Q. Dandelions have invaded my lawn and are taking it over. I’ve tried pulling them up by the roots, but they only come back. The spray-on Dandelion Killer just wilted them a little bit. What do I do next?
A. You can successfully rid a grass lawn of Dandelions with a little patience. There are both organic and non-organic control methods. So, let us start with the organic methods. Mowing the turf weekly to prevent the puffy seed heads from forming or dousing the plants with boiling water are two suggested. However, manually digging them out is by far the most widely-used method. You do not solve the problem by yanking them up or cutting off the top growth. To be successful, you must remove the long taproot entirely; otherwise, they do return. Many garden centers have a “Weeder” that is ideal for removing Dandelions. The tool looks like a long screwdriver with a ‘V’ shape end that resembles a whale’s tale. Depending on how extensive the problem is, hand weeding can be a tedious task. Applying a selective herbicide for broadleaf weeds is an effective non-organic answer. With grass, Weed and Feed turf products and liquid herbicides are the primary solutions, but please read the instructions. All too often, applicator error is primarily the reason for poor results. The granular products are best applied with a drop-type spreader and not a hand-held one. Also, it’s critical when and when not to water. Usually, you moistened the grass first, and then you withhold water for a day or two but read the label for the specific product instructions. There are many brands of liquid herbicides available that kill Dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. You’ll find premixed solutions or concentrates that must be mixed up before applying. Bayer Season Long Weed Control for Lawns is one of the newest herbicides for turf. It’s unique in that it kills the existing Dandelions and then it prevents the dormant seed from germinating for six months. This is assuming you’re not going to be reseeding the lawn anytime soon. The nursery professional at your favorite garden center is an excellent resource to review your options and make a recommendation. With herbicides, you always want to make sure you got the right product to avoid a costly mistake.
Q. My peach tree had Peach Leaf Curl. I’ve picked off all the curled leaves, and the new leaves seem to be okay. I’ve read about treating them with a copper-based fungicide. Is this effective, will I have to do it every year or is there a better solution? Also, is it true that the peaches infected from Peach Leaf Curl, can’t be eaten?
A. Peach Leaf Curl is a fungal disease that attacks only peach and nectarines trees. Curly leaves on apples, plums and or cherry trees, is a different problem. The Peach Leaf Curl fungus causes the meristematic cells of a leaf to pucker, curl and to be light green and yellow to shades of red and purple in color. The powdery white appearance is the result of the spores breaking through the leaf surface. Eventually, the leaves turn brown and fall off with the remaining spores over-wintering on the tree. A liquid copper fungicide is the recommended solution. It is applied annually in November after fifty percent of the leaves have fallen off with a follow-up application in February when the buds begin to swell and show color. This is called the pink bud or popcorn stage. During the blooming cycle, Peach Leaf Curl is problematical with rainy conditions, as the spores wash into the opening buds infecting the emerging leaves. Ideally, you like it to be dry. With an extended rainy season into May, it isn’t uncommon for multiple sets of leaves to be infected. Peach Leaf Curl affects only the leaves and not the maturing fruit. So, the peaches are perfectly okay to be eaten. The fruit may develop brown blotches from the lack of leaves during an early season heat spell. Typically, the leaves protect the maturing fruit from sunburn. Peach Leaf Curl is one of those frustrating problem a backyard orchard faces. With all the proper applications, Mother Nature can still cause problems, so don’t throw in the towel. The flavor of homegrown peaches and nectarines are far better than what’s available at your favorite supermarket.
Q. Can I apply a systemic insecticide plus fertilizer to my roses along with Epsom Salt?
A. There are no issues in simultaneously applying a systemic insecticide plus fertilizer and Epson Salt. The fertilizer provides the basic elements necessary for plant growth, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium while Epson Salts supplies magnesium. With roses, Epson Salt is applied twice a year, spring and fall to encourage the basal growth along with enriching the foliage color. It is spread evenly over the dip line. It’s a supplement to your normal fertilizer, not a substitute. Before applying any nutrients is sure, the plants are watered the day before and immediately afterward once the rainy season concludes.
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