Peggy Fallon

In the Pink

June 7, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

The farmers’ market is in full swing this month, brimming with early tomatoes and corn; crunchy little cucumbers; a splendid variety of juicy stone fruits—most notably short-seasoned apricots and cherries; a plump profusion of cantaloupe and other fragrant melons; and a kaleidoscope of jewel-like berries.

Sweet-tart boysenberries, blueberries, blackberries, and the ubiquitous strawberry—all at the peak of their seasons—seem to find their way into my market bag each week But as much as I hate to play favorites, it’s delicate, velvety raspberries I treasure most. Is there any more elegant and healthy breakfast than a bowl of raspberries crowned with a dollop of Greek yogurt?

Berry Interesting Facts

-There was a time when raspberries were wildly expensive; and still can be, when imported from South America and New Zealand. Buy them now at the farmers’ market,
when they are at their peak of ripeness and affordability.

-Like boysenberries and blackberries, raspberries are made up of clusters of tiny sacs that adhere to a central core. Each sac is bursting with sweet-tart juice.

-If the green hull is still attached to the raspberry, it means it was picked too early and will undoubtedly be tart.

-Although all taste similar, raspberries are available in red (actually a deep pink), golden, and the less common “black.”

-Unlike supermarket raspberries that have been enclosed in a plastic clamshell for an indeterminate length of time, farm-fresh berries should not be stuck together or moldy.

-To refrigerate raspberries, line a pan with paper towels and arrange the unwashed berries in a single layer. Top gently with another paper towel and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Berries are best eaten within 3 days.

-Raspberries are fragile. There is no way around it. If needed, carefully rinse them under a very gentle spray of cold water and pat dry with paper towels. (I rarely, if ever, rinse organically-grown raspberries.)

-Use uncooked raspberries in salads and compotes; smoothies; pureed in dessert sauces; perched atop fruit tarts, puddings, or other desserts; or baked into muffins, scones, or cakes. Raspberries also make an extravagant pie filling; as well as notable jams, jellies, and preserves.

-1 cup of raspberries weighs in at about 64 calories, 15 carbohydrates, and 8 grams of fiber. They are high in vitamin C and manganese, and contain fair amounts of iron and potassium.

-In addition to tasting better, fully-ripe raspberries contain significantly more antioxidants.

Here is my rendering of a recipe that appeared in Gourmet magazine about 5 years ago. This deceptively simple cake is ready for the oven in about 15 minutes, yet ends up tasting like it came from a chic pâtisserie. It’s lovely with a cup of tea or coffee in the afternoon, and makes a sophisticated dessert for a summer evening. Serve it au natural, or with a spoonful of sweetened crème fraiche, whipped cream, or frozen yogurt. And pray for leftovers.

Raspberry-Buttermilk Cake

1 cup bleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt
Optional: finely grated zest of 1 orange or lemon
1 cup farm-fresh raspberries (about 5 ounces)

1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round cake pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper and butter the parchment. Dust the pan with flour and shake out the excess.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Whisk gently to blend.

3. In a large bowl, combine the butter and the 2/3 cup sugar. Beat with an electric mixer on Medium-High speed until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the egg and vanilla until well blended. Beat in the orange zest, if using.

4. With the mixer on Low, add the flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the buttermilk, and beginning and ending with the flour. Mix just until combined.

5. Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan, smoothing the top. Scatter the raspberries over the top and sprinkle with the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar. Bake until the cake is golden and just beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center shows no evidence of uncooked batter, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes; then turn out the cake onto the rack to cool 10 to 15 minutes longer. Peel off and discard the parchment. Invert the cake onto a serving plate so the raspberries are on top. Serve barely warm or at room temperature. Serves 6.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Golden Treasures

May 8, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

April showers have brought far more than spring flowers to the farmers’ market. Strawberries are suddenly everywhere—more plump and tender than ever. Produce aficionados also stand ready for the arrival of early summer crops like tomatoes, zucchini, and stone fruits like nectarines, peaches, plums and pluots. But right now it’s hard to think about anything other than locally-grown apricots and cherries—those perennial favorites with only the briefest of seasons.

Apricots date back at least 4000 years, when they were discovered on the mountain slopes of China. From there, apricots traveled across the Persian Empire to the Mediterranean. Spanish explorers introduced the fruit to California in the 18th century, and apricots became an integral part of the Mission Santa Clara gardens. Recorded history indicates the first major California crop was produced in 1792. By 1920, when fertile farmland was still relatively inexpensive, the California apricot literally flourished in the Santa Clara Valley. However, due to rising property values, housing expansion, and industrial growth following World War II, many California apricot farms abandoned one valley for another—the San Joaquin Valley.

Today the San Joaquin Valley produces 95% of the apricots grown in the United States, and most of these farms are still small, family-owned businesses. The demand is high and the inventory is low, so it pays to shop for fresh apricots sooner rather than later, before the crops are snatched up by commercial canners and other food preservers.
Not only delicious but amazingly versatile in the kitchen, velvety California apricots are one of the healthiest and most beneficial fruits available. They are filled with disease-fighting anti-oxidants and are rich in beta-carotene, Vitamin C, potassium, iron, Vitamin A, copper, and lycopene. They are also high in fiber and low in saturated fat and sodium.

Unlike those anemic, cottony little rocks we see piled high at most supermarkets, tree-ripened apricots are golden-orange in color, aromatic, and honey-sweet. (Due to their fragility and need for special handling, these apricots rarely make it to supermarkets.) On top of that, growing them is a labor of love, as the apricots on each tree ripen randomly, in their own sweet time. This means the same trees must be hand-picked four to five times during the 2-month harvest to ensure that each apricot has reached its potential.

A good apricot is such an ethereal delicacy that eating it out of hand is often the ultimate luxury. But once in a while it’s exciting to celebrate the season by creating a homey dessert for a chilly evening—a private little dessert that doesn’t have to be shared with anyone.

This basic crisp recipe will carry you through the summer months, switching out the apricots as other stone fruits become available. It requires no exotic ingredients, is assembled in minutes, and bakes to perfumed perfection while you’re eating dinner. You can play around with the topping to suit your taste, adding a few chopped walnuts or other aromatic spices, like ground cardamom or freshly-grated nutmeg.

This crisp is comforting and satisfying on its own, but even better when served with a spoonful of cold vanilla-flavored yogurt or a scoop of ice cream.

Easy Apricot Crisp-for-Two

For variation, add a few blueberries or pitted cherries to the apricots.

1/2 pound firm-but-ripe apricots (about 4 large apricots)
4 tablespoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, well-chilled
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons old-fashioned rolled oats (oatmeal)
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Grease two 1-cup ramekins or gratin dishes.

2. Halve and pit the apricots. Working over a bowl, cut the apricot halves into 1/2-inch-thick wedges. Add 1 tablespoon of the brown sugar to the bowl and toss gently to mix. Divide the apricot mixture equally between the ramekins.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the butter and flour. Using a pastry blender or your fingertips, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons brown sugar, the oats, salt, and cinnamon. Scatter all of the mixture evenly over the apricots in each ramekin and bake until the topping is golden brown and the apricots are just tender and bubbly-hot, about 20 minutes.Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

“My parents moved from San Francisco to Mountain View when I was five…Silicon Valley for the most part at that time was still orchards—apricot orchards and prune orchards—and it was really paradise.” –Steve Jobs
Smithsonian interview, April 1995

Another Kind of Sweet Pea

April 2, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

The proliferation of television cooking shows has turned us into a nation of voyeurs. Our insatiable appetite for perfection transports us to the land where pasta is always made from scratch and calories never count. With no more than a click of the remote, we effortlessly transition from an ocean-view kitchen in Malibu to the plains of Oklahoma to a chic locale in the Hamptons. We swoon over impossibly complicated desserts; long for a personal florist to design our garden tablescapes; and cheer for our favorite “chef-testants.” I know this because I’m right there with you. Until real life enters the picture.

April is a good reminder that sometimes the simplest things are the most satisfying. I don’t feel compelled to top my “protein” with a cloud of foam. I don’t need a pantry filled with magic powders or a tank of liquid nitrogen or a sous vide machine or a blast-chiller or an anti-griddle. Everything I need is in my own home kitchen. And the “fanciest” food I need is found at the farmers’ market.

This month, cherry lovers will rejoice at the sight of those chubby little sweeties, and kiwi fanatics can get their fill before that fruit’s season comes to a close. But most importantly, cruciferous and root vegetables are being moved aside to make room for early spring crops like asparagus, artichokes, fava beans, crunchy celery, and peas. Yes, I said peas—with enthusiasm.

Peas are something we tend to take for granted year ‘round, for who among us doesn’t have a bag or two stashed away in the freezer for emergencies? One taste of farm-fresh peas, however, and you’ll understand what a sorry substitute their frozen counterparts really are. Sure, there is a bit of labor involved when you buy peas-in-the pod, but shelling them is a great job for kids, and a not-so-unpleasant task for adults. Just be sure to buy more than you think you’ll need—during the shelling process, raw peas tend to become a popular snack food. (Pea Arithmetic: one pound of English peas-in-the-pod yields 1 cup of shelled peas. Before snacking.)

There are basically two kinds of peas: English peas (aka common garden peas-in-the-pod) that must be shelled to eat the “seeds” inside; and snow peas and sugar snap peas, which have edible pods. Snow peas—a favorite in Chinese cuisine—are flat, while sugar snaps peas are plump. Sugar snap peas also live up to their descriptive name—in a big way!

One of my go-to recipes for sugar snap peas comes from The Food Network—a worthwhile payoff for all those hours spent in front of the television. Ina Garten tells the story that this came about as the result of a fortuitous accident. Her staff had placed an order for snow peas and their produce suppliermistakenly sent sugar snap peas—which at the time were a fairly new on the market. As she was on the phone telling the supplier to pick them up, she tasted one—and the rest is history. She created this salad on the spot, and it sold out within hours. She then called the supplier and ordered 100 pounds for the next day.

The Barefoot Contessa’s salad contains three ingredients, requires absolutely no cooking, and is utterly brilliant in its simplicity. To make it: Leave the sugar snap peas whole, but trim away the leafy end and remove the strings if needed. Toss the uncooked sugar snaps with barely enough Asian-styletoasted sesame oil to coat lightly. (Be miserly here. Don’t think of the oil as “salad dressing.” Add only enough oil to make the peas glisten.) Sprinkle with toasted black or white sesame seeds and serve at cool room temperature. In the words of The Food Goddess herself: How easy is that?

Emboldened with this revelation, I decided to play around with a saladrecipe from the Union Square Café in New York City. Although the restaurant’s version calls for blanching the sugar snap peas, here in California—where locally-grown sugar snaps abound at the farmers’ market—the step is totally unnecessary. So here is another winning recipe to celebrate the flavors of spring. Tune in next month for more perfectly simple ideas.

Sugar Snap Pea Salad with Pancetta

1 pound sugar snap peas, ends trimmed

4 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt or more, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/2 cup California extra virgin olive oil

1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced

3 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves

1/3 cup freshly grated Pecorino-Romano or Parmesan cheese

1. Cut the snap peas into thin strips by slicing them on a sharp diagonal.

2. In a 10-inch skillet, combine the pancetta and 1 tablespoon of water. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates and the pancetta begins to render its fat, 4 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium and cook, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until crisp. Drain on paper towels.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil.

4. Stir in the prepared sugar snaps, pancetta, green onion, mint, and all but 1 tablespoon of the cheese. Taste, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Serves 4 to 6.

Minding Your Peas and Q’s

–Although “string-less” sugar snappeas are increasingly popular, more classic varieties have a tough string running along the length of the pod. If they are not labeled “string-less” at the farmers’ market, just ask the grower. Removing the string is incredibly easy: Just snap off the leaf end and pull down on the string. (This is a mindless chore best done while watching The Food Network.)

–Like corn, the sugars contained within peas convert to starch shortly after harvesting, so it’s best to buy them fresh from the farmers’ market and eat them as soon as possible. Store them in an open plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.

— Regardless of which variety of peas you buy, always inspect the “packaging”: look for plump, glossy green pea pods, crisp and free of blemishes.

–Easy does it! An over-cooked pea is a sorry thing. Strictly speaking, no peas require cooking—though giving common “English” peas and snow peas a quick sauté or blanch in boiling water will intensify their color and mellow their flavor ever so slightly.

The Heart of the Matter

March 1, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

March brings overcast, sometimes drizzly mornings interspersed with sunny afternoons. Bursts of color begin to erupt in our home gardens; and each week some new seasonal delicacy appears at the farmers’ market. Stands brimming with fragrant citrus fruits are now joined by other cool-weather crops like snapping-fresh asparagus spears, sweet multi-color beets, tender salad greens, big bumpy fava beans, mild-mannered leeks, a trilogy of plump peas (English, sugar-snaps, and snow peas), and a scarlet sea of early strawberries. The farmers’ market is also well stocked with crisp green cabbage and numerous potato varieties ideal for St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. Spring flowers abound…ever the perfect antidote to a gloomy day.

Even with all this bounty before us, it would take a very cold-hearted Californian to resist the charms of the season’s first artichokes. Here where they are cheap and plentiful, artichokes have become part of the California lifestyle. I never tire of them—steamed or boiled; braised; marinated; fried; stuffed and baked; or blanched and charred on the grill. Bring it on.

The following recipe is adapted from one that appeared in Sunset magazine a number of years back. This convenient cooking method is a nice switch, and celebrates the artichoke’s origins with aromatic Mediterranean flavors. It’s also a great make-ahead dish, since these artichokes are equally delicious at room temperature.

Prickly Points

–Edible thistles of the sunflower family and native to the Mediterranean, artichokes were brought to California in the 1880’s by Italian immigrants.

–California produces 100% of all commercially grown artichokes in the United States

–Approximately 75% of harvested artichokes are sold fresh; the remaining 25% are
processed as canned hearts and crowns or as frozen, quartered artichokes

–Globe artichokes are cultivated mainly in California’s foggy mid-coastal regions.

–The peak season for artichokes is March through May, with a shorter second season in the fall. Artichokes grown in the fall are usually more cone-shaped than round, and their outer petals have a purplish tinge.

–The first artichokes to appear at the top of the plant are the largest; those picked thereafter are smaller. The “babies” that grow under the plant’s large silvery leaves rarely develop a choke, so they can be cooked and eaten whole or cut into slivers and eaten raw.

–Buy artichokes that feel heavy for their size, with an unopened, compact leaf formation and firm stem with little sign of browning at the end. The leaves should “squeak” when pressed together. (However, note that thornless varieties—without prickly tips—will not pass the squeak test.)

–A slightly bronzed or blistery look on the leaf edges (dubbed “winter’s kiss” by some advertising wizard) is merely an indication of the artichoke’s exposure to frost, and does not affect the artichoke’s quality. (In fact, some growers swear they taste the best.)

–Refrigerate unwashed artichokes in a closed plastic bag for up to 5 days.

–When preparing artichokes, some cooks prefer to wear rubber gloves to protect their hands from the prickly tips.

–To reduce discoloration, as you are working drop each cut artichoke into a large bowl of acidulated cold water (i.e., 3 tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar to 1 quartcool water).

–Don’t discard the artichoke stems! They taste remarkably similar to the prized hearts. When you find an artichoke with a nice fat stem, use a small knife or a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler to remove the tough, fibrous outer layer; then steam or roast it along with the artichokes. (Watch closely, as they cook faster.)

–1 medium artichoke weighs in at a mere 60 calories, with 7 grams of fiber.

Oven-Steamed Artichokes

3 large farm-fresh artichokes, each about 4 inches wide, preferably with thick stems attached

1/4 cup California extra virgin olive oil

6 large garlic cloves, peeled if desired

6 small sprigs of fresh thyme or other favorite herb

6 thin lemon slices, seeds removed

Coarse (kosher) salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Working 1 artichoke at a time, break off and discard the small tough outer leaves. Use a large knife to cut off the tips and stems. With kitchen scissors, snip off the thorny tips from the remaining leaves. Trim the dark base from the stem end and peel the coarse outer fibers from the stem and artichoke bottom. Cut artichokes in half lengthwise and remove and discard the fuzzy choke with a melon baller or small spoon. Drop artichoke halves and stems in a bowl of acidulated water. Repeat with remaining artichokes.

Pour oil into a 13- x 9- x 2-inch baking dish…or any other dish in which the artichokes will fit snugly in a single layer. Roll the peeled stems and artichoke halves in the oil to coat lightly. Arrange artichoke halves cut-side down in the baking dish. Place a garlic clove in the cavity where the choke had been; then slide a sprig of thyme and a lemon slice under each artichoke half. Tuck the stems into spaces between the artichokes. Cover with parchment paper to prevent discoloration; then cover tightly with foil. Bake until the artichoke bottoms are just tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 40 minutes.
Carefully place each artichoke half on a serving platter, cut-side up, leaving the garlic and thyme in place, topped by the steamed lemon slice. Arrange the stems on the platter; drizzle the baking juices over all, and season with salt. Serve warm or at room temperature; as is, or with mayonnaise, aioli, melted butter, and/or fresh lemon wedges on the side. Serves 3 artichoke lovers at dinner, or 6 polite people as part of a buffet.

Fearless Shopping

January 31, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

In an attempt to discourage its customers from falling into a culinary rut, a supermarket in England adopted the slogan, “Try something scary today.” This made me smile, but also got me thinking. It’s really not a bad way to approach shopping at the farmers’ market.

In February, do you automatically load up your market bag with apples and oranges? Perhaps tossing in a bag of lettuce or a head of broccoli every now and then? Ho-hum. It’s time to get out of that rut. Make this the year to explore new horizons and embrace the bounty of California’s top growing regions—all of which are represented at the Danville farmers’ market.

Have you ever tried cardoon? Pummelo? Carambola? How about that wild tangle of Asian greens you’ve walked by a dozen times? We’re talking produce here, folks. How scary could these things possibly be?

One of the many advantages of shopping at a certified farmers’ market is the person doing the selling is the same person doing the growing. So if anyone knows how to tackle a kohlrabi or choose a cherimoya, it’s your friendly local farmer. Here’s the challenge for 2014: when you come across anything unfamiliar at the market, just ask the person who grew it. Like most proud parents, they love to talk about their progeny. And their enthusiasm is often contagious.

This month at the farmers’ market, along with those “scary” items you vow to try, no doubt you’ll also want to pick up something sweet for Valentine’s Day. How about something comfortingly familiar, seemingly extravagant, and vaguely romantic? Nothing but farm-fresh strawberries will do.

After months of hiding underground, strawberries are now appearing at the market. Oh sure, they’ll probably get sweeter and cheaper as the season progresses; but for now, they are a colorful addition to the limited lineup of winter fruits. A hopeful sign that spring is on its way. And unlike the hard-as-rocks strawberries sold in most supermarkets, these little gems are the real deal, i.e., they actually smell and taste like berries. Imagine!

While sorting through a mountain of papers I had saved for one reason or another, I came across this long-forgotten recipe. It’s something that used to be served as a special dessert at the Four Seasons in New York City. I hadn’t made these for years. Maybe even decades. And I have no idea why I stopped. (Might it be because I couldn’t find the recipe?) Anyway, these shiny glazed strawberries are now back in rotation.

If you were once a devotee of candy apples—the carnival specialty consisting of an irresistibly crisp, tart apple encased in a crackly-sweet coating that shattered with each bite—think of these strawberries as their sophisticated cousins. The chic relatives who fly in from Paris for the weekend.

These glossy fruits are a welcome break from the ubiquitous chocolate-covered strawberry, yet every bit as delicious.And even though I may have gone overboard in my explanation of the candying process, it’s really quite simple to do. Just have everything set up before you get started, and it will be done in no time.

Best of all, unlike candy apples, these do not provoke the wrath of the American Dental Association. Since it’s only one teeny bite, your veneers should remain in place.

Candied Strawberries

2 baskets farm-fresh strawberries, stems and green caps left intact

2 cups granulated pure cane sugar

1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar

2/3 cup water

Rinse the strawberries in a large bowl of cold water. Drain well in a colander and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the strawberries on an absorbent towel to air-dry.
Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat; or line with parchment or foil and spray with no-stick cooking spray. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, stir together the sugar and cream of tartar. Stir in the water until evenly moistened. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until bubbles surface around the edges of the pan. Continue cooking, without stirring, watching carefully, until the mixture becomes a clear syrup that reaches the hard-crack stage (300 to 310 degrees F.) on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat.
Working one at a time, dip aberry into the sugar syrup by holding its long stem or by using a bamboo skewer. (Coat only the red part of the berry; not the green cap or stem.) Immediately transfer the berry to the prepared baking sheet to cool. (The syrup will harden as it cools.) Repeat with the remaining strawberries.
Oncecool, these are best served within 2 hours. Do not refrigerate.

Tips for Crackling-Good Success

Long-stemmed strawberries make for an especially showy presentation. Valentine’s Day comes only once a year, so you may as well look like a big spender. If long stems arenot available, stick a bamboo skewer securely into the cap of each strawberry to use as a “handle.”
Use only perfect—and perfectly dry—fruit. Any moisture left on the berries, or any nicks in the flesh that might leak moisture, will throw off the chemistry.
Don’t attempt to make these on a humid or rainy day. The sugar syrup may never harden. (It’s that moisture thing again.)
If you don’t own a candy thermometer, buy one. But if that’s out of the question, here’s the old-school way of checking the temperature: Drop a small spoonful of hot syrup into a bowl of ice water. Remove the resulting candy from the water and try to bend it between your fingers. If the proper hard-crack stage has been reached, the syrup will form brittle threads in the water, and will crack if you try to mold it with your fingers.
You want to work fairly quickly, before the sugar syrup cools down and loses its crackling powers. You can prolong the proper temperature by carefully placing the pot of hot syrup inside a larger pot or bowl filled with a couple of inches of hot (not boiling) water.
This is NOT a project to do with young children. Or clumsy adults. In fact, have a bowl of ice water nearby, just in case any of the sugar syrup splatters; immediately submerge your hand in the ice water.

‘Looking for a few new recipes to liven up your entertaining repertoire? Check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Cooking School at the Blackhawk store on Wednesday, February 26, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

Holiday Detox

January 2, 2014 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

A barely-discernible veil of powdered sugar still lingers on every surface of my kitchen. The wine closet has an alarming number of empty slots. The deli drawer in my refrigerator—once crammed with an enviable assortment of decadent triple-crème cheeses—now houses one teeny chunk of Parmesan.

It’s January. The Season of Excess has officially ended. The past six weeks were filled with good food—and much of it was reasonably healthy. At least, it started out healthy. It’s just all the other stuff I ate along with it that has transported me into The Land of Elastic Waistbands.

Sweet potatoes are a perfect example. From Thanksgiving forward, they played center-stage in many festive meals. And had I the fortitude to scrape away the gooey marshmallow topping, candied nuts, puddles of melted butter, and/or molten brown sugar, I would have been left with something quite nutritious.Maybe I’ll try that next year.

For now, fellow January dieters can rejoice that sweet potatoes are one of the few starchy vegetables that ranks low on the glycemic index. They are also high in vitamins and A, B6, C and D; and a good source of potassium, calcium, folate, magnesium, iron, and beta-carotene.

Sweet potatoes are born with paper-thin skin and a high ratio of starch to sugar. (They’re not terribly desirable at this stage.) Only after a designated period of climate-controlled storage does the skin thicken into a protective barrier, and the starch contained within convert to sugar—resulting in the sort of sweet potato we know and love.

Shopping at the farmers’ market ensures you are purchasing the best possible product at its peak of perfection. There you’ll find a wide assortment of sweet potato varieties, grown both organically and conventionally. Whichever you choose, they’re ready to bring home and steam, bake, boil, sauté, or microwave into maximum deliciousness. These farmers’ market sweeties have also been handled far less than their supermarket siblings, reducing the likeliness of bruising, soft spots, and subsequent rot.

Growers divide sweet potatoes into two basic categories: moist and dry. The moist ones—commonly called yams—have reddish skin and bright orange flesh that’s sweet and moist. They also have colorful names like Garnet and Jewel and Beauregard. This variety is now officially recognized as one of America’s top-ten “super-foods.” Which means: They rock.

The dry ones—often labeled generically as “sweet potatoes”—have golden skin and pale yellow flesh that isdrier and more bland than sweet, with a floury texture reminiscent of a baking potato.

For the best results, select small-to-medium sweet potatoes that feel heavy for their size. Farm-fresh sweet potatoes remain fresh for at least seven days when stored in a cool, dry cupboard. Do not store them in the refrigerator.

An unadorned sweet potato baked in its skin is a healthy, flavorful alternative to traditional white potatoes. On these cold days, however, nothing beats the comfort ofwarm soup—especially when it looks appetizing; delivers an unexpected kick; tastes rich and creamy, and yet contains only a smattering of fat. The following recipe provides all that in less than one hour, from start to finish.

I happen to enjoy the velvety texture of pureed soup, but feel free to skip that step if you consider it too fussy. Or if you want to get truly fancy, top each serving with a drizzle of sour cream and/or some chopped fresh cilantro. This soup freezes perfectly, so there’s no reason not to double the recipe.

Smoky Sweet Potato Soup

1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 pound red-skinned sweet potatoes (about 2 medium or 3 small), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 garlic clove, chopped

Fine sea salt

3 cups (24 ounces) chicken stock or low-salt chicken or vegetable broth

1 teaspoon finely chopped canned chipotle chile peppers in adobo sauce*(use only 1/2 teaspoon if you don’t care for spicy food)

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

Juice of 1 lime, plus 1 more lime cut into wedges for serving

In a soup pot or large saucepan, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
Stir in the sweet potatoes, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook about 2 minutes longer. Pour in the stock,and stir in the chipotle, cumin, and paprika. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat to low and cook, partially covered, until the sweet potatoes are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. (Alternatively, let the soup cool to room temperature. Working in batches, puree in a blender until smooth; then return to the pot to re-heat.) Stir in the lime juice. Taste, adding more salt if needed. Serve hot, and pass the lime wedges at the table. Makes 4 cups.

*Chipotles are smoked jalapeño chiles. Small cans of chipotle peppers in spicy adobo sauce are available in Latin markets, or in the Mexican foods section of most supermarkets.Remove as many chiles as you need from the open can, and transfer the remaining chipotles and adobo sauce to a small jar with a tight-fitting lid. It will keep in the refrigerator indefinitely, so you’ll always have chipotles on hand to perk up your cooking.

It’s a Date!

December 5, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

The weather is downright chilly (at least, by California standards) and the traffic is outrageous. A quick review of the week’s social obligations provokes an anxiety attack. And with each passing day my holiday gift list seems to grow rather than shrink. Welcome to December.

It’s not all gloom, however. No matter how difficult the logistics might be, gathering with friends always soothes my soul. And there is never a shortage of good food to lift my spirits. Or good spirits to lift my food.

This month more than ever, shopping at the farmers’ market is a win-win situation: I not only avoid the craziness of a mall, I feel good knowing that whatever money I spend goes directly to the people who grow the food we eat throughout the year. While I purchase all the produce and other specialty food items needed for the coming week, I inevitably find a few “tasteful” gifts to cross off my list. Along with the rainbow of bargain-priced fresh flowers and plants to brighten both my home and those of my hosts, there’s a wide variety of artisan jams and jellies; local honey; California extra virgin olive oil; and plenty of top-quality dried fruits and nuts just ripe for giving. Baskets filled with plump raisins, apricots, walnuts, and almonds are perfect for any foodie, but a big bag of California dates will place your gift over-the-top.

Most supermarkets sell small boxes of pitted diced dates that taste as though they were chopped in 1978. The perceived“convenience” of this product is far outweighed by the fact they are little more than dry nuggets of sweetness. Whole dates, purchased pit-in to ensure freshness, are a different matter altogether.Especially this month, when the newest crop is available at the farmers’ market. One taste, and you’ll eschew the box forever.

Date palms have thrived in the southern California desert for over a century. The most common varieties of dates you’ll find at the farmers’ market are the papery-skinned Deglet Noor, and the fat, meaty Medjool—often considered the Rolls Royce of dates.Check with your grower for information on round dates, and other less-popular but equally tasty varieties.

The best dates are inherently sticky, but that is not a problem. Simply spray the blades of kitchen shears (or a sharp knife) with no-stick cooking spray, and you’re ready to get the job with the least amount of residual goo.

Eating a few nutrient-rich dates out of hand is sure to cure any sweet-cravings…and has the added value of being a genuine super-food. I also like to serve them as appetizer—perhaps stuffed with California goat cheese and a toasted almond. After dinner, dates can be a satisfying accompaniment to walnut halves and chunks of good Parmesan cheese drizzled with honey. For a heart-healthy blast of natural sugar, try adding a few bite-size pieces of pitted dates to your morning oatmeal or other cereal; salads; smoothies and shakes; stuffings; stews; or rice pilaf.

There are plenty of great recipes out therefor date breads and cookies and bars, but Sticky Toffee Pudding remains in a class by itself. If you haven’t tried it, December is a good time to go for broke–when “diet” is a 4-letter word. This is the sort of dessert I enjoy only once or twice per year, so I can ignore its caloric shortcomings without guilt.

Lest you be confused by the name of the recipe, please know that in British food-speak the word pudding is simply code for “dessert.” In this case, it’s a moist date cake topped with a wicked-good toffee sauce. This is uber-rich, so serve small portions. But be prepared for guests to ask for second helpings. How sweet it is!

Sticky Toffee Pudding

8 ounces dates, pitted and chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 1/4 cups water

1 teaspoon baking soda

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 cup (packed) dark brown sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Toffee Sauce (recipe follows)

Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, for serving

In a medium saucepan, combine the dates and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the baking soda. Let stand for about 30 minutes, so the dates break down and soften completely. (Don’t worry if the mixture discolors from the acid in the baking soda—this is normal.)
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch square baking pan and line the bottom with parchment paper, and grease the parchment.
In a large bowl, beat the butter and brown sugar with an electric mixer for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and very fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla. With a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, mix in the flour and baking powder. Add the date mixture and mix just until well blended. Scrape the batter into the prepared baking pan.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the cake is just beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with no more than a moist crumb. Remove the pan from the oven. Using a toothpick, poke holes all over the top of the cake and drizzle with about 3/4 cup of the warm Toffee Sauce. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before cutting into squares or rectangles. Serve the “pudding” warm or at room temperature. Top each serving with a scoop of ice cream and drizzle the remainingwarm Toffee Sauce over all. Serves 6 to 8.

Toffee Sauce

1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 1/2 cups (packed) dark brown sugar

3/4cup heavy (whipping) cream

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract or 2 tablespoons brandy

In a heavy medium saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar, cream, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and let cool for 10 minutes.

Stir the vanilla into the warm toffee sauce. Serve at once, or refrigerate, covered, for up to 1 week. Reheat gently before serving.Makes about 2 cups.

Getting Squashed

November 3, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Due to a couple of scheduling conflicts, Thanksgiving is coming to my house a week early. The date really doesn’t matter to me; the important thing is that our family is together.

I’m honestly looking forward to this year’s celebration more than usual, for all my planning and shopping and cooking will be but a distant memory when the actual holiday finally rolls around on November 28. By then, while others frantically circle crowded supermarket lots in search of an empty parking space, I’ll be stowing away the last of the platters.

Even though the grocery stores won’t be so crowded when I shop, I still plan to keep those purchases to a minimum. The unquestionable showstoppers of the meal will come from the farmers’ market—as will my centerpiece and floral arrangements.

Over time, my family tree has become a little top-heavy with vegetarians; but I’ve always considered that more of a challenge than a stumbling block. It’s actually quite easy to accommodate their preference by serving plenty of interesting veggie-centric salads and side dishes. If recent history is any indication, the few remaining carnivores will politely nibble on turkey, but mostly load our plates with November’s farm-fresh bounty. And then, of course, dessert will be a free-for-all.

For a fleeting moment I considered eliminating turkey from the menu altogether, but decided that might be a little too radical an idea. If for no other reason, I’ll roast a turkey just to get the requisite aroma wafting through the house. Even the vegetarians find that nostalgic smell irresistibly comforting.

One of the special dishes I plan to make is butternut squash lasagna. If you haven’t dabbled in less-than-classic lasagna before, I urge you to give it a try. A couple of winters ago I made a very similar recipe that appeared in Fine Cooking magazine. After minimal tweaking, this is my adaptation, and the one I will be serving to my family this year. It is also a great company dish to carry through winter.

This is not one of those heavy pasta dishes that lands in your stomach with a thud. It’s substantial enough to be a main course for vegetarians, yet so delicate and ethereal it can stand in as a side for others. The secret is to use fresh rather than dried pasta. No option there.

And please don’t be put off by the length of the recipe. As you read through you’ll see that most of the components can be prepared separately at your leisure, and the entire casserole can be assembled a day or two in advance. (Just cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and return it to room temperature before baking.)

I’m pretty sure this is going to be the start of a new Thanksgiving tradition. I just hope somebody eats that darn turkey.

Butternut Squash Lasagna with California Goat Cheese

1 large butternut squash (about 3 pounds), halved lengthwise and seeded

2 large cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 bunch fresh thyme

2 teaspoons California extra virgin olive oil

Coarse (kosher) salt

Freshly ground black pepper

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 bunch fresh sage

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3 cups whole milk

1 1/4 cups (about 4 ounces) crumbled fresh California goat cheese

1 cup (about 2 ounces) finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg

1/4 cup coarse dry breadcrumbs, such as panko

1 pound fresh pasta sheets (homemade or store-bought), cooked 30 seconds to 1 minute until barely tender, then rinsed with cold water and drained well

Optional: about 1/3 cup Fried Sage Leaves for garnish (instructions follow)

To roast the squash and garlic: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Arrange the squash cut-side up on a large, heavy, rimmed baking sheet. Put 1 garlic clove and 1 sprig of thyme in each cavity. Drizzle each half with 1 teaspoon of the oil, then season each with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grindings of pepper. Roast until the squash is browned in spots and very tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. (This can all be done a day in advance, if you like.)
Discard the thyme sprigs. Peel the garlic and put it in a large bowl. Scoop the squash flesh from the skins and add it to the garlic. Mash with a fork until the mixture is well blended but still maintains a bit of texture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.
To make the goat cheese and sage sauce: In a 2-quart saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add a couple of large sage sprigs and cook 2 to 3 minutes to flavor the butter. Discard the sage. Add the flour and whisk over medium heat until smooth and golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook, whisking occasionally, until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Stir in the goat cheese, 1/2 cup of the Pecorino, the nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, and a few grinding of pepper. Taste, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Set aside 1 1/2 cups of the sauce, and mix the rest into the mashed squash.
To make seasoned breadcrumbs: Finely chop about 2 teaspoons of thyme and 1 teaspoon of sage leaves. In a small skillet, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Stir in the breadcrumbs, chopped sage, chopped thyme, a pinch of salt, and few grindings of pepper. Remove from heat and mix well to coat the crumbs.
To assemble and bake the lasagna: Spread 1/2 cup of the reserved cheese sauce over the bottom of a large gratin or other 3-quart baking dish. Cover the sauce with a slightly overlapping layer of cooked noodles, cutting them as needed to fill any gaps. Spread 1 cup of the squash mixture evenly over the noodles. Add another layer of noodles and repeat the layers as instructed above, to make a total of 4 squash layers and 5 pasta layers. Spread the remaining 1 cup cheese sauce evenly over the top. Sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture and the remaining 1/2 cup pecorino. Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. If desired, scatter fried sage leaves over the top before cutting into squares to serve. Serves 6 to 8.

To make fried sage leaves: Heat about 1-inch of oil in a pot until it reaches 365 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in batches, fry whole sage leaves, turning once, for 3 to 5 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels; season with salt. (These can be made up to 2 days in advance. Store at room temperature in an airtight container lined with a paper towel.)

Good Apples

October 4, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

“In Hollywood, the women are all peaches. It makes one long for an apple occasionally.” William Somerset Maugham

When days are short and you suddenly recognize that unmistakable chill in the air, it’s too late to mourn the passing of summer. Instead, appreciate the moment. Embrace autumn with a rustic apple crisp. (Food can solve all kinds of problems. Trust me.)

This fruit-laden concoction is favored by both rookies and experienced bakers, as it provides all the comfort and goodness of homemade apple pie with none of the accompanying angst. Sweet, heady aromas wafting through the house will make you forget those days at the beach. Consider it a cheap form of aromatherapy.

In other parts of the country my choice of apple might be limited to the ubiquitous Granny Smith; and there would be nothing wrong with that. When grown and stored properly, these apples are pleasantly tart and hold their shape during baking. But since we live in the heart of several renowned apple-growing regions, it’s easy to add complexity of flavor and texture to the filling by mixing things up a bit. Along with that old reliable Granny, I might add a jumble of other varieties lurking in my refrigerator: Golden Delicious, Gala, McIntosh, Jonathan, and Pink Lady are all proven winners. I’ve found that a crisp can be a very noble ending for any aging apples losing their “snap,” and therefore less appealing to eat out of hand.

There’s a good reason this is a seasonal dessert. Have you ever bought a supermarket apple in the summer? A mealy, flavorless specimen that was waxed to a high shine, trucked in from another state (or hemisphere), and then held for months in cold storage? It takes only one lackluster bite to realize you’ve made a big mistake. One must wait for autumn to buy apples at their sweet, crisp, tree-ripened best. Just follow your nose at the farmers’ market to revel in this fruit’s perfection. And you’ll understand why poor Adam didn’t have a chance.

Apple crisp is designed to charm the palates of all ages and–although you may not want to advertise this fact to certain people–actually boasts some nutritional value. So think outside the box–there is no reason to limit crisp consumption to dessert-time. Crisps are the perfect little something to enjoy alongside a steaming hot cup of coffee or tea, or an ice-cold glass of milk. Since crisps are so easy to serve, they’re always a good idea for potlucks and buffets.(If you want to get fancy for company, divide the mixture among ramekins and bake individual portions.) And on the off-chance there is any around the next day, leftover crisp makes a darn fine breakfast…straight out of the refrigerator!

Homey creations like this have very few rules; so as long as you use good, flavorful apples, you’re home free. In a hurry? You can even forgo peeling them. And if the spirit moves you, toss a handful of raisins, dried cherries, chopped dates or dried apple slices into the filling prior to baking.A sprinkling of finely grated fresh ginger or citrus zest is also good. I generally use only a whisper of cinnamon, but feel free to amp up the spiciness to your standards byusing a bit more, with or without a little added ground ginger, cardamom, cloves, or grated fresh nutmeg.

This ispretty much perfect as is, but you can certainly add your own special flourish with a dusting of powdered sugar over each serving. For guaranteed oohs and aahs, serve with a big spoonful of Greek yogurt, crème fraîche, whipped cream, or ice cream. There’s no reason kids should get all the treats on Halloween.

Apple Crisp with Toasted Walnuts

For the crisp topping:

1 cup California walnut halves and pieces

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup rolled oats (regular or quick-cooking oatmeal)

1/2 cup (packed) light or dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and chilled

For the filling:

6 medium-to-large apples(2 1/2 to 3 pounds), preferably assorted varieties

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 to 4 tablespoons granulated sugar (depending on the sweetness of the apples)

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate or other 2-quart baking dish with no-stick cooking spray.
Spread the walnuts in a pan and bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool; then chop finely.
To make the topping: In a medium bowl, combine the walnuts, flour, oats, brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Stir to blend. Add the butter. Using your fingertips or a large fork, work in the butter, tossing and mixing,until it forms small, irregular pieces. Refrigerate while you make the filling.
To make the filling: Place the lemon juice in a large bowl. Peel, core, and slice the apples about 1/4-inch thick, tossing the slices in the lemon juice as they are cut.
Sprinkle the sugar, flour, and cinnamon over the top of the apples; then toss gently to mix. Scrape the apple mixture (and any accumulated juices) into the prepared baking dish. Crumble the cold topping mixture evenly over the apples. (Do not pat it down or press it into the apple mixture. You don’t want this to end up being a dense, compact topping.) Bake until the topping is golden brown, the filling is bubbly-hot, and the apples are just tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cool slightly before serving warm or at room temperature.

Savoring September

September 1, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

September is one of my favorite transitional months at the farmers’ market, when there is plenty to stir the senses. The rainbow of colorful produce; the bustle of busy shoppers; and the clean, fresh aromas wafting through the cool morning air all contribute a bit of excitement to a weekly ritual. There are also noteworthy deals on end-of-season fruits and vegetables, piled high alongside new fall crops like plump figs and grapes. (When the pears, persimmons, and pomegranates show up, we’ll know that autumn is officially here.)

But while the season for “real” tomatoes is waning and bargain-prices abound for overripe tomatoes at the market, smart cooks rush to capture a taste of summer that can be enjoyed for the rest of the year. When time permits, I go through the traditional canning routine: blanching tomatoes before peeling them; hours of bubbling sauce on the stove top; sterilizing jars and minding pH levels to ensure safety; wiping the jars clean and securing the lids; processing the hot-packed jars in a water bath to seal; yaddayaddayadda.

Other times–like this year–when I want a quick fix, I let my oven do most of the work. Although roasted tomato sauce requires significant cooking time, the actual hands-on activity in the kitchen is minimal and the relatively small yield makes preserving less of a chore—and something I won’t mind repeating several times over the next few weeks. As if that were not enough, there are even more benefits: locally-grown, vine-ripened tomatoes provide the kind of flavor you’ll never find in a can or jar; the sugars in the vegetables caramelize during cooking, providing added depth; and a healthy dose of California olive oil adds incomparable richness. I don’t even bother peeling the tomatoes. Instead, I puree the skins along with the other vegetables, adding a bit more fiber to the finished sauce.

Meaty plum or Roma tomatoes generally make the thickest sauce, but any flavorful tomato will do. Use whichever varieties are cheap and plentiful, and feel free to mix the “odds and ends” from any tomatoes you may have on hand. Last year I made a yummy oven-roasted yellow tomato sauce that always drew raves, substituting yellow bell peppers for the red or green. Yellow tomato sauce is unique in itself—but even more so when served in December.

Most of us automatically think” pasta” when we think of homemade tomato sauce, but there are zillions of ways to use it. Just add meatballs and a crusty roll for a first-class sandwich for football fans; make it the crowning glory for homemade eggplant Parmigiano or stuffed bell peppers; or ladle it over warm polenta, with or without a side of grilled Italian sausage. With only a little effort your freezer can hold the key ingredient for stellar soups and stews, as well as Chicken Scaloppine, Shrimp Creole, Steak Pizzaiola, or Osso Buco.

For a quick appetizer, place about 1 cup of Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce in a small gratin or other baking dish. Slice 1/2-inch thick rounds from a log of fresh goat cheese and arrange them in a single layer over the sauce. Bake in a preheated 400 degree oven until the sauce is bubbly-hot and the cheese is heated through but still holds its shape, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, heat in a microwave.) Sprinkle with chopped fresh basil or parsley, and serve warm as a spread for baguette slices or crostini.

You’ll be glad you’re seeing red. (Or yellow.)

Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce

5 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, preferably plum tomatoes or Roma tomatoes

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

2 bell peppers (red and/or green), seeded and coarsely chopped

4 to 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 cup California olive oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano leaves, or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Core the tomatoes and chop into 1-inch chunks, reserving the juices.
In a heavy 5-quart roasting pan, combine the tomatoes and their juices, the onions, bell peppers, garlic, vinegar, oil, salt, and crushed red pepper. Toss gently to mix. Place in the oven and cook, uncovered, stirring once or twice, for 1 hour.
Stir in the basil and marjoram and cook until the tomatoes have broken down into a sauce and the mixture has thickened slightly, about 30 minutes longer. Taste, adding more salt if needed.
Use an immersion blender to puree the sauce to desired thickness—chunky or smooth, your choice. (Alternatively, let cool for 15 minutes. Then, working in small batches, puree sauce in a food processor or blender.)Use at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. Freeze for longer storage. Makes 7 to 8 cups.