It’s common knowledge that corn and tomatoes are the two summer vegetables that simply can’t be faked. Unless you hit a farm stand or grow your own, the only way to ensure the quality we’ve come to expect is to shop at the farmers’ market.
While there, load up on crunchy, bursting-with-flavor cucumbers; a spectrum of sweet and spicy peppers; mountains of tiny summer squash; and tender young green beans. The disappointment that may come with the waning profusion of locally-grown blueberries and blackberries is tempered only by the arrival of early apples and table grapes. And for desserts and warm-weather snacking, there’s still time to get our fill of juicy watermelon and glistening red strawberries.
All of this terrific produce heralds prime-time for homemade salsa. This one, dotted with oven-roasted sweet corn for depth of flavor, is a welcome diversion from the classic tomato-centric variety.
The recipe is quite forgiving; so vary the ingredients to suit your mood. A whiff of finely minced garlic; chopped fresh cilantro and/or creamy cubes of diced avocado would be right at home here.
It’s no surprise that Roasted Corn Salsa makes a terrific appetizer with tortilla chips; but also try it alongside grilled meat or fish, quesadillas, or scrambled eggs.
Roasted Corn Salsa with Poblano & Lime
Poblano chiles are usually rather mild, but some mavericks can be surprisingly hot. To err on the safe side, taste the roasted peppers before adding the full amount to the salsa.
2 fresh poblano chile peppers
Kernels from 4 ears of farm-fresh corn (about 2 cups)
1 tablespoon California olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 vine-ripened tomato, seeded and chopped
1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced or chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
- Place the peppers on a broiler pan or small baking sheet and broil as close to the heat as possible, turning with tongs, until charred all over, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame, turning, until charred, about 5 minutes.) Seal the peppers in a paper bag and let steam for at least 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle. Peel and/or rub off as much of the blackened skin as possible. (It’s okay if small bits of it remain.) Cut the peppers open and discard the stems and seeds. Finely dice the poblanos.
- Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the corn kernels with the oil to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread out the corn into an even layer and bake, stirring once or twice, until some of the kernels are lightly browned at the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Scrape into a medium bowl and let cool slightly.
- Add the diced poblanos, tomato, onion, lime juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss gently to mix.
- Transfer to a bowl and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.
Recipe adapted from Great Party Dips by Peggy Fallon (John Wiley & Sons 2009)
A Bit of Corny Advice
There are dozens of varieties of corn, each of which differs according to sweetness and tenderness. To find which is best for you, ask the grower who is selling it. He or she has invested a lot of love into this crop, and will happily share their passion.
The minute corn is picked, its natural sugars begin to convert to starch. For the best possible flavor, serve corn the same day you purchase it. At most, refrigerate unhusked ears in a plastic bag for up to 3 days.
Mind your market manners! Peeling back the layers of husk to expose the kernels dries out the corn for other shoppers.
For the best flavor, avoid buying pre-shucked corn as it is nearly impossible to determine how long ago it was picked. Instead, look for tightly closed, plump green husks with fresh-looking cuts at their stems. The golden-brownish silk at the very top of the ear should appear glossy and feel slightly sticky.
Don’t shuck corn until you’re ready to use it. To remove the husks, peel down with a firm tug–and listen for that squeak of freshness. Pull off as many of the fine silks as you can, then wipe off the remaining threads of silk with a damp towel.
If boiling is your preferred method of cooking, freshly shucked ears require only 1 to 3 minutes.
Grilled corn on the cob is a little bit smoky and totally irresistible. And yet another delicious vehicle for consuming melted butter. It’s also warm, sweet, and slightly crunchy—with a preferred manner of eating that defies every rule of etiquette. To cook, place farm-fresh ears in their husks over a medium-high hot grill. (There’s no need to pre-soak in water.) Grill, turning occasionally, until evenly charred, 15 to 20 minutes. When cool enough to handle, the husks and silk will come off easily.
Removing kernels from long ears of corn can be problematic, if not outright dangerous. The tapered ears are wobbly and impossible to keep in place, and the kernel trajectory as you cut can be downright frustrating. A little bit of prep work will make the job a snap: Place a small cutting board in the middle of a rimmed baking sheet. Cut each shucked ear of corn in half crosswise. Working one at a time, carefully hold the top of the cob with your fingers and firmly place the cut (flat) end of the ear on the cutting board. To remove the kernels, use a large, sharp knife to cut downward with a gentle sawing motion. The ears remain more stable this way, and the baking sheet will catch any flying kernels. Scrape the bare cobs with the dull side of a knife to release flavorful milky juices to add whatever corny dish you’re preparing, and freeze those naked cobs to flavor soup stock.
If you find yourself with an extra ear or two in the refrigerator, consider removing the kernels and tossing them into a green salad. Other fitting destinations include pancakes or waffles, muffins or cornbread, polenta, pasta, omelets, or any sort of veggie stir-fry.
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!