Fifty Shades of Green

March is a transitional month at the farmers’ market, when spring crops slowly find their way into our weekly shopping expeditions. Few can resist the lure of early strawberries—and, to my way of thinking, no one should. But we’re also presented with a glorious proliferation of green…right in time for St. Patrick’s Day… artichokes; avocados; fava beans; tiny spring lettuces; spinach; and tender young peas of all persuasions—from common peas-in-the-pod to crunchy sugar-snaps. These are a far cry from the scary green vegetables that may have traumatized your childhood.

As a kid, I never would have guessed I could muster up honest enthusiasm over asparagus. (But then, I didn’t realize it actually had a “season.” It came from the freezer.) Unlike the stuff you see floor-stacked year ‘round at the warehouse store, spring asparagus has an incomparably delicate, sweet taste. Fortunately much of our nation’s supply is grown locally and now readily available to us, so freshness is a given. What we find at the farmers’ market is not only top-quality; it has been harvested within the past 24 hours. And not shipped half-way around the country. Or world.

There are zillions of elaborate recipes designed to highlight this elegant vegetable; but on a busy weeknight, time is of the essence. And we all know that few dinners can be thrown together faster than a sandwich. (C’mon. Admit it. You’ve gone there.) But give that sandwich a fancy French name and serve it open-faced with a salad of mixed greens and a glass of crisp rosé, and you’ve suddenly got a perfectly respectable lunch for guests. (And they’ll know these weren’t ordered-in from the local deli.) For brunch, you could top off each tartine with a poached egg. Oh mama.

I look upon this recipe as a serendipitous opportunity to use up all those little bits of cheese that accumulate in the refrigerator. Any cheese will work; but I find a combination of Gruyere, Mozzarella, and Parmesan sufficiently gooey and plenty delicious.

Cheesy Asparagus Tartines

• 1 1/2 tablespoons California olive oil
• 16 thin asparagus spears, tough ends removed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 of a small red onion, thinly sliced
• 4 long slices (about 3/4-inch thick)from a round loaf of crusty artisan bread
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup olive tapenade or basil pesto (store-bought is fine)
• 2 cups (or more) shredded or grated cheese
• 4 very thin slices prosciutto or ham (optional)
• Aged balsamic vinegar, truffle oil, or finely chopped parsley

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, add the asparagus and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, turning, until the asparagus turns bright green, about 1 minute. Remove the asparagus from the skillet and set aside.
2. Add the remaining 1/2tablespoon of oil to the skillet and warm over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Position the oven rack 3- to 4-inches from the top and preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a foil-lined baking sheet and cook, turning once, until very lightly toasted, about 2 minutes total. Do not turn off the broiler.
4. Leaving the bread on the baking sheet, spread each slice with 1 tablespoon each of mayonnaise and tapenade and top with a slice of prosciutto. Divide the onion evenly among the slices, and top each with about 1/4 cup of the cheese. Arrange 4 asparagus spears on top and sprinkle evenly with the remaining cheese. Broil about 2 minutes, watching carefully, until the cheese is melted through and bubbly-hot. Drizzle with a tiny bit of balsamic vinegar or truffle oil, or sprinkle with parsley. Serve at once. Pass the peppermill at the table. Serves 4.

ASPARAGUS TIPS

• When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvesting, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.
• If your taste leans toward the exotic, remember that white asparagus is comparatively bland; and that purple asparagus turns green when cooked.
• White asparagus is the very same vegetable; it’s just grown differently. The stalks are covered with soil during the growing period to block out the sun, so they never produce chlorophyll—and never turn green.
• To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.
• Thick or thin? Like people, it’s often the luck of the draw. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants tend to produce thicker spears. It’s as simple as that.
• To store, wrap unwashed asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in an open plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inchof water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
• To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim off the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

STALKING IDEAS FOR ASPARAGUS

•  Steam or stir-fry it if you prefer, but roasting asparagus highlights its inherent grassy-nutty flavor. To roast asparagus: On a rimmed baking sheet, toss asparagus with just enough olive oil to coat lightly. Spread the spears in an even layer and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 425 degree oven, shaking the pan once or twice, until lightly browned at the edges and the stems are crisp-tender, 7 to 12 minutes, depending on the thickness.
• Serve roasted asparagus as is, or topped with a shower of grated cheese or toasted sliced almonds. Or, for a change, brown panko breadcrumbs in butter with a bit of finely chopped fresh mint and lemon zest; then scatter over the top.
• If you’ve already fired up the outdoor grill, toss the uncooked spears lightly with olive oil and arrange them diagonally on the grill (so they don’t fall through) and cook, turning with tongs, for 4 to 8 minutes, until crisp-tender. You’ll get that same delicious caramelization that comes from oven-roasting. Indoor grills work perfectly well, too—though it may take a bit longer to cook.
• For a slightly addictive appetizer, dip fresh asparagus spears in a tempura or light beer batter. Deep-fry and serve warm, with either a squeeze of lemon or a favorite dipping sauce.
• Roast asparagus spears until just barely tender. When cool enough to handle, wrap with paper-thin slices of prosciutto or other ham, roast beef, or turkey. Serve at room temperature, drizzled with a bit of balsamic vinegar, if you like.
• Why not a raw asparagus salad? Trim off and discard the ends from the fattest spears you can find; then shave them lengthwise on a mandolin or other mechanical slicer. Season the thin slices with salt and pepper, then toss with fruity California olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmesan cheese over the top.
• When you find thin asparagus, try Chef Anne Burrell’s take on the raw asparagus salad: Cut the trimmed spears crosswise into thin rounds; then toss with diced red onion and plenty of finely grated Pecorino cheese. Drizzle with red wine vinegar and fruity olive oil, and season with kosher salt.
• Make an Asian-inspired salad by topping roasted and cooled asparagus with a squeeze of fresh orange juice and a drizzle each of sesame oil and soy sauce. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and garnish with peeled orange slices or segments.
• Tuck roasted asparagus spears into omelets, quiche, or frittatas dotted with crumbled California goat cheese; or in simple pasta dishes or risotto.
• Glam up brunch by serving a poached egg over roasted asparagus spears, with or without a slice of smoked salmon or Fontina cheese…or a generous drizzle of Hollandaise. Serve slices of toasted crusty artisan bread on the side

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

The best way to prepare for the onslaught of spring entertaining is to add a few new recipes to your repertoire. Check out Peggy Fallon’s upcoming class at Draeger’s Blackhawk cooking school on Tuesday, April 30, at 6:30 p.m. For more information go to www.draegerscookingschool.com, or call 1-800-642-9463 ext. 261.