Market Fresh

Some people associate June with weddings and graduations. I think of apricots. Not those dry little orbs at the supermarket, rock-hard and green at the stem. I dream of little velvet pillows, sweetly perfumed and dripping with juice. The kind of fruit many of us took for granted as kids.

There are plenty of reasons for the scarcity of that mythical fruit. First of all, real apricots need to ripen on the tree—which renders them soft and far too fragile for shipping. (In some parts of this country, fresh apricots are considered little more than an urban legend.) Many of the apricot orchards that once blessed California have been replaced by housing developments and office parks, thereby reducing the number of sources for tree-ripened fruit. Due to increased land values, apricot growers who held their ground and stayed in business now must often rely on sales to commercial canners and other fruit preservers in order to remain solvent. Along the way many of them also abandoned organic growing principles in order to meet production demands.

Scientists thought the answer was to develop new bruise-resistant apricot varieties designed to look quite glamorous on the outside for weeks at a time, and withstand all sorts of abuse during transit. Too good to be true? You bet. One bite, and you’ll know you’ve been had. It’s frightening to think there is an entire generation that believes this is how apricots should taste. If you want to experience a real California apricot that isn’t mealy or sour or flavorless—and there’s no tree in your own backyard—you simply have to buy them direct from the grower at the farmers’ market. And make it soon, for apricot season is short but sweet.

Should you tire of eating apricots out of hand (impossible as that may seem), their sweet-tart flavor is a natural in all sorts of desserts. One of the easiest is a crisp—similar to fruit pie, but without the angst. Serve this one with vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt, or a dollop of whipped cream. If you feel the need to jazz it up even further—or you’ve already eaten too many of the apricots you bought for the express purpose of making this crisp—toss in a handful of blueberries, raspberries, or halved and pitted cherries.

This is so good, some people have been known to eat it for breakfast on a warm summer morning. (I’m just sayin’….)

Fresh Apricot Crisp with Cinnamon-Walnut Topping
Apricots do not need to be peeled. Right before using, rinse them under cold water and pat dry. To halve and pit an apricot, use a small, sharp knife to cut along the visible seem that goes all around the fruit; then twist the halves gently in opposite directions, pull apart, and remove the pit.

Topping:
2/3 cup California walnut halves and pieces
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
a generous 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt

Filling:
5 cups pitted and halved tree-ripened apricots, preferably organic (about 2 pounds, or 15
apricots)
1/3 cup granulated sugar (or more, depending on the sweetness of the fruit)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Dash of salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and bake until lightly browned and fragrant, 7 to 9 minutes. Let cool, then chop coarsely.
2. Using an electric mixer or a wooden spoon, cream the butter and sugars together until well blended. Gradually mix in the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. Stir in the walnuts.
3. Loosely pack the mixture into a heavy-duty plastic food storage bag or bowl. Seal airtight and freeze until very firm, at least 4 hours or as long as 1 month.
4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking dish. In a large bowl, toss the apricots with the sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish, forming an even layer.
5. Use a knife to cut and crumble the frozen topping, and scatter it over the apricots. Bake until the topping is golden and the filling is bubbly-hot, about 40 minutes. Let cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve slightly warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Serves 6 to 8.

Mind Your Manners at the Market

• Please leave pets at home. Tempting as it might be, Health Department regulations prohibit them from being inside the market area.
• Do bring your own bag(s) to carry home your purchases. If you don’t plan to go straight home after shopping, pack an ice chest in the trunk of your car.
• Arrive early for the best selection—and also to avoid crowds.
• Before making any purchases, take one quick trip around the market. This way you’ll be able to compare prices and determine what looks best to you.
• Ask questions! Danville is a certified farmers’ market, which means that every vendor is somehow involved in the production of whatever they are selling. You’ve got an expert right in front of you, so storage and cooking tips are free for the asking.
• Save money by buying in bulk. For the best deals, prearrange with friends and neighbors to share flats or crates of farm-fresh produce.
• Bring plenty of cash, preferably in small denominations.
• Plan where you’re going to stash your cash securely, and stick to your plan. Don’t absentmindedly stuff change from a purchase into random pockets or bags, where there is a good chance of losing it. There’s nothing more unsettling than finding a wad of cash on the ground at the market. (Well, okay, for a minute or so it’s exciting…until your conscience kicks in.) If you do find some bills-without-a-body—or you’ve lost some cash of your own—notify your Market Manager, Max Timms. He is the Official Lost and Found Department.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.