They’re here, and they’re fabulous. I’m referring to vine-ripened tomatoes, of course. No tough skin. No mealy interior. And a flavor that compares to nothing else on earth.
Depending upon which tomato variety you select, they can be as sugary-sweet or as pleasantly acidic as you prefer. Even the brilliant green stems smell as though they were just plucked from the garden…which isn’t far from fact, when you shop at the farmers’ market.
It’s difficult for me to imagine anything more brilliant than a huge platter of sliced vine-ripened tomatoes of varying shapes, sizes, and colors. This salad/side dish is pretty much perfect as is, though a drizzle of California olive oil and a few scattered basil leaves only make a good thing better. Consider it research: You’ll never know your favorite kind of tomato until you try them all.
Though the process is a bit like picking your favorite child, I am firmly ensconced in the Early Girl camp. Every Saturday I still greedily lug home bags filled with all types of tomatoes, but Early Girls remain my private passion.
In honor of their pitifully short season, I will now share my tried-and-true summertime recipe that is equally good at any time of the day or night:
1. Slather good-quality mayo liberally over a crusty slice of artisan bread.
2. Cover with thick slices of Early Girl tomatoes.
3. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
4. Eat.
5. Repeat as necessary.
If I’m feeling fancy I may add a few arugula leaves to the mix. But that’s it. No other improvisation is tolerable.
But some occasions call for a little more effort. Like when I’m having company. Maybe I’m overly sensitive, but it seems some of my guests expect a little more out of a dinner invitation than an open-face Early Girl sandwich eaten over my kitchen sink, with the tomato juice dripping down their arms. Go figure.
When pressed to perform, I remember that summer means more than tomatoes. A lot more. The farmers’ market is now laden with plump, shiny eggplant; tender young zucchini; crisp sweet bell peppers; and this year’s new crop of garlic. When it’s summer, it’s time to make ratatouille. A refreshing change from the crisp, barely-cooked veggies Californians enjoy most of the year.
Classic French ratatouille is not something most of us are willing to tackle on a busy weeknight. Although this version requires some chopping, keep in mind that it’s a stew–so those dozens of vegetable cubes need not be perfect. (Just aim for similar size so they will cook evenly.) The vegetables are first sautéed, then bubble away together until soft and their natural juices blend with a prodigious amount of full-flavored olive oil. What’s not to like?
Ratatouille can be served warm or cold—making it a host-friendly choice for entertaining. (I nearly always serve it at cool room temperature.) The flavor improves over time, so it’s actually beneficial to get make it a day or two in advance.
If you’re lucky enough to have leftovers, try serving ratatouille with eggs in the morning.Or topped with crumbled fresh California goat cheese at lunchtime.Maybe over pasta for dinner.Or alongside an Early Girl sandwich.
California Ratatouille
1 medium eggplant (about 1 1/4 pounds), peel left on, cut into 3/4-inch dice
Coarse (kosher) salt
California olive oil
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed through a press
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes, to taste
2 sweet bell peppers, preferably 1 red and 1 yellow, cut into 3/4-inch squares
3 medium zucchini, cut into 3/4-inch dice
About 1 1/4 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes (any variety), cut into 3/4-inch dice
3 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon balsamic or red wine vinegar, or more to taste
1. Place the eggplant cubes in a large colander. Sprinkle with about 2 teaspoons of salt and toss to coat. Place the colander in the sink and let stand for at least 20 minutes to drain. Use your hands to squeeze the eggplant dry. (It’s okay if some salt still clings to the eggplant.)
2. In an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven or other large, heavy-bottomed pot, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat until hot. Working in batches if needed, add the eggplant and cook, stirring often to prevent sticking, until nicely browned all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large plate and set aside.
3. Add another 2 tablespoons of oil to the pot over medium heat. Stir in the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon of salt, the garlic, and hot pepper flakes and cook just until the garlic is fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stir in the peppers and cook until just softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes; then stir in the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Add the reserved eggplant along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes longer.
4. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil and the 1 teaspoon vinegar. Taste, adding more salt or vinegar if needed. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Just before serving, drizzle another 1 or 2 teaspoons of oil over the top. Serves 6 to 8.
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at s1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!
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