Q. I need to trim a mature row of junipers along the side of the house. My neighbor cut his last year, and it looks like a “Brillo pad.” What is the proper way and time to prune junipers to avoid it from looking ugly?
A. Junipers, cedars, redwoods, cypress, and other conifers are pruned November through mid-April. Unlike other evergreen hedges, junipers are very slow to produce lateral growth off the bare, older branches. This presents problems when the junipers have been left to grow unattended over the years. They do not recover quickly from a heavy shearing; hence, you get a very unattractive “Brillo pad” look. Unfortunately, it will take several growing seasons for this look to disappear. Junipers have only one major flush of new growth per year, and that is in the spring. Now to avoid this, you’re going to have to prune the junipers back in steps. It’s done over the next several years, always leaving some of the vegetative growth. I’m faced with a similar dilemma at my mothers-in-law’s house. She has a hundred feet long and twenty-foot wide row of juniper that edges the property along the street. This was a very typical landscaping pattern when the area was initially planted in the seventies. Besides, this would be a moot point if I wish to replace the juniper and re-landscape the area, but I don’t. It’s going to be slow and tedious, but the alternative look is unacceptable. Another pruning note: wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt. The sharp needles from the junipers will puncture the skin. When the skin comes into contact with moisture, there will be a stinging/burning sensation that lasts for a few hours. Also, the puncture points will be red and sore for several days—a lesson I learned the hard way. There is a second reason for pruning now, as the open pruning wounds are a perfect entry point for insects. It takes a good week for the wounds to callus over or seal themselves. The activity of the harmful insects increases with the spring weather.
Q. Every year, we get aphids on our flowering plum tree. I’ve read that ants transport aphids, but I have never seen any ants in the area of these trees. What do I do to prevent the aphids? Also, the tree is struggling. Half the tree has finished flowering while the other half is still bare, and the branches are brittle. Can this tree be saved, and will any pruning help?
A. The aphid problem is easy to solve. Once the leaves start to emerge, be on the lookout for any leaves that are curling. Once you see the curly leaf, spray the Plum tree with insecticidal soap making two applications a week apart. I’d then pick off the curly leaves and dispose of them. This should protect the trees from any further attack for the year. Aphids are inevitable on a wide range of plants. Even without the present of ants, aphids are mobile. They are present year-round, but it’s during the spring with the flush of new growth that they are the most active. Your biggest concern should be the tree’s health. The section that has not leafed out and is brittle is probably dead so remove all it that growth. Next, step back and take a hard look at what is left to decide if it’s worth saving or if it needs to be replaced. It will take several years for it to recover. Pruning will never cure what is ailing a struggling tree. Pruning only enhances the shape and form of trees and shrubs. If you decide to keep the tree, I’d then remove those branches that hinder the over shape of what’s left. This has to be a judgement call on your part. Next fertilizer with an all-purpose fertilizer to encourage the new growth and set up a regular watering schedule. And finally, I’d record the progress with a digital camera or smartphone.
Q. We would like to raise the soil level about one foot around four very old and lovely-blooming Wisterias. Our first choice would be to bury each plant. Is this possible? Our second option is to dig the plants up and replant them. The last thought is to install plant wells around each plant. What would you suggest?
A. Of the three options, the least desirable is to bury the plants by raising the soil level. This is not advisable at all as it’s a sure proof way to kill them. The Wisterias could be transplanted to a new location, but given their age, it may not be feasible. I think the most practical solution is to build permanent plant wells around each plant. They should extend from the trunk to beyond the drip line. This is where the majority of the roots are located. You can use a variety of materials such as railroad ties, concrete blocks or moss rocks to hold back the soil.
Buzz Bertolero is an Advance California Certified Nursery Professional. The Dirt Gardener’s website is www.dirtgardener.com and questions can be sent by email to buzz@dirtgardemer.com or on Facebook at Facebook.com/Buzz.Bertolero
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