Market Fresh: Embracing Autumn

Embracing Autumn

September at the Danville farmers’ market celebrates the best of both worlds. As early fall crops like apples and pears appear, we still have access to irresistible summer fruits like strawberries, figs, and melons. This is also an especially good time to load up on just-picked corn and vine-ripened tomatoes—sweeter than ever, with end-of-summer prices to please your pocketbook. It’s going to be a long, lonely winter without vine-ripened tomatoes, so I plan on getting my fill this month.

I am not one to graciously accept a gratuitous tomato slice in December (or during a lot of other months, for that matter). Spare me tomatoes grown in greenhouses or shipped from faraway lands. I cringe when I see them thrown into salads, tucked inside an otherwise respectable sandwich, or artfully arranged on a dinner plate “for color.” We’ve all endured those anemic orbs—tough on the outside and dry and grainy inside. Mystery produce trying to pass for the real thing. No thank you. I can wait.

The following dish is one way to capture the flavor of summer before it’s too late. Serve this as a side dish or light entrée, with plenty of good crusty bread to mop up the juices. Use the most flavorful tomatoes you can find—any color and any variety; they don’t need to be picture-perfect. And when possible, use a combination of green and yellow zucchini—the contrasting ribbons of color provide added visual interest.

Zucchini Linguine with No-Cook Tomato Sauce
For the No-Cook Tomato Sauce:
1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, crushed through a press
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of crushed hot red pepper flakes
4 to 6 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds assorted vine-ripened tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
about 1/3 cup coarsely torn or chopped fresh basil

For the Zucchini Linguine:
2 pounds small-to-medium zucchini or other summer squash, skin on
2 to 3 tablespoons California extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Salt

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. In a large serving bowl, mix together 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, the garlic, salt, and pepper flakes. Use a fork to blend in the 4 tablespoons of oil. Gently stir in the tomatoes and basil, to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes or as long as 2 hours to blend flavors. Taste, adding more vinegar, salt, pepper flakes, or oil if needed.
2. Rinse the zucchini well with cold water and pat dry. Trim off and discard the ends. Using a julienne peeler* or mandoline, peel the zucchini lengthwise, evenly working your way all around the squash, and dropping the strips into a large bowl. Continue peeling the firm flesh until you reach the seed core; discard the core. Peel all the remaining zucchini in the same manner. Gently toss the strips to separate them.
3. In a large skillet, warm the oil over medium heat. Working in batches if necessary, add the zucchini and season lightly with salt. Using tongs, toss the zucchini gently to coat with oil. Continue cooking, stirring and tossing, until the zucchini is warm and wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a warm serving platter or shallow bowl.
4. Pour the tomato sauce over the zucchini and toss again. Serve at once, and pass Parmesan cheese at the table. Serves 4 to 6.

* A julienne peeler is an inexpensive gadget to make matchstick-size strips of any length. You’ll find them in cookware shops and in the housewares department of many well-stocked supermarkets. Alternatively, use a potato/vegetable peeler to shave strips from the zucchini; then use a knife to cut each strip lengthwise into thin ribbons that resemble linguine.

This recipe adapts well to improvisation, so set your spirit free.

• For variation, toss Zucchini Linguine with pesto instead of tomato sauce, perhaps adding a few toasted pine nuts or sliced almonds.
• Serve Zucchini Linguine without the tomato sauce as a vegetable side dish, sautéed in olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. Finish it off with a little fresh Parmesan, finely grated lemon zest, or minced fresh herb if you like.
• For a faster, heartier dish, combine No-Cook Tomato Sauce with 1 pound of freshly cooked pasta instead of zucchini.
• Toss in about 4 ounces of room-temperature fresh whole milk mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch pieces; or tiny boccacini. The heat from the just-cooked zucchini (or pasta) will gently melt the cheese, adding gooey richness. If mozzarella doesn’t suit your mood, try another soft cheese like Italian Taleggio or goat cheese.
• Vary the herb in the sauce according to whim: chopped fresh mint is zesty and refreshing; tarragon brings a decidedly French accent; cilantro makes me think Mexico—and prompts me to add a pinch of ground cumin, finely chopped jalapeño, and a handful of fresh corn kernels. And when you’re faced with picky eaters at your table, good ol’ reliable parsley adds color and subtle zip without causing them undue anxiety.
• Onion lovers should seize this opportunity to add a bit of thinly sliced mild onion— or green onions—to the tomato sauce. Chopped sweet bell pepper is another tasty tidbit; ditto for pitted olives, capers, and anchovies.

Come to think of it, this might just be a good time to clean out your refrigerator.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.