you will find gorgeous, just-picked bouquets at the farmers’ market at rock-bottom prices. And then there are gifts of food. This holiday is already heavily laden with chocolate; and believe it or not, some people don’t even like it that much.Why not celebrate the season with a culinary quickie? It’s Valentine’s Day. Live a little!

No doubt strawberries will probably get sweeter and cheaper as the season progresses; but for now–after months of eating apples and citrus–I simply cannot resist them. Strawberries are a sign that spring is on its way. And you can rest assured the flavor of locally grown strawberries will surpass that of any shipped here from another hemisphere.

Spice up your day with this whimsical take on chips-and-salsa for dessert, or enjoy itas a snack while snuggled up on the sofa watching your favorite chick flick. Strawberry salsa is equally good spooned over ice cream or slices of angel food or pound cake. Omit the jalapeno if you must; or add a couple of peeled and chopped kiwi fruit for variation. It’s all good.

Strawberry-Mint Salsa with Cinnamon-Spiced Tortilla Chips

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 1/2 tablespoons local honey
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 jalapeño or serrano chile pepper
2 pints farm-fresh strawberries (about 1 pound total), hulled and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh mint leaves
Cinnamon-Spiced Tortilla Chips (recipe follows) or Cinnamon Pita Chips

1. In a large bowl, mix together the lime juice, honey, and salt.

2. Wearing rubber gloves, remove the stem, seeds, and ribs from the chile and chop finely. Add to the lime mixture; then gently stir in the strawberries and mint to combine. Serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Makes about 2 cups.

Cinnamon-Spiced Tortilla Chips

6 (7-inch) flour tortillas
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) melted butter
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Stack the tortillas on top of each other and cut into 6 pie-shaped wedges. (Alternatively, cut the tortillas into strips or irregularly shaped, elongated triangles.)

2. Lay the tortilla wedges flat in a single layer on 1 or more parchment- or foil-lined baking sheets. Lightly brush each wedge with butter.

3. In a small bowl, mix the sugar with the cinnamon until well blended. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tortillas and bake until crisp, 10 to 12minutes. Let cool completely. Serve at once, or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.To serve, have each guest spoon salsa onto a chip. Makes 36 chips.

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Strawberry Savvy

–A shiny berry is a fresh berry. Once picked, strawberries lose their natural sheen in a matter of days.

–Fresh green caps, intense perfume, and vibrant, uniform color are other qualities to look for in strawberries. Avoid those “white shoulders” that mean the berries were picked before their prime. And when it comes to strawberries, bigger is not always better!

–When stored properly, farm-fresh strawberries last 1 week or longer in the refrigerator. (Oh yes they do.) Here’s the secret: Line a plastic container with a paper towel to absorb moisture. Gently pile in the unwashed strawberries with their green caps intact. Top with another paper towel, seal with an airtight lid, and refrigerate.

–Never rinse strawberries or remove their green caps until just before using. Rinsing berries removes their naturally protective outer layer; and their caps prevent water from soaking into the strawberries, diluting the flavor and altering their texture.

–To clean strawberries, place them in a colander or large sieve and rinse quickly under a gentle spray of cold water. Pat dry with towels; then remove the green caps, if desired.

–To hull strawberries (i.e., remove the green caps), use the sharp tip of a paring knife; the pointed end of a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler; or a strawberry huller—an inexpensive tweezer-like gadget available at most cookware shops. This removes not only the leafy green cap, but also the tough little white core beneath it.

–1 cup of halved raw strawberries weighs in at around 49 calories. They are a good source of vitamin C, and also contain potassium, iron, and folic acid.

Starting Fresh

January 9, 2015 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Following summer’s wild kaleidoscope of seasonal produce, the farmers’ market may seem a bit tame this month. Stroll through at a leisurely pace, however, and you’ll see there are still plenty of delicious bargains to be had. Look for an array of delicate Asian vegetables; plenty of crisp celery; cruciferous vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts; numerous varieties of lettuce; tender spinach; sweet potatoes; russet potatoes;the often-overlooked parsnip; winter squash; crisp apples; juicy citrus; and fuzzy little kiwi. Shopping at the farmers’ market is the ideal way to begin the New Year—when both healthy eating and thrift are top priorities.

Carrots are available year ‘round, so it’s easy to take them for granted. That is, until you bite into a slightly bitter supermarket carrot with a tasteless, woody core. One taste of a sweet, farm-fresh carrot will remind you what all the fuss is about. As an added bonus, dark orange vegetables like sweet potatoes, winter squash, and carrots provide immune-nourishing beta carotene.

While I’ve got you thinking orange, let’s talk “baby carrots” here. Americans seem to have a soft-spot for anything labeled “baby,” and those ubiquitous little cellophane bags of carrots have captured the heart of our nation. Adults appreciate this effortless addition to any crudité platter; and kids love to nibble on them—with or without a dip for dunking. These “babies” naturally make a better food choice than a lot of other snack foods, providing you understand there is really nothing youthful about them. Some ingenious entrepreneur decided to whittle away the coarse outer layer from oversized carrots to create these finger-friendly snacks with the adorable name. For the best flavor, look for genuine baby carrots at the farmers market: they’re definitely young and tender— with their green tops still attached as proof of freshness.

Snacking is all well and good, but winter calls for comfort food….and nothing beats a soup supper on a blustery evening. Roasting the carrots in the oven deepens their flavor, and fills your kitchen with tantalizing aromas. All that’s needed to complete the meal is a green salad and a loaf of artisan whole grain bread from the farmers’ market. Leftover soup will keep several days in the refrigerator, or you can freeze it for longer storage.

Carrot Tips
–Carrots, with their feathery green leaves and long, tapered roots, are members of the parsley family.
–At the farmers’ market we’ll often see “boutique” carrots in unexpected hues of deep red and other earth tones. The difference in flavor is negligible, but their color adds interest to stews and crudité platters.
–Other farmers like to experiment growing less common varieties of orange carrots that may be round or appear otherwise misshapen. Be sure to ask the grower about them, as they are often surprisingly sweet and flavorful.
–Healthy green tops are a sign of freshness—which is why most supermarkets sell only “clip top” carrots. Without the tops to give away their age, carrots can be weeks or even months old.
–It is best remove carrot tops immediately after purchase, as they eventually draw vitamins and moisture from the carrots.
–Yes, carrot tops are indeed edible, though sometimes slightly bitter. Use them as you would parsley.
–Carrots should be stored in a plastic bag in the crisper-drawer of the refrigerator.
–Should carrots become limp, re-crisp them in a bowl of ice water.
–Young carrots and (real) baby carrots are thin-skinned and therefor require only a light rinsing. Older carrots develop a tough outer skin, and should be peeled before using.
–1 cup of chopped raw carrots weighs in at a mere 52 calories. They are high in Vitamin A, and a good source of Vitamin C.

Roasted Carrot Soup with Warm Spices
2 pounds medium-to-large farm-fresh carrots, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
2 tablespoons California olive oil
1 teaspoon Madras curry powder
Fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
4 cups (32 ounces) homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
2 1/2 cups water
Plain yogurt and/or coarsely chopped fresh cilantro or carrot tops for garnish Optional: Lime wedges for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a baking sheet, drizzle the carrots with olive oil and sprinkle with curry powder, 1 teaspoon of salt, the cumin, and cayenne. Toss gently to coat. Spread the carrots into an even layer and cook, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned at the edges, about 45 minutes.

2. In a soup pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ginger and cook 5 minutes longer, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown.

3. Carefully scrape the roasted carrots and their juices into the pot. Stir in the chicken stock and water. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, until the carrots are very tender, about 45 minutes.

4. Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree until smooth. (Alternatively, let cool. Then, working in batches, purée in a food processor or blender.) Taste, adding more salt or spices if needed. To serve, ladle into bowls and garnish with a dollop of yogurt and a sprinkling of cilantro. Pass lime wedges at the table, for guests to squeeze into soup. Makes about 7 1/2 cups, to serve 4 to 6.

Ending on a Sweet Note

December 8, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

‘Tis the Season of Lists. Greeting card lists. Gift lists.Grocery lists. To-do lists. Lists to remind me to consolidate earlier lists. It seems I’ve barely perfected the pumpkin arrangement in my entryway and suddenly it’s time to get serious about the Holidays. Yes, the ones that begin with a capital H.

Amidst all the madness, I find it comforting to take refuge at the farmers’ market—where I’ll never hear the beep of an electronic scanning machine or the tedious repetition of recorded Christmas carols. This low-tech approach to shopping in the fresh air delivers just about everything I need for entertaining, as well as plenty of creative ideas for gifts of good taste.

Instead of slapping a bow on yet another bottle of wine this year, how about offering the golden luxury of California extra virgin olive oil to your favorite home chef? There are crisp apples, voluptuous pears, and fragrant oranges and tangerines just waiting to be tucked inside a wicker gift basket. The early risers on your list will delight in a gift of artfully preserved jams and locally-produced honey for their morning indulgence.The floral selection at the farmers’ market is also more spectacular than ever this month, with fresh-cut flowers intermingled with top-quality plants and evergreens at bargain prices. Bakers and snackers alike will appreciate this year’s harvest of crunchy California walnuts and almonds, and a sweet spectrum of moist dried California fruits.

While perusing the aisles at the farmers’ market, take time to consider the thoughtfulness of a homemade gift-from-the-kitchen. Even if you didn’t spend your summer putting up pickles and preserves, there’s still time for some quick-fixes. Spicy-sweet nuts, packed in a cellophane bag and secured with a festive bow, make a welcome gift and a satisfying nibble to enjoy throughout the season. (They also fill your kitchen with wonderful aromas while baking.)

Candied citrus peel—made from something you would normally toss in the compost pile—is far superior to anything store-bought. And another way to show you care. If you can resist snacking throughout the day, serve the candied peel with coffee at the end of a meal; chop finely and stir into muffin or cake batter, or into scone or sweet-bread dough; dip in dark chocolate; or use as an edible garnish for desserts or cookie platters. For variation, use tangelo, pink grapefruit, Meyer lemon, or other thick-skinned citrus instead of orange. (Thin citrus skins, like those from limes,can turn leathery when candied.) For best results, don’t make these on a rainy or humid day. A certain amount of dryness in the air helps set the sugar-coating.

Sugar & Spice Walnuts

2 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tablespoons water
1 pound California walnut halves (about 4 cups), or a combination of your favorite nuts
1 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat, or grease lightly. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg whites and water until foamy. Add the walnuts, stirring to coat well. Transfer the mixture to a colander in the sink and let drain for 2 to 3 minutes. Wipe the mixing bowl dry with paper towels.

2. In the same bowl, combine the sugar, cinnamon, salt, ginger, allspice, cayenne, cloves, and nutmeg. Stir to blend. Add the walnuts and toss to coat well.

3. Spread the nuts in a single layer (without touching) on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until the sugar mixture has caramelized to make a crunchy, candy-like coating, about 2 hours. Let cool completely before storing in an airtight container at room temperature. Makes about 4 cups.

Candied Orange Peel

4 large navel oranges (about 3 pounds), rinsed well
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1. Using a sharp knife, cut off both the ends of the oranges. Cut the orange lengthwise into quarters, then—following the curve of the fruit— cut away the orange zest along with a very thin layer of the white pith. (Leave most of the white pith attached to the fruit.) Slice the peels lengthwise into strips about 1/4-inch thick. Reserve the fruit for another use.

2. Put the orange strips in a heavy 3-quartsaucepanand add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for 5 minutes.

3. Drain the strips in a colander. Return to the saucepan and cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook again for 5 minutes. Repeat the process once more, making a total of cooking 3 times. (This will remove any bitterness from the skins.)

4. In the same saucepan, combine 1 1/2 cups of the sugar with 1 cup of water. Stir to blend, then bring to a boil over high heat. Add the orange strips and reduce the heat to low. Let the orange strips cook very gently, stirring occasionally to prevent burning and ensure they cook evenly,for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the strips begin to turn translucent.

5. Carefully drain the strips, reserving the syrup for another use (like brushing over a cake or adding to cocktails.) Set a rack over a parchment- or foil-lined baking sheet.

6. Put the remaining 1 cup of sugar into a bowl. Working in batches, roll the peels in the sugar to coat; shake in a sieve to remove any excess sugar;and spread on the rack so they are not touching. Let dry until no longer sticky, 5 to 6 hours. Store between layers of waxed paper in an airtight container at cool room temperature for up to 1 month. Makes about 3 cups.

Thanksgiving…One Bite at a Time

November 6, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

I do most of my Thanksgiving shopping in the fresh air at the farmers’ market—where the just-picked produce is both healthy and locally grown. I also take comfort knowing the money I spend there goes directly to the people who grow the food we eat, instead of some mysterious multi-national conglomerate. It’s just one more way of giving thanks.

This month I’ll stock up on freshly-harvested walnuts and almonds to enhance everything from appetizers to desserts; plump raisins, dried apricots, and other dried fruits; just-picked lettuce; pure fruit juices; sugar pumpkins and crisp apples for pies; acorn and other traditional winter squash for roasting; artisan bread, aromatic extra-virgin olive oil, sweet onions, celery, parsley, and garlic to make the best turkey dressing ever; tender young carrots; broccoli; Brussels sprouts; sweet potatoes; locally-produced honey; russet potatoes and Yukon Golds for mashing; beeswax candles and all other matter of flora, fauna, fruits, and veggies to make a spectacular yet affordable still-life centerpiece for my table. (After being admired for their beauty, all the produce will be consumed over the next week or so.) Inevitably I’ll also add a few more gourds and pumpkins to the welcoming displays on my front porch and mantel. It’s time to splurge. Thanksgiving comes only once a year!

The traditional feast means more than turkey and sides. Even if appetizers are not part of your usual game-plan, the leisurely pace of Thanksgiving requires a little something extra to quell hunger until dinner is ready. Forget the greasy potato chips and the ubiquitous plastic platter of icy, overcooked shrimp from the supermarket. C’mon folks. We can do better than that.

I happen to think a tray of crunchy farm-fresh crudités is the perfect answer, made all the better with a creamy dipping sauce. I’ve included the recipe for such a dip below, and guarantee it is going to taste better than anything you buy in a plastic tub at the warehouse store.

If you want to get a little fancier, “Figs in Blankets” may be just the right thing. I like to serve these yummy morsels on a bed of baby arugula leaves, so guests can grab a leaf or two along with a warm fig to add a peppery bit of freshness to each bite.

And if time is of the essence, I’ve added a few quick-fixes that should keep everyone happy. Even if your team is losing the game on television.

Fresh Spinach Dip with Feta and Dill

6 cups (loosely packed) fresh baby spinach leaves (about 5 ounces)
1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
1/8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta or goat cheese
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill weed, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
Dash of cayenne pepper

1. Rinse the spinach in a large bowl of cold water. Drain but do not dry, so some water still clings to the leaves. Place the damp spinach in a large heavy nonreactive saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring once or twice, until the spinach is bright green and wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a colander to drain. When cool enough to handle, squeeze dry with your hands.

2. In a food processor or blender, combine the garlic and salt. Process until the garlic is finely chopped. Add the ricotta and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula as needed. Add the feta, olive oil, lemon juice, dill, and cayenne. Process, pulsing the machine on and off, until blended. Transfer to a small serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 1 hour or overnight to blend flavors. Makes about 1 3/4 cups, to serve 8 to 10.

Figs in Blankets

6 to 8 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into 24 strips about 2- x 4-inches
About 4 ounces California goat cheese (or brie, Cambozola, or other soft cheese), well-chilled
12 small fresh figs (any variety), halved lengthwise; or 6 large figs, quartered
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons local honey
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
Arugula leaves, for serving
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350˚. Working in batches if necessary, arrange 24 prosciutto strips on a work surface. Place a fig half, cut-side-up, toward the bottom of each strip and top with about 1/2 teaspoon of cheese.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, honey, and thyme. Drizzle a bit of the sauce lightly over the cheese and roll to enclose the figs in prosciutto. Secure with a toothpick and arrange 2-inches apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until the prosciutto is very lightly browned at the edges and the cheese is soft but not melted, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Arrange the Figs in Blankets on a bed of arugula and drizzle each with a bit more of the remaining balsamic-honey mixture. Sprinkle lightly with freshly ground pepper and serve warm, not hot. Makes 24.

5 Almost-Instant Appetizers for the Harried Host

1. Serve tiny mild “breakfast” radishes alongside crusty slices ofartisan bread, best-quality unsalted butter, and a tiny bowl of coarse salt. Leave the greens on the radishes to use as a “handle” for grabbing.

2. Roll a log of fresh California goat cheese inchopped toasted almonds and dried cherries. Serve at room temperature with baguette slices.

3. Unmold a tub of mascarpone or cream cheese onto a small plate and top with fresh pomegranate seeds, finely chopped crystallized (candied) ginger, a finely chopped green onion, and a drizzle of honey.

4. Compose a fall fruit-and-cheese platter with store bought cheeses, wedges of Fuyu persimmon, apples, or pears; fresh figs, grape clusters,dried apricots, and/or toasted California walnuts.

5. Cut a cucumber into 1/2-inch thick slices. Pipe or spoon a bit of cream cheese onto each cucumber round and top with a piece of smoked salmon and a tiny sprig of fresh dill.

If you’d like to expand your entertaining repertoire—and have a lot of fun in the process—check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Cooking School at Blackhawk on Thursday, November 13, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, orcall 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

Getting Squashed

October 9, 2014 by Peggy Fallon 1 Comment

I always relish the gentle change of seasons, but the transition from summer to autumn may be my favorite time of all. Nowhere is this evolution more apparent than at the farmers’ market, where the vibrant shades of summer produce are gradually replaced by soft golden hues that mimic the colors of autumn leaves. We now have the opportunity to savor the last of the vine-ripened tomatoes while we celebrate the arrival of fall’s winter squash and fuzzy kiwi fruit. The best of both worlds.

Crisp mornings, shorter days, and cozy evenings at home rekindle my nesting instinct. No trip to the farmers’ market is complete without a wreath for the front door; an armload of unripe persimmons destined for display in a favorite blue and white china bowl; or a family of big bumpy pumpkins and other winter squash to decorate the front porch. But if you consider winter squash to be purely decorative, you’re missing out on a lot.

Everybody seems to understand summer squash. There’s nothing terribly mysterious about zucchini. But winter squash? Not so much. Summer squash is harvested while the skins and seeds are still young and tender. Winter squash have mature, hard rinds and seeds that require toasting to be edible. That’s as complicated as it gets. Sure, winter squash can be huge and unwieldy, but all that’s needed to unleash the magic is a sharp knife and a bit of confidence…which comes easily with a little experience.

Look for squash with no nicks, soft spots, or signs of decay. Uncut, their thick shells form a protective barrier around the flesh so they remain fresh at cool room temperatures for months….which makes those temporary decorative uses around the house not so frivolous after all! Winter squash should be refrigerated only after it has been cut. If you want to prepare for the months ahead, cooked, pureed squash can be frozen for up to 3 months.

Winter squash is amazingly versatile: cut it into cubes, seasoned, and roasted for gluten-free “croutons”; pureed for soups, or added to minestrone or other soups; sliced or cut into chunks for a side dish; added to lasagna or other pasta dishes; or paired with fresh sage and used as a filling for ravioli. Please also know that when pureed and seasoned, like pumpkin, butternut squash makes an incredibly good pie.

Friends seem to congregate more than ever this month, as our calendars begin to fill with gatherings of every variety. What to serve? Nothing is more familiar—or easier—than a quesadilla, but add an unexpected ingredient and these little triangles of gooey goodness jump to the next level.

This version was inspired by something I ate at a cozy little café in a coastal town in Washington state. I’m not instinctively drawn to coffee joints that serve nothing but their take on vegetarian food, but it was the only place open on this cool and drizzly afternoon. I still remember the look of barely-concealed horror on my (non-foodie) friend’s face when I ordered the day’s special, a butternut squash quesadilla. Although it was indeed served on a nasty whole wheat tortilla with far too little cheese (or maybe some crazy cheese substitute), I knew the flavor combination had definite possibilities. And so I got to work.

These make a zesty appetizer to serve with cocktails; or a perfectly satisfying light lunch, served alongside a big tossed green salad. They’re so good, you may even convert a horrified friend.

Quesadillas with Butternut Squash and Chiles

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for brushing the griddle
6 ounces peeled and seeded butternut or other winter squash, coarsely grated or finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
2 green onions (scallions), thinly sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons seeded and finely chopped jalapeño or serrano chile pepper
1 garlic clove, minced or crushed through a press
1 to 1 1/2 cups (4 to 6 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack cheese
4 (7-inch) flour tortillas
Chipotle Crema and fresh cilantro, for garnish

1. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the squash and season with salt and cumin. Cook, stirring, until just tender, for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the green onions, jalapeño, and garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat.

2. Heat a griddle over medium-high heat until hot. (Alternatively, cook quesadillas one-or-two-at-a-time in large skillet.)

3. Brush the griddle lightly with oil and add the tortillas, leaving some space between them. Spread one-fourth of the squash mixture over half of each tortilla; then sprinkle evenly with cheese. Fold the tortillas in half.

4. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until lightly browned, before flipping them over with a spatula. Continue cooking until the cheese is melted and bubbly-hot on the inside and the tortillas are lightly browned on the outside, for 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a cutting board.

5. Using a pizza wheel or a large knife, cut each quesadilla into 3 pie-shaped wedges. If desired, pipe or drizzle a bit of Chipotle Crema over the top of each wedge. Sprinkle with coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, or garnish the platter with cilantro sprigs. Makes 12 wedges, to serve 3 to 4.

To make Chipotle Crema:

In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup sour cream and a pinch of salt.
Mix in 1/2 to 1 teaspoon (to taste) minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce. Stir until blended. Use at once, or cover and refrigerate.

Variations:

–If you still find corn at the farmers’ market, slice the kernels from one large ear and add them to the squash mixture before cooking.
–Grated zucchini or thin shreds of kale also make delicious additions. (And are an easy way to sneak more vegetables into your diet.)
— Adding well-drained cooked black beans to the squash mixture provides additional fiber…and the appropriate color combination for Halloween!
–This recipe is easily doubled, making it ideal for casual gatherings with friends….or snacks for little boys and ghouls.

If you’re looking to expand your entertaining repertoire—and have a lot of fun in the process—check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Cooking School at Blackhawk on Tuesday, October 28, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

Hail to the Sprout

September 14, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

You either love them or hate them. There doesn’t seem to be any middle-ground on the subject of Brussels sprouts. I’ve given up trying to convert picky eaters. I figure their culinary prejudice is their loss and my gain.

A new crop of Brussels sprouts arrives at the farmers’ market this month, right along with dates, figs, and pomegranates (I’m convinced this is nature’s way of softening the blow that summer is almost over). There’s no point in waiting until Thanksgiving to start enjoying these gifts of early autumn. Be the first on your block to get them while they’re young and tender!

The only thing I don’t like about Brussels sprouts is their name. Brussels? Really? Anyone who has driven through California’s cool-weather regions knows that long ago we staked claim to these tiny cabbage-like veggies. Just as the once-imported Belgian endive has now become California endive (from our very own Rio Vista), I think these cruciferous cuties deserve an updated moniker. But hey, that’s just me.

Brussels sprouts have gotten a bad rap from the poor cooking methods used by our unwitting ancestors. Even I will admit that a pot of sprouts boiling away on top of the stove produces an unappetizing aroma (and I’m being really diplomatic here) that is enough to scare off both children and adults. Fortunately there’s an easy fix. Sprouts actually smell divine when roasted in the oven. Who knew? To serve them as a side-dish at dinner, just follow Step 1 of the recipe below. They will rock your world.

For better or worse, family recipes have been passed down for generations. The internet now provides access to the wisdom of good cooks all over the world. Okay, there are some horrible recipes out there, but for the most part, the internet is an endless source of information.

Following is my adaptation of a recipe found on the very reliable www.food52.com. The headnote to the recipe explains the creator had wanted to duplicate the flavors of an appetizer she enjoyed at a New York restaurant. Well, I’ve never been to that restaurant but I tried her interpretation and liked it. A lot. Then I tweaked it a bit to create my own version….and so another recipe was born. Once you try these, you may decide to put your own touch on them…and that’s fine. Just make them.

One of the ingredients I use is something you won’t find on a grocery shelf, but it’s very easy to make. Years ago I was introduced to garlic honey by L. John Harris, luminary in the Berkeley food scene of the 1970’s and author of The Book of Garlic and The Official Garlic Lovers Handbook. I shared his recipe in this column a couple of years back, but it deserves repeating. I rank its creation right up there with the invention of the wheel. I am simply crazy about the way garlic lends its punch to good local honey, adding an unexpected dimension to savory recipes.

The next time you gather with friends, serve these Crispy Brussels Sprouts with drinks. It’s a fool proof way to separate the lovers from the haters.

Sprouted Thoughts

–Brussels sprouts are believed to have first been cultivated in 16th-century Belgium.
–Look for small, bright green sprouts with compact heads and no yellowing. The smaller the sprouts, the more tender they will be.
–If you buy sprouts that are still on the stalk, leave them there until you’re ready to cook. It will keep them from drying out.
–Refrigerate unwashed sprouts in an airtight plastic bag for up to 5 days, though using them sooner rather than later is a good idea. After about 3 days off the stalk, sprouts will begin to develop a strong flavor.
–Remember that sprouts purchased at the farmers’ market have been harvested within 24 hours. Sprouts from the supermarket? Um, not so much.
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Crispy Brussels sprouts with Garlic Honey, Sriracha, and Lime

2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved through the stem end
3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt, or more to taste
6 tablespoons Garlic Honey (recipe follows) or plain local honey
2 tablespoons Sriracha hot sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
1 tablespoon soy sauce

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. On a baking sheet, toss the Brussels sprouts with enough oil to coat generously. Season with salt and toss again. Arrange the sprouts in a single layer, cut-side down. Cook, shaking the pan once or twice to prevent sticking, until the sprouts are browned at the edges and tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 20 to 25 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the honey, Sriracha, lime juice, and soy sauce.

3. Scrape the warm Brussels sprouts into the Sriracha mixture, tossing to coat. Taste, adding more salt or lime juice if needed. Transfer to a warm shallow bowl or platter and serve at once with cocktail picks. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

Garlic Honey
12 ounces local honey (about 1 scant cup)
5 to 6 California garlic cloves, crushed with the flat side of a knife and peeled

1. In a small saucepan, combine the honey and garlic. Cook over low heat until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Pour the mixture into a jar or other airtight container and let stand 48 hours at room temperature to blend flavors.

2. Strain the honey through a sieve and discard the garlic. Use at once, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using. Makes about 1 cup.

Garlic Honey can also be used as an accompaniment to cornbread or biscuits; drizzled over a wedge of Gorgonzola cheese or fresh whole-milk ricotta; or as a last-minute basting glaze for pork, chicken, or duck.

Glorious Grapes

August 10, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Fresh corn and watermelons abound. The earthy fragrance of vine-ripened tomatoes and glistening strawberries perfume the summer mornings. The disappointment that comes with the waning profusion of locally-grown blueberries and blackberries is tempered only by the arrival of early apples and table grapes. It’s August at the farmers’ market.

Grapes evoke childhood memories: the cold mouthful of juicy sweetness plucked directly from the stem, one by one. The two or three anemic specimens you could always count on finding in a can of fruit cocktail. Grape was arguably the most coveted flavor for sugary drinks, chewing gum (!), and Popsicles (it was probably revered as much for its staining ability as its taste). Concord grape jelly elevated the peanut butter-on-white-bread sandwich to gourmet heights.

As our culinary horizons expanded, grapes became the ubiquitous garnish for any cheese platter. Savory dishes starring grapes—like the French classic Chicken Veronique—were considered wildly exotic. Every fancy banquet table was garnished with clusters of seedless grapes “frosted” with sugar. Film buffs laughed at Mae West calling out, “Beulah, peel me a grape!” in the film She Done Him Wrong.

Grapes are the not-so-secret ingredient that helped make Neiman Marcus’ chicken salad legendary. We traveled and learned that Italians enjoy rich breads and olive oil cakes studded with wine grapes to celebrate the annual harvest. Pickled grapes often appear as a condiment on Thanksgiving tables. Table grapes make a fresh addition to many Waldorf salads, and a welcome departure when added to tabbouleh or other traditional salads.

I was once slightly horrified when the glass of Merlot I ordered in a hotel cocktail lounge was delivered in an oversized goblet with a bunch of seedless red grapes hanging over the rim. But that’s a whole other story. In most other cases, grapes are always appropriate.

For something light and nourishing—and definitely outside of the box— consider grape salsa. It can be made in a matter of minutes. As with any salsa it’s a natural with tortilla or pita chips, but this recipe also makes a cool and refreshing condiment for quesadillas or grilled chicken, pork, or fish; try it spooned alongside soft California goat cheese or a wedge of perfectly ripe Cambozola or brie. There’s nothing childish about it.

California Two-Grape Salsa

1 1/2 cups stemmed green seedless grapes, quartered or coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups stemmed red or black seedless grapes, quartered or coarsely chopped
2 green onions (scallions), chopped
3 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh mint leaves
1 jalapeño chile pepper, seeded if desired, and finely chopped
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large lime (or as needed)
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1. In a large bowl, combine the green grapes, red grapes, green onions, mint, jalapeño, lime zest and juice, and salt. Toss gently to mix. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to blend flavors.

2. Just before serving, toss again and taste, adding more lime juice or salt if needed. Makes about 3 cups, to serve four to six.

Grape Expectations
–Grapes grow in temperate zones throughout the world, including Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, and North and South America. California is the largest U.S. producer of grapes—both for wine and for the table.

–There are literally thousands of grape varieties, ranging from pale yellow to nearly black. They are categorized by color as well as the way they are used: for wine; for the table (such as Thompson seedless); or for commercial food production (e.g., Muscat grapes for raisins; and Concord grapes for jams, jellies, and juices.)

–Concord grapes are native to the U.S.; developed in 1854 by Ephraim Bull in Concord, Massachusetts.

–The tiny, tightly-clustered grapes sometimes labeled “champagne grapes” are not used at all for wine making. They are actually Corinth or Zante grapes–which are either eaten out of hand or dried for currants.

–Wine grapes are very high in acid, and therefore too tart for general eating. Likewise, table grapes make terrible wine.

–Buy grapes that are plump, fragrant, and still attached to the stem. (This keeps them fresher for longer.) The grapes should be firm, but not rock-hard.

–Once grapes are picked from the vine, they do not continue to ripen.

–A white bloom on the grape skin is simply an indication they have been handled minimally.

–Refrigerate unwashed grapes in a perforated plastic bag lined with a paper towel. They should keep for up to 7 days in the crisper drawer. Just before serving, rinse thoroughly with cold running water.

–Organic grapes have a shorter shelf-life than those grown conventionally, since no sulfur dioxide fumigation is used during storage.

–Red grapes contain the powerful antioxidant quercitan and the trace mineral boron, which is associated with brain power and bone strength.

–Freeze grapes to keep on hand as a healthy snack or light dessert during these warm days. Rinse and dry individual grapes, then flash-freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen, store in plastic bags for up to 2 weeks. Instant sorbet!

–1 cup of grapes weighs in at about 104 calories, and is a good source of vitamins C and K.

Mad for Melon

July 6, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

If you notice a white-haired woman sniffing all the produce at the farmers’ market on Saturday, it’s probably me. I simply can’t help myself. Tomatoes, cucumbers, garlic, bell peppers, peaches, nectarines, berries, and melons—each with its own distinctive fragrance when picked at the peak of perfection—rival any perfume you’ll find at the mall. You’ll rarely encounter any of these aromas under the fluorescent lights of a supermarket, either.

Along with truckloads of perfectly ripe berries and stone-fruits at the farmers’ market, this month we are further indulged with an abundance of just-picked corn and melons. I’m usually content to prepare these two things as simply as possible, so their true flavors shine through. Grill me an ear of corn or give me an ice-cold wedge of watermelon, and I’m one happy gal.

But just the other day I was transfixed by a photo on Pinterest. A close-up shot of glistening pale green honeydew melon chunks paired with fat little blackberries made for some first-class food porn. The addition of tiny arugula leaves and a few scattered bits of soft white cheese added a savory note. I was besotted.

I immediately clicked on the recipe link, only to find it was written in a foreign language that neither my computer nor I could decipher. But that gorgeous photo remained an inspiration, so I set off to the kitchen to create my own version.

Let’s just say I personally ate the whole thing within an eight-hour period. And I plan to make it again real soon, while locally-grown honeydew melon and blackberries are still sweet and juicy.

Here is my recipe. In English.

Farm-Fresh Honeydew-Blackberry Salad

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
3/4 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon California olive oil
1 small (2 1/2 to 3 pounds) green honeydew melon, peeled, seeded, and cut into
1-inch chunks (about 4 cups total)
1 1/4 cups (6 ounces) fresh blackberries
4 cups (loosely packed) baby arugula leaves
1/3 cup crumbled soft goat cheese

1. To make the salad dressing: In a large bowl, stir together the lime juice, honey, ginger, and salt. Mix in the olive oil.

2. Add the melon and blackberries. Toss gently to coat.

3. Spread an even layer of arugula in a large shallow bowl or platter. Pour the fruit mixture over the top, and sprinkle with cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

Cook’s Tip: For variation, omit the arugula and add 2 tablespoons of thinly sliced fresh mint leaves to the salad. Or spice things up with a finely chopped jalapeño chile pepper. When you cook with the best seasonal ingredients, it’s all good.

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Melon Primer

–To meet consumer demands, melons like cantaloupe and honeydew are sold in supermarkets throughout the year. Buying one often seems like a good idea—until you cut into it. Let’s just say these tasteless orbs are best left to the hemisphere in which they originated.

–Melons ripen only on the vine. Once picked, they will never get any riper or sweeter. In fact, their last few days on the vine are critical, as that is when most of the sugars develop, they become aromatic, and the blossom-end begins to soften.

–Melons destined for a grocery store are generally picked before fully ripe, so they will be firm enough to withstand shipping. They may soften during their journey, but they will never become fully ripe.

–Most supermarkets sell only the usual assortment of common melons. If you want to try something different, like the outrageously delish Sharlyn, you usually have to go to a roadside stand or the farmers’ market.

–Here are a few tips for choosing a ripe melon:
For so-called “netted” melons, like cantaloupe (that have skin with a net-like pattern), the background beneath the netting should be tan or gold, with no sign of green. They are fragrant; and the blossom end should give slightly to gentle pressure.

For smooth-skinned melons, like honeydew, look for a cream-colored exterior, rather than green. The skin should be velvety-smooth; and it’s okay if it feels slightly sticky. They are fragrant; and the blossom end should give slightly to gentle pressure.

Watermelon is a little trickier. A ripe one has hard, dull (rather than shiny) skin, and often develops a creamy yellow spot on the underside, where it rested on the ground. I’m always amused by people in the supermarket feverishly thumping and tapping melons to determine their ripeness. It’s so much easier at the farmers’ market, where you can just ask the grower directly.

–Whole melons can be kept for up to 1 week at room temperature, or 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Once the melon is cut, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

–Melons should be thoroughly rinsed with cold water before slicing.

–Melons are easily cut with a serrated bread knife, using a sawing motion. Both netted and smooth-skinned melons should be cut in half through the “equator”; then scoop out the seeds and strings with a spoon.

If you’d like to expand your entertaining repertoire—and have a lot of fun in the process—check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Cooking School at Blackhawk on Thursday, August 7, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.