Cloudy with a Chance of Kale

The holiday decorations are put away (well, at least most of ‘em) and the house is looking rather Spartan. No more parties. No more cookies for breakfast. No more cocktails-every-single-night-of-the-week. Even our beloved farmers’ market is pared down to the basics now. It’s January, and the weather is often as gray as our moods.

Few things warm the spirit like a pot of soup bubbling away on top of the stove. Instant aromatherapy. And when it’s homemade and healthy, all the better. This month has me dreaming of kale, a hearty green that is also an excellent source of vitamins A, C, and K, to ward off winter colds. It also happens to be delicious.

No doubt you’ve seen big bunches of ruffly-leafed common green kale year ‘round at the market; and it is a perfectly respectable vegetable for soups, stews, or for braising all by its lonesome. Come fall and winter, however, check out some of the less common varieties like the dark green, crinkly-leafed Tuscan kale–also known as dinosaur kale, lacinato kale, or cavolo nero (black kale).

Serve this comforting soup with crusty artisan bread from the farmers’ market. And maybe a glass of wine, as an homage to holidays past.

Stirring the Pot
–The following recipe comes together quickly for a weeknight dinner; but like any soup, it actually tastes better when reheated…so proceed accordingly.
–I’ve used canned cannellini beans for convenience here; but when you have freshly cooked beans of any variety on hand, by all means use them. And if beans are not on the menu, add some diced red- or white-skinned potatoes instead, and just cook them in the soup until tender.
–Kale stems are often discarded in recipes; but since they are edible (and simply require longer cooking than the leaves) I chop them finely and add them to the soup early on.
–Confirmed carnivores may want to stir in some cooked and crumbled Italian sausage. Soups are very forgiving, so add or delete ingredients, as you like. In fact, it’s probably a good day to multi-task by cleaning out your refrigerator!
— This recipe includes the rind from a chunk of Parmesan cheese as an optional ingredient. Whenever you buy a chunk of Parmesan, get in the habit of saving the hard rind; just store them in the freezer until needed. When you making soups, stews, or sauces—especially ones with an Italian bent—toss the rind (still frozen is okay) into the pot for added flavor.

Tuscan Kale Soup with Cannellini Beans

• 2 cans (15 ounces each) cannellini (white kidney) beans
• 1 bunch farm-fresh kale (any variety), tough ends trimmed
• 2 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1 celery rib, chopped
• 1/8 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 cup water (or additional stock)
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary or other herb of choice
• The rind from a small chunk of Parmesan cheese (optional)
• 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Empty the beans into a colander, and rinse well with cold water. Let drain.
2. Remove the center ribs from the kale. Coarsely chop the leaves and set aside. Finely chop the ribs.
3. Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the finely chopped kale ribs, the onion, carrot, celery, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the drained beans, the chopped kale leaves, the stock, water, rosemary sprig, and the cheese rind, if using. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove and discard the rosemary sprig (it’s okay if most of the leaves have fallen off) and the Parmesan cheese rind. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. For added flourish, drizzle a bit of olive oil over the top of each. Pass freshly grated Parmesan at the table. Serves 4.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.