Peggy Fallon

Salad Days

August 1, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

On a warm Saturday morning, I always try to make the farmers’ market my first stop. It seems to set a positive vibe for the entire day—bright colors; clean, fresh aromas; happy people and—with a little luck—some good music.

Summer is in full-swing at the market now, with truckloads of just-picked corn, vine-ripened tomatoes, juicy-sweet stone fruits, fat little berries galore, and a rainbow of perfectly ripe melons—including the lamentably short-seasoned watermelon. We’re also seeing the first harvest of apples and grapes for the coming months. With all this to choose from, it’s easy to fill the refrigerator for a week of healthy meals and snacks—so be sure to pack a cooler in the trunk of your car.

When it’s hot outside and firing up the oven is the last thing on my mind, I turn to the cuisines of warm-weather countries for inspiration. Salad-meals are the obvious choice, but sometimes I’m looking for something with a little more substance. That’s when tabbouleh comes to mind.

Tabbouleh (pronounced tuh-BOO-luh), a favorite in the Middle East, is essentially a salad of fresh parsley dotted with chunks of ripe tomatoes and cucumber, all bound together with a bit of cracked wheat and a lemony vinaigrette. Diners spoon the salad onto a lettuce leaf to eat out of hand like a low-cal “wrap,” making this equally at-home as an appetizer, side-dish, or light entree. Plus, the flavors actually improve when it is made in advance. A taste of summer bliss.

Farmers’ Market Tabbouleh

1 cup medium-grind bulgur (cracked wheat)*

2 cups boiling water

Fine sea salt

2 cups vine-ripened cherry tomatoes, preferably a mixture of red and yellow, halved (or 3 large tomatoes, seeded and diced)

1 or 2 cucumbers, seeded and diced

4 to 6 green onions (scallions), chopped

1 1/2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (from 1 large or 2 smaller bunches)

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 large lemons)

1/4 cup California olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Hearts of romaine lettuce leaves for serving

In a heatproof medium bowl, combine the bulgur with 2 cups of boiling water and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and let stand until the bulgur is tender but still slightly chewy, about 30 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve, pressing down firmly with a rubber spatula to remove any liquid; then return the bulgur to the bowl.
Add the tomatoes, cucumber, green onions, parsley, mint, lemon juice, and olive oil. Toss gently to mix thoroughly. Season well with salt and pepper to taste, and toss again. Serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Return to cool room temperature and toss again before serving. To serve, mound the tabbouleh on a large platter and surround with lettuce leaves. Have each guest spoon some of the filling onto a lettuce leaf to eat out of hand. Serves 6.

*Bulgur is available in most well-stocked supermarkets, health food stores, and Middle Eastern markets.

A few final thoughts on tabbouleh….

Since tabbouleh contains such a large amount of parsley, I usually chop it in the food processor. The only down-side is that chopping mechanically draws out a lot of excess liquid from the parsley. So when I remove it from the food processor, I scrape the parsley onto a double-thickness of paper towels, gather up the corners, and squeeze the mass of parsley until it is dry.
Fresh mint has a tendency to discolor quickly after it is chopped, so you may want to wait and add it shortly before serving.
Variations: A handful of crumbled feta cheese can add both flavor and texture to this salad. Ditto for a few sliced radishes. And sometimes I like to pump up the Middle Eastern profile by adding a couple of cloves of minced garlic and/or a half-teaspoon or so of ground cumin.
If you prefer, substitute butter lettuce leaves for romaine. Their cup-like shape makes them easier to wrap around the filling, though they won’t be as crisp and crunchy as romaine. Either way, buy twice as much lettuce as you think you’ll need—once guests get into the rhythm of eating tabbouleh, the supply dwindles quickly!
Instead of wrapping tabbouleh in lettuce leaves, serve it as part of a meze platter—with hummus; assorted olives;roasted almonds or pistachios; quartered hard-boiled eggs; feta or string cheese; a marinated carrot or lentil salad; Greek-style plain yogurt; and a pile of warm pita bread triangles for scooping. Serve meze as a tiny feast on its own, or alongside grilled lamb kebabs.
If gluten is an issue in your life, substitute quinoa for the bulgur.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Looking to expand your entertaining repertoire? Check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Cooking Schoolat Blackhawk on Wednesday, August 21, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

Street Smart

July 3, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Summer is official now…and even those of us who love to cook welcome an occasional break from working in a warm kitchen. But this doesn’t mean you’ll see me in a drive-thru line. So much of July’s bounty requires little or no cooking, the farmers’ market is my fast-food vendor of choice.Without so much as breaking a sweat, I can easily think of dozens of ways to feast on heirloom tomatoes, figs, watermelon, peaches, nectarines, plums, and yet another crop of glorious strawberries.

And then there’s the corn—now at its peak of perfection. Technically corn doesn’t really require cooking, but it’s difficult to resist the thought of melting butter running down your arm. (sigh) But when the occasional change of pace is in order, take it outside.

Travelers to Mexico are often seduced by some of the world’s best fast food prepared right on the streets: ears of corn grilled over an open fire; then slathered with a spicy dressing and rolled in crumbled sharp cheese. Eaten right off the cob, each messy bite is the perfect balance of sweet, salty, spicy, and smoky—all accentuated with a bracing splash of acidity from fresh lime.

Does this sound like gilding the lily? You bet it is. But there’s a reason this flavor combo remains popular with people of all sorts of dietary persuasions: It simply tastes great.I’ll be the first to admit this may not be the most prudent way to meet your recommended daily quota of veggies, but since fresh corn is available for only a few months each year I consider this recipe a justifiable indulgence.

Mexican Street Corn is traditionally cooked outdoors, but an indoor grill—or even the oven broiler, in a pinch—will still render a delicious result. Some may insist upon taking a shortcut and quickly cook husked ears of corn directly on the grill; but taking the time to first soak the ears in water and then grill them in their husks ensures the kernels remain plump and moist, rather than becoming dry and chewy.

Even with “peasant” recipes such as this, it’s important that each ingredient be of the highest quality, and treated with the utmost respect. That means freshly-picked corn, bursting with natural sugars. And unless you’re growing corn in your backyard, there’s only one place to find it.

Just so the finished dish receives the attention it deserves, I prefer to serve this either alone as a first course or as a Meatless Monday entrée, alongside a big green salad, a platter of sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, and a loaf of crusty artisan bread—all purchased at the farmers’ market. Colorful, easy, and utterly delish!

Mexican Street Corn

4 ears farm-fresh corn on the cob, husks on

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder

1 cup finely grated Cotija* or Parmesan cheese

Coarse (kosher) salt

2 limes, cut into wedges for serving

Carefully peel back the corn husks, leaving them attached at the base of the cob. Pull off and discard as much of the corn silk as possible (the rest will come off easily after it’s grilled.) Fold the husks back over the kernels.

Soak the ears in a large bowl of cold water for about 30 minutes. (If needed, place a plate on top of the corn to ensure it is completely submerged.) This step will keep the kernels moist by creating steam, and prevents the husks from burning on the grill.
Preheat a grill to medium-hot. In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise and chili powder.(Feel free to play with the basic mixture to suit your personal taste—e.g., consider adding minced garlic; chopped fresh cilantro; a squeeze of fresh lime juice; a bit of ground cumin, or a dash of cayenne for added zip.)Cover and refrigerate. Place the cheese on a large plate or in a gratin or other oblong dish.
Remove the corn from the water, drain, and squeeze out any excess water.
Place the damp corn on an oiled grill and cook, turning often, until the husks are lightly charred all over, about 30 minutes. When cool enough to touch, peel back the husks completely, keeping them attached to form a “handle.” Brush away any remaining corn silk.
Holding the husk/handle, have each guest brush the mayonnaise mixture evenly over the warm corn kernels, then roll in the cheese and season lightly with salt if desired. Pass lime wedges at the table for squeezing over the corn.Serves 2 as an entrée, or 4 as a first course.

*look for this Mexican cheese in Latin markets and many well-stocked grocery stores

Cool as a Cucumber

May 31, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

I spent the first one-third of my life taking cucumbers for granted. Whenever I came face-to-face with one, at best, I hoped it would be; A) not bitter, and, B) crunchy. Expectations for flavor were nonexistent. Cucumbers were something that showed up in restaurant salads, and I dutifully ate them without thought.They were neither good nor bad, just…there.

For years I half-heartedly purchased cucumbers to “dress up” green salads at home, or to add yet another element to a crudité basket. Then my friend, Ernie, invited me to dinner at her family’s ranch in Glen Ellen.

Mrs. Raffo, her mom, was a warm and generous hostess whose Sunday suppers rivaled any restaurant in town. The make-shift dining table often extended well into the next room, just to accommodate all the family, friends, and neighbors who routinely dropped in. (And this wasn’t exactly a convenient location for a drive-by. Perched high above the Valley of the Moon, to reach the house required arocky ride up miles of winding dirt road. Believe me, anyone who pretended to “drop in” for a Sunday afternoon visithad an ulterior motive.) While captivating aromas wafted from the kitchen, Ernie’s dad made sure everyone’s glass was filled with local red wine. This Irish girl from the suburbs suddenly longed to be Italian.

I can’t remember the entrée fromthat warm summer evening, but I do remember the huge platter of sliced home-grown cucumbers—both green and yellow (who even knew there was such a thing?)—layered with garden-fresh tomatoes and slivers of sweet, red onion. Was there a drizzle of fruity olive oil on top? Salt and pepper? Who knows? Who cares? It was love at first bite. The combination was heavenly; and these cucumbers actually tasted good. Where had they been all my life? Evidently not in a supermarket’s cold-storage unit.

In those days (when dinosaurs roamed the earth), if you didn’t have a backyard garden, your only chance for truly fresh produce was a country farm stand. But now that California is blessed with a proliferation of farmers’ markets — with a stellar one right here in downtown Danville—procuring a genuine taste of summer couldn’t be easier.

In addition to real cucumbers, this month’s farmers’ market is brimming with vine-ripened tomatoes; sweet corn; summer squash; tender little apricots; juicy berries of all persuasions; aromatic melons; early nectarines, peaches, and plums; and the last of the cherries. And you’d better stock up, in case someone drops in for supper on Sunday.

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The 411 on Cukes

–Varieties found at the farmers’ market include the long, slender Japanese cucumber; round, yellow “lemon” cucumbers (named for their appearance rather than their flavor); the long, ridged Armenian variety; and of course the “slicing” or “common” cucumber most frequently used in salads. Short, bumpy Kirby cucumbers are perfect for pickling, though equally good eaten raw.

–Long, thin English (hothouse) cucumbers have fewer seeds and very thin skin—which is why they are encased in plastic.

–As a general rule, the smaller the cucumber, the smaller the seeds.

–Most large-scale commercial growers favor tough-skinned cucumber varieties that withstand days of abuse during the long ride to supermarket distribution centers. These cucumbers are pumped with water to make them grow faster (and weigh more), and then waxed to hold in the moisture….in case you’re wondering why they are usually such sorry specimens.

–Common cucumbers from the farmers’ market are not waxed, so the skin is perfectly edible. Lemon cucumbers with a rough exterior are the only ones that benefit from peeling.

–Check the ends of a cucumber for any sign of deterioration; then make sure the entire cucumber is firm. If there are any soft spots or it is limp or shriveled, it has lost moisture and is not fresh.(Fresh cucumbers are approximately 96 per cent water.)

–Cucumbers are best eaten within 3 or 4 days. Refrigerate whole, unwashed cucumbers between paper towels in a loose plastic bag. Slice them just before serving.

–Don’t limit cucumbers to salads—they add delicious crunch to sandwiches, too.

–Farm-fresh cucumbers are so tangy-sweet, you’ll want to eat them cold as a snack. A noisy cucumber is a good one!

–Cucumbers can also be sautéed in olive oil or butter with a little garlic or fresh herb, and served warm as an intriguing side dish.

–Give yourself the spa treatment: Add several slices of cucumber to a pitcher of cold water and refrigerate for several hours to blend flavors.Bliss.

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Greek Cucumber-Yogurt Dip

Don’t confuse this with those watery dips that often pass for tzatziki. Thick, good-quality yogurt and farm-fresh cucumber make all the difference.You could take a shortcut—and omit Step 1—by using Greek-style yogurt, but draining plain yogurt overnight ensures proper texture, so be sure to plan ahead. Serve with fresh vegetables for dipping, or wedges of fresh pita bread or pita chips. I also often serve a generous spoonful alongside grilled chicken or fish fillets. It’s cool and creamy and refreshing — the perfect antidote to a warm summer day.

2 cups plain yogurt
1 large cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded, and coarsely grated
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint
1 garlic clove, crushed through a press
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
Freshly ground pepper or cayenne

Line a sieve with cheesecloth, an unbleached coffee filter, or a double layer of white paper towels and place over a medium bowl. Spoon the yogurt into the lined sieve, cover with plastic wrap, and let drain in the refrigerator overnight.

In another bowl, toss the cucumber with the salt. Cover and refrigerate for about 3 hours to draw out the liquid.
Transfer the drained yogurt to a clean bowl. (Discard the liquid, or whey, or save for soup stock or another use.) Stir in the sour cream, lemon juice, dill, mint, garlic, and cumin.
Using your hands, squeeze out as much liquid as possible from the cucumber. Add the cucumber to the herbed yogurt mixture and stir to mix. Season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours (or up to 8 hours) to allow the flavors to develop. Makes about 3 cups.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

A Blast From the Past

May 4, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

When ALIVE’s Editor posed the question, “Where were you in ’62?” I knew the answer immediately. I was a freshman at Mercy High School in Burlingame, CA.

The Space Needle—an innovative edifice topped by a revolving full-scale restaurant that seated 250—had recently been constructed for the World’s Fair in Seattle. (In 1962, it was the tallest structure west of the Mississippi.) John Glenn had become the first American to orbit the earth, so “space-age” became the catch-word to hype just about anything, including the food we ate. We wanted it modern, and we wanted it fast. If a mere powder packaged in a hermetically-sealed envelope required only tap water to become a beverage, soup, or whipped topping—all the better. This made us feel we were riding the crest of progress; and, somehow, we were one with the astronauts.

There was a young family in the White House, and their parties were legendary. Official guests no longer endured dubious dinners prepared by U.S. Navy stewards. Now René Verdon, a French-born American chef, ran the White House kitchen in style. He soon became a celebrity in his own right, sharing his recipes in dozens of magazines and eventually writing his own cookbooks.

Washington’s constant stream of notable guests, ranging from diplomats and heads of state to the nation’s finest intellects and artists, now dined on luxurious items like vichyssoise, spring lamb, Beef Wellington, and fresh strawberries. Fine wines were showcased in the State Dining Room, and the world took notice. Lest we feel excluded, the First Lady led us on a private tour of the newly restored White House during an unprecedented television broadcast. This was our House, and we were proud.

As Francophile-fever ran rampant in the U.S., flights to Europe became more frequent and increasingly affordable. Well-traveled Americans (as well as those who only dreamed of a European vacation) set out to recreate the “exotic” foods enjoyed in other countries. Air travel to Hawaii also increased dramatically in 1962, lending tropical flair to our home cooking. At most grocery stores, though, the lettuce was still iceberg and green vegetables were frozen and mushrooms came from a can. So a whole breed of best-forgotten mongrel recipes was born—vile creations like lasagna made with American cheese, and chicken baked with bottled salad dressing and canned pineapple. All washed down with a miraculous new product called Diet-Rite cola.

Beyond the scarcity of quality ingredients, however, most home cooks—aficionados of ’50’s convenience-foods—had little or no technical skill in the kitchen.* But that didn’t deter anyone from embracing home entertaining, Mad Men-style. Commercially-bottled barbecue sauce sent smoke signals throughout suburban backyards; while pre-liberated city housewives struggled to copy ambitious White House menus. (It may not have been Boeuf Bourguignon exactly…but a healthy glug of red wine was probably added to her tried-and-true beef stew.)

To capitalize on these trends a new wave of cookbooks hit the market, featuring budget- or instant-gourmet dishes. (The “I hate to cook” and “how to get and keep a man” genres also thrived.) Eventually all-American Jell-O salads and the humble casseroles of yesteryear were upstaged by French-inspired sauces fashioned from cream of mushroom soup and cooking sherry. (Oooh la la!) Even Americans’ beloved cans took a modern turn with the invention of pull-tab lids.

In both urban and suburban areas, farm-fresh food was something you might encounter only at some remote roadside stand—when the entire family took a long car ride after church on Sunday. Vegetarians were an oddity then; and those who promoted the consumption of fresh, natural foods were called “health nuts.”

It was during this time that an enterprising Swiss-born chef working at the Chalet Suisse restaurant in New York City thought to increase profits by enticing his diet-conscious customers to order dessert. His secret weapon? Melted Toblerone chocolate bars served as a dip with fresh fruit. Dieters eat fruit, right?

The idea was a roaring success. The trend spread not only across the U.S. but to Europe as well, where the Swiss adopted the recipe as their own and started serving it at chic ski resorts. As near as anyone can tell, this was the beginning of the chocolate fondue craze—which still thrives to this day.

In 2013, serve this timeless classic with a selection of flavor-packed, locally-grown fruits from the farmers’ market. Dried fruits and nuts are good for any time of year; but this month think tiny pitted apricot halves; cherries-on-the-stem; chunks of sweet cantaloupe; and big fat strawberries. Lots and lots of strawberries.

Come to think of it, maybe you should double the recipe.

Toblerone Swiss Fondue

Toblerone candy bars are Switzerland’s popular mélange of fine chocolate blended with honey and chopped almonds. Each triangular break-apart chocolate log, reportedly shaped to mimic the Swiss Alps, is tucked neatly inside a distinctive little box. Totally charming.

3/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream

6 (3 1/2-ounce/100g) bars milk chocolate or semisweet Toblerone, broken into individual pieces

2 to 4 tablespoons cognac, to taste

In a medium saucepan, heat the cream over low heat until hot but not boiling. Gradually stir in the chocolate, letting each addition melt before adding more. Stir in the cognac.
Pour the chocolate mixture into a fondue pot and serve warm, not hot. Makes about 2 cups.

Toblerone suggests that if by some chance there is any leftover fondue, it should be refrigerated until firm enough to form into balls, for Toblerone truffles.

*Although Mastering the Art of French Cooking received critical acclaim when first published in 1961, it was not until 1963, when The French Chef came bounding into our homes on PBS, that Julia Child became everyone’s first cooking teacher.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Seeing Red

March 29, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Cherries are starting to appear, so it must be spring.Who needs a calendar when you’ve got the farmers’ market? Cherries are also nature’s way of telling us the fleeting season for apricots isn’t far behind—only to be followed shortly thereafter bythe stone fruits of summer. But I’m getting ahead of myself here…and salivating all the while.

Cherry season starts off slowly with the arrival of the Black Tartarian and Burlat; followed by the blushing yellow Royal Anne and Rainier. (Sour cherries, like the Montmorency or Morello are less common, as they are primarily grown outside of California.) Most agree the West’s dark, meaty Bing is the quintessential cherry, with Lamberts, Sweethearts, and Vans coming in as close seconds in popularity.

When plump, sweet-tart Bing cherries debut at the market, there is nothing better than eating them out of hand, one after another. For days.But once I’ve stained my fingers red—and made endless fruit salads and brandied cherries and cherry pie and cherry chutney and cherry clafouti and cherry-studded rice pudding and cherry ice cream—I often explore unpaved territory for unique ways to celebrate their short season. We can afford to be a little cavalier (she said smugly), since cherries grow locally and one needn’t dip into one’s equity line of credit just to binge on a flat. So Cherry Salsa is my latest indulgence.

It’s really not as crazy (or as sacrilegious) as it may sound. Here in California — where fresh fruit abounds and Latin influences prevail — pineapple, peaches, strawberries, and even watermelon have transitioned into mainstream salsas. The time for cherry salsa has come.

Serve this as a condiment alongside pork or poultry; with tortilla chips or a gooey Jack cheese quesadilla; or piled onto crostini slathered with California goat cheese or brie.

Chopped Cherry Salsa (cha cha cha)

1 pound farm-fresh Bing or other dark, sweet cherries, pitted and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 green onion, finely chopped or thinly sliced
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh jalapeño chile pepper
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
1/8 teaspoon granulated sugar
Dash of salt

In a bowl, combine the cherries, mint, lime juice, onion, jalapeño, ginger, sugar, and salt. Toss gently to dissolve the sugar. Serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours. Serve at cool room temperature.

Bing Bling

Cherries, which date back to at least 300 B.C., were named after the Turkish town of Ceracus.

The Bing cherry—across between the Tartarian and Royal Anne—was developed in Oregon in 1875 by Seth Lewalling. Legend has it that because he didn’t have enough money to pay his Chinese cook’s wages, he named the new cherry after him.

Before you balk at the price of organic cherries, please consider that organic crops yield about 25 percent fewer cherries than those grown with conventional farming methods.The price of healthy eating.

When shopping, look for cherries that are shiny, plump, and firm.

A pliable green stem is the sign of a just-picked cherry.Cherries-on-the-stem also tend to last longer.

Refrigerate cherries, unwashed, in an open plastic bag. It’s best to eat them within 5 days of purchase.

To preserve stemmed pitted cherries for baking year ‘round, flash-freeze them on a rimmed baking sheet until solid; then pack into freezer-safe bags or airtight plastic containers. Use frozen, not thawed.

A cherry-pitter is an inexpensive kitchen tool that makes the job a breeze. (It works a bit like a paper punch, forcing the pit out of the cherry.) Lacking one, just remove the pit with the tip of a small, sharp knife.

Cherry juice can stain your hands, so you may want to wear latex gloves — and an apron — while pitting them.

For a casually delicious ending to any meal, rinse perfect ripe cherries and pat them dry. Working one at a time and holding each by the stem, dip the cherries in melted dark or white chocolate and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet; then refrigerate until the chocolate coating is firm. (This is an especially charming presentation for “twins”—2 cherries joined at the stem.) Just be sure to warn your guests these cherry-chocolate bonbons contain pits.) The same effect can be had (with a lot less labor on your part) by serving a big mound of cherries with a warm pot of creamy chocolate fondue.

Eschew those scary iridescent cherries sold in jars, and make your own boozy ones to garnish cocktails or desserts. For each pint jar you’ll need about 1 pound of fresh cherries. Rinse them well and pat dry; pit them or not, as you like. (If you don’t pit them, prick each cherry 2 or 3 times so the liquor will penetrate the fruit.) Pack cherries into a sterilized jar, cover with bourbon, rye, brandy, kirsch, or Maraschino liqueur, and refrigerate. When all the cherries have been eaten, mix the remaining alcohol in cocktails.

Gotta go now. I think it’s time for a Manhattan.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Fifty Shades of Green

March 6, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

March is a transitional month at the farmers’ market, when spring crops slowly find their way into our weekly shopping expeditions. Few can resist the lure of early strawberries—and, to my way of thinking, no one should. But we’re also presented with a glorious proliferation of green…right in time for St. Patrick’s Day… artichokes; avocados; fava beans; tiny spring lettuces; spinach; and tender young peas of all persuasions—from common peas-in-the-pod to crunchy sugar-snaps. These are a far cry from the scary green vegetables that may have traumatized your childhood.

As a kid, I never would have guessed I could muster up honest enthusiasm over asparagus. (But then, I didn’t realize it actually had a “season.” It came from the freezer.) Unlike the stuff you see floor-stacked year ‘round at the warehouse store, spring asparagus has an incomparably delicate, sweet taste. Fortunately much of our nation’s supply is grown locally and now readily available to us, so freshness is a given. What we find at the farmers’ market is not only top-quality; it has been harvested within the past 24 hours. And not shipped half-way around the country. Or world.

There are zillions of elaborate recipes designed to highlight this elegant vegetable; but on a busy weeknight, time is of the essence. And we all know that few dinners can be thrown together faster than a sandwich. (C’mon. Admit it. You’ve gone there.) But give that sandwich a fancy French name and serve it open-faced with a salad of mixed greens and a glass of crisp rosé, and you’ve suddenly got a perfectly respectable lunch for guests. (And they’ll know these weren’t ordered-in from the local deli.) For brunch, you could top off each tartine with a poached egg. Oh mama.

I look upon this recipe as a serendipitous opportunity to use up all those little bits of cheese that accumulate in the refrigerator. Any cheese will work; but I find a combination of Gruyere, Mozzarella, and Parmesan sufficiently gooey and plenty delicious.

Cheesy Asparagus Tartines

1 1/2 tablespoons California olive oil
16 thin asparagus spears, tough ends removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 of a small red onion, thinly sliced
4 long slices (about 3/4-inch thick)from a round loaf of crusty artisan bread
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup olive tapenade or basil pesto (store-bought is fine)
2 cups (or more) shredded or grated cheese
4 very thin slices prosciutto or ham (optional)
Aged balsamic vinegar, truffle oil, or finely chopped parsley

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, add the asparagus and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, turning, until the asparagus turns bright green, about 1 minute. Remove the asparagus from the skillet and set aside.
Add the remaining 1/2tablespoon of oil to the skillet and warm over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
Position the oven rack 3- to 4-inches from the top and preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a foil-lined baking sheet and cook, turning once, until very lightly toasted, about 2 minutes total. Do not turn off the broiler.
Leaving the bread on the baking sheet, spread each slice with 1 tablespoon each of mayonnaise and tapenade and top with a slice of prosciutto. Divide the onion evenly among the slices, and top each with about 1/4 cup of the cheese. Arrange 4 asparagus spears on top and sprinkle evenly with the remaining cheese. Broil about 2 minutes, watching carefully, until the cheese is melted through and bubbly-hot. Drizzle with a tiny bit of balsamic vinegar or truffle oil, or sprinkle with parsley. Serve at once. Pass the peppermill at the table. Serves 4.

ASPARAGUS TIPS

When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvesting, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.
If your taste leans toward the exotic, remember that white asparagus is comparatively bland; and that purple asparagus turns green when cooked.
White asparagus is the very same vegetable; it’s just grown differently. The stalks are covered with soil during the growing period to block out the sun, so they never produce chlorophyll—and never turn green.
To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.
Thick or thin? Like people, it’s often the luck of the draw. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants tend to produce thicker spears. It’s as simple as that.
To store, wrap unwashed asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in an open plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inchof water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim off the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

STALKING IDEAS FOR ASPARAGUS

Steam or stir-fry it if you prefer, but roasting asparagus highlights its inherent grassy-nutty flavor. To roast asparagus: On a rimmed baking sheet, toss asparagus with just enough olive oil to coat lightly. Spread the spears in an even layer and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 425 degree oven, shaking the pan once or twice, until lightly browned at the edges and the stems are crisp-tender, 7 to 12 minutes, depending on the thickness.
Serve roasted asparagus as is, or topped with a shower of grated cheese or toasted sliced almonds. Or, for a change, brown panko breadcrumbs in butter with a bit of finely chopped fresh mint and lemon zest; then scatter over the top.
If you’ve already fired up the outdoor grill, toss the uncooked spears lightly with olive oil and arrange them diagonally on the grill (so they don’t fall through) and cook, turning with tongs, for 4 to 8 minutes, until crisp-tender. You’ll get that same delicious caramelization that comes from oven-roasting. Indoor grills work perfectly well, too—though it may take a bit longer to cook.
For a slightly addictive appetizer, dip fresh asparagus spears in a tempura or light beer batter. Deep-fry and serve warm, with either a squeeze of lemon or a favorite dipping sauce.
Roast asparagus spears until just barely tender. When cool enough to handle, wrap with paper-thin slices of prosciutto or other ham, roast beef, or turkey. Serve at room temperature, drizzled with a bit of balsamic vinegar, if you like.
Why not a raw asparagus salad? Trim off and discard the ends from the fattest spears you can find; then shave them lengthwise on a mandolin or other mechanical slicer. Season the thin slices with salt and pepper, then toss with fruity California olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmesan cheese over the top.
When you find thin asparagus, try Chef Anne Burrell’s take on the raw asparagus salad: Cut the trimmed spears crosswise into thin rounds; then toss with diced red onion and plenty of finely grated Pecorino cheese. Drizzle with red wine vinegar and fruity olive oil, and season with kosher salt.
Make an Asian-inspired salad by topping roasted and cooled asparagus with a squeeze of fresh orange juice and a drizzle each of sesame oil and soy sauce. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and garnish with peeled orange slices or segments.
Tuck roasted asparagus spears into omelets, quiche, or frittatas dotted with crumbled California goat cheese; or in simple pasta dishes or risotto.
Glam up brunch by serving a poached egg over roasted asparagus spears, with or without a slice of smoked salmon or Fontina cheese…or a generous drizzle of Hollandaise. Serve slices of toasted crusty artisan bread on the side

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

The best way to prepare for the onslaught of spring entertaining is to add a few new recipes to your repertoire. Check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Blackhawk cooking school on Tuesday, April 30, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

February Musings – Market Fresh

February 5, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Most of us have undergone a detox (of sorts) since January 1. But between the Super Bowl and Valentine’s Day and The Year of the Snake and every other holiday-centric excuse we find for feasting, our food choices expand right along with our waistlines. Though February is nothing like the sugar-fest of December, most have us have now settled into a more realistic approach to healthy living. A few carbs here; a few fats there—all manage to keep us sated and sassy.

Through thick and thin, the farmers’ market remains the portal to healthy living. Along with juicy citrus fruits, apples, pears and other sweet reminders of winter, this month — with early crops like sugar snap peas and strawberries — offers a sneak-peak of what’s in store. And as we wait for spring to get into full swing, it’s the perfect opportunity to explore less common vegetables at the market.

Unless you grew up in an Italian household, chances are your mom never served fennel. And if you still haven’t tried it as an adult, you’ve got a lot of catching up to do. If you’ve been scared off by descriptions that compare its taste to licorice, read on.

Florence fennel — also called finocchioor bulb fennel — has a delicate, sweet flavor vaguely reminiscent of anise. (In fact, supermarkets often mislabel it as such—though anise has a far more pronounced licorice flavor.) Fennel is sweet and mild in its natural state; and even more so when cooked. If you’ve been on the fence, now is the time to take the plunge: its prime growing season in California is October through April, when we are likely to find the most tender “baby fennel.”

In addition to its delicate flavor, there are a couple more selling points: Fennel’s texture is crisp when raw, yet meltingly tender when cooked. And these odd-looking veggies are completely edible: the bulb itself, the celery-like stalks that rise from the bulb, and the feathery green fronds on top.

Asiago-Fennel Gratin

2 medium-size fennel bulbs, rinsed and trimmed
1/2 cup chicken stock or reduced-sodium broth
2 1/2 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Refrigerate or freeze the fennel stalks for another use, and reserve a few fennel fronds for garnish. Cut each fennel bulb in half lengthwise; then cut each half into 2 or 3 wedges. Arrange the wedges, cut-side up, in a 9-inch-square or other shallow 2-quart baking dish.
Gently pour the stock over the fennel wedges; then drizzle with the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and sprinkle evenly with the cheese. Continue baking, uncovered, until cheese is lightly browned and the fennel is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve warm, or let cool to room temperature. Just before serving, finely chop the reserved fennel fronds and scatter over the top. Serves 4.

Getting Familiar with Fennel

The seeds used to flavor Italian sausage — as well as many other foods — come from a very different, bulb-less variety known simply as Common fennel.
Look for firm, pale bulbs of Florence fennel with a pearly sheen and no blemishes. The dill-like green fronds on top should appear bright and fresh.
Refrigerate whole, unwashed fennel in a plastic bag. Stalks and fronds are best used within a couple of days. (Or freeze the stalks to add Mediterranean flair to future soups and stews.) Fennel bulbs remain fresh in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
To prepare fennel, rinse with cold water and pat dry. Cut off the green fronds and use as you would any fresh herb — as a garnish or flavor enhancer. Cut off the celery-like stalks, peel with a vegetable peeler, and add to dishes as you would celery. Using a small, sharp knife, trim the base of the bulb, removing any browned or tough spots. To slice, use a chef’s knife to cut the bulb in half lengthwise; then crosswise into strips. (Use a mandoline or V-slicer for paper-thin strips.) Alternatively, cut the bulb halves lengthwise into halves or quarters.
If fennel becomes limp, refresh it in ice water for about 30 minutes.
Add thin slices of raw fennel to salads; or include small wedges on a crudité platter.
1 cup of raw sliced fennel is less than 30 calories. It is a significant source of vitamin C, with 3 grams of fiber and 6 grams of carbohydrate.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Starting Fresh

January 14, 2013 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

New year. New resolutions. The best of intentions.

So how’s it working out for you? I am much less idealistic than I was in my younger years (and this applies to all sorts of things). Now I am simply determined not to beat myself up over an occasional dietary infraction, especially since the “rules” I break are self-imposed to begin with. Instead, I just hold my double-chins high and carry on. One day at a time.

The easiest way for me to stay on track doesn’t embrace fashion crimes involving rubber-soled shoes and clothing made from stretchy synthetic fibers. What I put in my mouth is more important than what I put on my body. So instead of spending Saturday mornings sweating in a stuffy gym, my regime revolves around the farmers’ market.

I know I can’t stray far off track when I shop there. With no freezer section or candy aisle or liquor department to divert my attention, I can feel quite virtuous. Even if I go a little heavy on the carbs one week (who can resist those loaves of freshly-baked bread?), I know that everything I’ve purchased is at least wholesome, if not downright nutritious. For me, that’s about as good as it gets. So as I’m leaving the market, I reward myself with a bouquet of fresh flowers. Yup, that’s how I roll.

One of the cruel ironies of life is that the new year begins in winter, when our natural inclination is to hibernate in the coziness of our homes; when nothing beats comfort food on a chilly evening. But “comfort” doesn’t have to mean giant bags of potato chips or gloppy sauces made from salty canned soup. Nor does it ever mean a scoop of cottage cheese or a few limp lettuce leaves. Somewhere, there is a happy median. And I think it might be spaghetti squash.

Everybody understands zucchini and crookneck squash. But winter squash? Not so much. Sure, they can be huge and unwieldy, but all that’s needed is a sharp knife and a little confidence. Spaghetti squash is good for beginners, as it is reasonably easy to cut. Look for pale yellow (or orange) watermelon-shaped squash that are smooth and firm. And here’s the best part: 1 cup of spaghetti squash contains only 31 calories and 7 grams of carbohydrate.

Serve this as a side dish with broiled chicken or fish fillets, or as a light entrée with a big crunchy green salad. Recipes like this one beg for improvisation, so feel free to add chopped fresh herbs or whatever else you generally like in your spaghetti sauce. For a change of pace, use kale pesto (from last month’s column) instead of marinara sauce; or simply drizzle the shredded squash with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Sort-of Spaghetti

1 smallish spaghetti squash (about 2 1/4 pounds)
3/4 cup marinara sauce (homemade or store-bought), warmed until hot
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese or crumbled California Goat Cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Using a cleaver or large, very sharp knife, cut the squash in half lengthwise.*(You don’t need to remove the seeds at this point. It’s easier to do after the squash has cooked.
Spray a rimmed baking sheet with no-stick cooking spray. Place the squash, cut-sides down, on the sheet and pour in about 1/4-inch of water. Bake until the squash is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 45 minutes.
Carefully scrape out and discard the seeds. Drag the tines of a fork across the flesh of the squash, forming long strands. Divide the mixture among 4 warm, shallow bowls or plates. Top with marinara sauce and pass cheese at the table. Serves 3 to 4.

*Alternatively, pierce the whole spaghetti squash several times with the tip of a sharp knife. Microwave on High, turning once, until tender, 12 to 13 minutes. When cool enough to handle, cut the squash in half lengthwise and proceed as directed in Step 3.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Warming the Soul

December 6, 2012 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

After a long day of alternately elbowing your way through crowds and then sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the promise of a warm, home-cooked meal is a reasonable fantasy. Throughout most of this busy month, however, it is often easier to imagine than accomplish.

Even in the darkest of days, soup remains the ultimate comfort food; and when it’s homemade—all the better. If you think that making a pot of soup is beyond your capabilities this week, think again. This steamy stunner is made from inexpensive ingredients you’ll most likely have on hand; and it’s a lot healthier than most of the other stuff we’re eating this month. It also comes together in 1 hour or less, and offers the sort of soothing aromatherapy you’ll never find at the perfume counter at the mall. As an added bonus, it may even steam up your kitchen windows as it simmers on the stove.(I’m all about bringing cozy back.)Served with or without a salad to start, a loaf of warm crusty bread rounds out this satisfying meal. When the spirit moves you, feel free to substitute winter squash for the potatoes. Or spice things up by sautéing a chopped jalapeño along with the garlic. The possibilities are endless. Think of this soup as a canvas awaiting your signature.

Kale Pesto is my current passion. Here, a mere dollop adds incomparable pizazz to soup; but it can be used the same as any other pesto: as a zesty spread for panini or crostini; stirred into yogurt or sour cream for a delicious dip; tossed with warm pasta for a quick sauce; or spooned on top of grilled chicken or salmon for a memorable condiment.

Whenever I visit the farmers’ market this month, I will inevitably shop for holiday gifts right along with my groceries. In addition to bargain-priced wreaths, plants, and flowers, I can’t resist picking up a few fragrant lavender goodies; a bottle or two of locally produced olive oil; fruit-infused vinegars; sweet-tart artisan jams and preserves; locally-produced honey; little bags of hand-crafted toffee; fresh-from-the-farm dried fruits and nuts; and glistening jars of sun-dried tomatoes. Gifts of good taste never go out of style. And there is no better way to show gratitude to the people who grow the food we eat.

Creamy Potato Soup…without cream

2 tablespoons California olive oil or butter
11/2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
6 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth, or as needed
Fine sea salt
Dash of cayenne pepper
1 cup Greek-style plain yogurt (low-fat or nonfat), at room temperature
Optional: Kale Pesto (recipe follows)

In a soup pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat until hot. Add the potatoes and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and garlic and cook 1 minute longer.
Pour in the stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir in about 2 teaspoons of salt. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very tender when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Puree the mixture with a hand-held “stick” blender. (Alternatively, let mixture cool for about 20 minutes. Working in batches, puree in a blender until smooth. Return mixture to the soup pot and cook over medium heat until hot; then remove from the heat.) If you prefer a thinner soup, stir in enough warm stock or water to reach the desired consistency. (Soup can be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate, covered; or freeze for longer storage. Reheat before proceeding to Step 4.)
In a medium bowl, whisk the yogurt until light and fluffy. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the warm soup mixture; then return all to the pot, whisking gently just until the yogurt is well incorporated. Season with cayenne and additional salt as needed. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and top each serving with a dollop of Kale Pesto. Serve at once. Serves 6 to 8.

Kale Pesto

2 garlic cloves, cut into pieces
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
3 cups (packed) coarsely chopped kale leaves
1/3 cup chopped California walnuts, toasted
1/3 cup freshly grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
1/3 cup California olive oil, or as needed

In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic and salt. Process until the garlic is finely chopped. Add the kale, walnuts, cheese, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, and pepper flakes. Process, pulsing the machine on and off and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until a coarse paste forms. With the machine running, pour in the 1/3 cup olive oil. Use at once, or transfer to a container and cover with a thin film of olive oil. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days. Freeze for longer storage.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by supporting the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

Giving Thanks…with a Twist

November 2, 2012 by Peggy Fallon Leave a Comment

Each November the food magazines reinvent Thanksgiving. That’s their job. The problem is that your friends and family don’t want any part of it. They look forward to eating the exact same meal you’ve been serving every year for as long as anyone can remember.

Indeed, this is no time to mess with tradition. None of Norman Rockwell’s stylized grandmas ever pulled a turducken out of the oven. Thanksgiving should be the ultimate comfort-meal; a stroll down Memory Lane. But that doesn’t stop me from sneaking in at least one new dish each year, just to satisfy my own creative yearnings. And the farmers’ market is where I go to seek inspiration.

To begin with, shopping in the crisp morning air is far more appealing than swapping germs in a crowded supermarket. It is also a mutually beneficial way to show our gratitude to the people who grow the foods we eat all year ‘round. And the November farmers’ market is surprisingly colorful.

I have a passion for fiery orange persimmons — as beautiful sitting on the counter as they are unique in recipes. You’ll find two very distinct varieties at the market this month. The larger of the two, the Hachiya, has an elongated teardrop shape with a pointed tip. Because they are so fragile when ripe, they are sold while still firm and inedible. Hachiya persimmons also contain bitter tannins that make them unpleasantly astringent to eat when the flesh is even slightly firm to the touch. After a week or more at room temperature, however, the fruit is tangy-sweet and ripe when it becomes jelly-soft—like a water balloon—making it a favorite addition to moist cakes, quick breads, cookies, and steamed puddings.

No less beautiful, the squat, flat-bottomed Fuyu persimmon is shaped more like a tomato. There is no waiting period before enjoying this variety since they should be eaten crisp, like an apple. The only bad news here is that persimmon season is short, so it’s now or never.

Salad is usually a good way to introduce an unfamiliar fruit or vegetable to suspicious relatives. (Yes, salad. Not every dish at Thanksgiving needs to be drowning in dairy products or buried under a gooey cloud of marshmallows.) The following is light and colorful; and the pleasantly bitter greens provide a refreshing counterpoint to the rich foods that are so much a part of a traditional meal. Play around with the ingredients if you like, by adding a scattering of jewel-like pomegranate seeds for extra seasonal glamour, or by substituting crumbled California goat cheese for the Parmesan.

This salad can stand alone as a first course, if that’s how you roll … though Thanksgiving at my house tends to be a raucous all-you-can-eat never-ending buffet. (In the most elegant possible way, of course.) I was born on Thanksgiving, so I figure that gives me a free pass for any breach of etiquette.

Winter Greens with Persimmons and Sweet-and-Spicy Walnuts

For the dressing:

Freshly squeezed juice from 1 orange (about 1/3 cup)
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup California olive oil

For the salad:

4 Fuyu persimmons, caps cut out, peeled
10 cups baby arugula leaves or mixed baby lettuces (about 10 ounces)
8 cups mixed chicories, such as: coarsely chopped curly endive, shredded radicchio or Treviso, and coarsely torn frisée;
1/2 cup pitted and coarsely chopped Medjool dates
1 cup Sweet-and-Spicy Walnuts (recipe follows)
1 (3-ounce) chunk Parmesan cheese, at room temperature

To make the dressing:

In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, vinegar, mustard, honey, salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil until blended. (The dressing can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead. Whisk well before using.)
Using a mandoline or other vegetable slicer, cut the persimmons into paper-thin slices, taking care to remove any seeds. (Alternatively, persimmons can be cut into 1/4-inch wedges.)
In a large bowl, combine the arugula, chicories, persimmons, and dates. Drizzle all but 1 or 2 tablespoons of dressing over the top. Add the walnuts and toss gently to coat. Taste, adding the remaining dressing if needed. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmesan over the top. Serves 12.

Sweet-and-Spicy Walnuts

1/4 cup light brown sugar
2 Tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
1/8 teaspoon chipotle chili powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup California walnut halves and pieces

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a small baking sheet with foil and spray with no-stick cooking spray.
In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar, maple syrup, salt, chili powder, and cayenne. Stir to blend. Add the walnuts, tossing to coat.
Spread the mixture on the prepared baking sheet and bake, stirring once, until the walnuts are glazed and lightly browned and the sugary coating is bubbly-hot, 25 to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool to cool completely. Break the nuts into bite-size pieces. Use at once, or store in an airtight container. Makes 1 cup.

Does your holiday recipe repertoire need an extreme makeover? Check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Blackhawk cooking school on Wednesday, November 14, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by supporting the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.