I always relish the gentle change of seasons, but the transition from summer to autumn may be my favorite time of all. Nowhere is this evolution more apparent than at the farmers’ market, where the vibrant shades of summer produce are gradually replaced by soft golden hues that mimic the colors of autumn leaves. We now have the opportunity to savor the very last of vine-ripened tomatoes while simultaneously celebrating the arrival of fall’s harvest. The best of both worlds.
Crisp mornings, shorter days, and cozy evenings at home rekindle my nesting instinct. No trip to the farmers’ market is complete without a wreath for the front door; an armload of unripe persimmons destined for display in a favorite blue and white china bowl; or a family of big bumpy pumpkins and other winter squash to decorate the front porch. Nor can I resist pomegranates, or the allure of voluptuous pears and crisp, fragrant apples.
If you’ve ever bought a supermarket apple in the summertime, it was probably a mealy, flavorless specimen that had been waxed to a high shine for visual appeal; trucked in from another state (or hemisphere); and then held for months in cold storage. It takes only one lackluster bite to realize you’ve made a big mistake. One must wait for autumn to buy apples at their sweet, tree-ripened best. Just follow your nose at the farmers’ market to revel in this fruit’s perfection. And then you’ll understand why poor Adam didn’t have a chance.
When baking with apples, you want one that’s pleasantly tart and won’t fall apart during cooking. In other parts of the country my choice might be limited to the ubiquitous Granny Smith, and there would be nothing wrong with that. When grown and stored properly, they fit the bill. But since we live in the heart of several renowned apple-growing regions, it’s easy to add complexity of flavor and texture by mixing things up a bit. Along with—or instead of–that old reliable Granny, I like to add any other variety tucked away in my refrigerator: Golden Delicious, Gala, McIntosh, Jonathan, and Pink Lady are all proven winners. My current fave is the rosy-fleshed Pink Pearl.
Growers at the farmers’ market welcome your questions, and may lead you to a suitable apple you have never even heard of. Whichever the variety, I’ve found that an interlude in the oven can be a very noble demise for any aging apples losing their “snap,” and therefore less appealing to eat out of hand.
As we settle in to cool-weather routines, try this recipe for a seemingly plain-Jane apple cake that’s humble appearance belies its moist apple goodness. No fancy ingredients; not too sweet; just simple home cooking .Sweet, heady aromas wafting through the kitchen will make you forget those days at the beach. Consider it a cheap form of aromatherapy.
Autumn Apple Cake
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 large apples suitable for baking, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
Cinnamon-Sugar Topping (recipe follows)
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch springform cake pan or an 8-inch round cake pan. (If using the latter, cover the bottom with a round of parchment paper and grease again.)
2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Whisk gently to blend.
3. In a large bowl, beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition until incorporated, and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Beat in the vanilla.
4. Gradually add the flour mixture, mixing just until combined. Fold in the apples.
5. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan, spreading to the edges. Sprinkle Cinnamon-Sugar over the top. Bake until the edges begin to pull away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Run a dull knife around the edge of the cake to loosen, and carefully release the springform.(If using a standard cake pan, unmold onto the wire rack, peel off the parchment, and invert onto a serving plate.) Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Serves 6.
Cinnamon-Sugar Topping
1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
In a small bowl, mix together the sugar and cinnamon until well blended.
Cook’s Tips
A simple cake like this welcomes improvisation. If the spirit moves you, consider adding toasted chopped walnuts or almonds; or maybe golden raisins, chopped dried apple, or candied ginger. You could also add another layer of flavor by incorporating a bit of finely grated lemon or orange zest; or reduce the vanilla extract to 1 teaspoon and add a tablespoon or two of Calvados, bourbon, or dark rum. Instead of cinnamon, consider something more exotic, like ground cardamom.
Serve this cake as is, or get fancy by topping each serving with a drizzle of custard sauce, a spoonful of yogurt, lightly whipped cream, or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!
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