March Means Green…and Lots of It

March delivers just enough springtime to whet our appetites. Along with chilly evenings and the occasional rainy day, we are also treated to flashes of sunshine, emerald-colored hills, and colorful, sprightly flowers. At the farmers’ market tender spring vegetables like asparagus, artichokes, and peas come on strong, pushing aside winter’s broccoli and Brussels sprouts. I like to celebrate the change of season by giving these fresh young debutantes the starring role at dinner.

To my way of thinking there is no better vehicle for this than risotto—the original fast food, made slowly.Small portions make a memorable first course, but when accompanied by a crisp salad and crusty artisan bread, you’ve got yourself a perfectly satisfying meatless dinner. I love risotto’s romantic quality, especially the relaxed pace of preparation—leisurely stirringthe pot in a cozy kitchen, transforming a few simple ingredients into a four-star meal in a matter of minutes. No wonder this classic rice dish is so popular: it’s economical, filling, and utterly delicious.

Look around the farmers’ market and you’ll notice that vegetables that come into season at the same time generally taste good together. (Mother Nature is one clever gal.) So play around with the mix here to suit your fancy. Shelled, blanched and peeled fava beans; green onions; sautéed leeks; or tiny artichokes— trimmed, halved, and steamed until tender—make other winning additions. With or without them, however, this risotto contains enough green to make it a viable alternative to corned beef & cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day. (I’m Irish, so I can say that.)

When you set up your mise en place in advance, this dish comes together effortlessly…which I view as a good opportunity to sip wine as I cook.Go ahead and double the recipe if needed. The cooking time will remain about the same if you just use a larger pot—like a Dutch oven or a wide, heavy-bottomed sauté pan.

Risotto with Spring Vegetables

1. 1 pound farm-fresh asparagus
2. 1 tablespoon California olive oil
3. 1 garlic clove, minced
4. 1 cup shelled peas (from 1 pound unshelled peas)
5. Salt and freshly ground pepper
6. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
7. 1 small onion, finely chopped
8. 1 cup Arborio rice*
9. 2/3 cup dry white wine
10. 4 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth (preferably homemade)
11. 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
12. 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or mint (optional)

1. Trim off and discard the tough ends from the asparagus. Cut spears diagonally into 1-inch pieces, leaving the tips intact.
2. In a 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Stir in the garlic and cook until just fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the asparagus and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until bright green, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and cook, stirring, 1 minute longer. Remove vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside.
3. In the same pot, melt two-thirds of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until translucent and coated with the butter, about 2 minutes.
4. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the wine is absorbed and the alcohol evaporates, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in 1 cup of the hot broth and cook, stirring often, until absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring often, until the broth is absorbed and the rice mixture is very soft andcreamy and each grain is tender but still slightly firm in the center, about 15 minutes total.
5. Stir in the reserved vegetables and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat and stir inthe cheese and theremaining butteruntil melted and smooth. Taste, adding salt and freshly ground pepper as needed. Serve at once in warmed shallow bowls or plates, topping each serving with a sprinkling of chives. Pass extra Parmesan at the table. Serves 3 to 4.

* I prefer to use Italian Arborio or Carnaroli rice, which gives this dish its character and requisite creamy texture. In a pinch, however, any short-grain white rice will do.

Note: If you have any leftover risotto (something unheard of in my house) simply refrigerate it overnight. When firm, form it into small patties and sauté in olive oil to serve as a side-dish at any meal.

ASPARAGUS TIPS
When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvest, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.

• To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness.
• Thick or thin? Like people, it’s all a matter of personal preference. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants produce thicker spears.
• To store, wrap asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inch of water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
• To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

————————————————————————————————————
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.