Q. I have a young nectarine and cherry tree planted about ten feet apart. I realize I’ve planted them in the wrong spot. And to make matters worse, they ’re getting too much water as I’ve planted flowers under them. When can they be moved?
A. I’m glad you recognized the problem with the watering before it was too late to correct things. Cherries and nectarines along with apricots, peaches, and plums do not like regular summer water, hence, they don’t tolerate having herbaceous and ornamental plants planted under their canopy. Apples, pears, Asian pears and all types of citrus are your best choice as they thrive with lots of summer water. Young fruit trees can be transplanted starting in late November, after leaf drop, through February or mid-March; however, with citrus, you should wait until early spring when the danger of frost has passed. Cherries and nectarines have a branching root system, so the root ball needs to be rectangular in shape, not necessarily a square box. I’d prune the trees first to reduce the canopy to makes the move easier. The planting holes should be twice as large and eight-inch deeper than the root ball, and they can be dug ahead of time. The backfill is amended at a fifty-fifty ratio of soil conditioner or homemade compost and the native soil. The next and most critical step in transplanting is not to bury the root ball. I’d remove any excess soil to expose the first root and plant it, so this root is at or above the soil surface. If you are concerned about the exposed root, you can apply a layer of mulch next year to insulate it. Also, remember, the root ball will sink in the amended soil. In April or May, I’d apply an organic fruit tree fertilizer to encourage the new growth. Starting in June unless the rainy season concludes early, water the trees once every two to three weeks through mid-September, depending on the temperature. Each tree should have a six-inch high watering basin that extends from the trunk to the drip line. This basin should be filled to the brim several times every time you water. Since these trees are not showing any stress, the transition to a new location should have a high degree of success.
Q. Last year I planted several Gardenias in containers. They were beautiful at first planted but now all the leaves have fallen off and the flower buds form, turn black and drop off. They’re watered weekly and fed frequently. Am I over-watering them?
A. Gardenias can be frustrating to grow, especially when the flower buds never open and drop off. Your plants have two unrelated problems. First, you have a watering problem, but it’s not over-watering. Instead, the plants are going dry and suffering from water stress. Water stress causes the leaves to turn brown and drop off. You might also find that the stems become dry and brittle. Gardenias are watered weekly when planted in the ground, but this is not the case in pots. Container plants are watered at least three times a week, April through October, depending on how much afternoon sun they get and the temperature. Also, with established plants, the longer they stay in the same container, the more critical the watering frequency becomes, as the soil is depleted by the mass of roots. It’s tough to over water Gardenias, or any other plant, as the excess water flows out the bottom of the container. During periods of warm temperatures and windy conditions, the plants go dry, the leaves burn and drop off. This is corrected by watering more often, however, don’t expect to see a big difference until next spring. When the rainy season begins you water less often.
Now on to the second issue. Gardenias are a tropical plant that requires warm nights to flower. The buds turn black and drop off when the nighttime temperatures are not consistently over fifty-five degrees. Although listed as a shade plant, I find they grow better in a sunny location. They also benefit from the reflected heat. They need to be shaded during the heat of the day when planted inland. Typically, the right conditions for flowering usually occur during the fall months with our Indian Summer weather pattern.
Q. Our front yard is dominated by two large, twenty-five-year-old flowering plum trees. However, the trees have sent roots throughout the yard. Would a weed prevention fabric cover the ground prevent the emergence of the suckers?
A. You’re really caught between a rock and a hard spot. Landscape fabric may slow down the problem, but it’s not the ultimate solution. The suckers could push through any openings or just accumulate under the covering. You will need to add two to three inches of mulch to block the light from getting to the soil on top of the mulch. Black plastic is not recommended as it traps too much moisture which then harms the tree and plants. Unfortunately, I don’t have a good solution. Manually removing the suckers may be the best answer.
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