Get Your Green On!

This is the month of My People, when St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated by just about everyone. Cauldrons of corned beef and cabbage will be bubbling away in solidarity with the Irish, even though the origins of that dish are about as American as apple pie.

My parents were already adults when they emigrated to the United States, and so maintained many of their “old country” traditions throughout their 60+ years in California. They occasionally adopted the celebratory corned beef and cabbage dinner—probably due to peer pressure from well-meaning friends who couldn’t believe Irish people would eat anything else on March 17. But in their hearts they knew that nothing but lamb stew was good enough to honor St. Patrick Himself.

My version is a bit fancier than what I ate as a child, but I’ve tried to keep the basic spirit. (My father would be horrified by boneless meat in the stew and cream cheese in the mashed potatoes, though my mother probably would have appreciated the convenience.) So with apologies to my parents, here is my take on a darn good dinner for St. Patrick’s Day—or any other day, for that matter.

This stew is rich with Irish stout, dotted with root vegetables, and enlivened by fresh mint. I serve it over a mound of creamy mashed potatoes streaked with ribbons of kale—a make-ahead take on Irish colcannon. Then I top it all off with a sprinkling of Irish Gremolata.

What is Irish Gremolata, you ask? Oh, it’s just a little something I made up.Seriously.

You may recognize gremolata is the classic garnish for ossobucco. Although there areas many variations as there are Italian cooks, it is usually made from finely chopped garlic, lemon zest, and parsley. I have played off this idea, inspired by the flavors of spring…and the colors of the Irish flag!

One final word: Don’t confuse baby carrots with those dry, stubby things sold in plastic bags at the supermarket. There is nothing infantile about the latter; as they are actually overgrown carrots that have been mechanically whittled into those ubiquitous finger-shapes. Real baby carrots from the farmers’ market are just that—sweet and tender and cute as can be. And don’t worry about peeling them, as the outer “skin” is barely developed. Sláinte!
Guinness-Braised Lamb Stew with Baby Carrots and “Irish Gremolata”

2 1/4 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2-inch pieces
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons California olive oil
2 bunches farm-fresh baby carrots, tops trimmed to about 3/4-inch
2 turnips, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch wedges
2 yellow onions, halved and cut into slices 1/2-inch thick
2 tablespoons canned tomato paste
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 cups homemade chicken or beef stock, or canned reduced-sodium chicken or beef broth
1 (11.2 ounce) bottle Guinness Irish stout (best if opened early and allowed to go flat)
1 cup farm-fresh or frozen peas
2 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh mint leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, and pepper to taste. Whisk gently to blend. Add the lamb and toss to coat.

2. In a Dutch oven or other flameproof casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Working in 3 batches, add the lamb to the pot and cook, turning occasionally, until nicely browned on all sides. Remove to a plate.

3. Discard the cooking oil from the pot; then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, turnips, onions, and tomato paste. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, until the onions have softened, 5 to 7 minutes.

4. Add the reserved lamb along with any juices that have collected on the plate, the parsley, and the bay leaf. Stir in the stock and stout and cook uncovered over medium-high heat until the liquid begins to boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and cook in the oven for 2 hours, or until the lamb is very tender but still holds its shape. Stir in the peas and cook 5 minutes longer, or until just heated through. Taste, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Remove the bay leaf, stir in the mint, and serve warm, with a sprinkling of gremolata over each serving. Serves 4 to 6. (If made in advance, let cool and then cover and refrigerate. Before reheating, scrape off and discard any hardened fat that has risen to the top.)

For the “Irish Gremolata”

1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons finely grated fresh orange zest
2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Use at once, or cover and refrigerate. (To prevent discoloration, it’s best to make this no more than 2 hours in advance.) If you happen to have any leftover, add it to salad dressings, marinades, or roasted vegetables.
Make-Ahead Colcannon

3 1/2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes (8 to 10 medium)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 to 4 cups (lightly packed) thinly sliced or chopped kale or green cabbage
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream or half-and-half
1/4 cup crème fraiche or sour cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain in a colander.

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. Add the kale and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until wilted, about 5 minutes.

3. Using the paddle attachment on an electric mixer set on Medium speed, beat together the cream cheese, cream, and crème fraiche. When cool enough to handle, peel the hot potatoes. With the mixer running, gradually add the hot potatoes to the cream cheese mixture, beating until smooth and soft. Mix in the kale/butter mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Use some of the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to grease a 13- x 9-inch or other 2 1/2 quart baking dish. Scrape the potato mixture into the prepared dish. Melt the remaining butter and brush over the top to seal. Bake at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. (If you will be baking it within 2 hours, refrigeration is unnecessary. Cover and leave in a cool spot at room temperature.)

5. To bake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake until lightly browned on top and heated through, about 30 minutes…or longer if the casserole has been refrigerated. Serves 6 to 8. (Don’t be tempted to cut the recipe in half. You will want leftovers. Trust me.)

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!