As of this writing the town of Danville has temporarily closed its farmers’ market. In a time when so many gathering spots have opted to shut down until further notice, this didn’t come as a huge surprise. In the whole scheme of life, I look upon this as a fleeting inconvenience that will curb the spread of COVID-19.
Amidst the mixed media messaging that assaults us daily, there is still cause for optimism. Spring signals renewal and regardless of what else goes on in the world, the sun will shine and birds will sing and trees will blossom and flowers will bloom. (Mother Nature is good that way.) Take a minute to enjoy it.
Self-quarantine can teach us a lot about ourselves; especially how we choose to spend our time. Some of us are alone; others are sheltered with immediate family members. (I’ll let you decide which is preferable!) From what I’m hearing, lots of closets are being purged; drawers reorganized; and many long-neglected projects are getting a second look. Home gardens are getting extra attention during the daylight hours; while televisions and computers get a workout in the evening. And many kitchens are seeing a lot more action than they have in a long time.
As trips to the grocery store have become less frequent, I took on the challenge of “making do” by using up ingredients in my pantry and refrigerator. This exercise in creativity is a game I have come to enjoy. For inspiration, I often turn to the cuisines of less prosperous cultures that have not enjoyed the seemingly endless bounty of the U.S.
Once I barreled through the meager supply of proteins I generally have in the freezer, meat and fish were off the table. Literally. Well, except for a few cans of tuna and salmon I unearthed from the back of a shelf.
Odds and ends from the produce drawer were either cooked along with eggs or transformed into soup. Pasta, polenta, beans, rice, and lentils were easy choices. Suddenly I was immersed in cucina povera—the no-waste “poor cooking” tradition from rural Italy. But eating peasant food didn’t mean I stopped dining with china plates, cloth napkins, candles, and—okay— often a glass or two of wine. Life is still good. Just different.
Don’t get me wrong. I am still craving a huge farmers’ market salad, a crusty loaf of artisan bread, and a produce drawer stuffed with spring veggies ripe for the taking. Organic strawberries remain the stuff dreams are made of. But all will come in good time. And life will be all the sweeter when it does.
Risotto has become a favorite around here, as it is quickly made from ingredients I generally keep around. This time of year I would normally make risotto using local asparagus, but that can wait. This is the season of the pantry challenge.
Full disclosure: I have been told by non-foodie-friends that my selection of pantry staples differs wildly from theirs. If that is correct, I’m guilty as charged. (Hence the name I’ve given this recipe.)
But I suspect that in addition to basic groceries, many of you may also have a lot of long-forgotten supplies in your cupboards: shelf-stable ingredients purchased on a whim, or open packages of leftover whatevers once needed for a specific recipe.
Look upon this as a good opportunity to use up what you already have; and become mindful of how to shop in the future. In America alone, 20 billion pounds of food is wasted each year. Let’s work to change that statistic.
When the farmers’ market is up and running again, and we’re happily gamboling through truckloads of just-picked produce, remember to also stock up on all the high-quality dried fruits, nuts, and assorted bottled and packaged ingredients sold there. Then you and your pantry will be ready for anything.
Swanky Pantry Risotto
1 package (about 1/2 ounce) dried wild mushrooms
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon California olive oil
1 large garlic clove, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 cup Arborio rice*
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth
12 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
- Place the dried mushrooms in a heatproof bowl. Add boiling water to cover, pressing down with a spoon to submerge the mushrooms, and let stand until the mushrooms have softened, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and chop coarsely**.
- In a 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter in the olive oil over medium heat. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
- Add the reserved mushrooms and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until translucent and coated with the butter, about 2 minutes.
- Pour in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the wine is absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in 1 cup of the hot broth and cook, stirring often, until absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring often, until the broth is absorbed and the rice is creamy and tender but still slightly firm in the center, about 15 minutes total.
- Stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Stir in the Parmesan. Taste, adding salt and freshly ground pepper as needed. Serve at once in warmed shallow bowls or plates. Pass extra Parmesan at the table. Serves 4.
* I prefer to use Italian Arborio or Carnaroli rice, which gives this dish character and its requisite creamy texture. (And yes, I really do keep this in my pantry!) In a pinch, however, any short-grain rice you have on hand will do.
**For maximum mushroom flavor, drain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve to remove any grit; then add it to the hot broth.
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