Q. I want to plant Raspberries and Blackberries in a six-foot-wide side yard. How might I control the underground runners? I’m considering planting the vines in the ground or building a raised bed with a root barrier. Which option do you favor?
A. You’re correct in being concerned about the underground stems or rhizomes. Raspberries and Blackberries, also known as cane berries, are very intrusive and do not respect a property line. Planting them on any shared fence is a major mistake. You’ll have a difficult time controlling the vegetative growth that grows through and under the fence into your neighbor’s yard. Cane berries are a guaranteed expensive, neighbor dispute waiting to happen. So, I’d be looking to plant them off the fence line in a two-foot high, four-foot wide raised bed. A ‘root barrier’ is always a good idea whether the vines are in a raised bed or in the ground as another layer of protection. In the center of the bed construct a ‘T-bar’ trellis; a 4×8 post every six feet with a 2×4 cross beam, with wires running between the supports and attach the vines to the wire. Also, with the vines off the fence line, you are able to harvest the berries from both sides as each side should get an equal amount of light. Cane berries fruit only on the second year wood, so once you have finished harvesting the crop, you cut the fruiting canes off at the ground, otherwise, you’ll create a thick, thorny, unmanageable, vegetative mess. The new growth at the base of the plants is then attached to the trellis for next year’s crop. Runners will eventually escape and appear in the space between the bed and the fence. The shoots are controlled by hand pulling them or spraying them with a nonselective herbicide.
There are now two dwarf varieties: Raspberry Shortcakes, and Baby Cakes Blackberry, that give you a third option and it’s the option I prefer. They have a compact, upright growth habit, growing three to four feet, so they don’t require staking or trellising. I’d plant them in a raised bed and grow them as a fruiting hedge. The fruit is borne on the second year growth, so you still have to prune off the stems after harvesting. Raspberry Shortcakes and Baby Cakes Blackberry are ideal for individual containers. Joining strawberries and blueberries, they expand the homegrown fruit available to be grown on a deck, patio, or balcony. Fresh raspberries and blackberries are a now reality for all types of gardeners.
Q. We have a ten-year-old Photinia hedge that is approximately six-feet tall. Previously, some of the plants died. The leaves began to wilt, then they turned brown and finally, the whole plant died. They were replaced, and we thought the problem was corrected, but now it’s beginning again. What do we need to do to correct whatever is going on before we lose the whole hedge?
A. Photinias that wilt, turn brown and then die are suffering from root rot. Another tattle tail sign is that before the foliage wilts the leaf color fades. Instead of being a bright glossy green, it’s a dull, muted, greenish-yellow color. Excessive summer watering, especially following a wet winter, poor drainage, and plants that are planted too deep in the ground are the primary reasons for root rot. Similar problems occur with other ornamental shrubs like junipers, azaleas, ceanothus, and grevilleas, along with fruit trees such as cherries, apricots, peaches and others. Because of the age of the hedge, I’d suspect that excessive moisture is the reason for the decline. Established Photinia does not require constant moisture from frequent waterings. They’re waterwise, so once every ten days to two weeks depending on the temperatures, April through October is sufficient. To accomplish this, you may have to cap off the sprinklers around them and then hand water when necessary. By changing the watering pattern now, it may be many months before you see a noticeable change and then again you may not. You need to key on those plants that look healthy. With root rot, what’s going on under the ground is not always apparent above the ground until later.
Q. What can apply to eliminate clover in my lawn?
A. Ortho Weed-B-Gone and Bonide Weed Beater Ultra are two of several selective herbicides available that will remove clover and other broadleaf weeds without harming the grass. You could also apply a ‘Weed and Feed’ type turf product as it should control the clover along with many other broadleaf weeds. So, eliminating clover shouldn’t be that difficult. Another option is to leave the clover. A mix turf of grass and clover is not that undesirable. Clover doesn’t require much care, and it’s water-wise.
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