Toby Tullis

Best In Show Hot Dogs

December 6, 2012 by Toby Tullis 1 Comment

Make no mistake about it, this article is 100% ego driven. Sometimes even more valuable than the check to keep the lights on is the all important “bragging rights” that come with a confident foreshadowing, and I have the full confidence that one day I am going to be able to say that I knew Jesse and Erin before their first hot dog cart.

Truth be told, I have had Best In Show Hot Dogs on my writing docket since the minute I was gifted the opportunity to write about food in our area. I worked with Jesse at Forbes Mill Steakhouse and listened to Jesses “pipe dream” on numerous occasions. “Oh the things he could do with a pickup truck and a hot dog cart.” We have all heard it before until you find that person years later at a different restaurant, pouring the same drinks, serving the same food, and telling the same story…”oh the things I could have done….” But not Jesse. In the short amount of time since he left the Steakhouse, Jesse Gilbert-LaVere and his other half, Erin Ernst, have realized their dreams by building their product, reputation, and dare I say, empire.

It’s just a hot dog cart you say. I say you are wrong. Best In Show opened in July 2010 with a philanthropic philosophy and a working knowledge of the clients they serve. This mobile duo has exactly what it takes to make it big and they have carefully cultivated their passion to an award winning business venture.

The corner stone of this beef dispensary is their charitable work within our community. They have represented multiple little league organizations, schools, fund raisers, and church events on stages as large as the Oakland Coliseum and every time they do they give 30% of their profits back to the cause they are working for. Best In Show selflessly donated their services and 700 hot dogs to the 9/11 event for San Ramon Fire in 2011. They are the only mobile vending business in the tri-valley to earn a 5 star rating on yelp and work directly with Troops Direct. In a word, they are established, not to mention, they make the best hot dog I have had in years. The kind of flavor that brings you back to a better time and reopens an experience you had as a child.

The cart only serves Evergood Hot Dogs and Sausages including Hot Links, Chicken Apple, and Polish Dogs served on authentic Chicago Poppy Seed Buns, and no cart would be complete without your standard toppings of Ketchup, Mustard and nuclear green Chicago Relish to which Jesse added Chili, Cheese, Sauerkraut, Celery Salt, 2 kinds of peppers and Fried Onions. Further proving that the proverbial finger is on the pulse, Jesse pays attention to the weather, and if the forecast calls for a cooler evening then look for his homemade Southern Style BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwiches.

Charity is the corner stone, but business smarts drive the success and Jesse can be found outside Meenars Bar in Danville Thursday-Saturday from 10pm-2:14am (smart enough to have a firm quitting time to minimize the challenges that can come from hungry patrons leaving any bar at 2am), but just in time to set up shop Sunday mornings at the Walnut Creek Farmers Market on Locust and Cole.

His team has grown, his equipment has multiplied and his visions continue to soar and Jesse hopes to move his empire indoors soon and is currently shopping for a brick-and-mortar solution (insert potential bragging rights here).

Let me remind you that Burger King, McDonald’s and In-n-Out all started with this American Dream foundation and I have no doubt that Jesse’s generations will be supported by what was once a simple hot dog cart and a man with a dream.

Best In Show Hot Dogs, www.bestinshowhotdogs.com, 925-330-3429
email- mustardandonion@gmail.com

Incontro and the Shameless Plug

November 2, 2012 by Toby Tullis Leave a Comment

First and foremost, exactly who am I? I figure that our budding relationship has reached the point that I might adequately introduce myself as well as fill you in on a little method behind the madness.

I am a 17-year veteran of the restaurant game here in the Tri-Valley and San Francisco. I was Dining Room Manager at Ruby Hill Golf Club, Assistant GM at Forbes Mill Steakhouse and the Manager at Walnut Creek Yacht Club, where I successfully wrenched myself from Food and Beverage in the hopes of doing something “greater.”

Currently I install and train medical clinic staffs on IT operating systems in developing countries (a whole other story) which has given me a whole new appreciation for our corner of the globe.

I left the food game clutching my completed manuscript entitled, “What Seems to be the Problem?”; a satirical advice piece on how to not be “that guy” when dining out or looking for employment at your local watering hole/feeding trough. I hope to have this published and delivered to you all soon.

What exactly is my criteria for the places that I deliver to you on a monthly basis? Let this be heard: I am a lone ink slinger! Nobody paves the road I traverse. I write about things that inspire me, or at best move into my line of site and stay there for reasons that beg to be explored by the written word. Nobody hands me my “assignment” for the month or offers goodies to write about their restaurants. I am not anonymous—Toby is my real name. I don’t hide and I’m not sure in advance what I’m going to write about. In addition, I make honest mistakes. I forget to mention names. I make inadvertent references to one place while writing about another. I write without a net. I will not write a negative review. While I am not impervious to negative dining experiences I figure that I only get to talk to you all once a month and that time is better spent exploring the amazing places our area has to offer.

Most importantly, I was recently drawn back into the business, if only temporarily, and can be found behind the bar at Incontro, a beautiful Italian Restaurant that inhabits the old La Ultima restaurant on the main strip in Danville. While my time there mostly serves the purpose of helping my friend and GM, Jenny Finke, get her gorgeous bar established in the neighborhood, I am secretly having the time of my life. The staff is professional and worldly, the food is ridiculously amazing, and I fell in love with the bar upon first sight. Eight seats, specific selection of spirits and Italian Wines, flat screen TV, top lit wood and mirrors, and a huge picture window looking past the elevated Victorian porch and stone patio onto the main strip of Danville. The whole scene really needs to be painted by Norman Rockwell.

Incontro moved owners and property roughly a year ago literally down the street by a few miles from San Ramon. The atmosphere of the newly renovated property is old-worldly. Soft light and compartmented dining rooms allows for diners to truly feel like you are a guest in an Italian home and being served the type of meal that will allow you to feel you had your passport stamped. The wine list showcases modest, yet thorough, selections of Italian wines but true to their understanding of our community, tasting notes have been added to each selection.

I may or may not be behind the bar when you arrive, but do not let that stop you from coming in and sitting down. In a word — come for the Toby, stay for the pasta. Once again, you will thank me!

I’ll Have What He’s Having: Pho

October 9, 2012 by Toby Tullis Leave a Comment

Allow me a moment to appropriately generalize: As Americans we love Asian Culture foods, and for very good reason. Tradition and trends prove my point. In the late 80’s Chinese restaurants dotted the Tri Valley like Starbucks do today, and in the 2000s Sushi establishments became more common than the cold. What I have found that I feel better after a good Asian meal. You know that “better full” rather than the “red-meat covered in gravy” full.

Lately, a new trend has arisen. Like many other wonderful trends, it came on subtly until our eyes and minds were forced to recognize the fact that there sure were a lot of Pho places opening, and oh yeah, what is Pho?

Simply put, Pho is Vietnamese noodle bowl. A simple concoction of the freshest possible ingredients submerged in a broth that takes forever to make. I say “forever” because these recipes, like so many other traditional recipes, have been handed down from generation to generation. In some cases they have outlasted even family names, surviving as a treasured heirloom.

I have been partaking of this “death-row” meal for the past ten years and am only able to properly write about it after returning from Vietnam earlier last month. My only reference of this holy bowl of goodness came from American soil and not the “real deal.” Sure I had my favorite place to get it (once a week) but until last month I didn’t realize that Pho Saigon is the “real deal”.

They have taken the often street side in Vietnam prepared dish and reproduced it perfectly for all of us to enjoy at tables and booths! The separation in the broth left in the bowl of tiny fatty oil bubbles and the dark cloudy liquid that screams of time, love and flavor properly allow me to now know, this is real. This came from Vietnam.

So here is the presentation: I order a number seven. Number seven is simply rare brisket, tripe, and tendon. Please note that you do not have to go the way of organ meats; it’s just highly recommended. Brisket and beef or chicken is a very valid option for the less than adventurous.

The bowl comes quickly with your cloudy, seasoned, piping-hot broth, filled with rice noodles and your meat selection. The point is that the broth is so hot, it cooks your meat. Brilliant in its simplicity. The coup de grâce is the plate of fresh—very fresh—veggies. Sprouts, cilantro, Thai basil, jalapenos and lime wedges arrive with the bowl for your adding pleasure.

The set-up, to be done in the lengthy five minutes you wait for your food, is your place setting. A shallow cup of Sriracha Hot Sauce and Hoisin Sauce with the consistency of molasses, lie in wait next to your Asian soup spoon and chopsticks to be loaded up per bite.

The magical thing about Pho is that it is the cure to what ails you. Need to scrape the wool off your tongue from a late night previous, or stop a head cold at first symptoms? You need Pho!

I have been to many Pho places since my addiction began, but have yet to find anything as complete and authentic than Pho Saigon. Located in Walnut Creek and Dublin and the recently added Ipho (cute) in Danville, they offer plenty of opportunity to indulge. The key is to not be afraid of new things. They are very customer oriented and ready to teach the novice how to consume this treasure.

There are only a couple of places we go on a regular basis and Pho Saigon on 11560 Newell Ave in Walnut Creek is one one of them.

If you really want what I’m having, you can start with Pho.

I’ll Have What He’s Having – That Bar and Grill

September 3, 2012 by Toby Tullis 1 Comment

With the not-so-recent explosion of food exposure on television, dining out too often ends up with that “been there, done that” flavor — that is until you venture into That Bar and Grill in Danville. The bottom line is: If you haven’t been there, you haven’t done that!

The theme is dueling pianos, and yes, if you have never been to New Orleans, it is literally the coolest thing west of the Mississippi!

Owner / Operators Stephany and Ashley are everything that one can hope for with a newer enterprise. They are not the women behind the curtain but rather a hard working, hands-on duo that spend their valuable time tending bar and forging the ever-important personal relationships that living in a small town require. Being local themselves not only gives them the know-how but the drive to make sure that we will know them for a while.

The piano bar motif is the difference but the food is the comforting familiarity….with a twist.

That Bar just recently added “and grill” to remind all of us that beyond the place to go for any of your televised sporting events, brown bag beer specials on PBR, sing along entertainment, corn hole tournaments (call and ask), or goldfish races (also a good reason to call), they have food. Good food!

Chef Francisco Ruiz, formally of Blue Footed Booby Canoe Club and Fat Cactus, has done his work and done it well. This man never went to work, he went to school, learning tricks of his trade as he went along, finally entering an arena where he could flex his culinary muscle.

A few notable things set Chef Ruiz apart. First, with barely enough room in the small kitchen for him to spread his wings, he did his work in advance. (I know because I went and visited him there a month before they opened and he had the look and the sweat of a man who was serving a party of 300). He was already fine tuning each individual dish to fit into that illusive category of “different yet familiar.” That frees up his day-to-day to create specials at will—and create he does—one dish, one ingredient at a time.

Not just a kids menu, but a Little Rockers Menu
Not just fries, nachos and wings but Clams, Pizza Bites and Goat Cheese Dip.
Not just grilled cheese and BLT’s but Monte Cristos and Caprese.
Not just roasted chicken breast, ham steak and beef stew, but Scallops, Risotto, Ahi Tuna Steak and Ribs.

And Burgers? How about the eating challenge that has gained national notoriety—five pounds of melty, meaty goodness.

Fine dining flare in a relaxed environment with grill prices! Yes Please!

It seems almost silly to say, but sometimes you just want a good salad, and there’s nothing more dismaying than opening a menu and getting to choose between mixed greens or Caesar…blah!

My favorite lunch dish at That Bar and Grill is the Popcorn Chicken Salad with avocado as an ingredient, not just an “add-on.”

People are talking about That Bar and Grill and for good reason. The owners have their plan and execution in working order. They care and take great pride in what they do — and it shows. They fly in piano talent from all over the country and don’t try to get the expenses back on the menu. They are the Sam and Diane of Danville and quite simply put, if you have not been there before then you really must find out what everybody is talking about. This isn’t a bar and grill…It’s “That Bar and Grill.”

I’ll Have What He’s Having

August 5, 2012 by Toby Tullis 1 Comment

I eat out, and not always because I am hungry. After years of calling the restaurant industry home as a manager, sometimes I just need to feel the buzz of the experience. These visits go far beyond the order, eat, pay cycle of the everyday diner. I enjoy seeing the kitchen layout, the POS (point of sale) operating system, the ingredients on the menu, and the moods of the service staff. I always form an educated opinion on whether a particular establishment will survive or not, and quite frankly I have been right more than I have been wrong.

Now that I have properly huffed the wind into my own sails, let me share with you a pleasant Danville surprise.

Rewind briefly to the 4^th of July. My wife and one year-old niece settled into the first place that offered unpopulated shade to watch the Kiwanis Parade and it just so happened that this non-descript oasis offered traditional, soft serve ice cream cones as a refreshing ode to Americana nostalgia. We entered Iron Horse Deli and BBQ, eager to indulge as I immediately went into analysis mode.

The décor was an understated train motif paying homage to the origin of the Iron Horse Trail and met with the smokey smells of brisket coming from the back. Very 4^th of July appropriate. We came for ice cream but left with a buy-one-get-one coupon for breakfast.

Fast forward to Sunday. It was time to use the coupon. By nature I am not a huge breakfast eater and therefore harder to please in such instances but I was intrigued by the unique variations of “Eggs Benedict.” and settled on the Texas Benedict.

I was completely unprepared for the bright-light, angelic experience I was about to have.

Two light and buttery buttermilk biscuits topped with an Angus (hamburger) patty and smothered in bacon chunky country gravy. Oh my stars! After the first bite I was very aware that this simple combination of flavors and textures was in the top five of all time, but as I mopped up the last bits of gravy with my finger….MY FINGER, I knew it was “top two.” I remember when I was 16 in Tahoe when I was served a fresh salmon, caper, onion and cilantro bagel plate. This will always be my first breakfast crush, but here I was, many years later, being struck by crush number two.

I immediately began looking for other things I could try that were unique to this place, and found the BBQ sauce caddies by the serve yourself soda fountain. Three different sauces, mild, sweet and hot all made in-house. I retrieved them all and brought them back to our table for some connoiseuring.

Our “far too busy” to chat server Kathleen stopped what she was doing to come over and not only describe each sauce in elaborate detail, but offer her opinion on each. I knew she had to be the owner so I asked. “No, I’m not the owner,” she said, “I just really love the food here.”

Okay, in case you’re keeping score, this representative is exactly the kind of employee that restaurants need in order to survive.

I explained how blown away I was by my meal and she offered that “that’s good to hear, because we might stop serving breakfast. It’s just not catching on.” Don’t let this happen.

Looking out our window at Hartz avenue, being surrounded by train items, watching the American Flag flap in the breeze out front and being served an extraordinary meal by Kathleen, made me appreciate all over again how fortunate we are to call this area “home.” Moreover it made me hungry to return for the BBQ specialty. I recommend that you do the same.