Market Fresh – Peas Please

Spring is edging its way into our farmers’ market, with truckloads of tender cool-weather crops like asparagus, artichokes, fava beans, crunchy celery, peas-in-the-pod, and super-sweet sugar snap peas. Fragrant strawberries are coming into their own, followed closely by chubby little cherries. This is the time of year when you don’t want to risk sleeping in on a Saturday morning, for you never know which new crop may debut at the farmers’ market.

Peas are something we tend to take for granted year ‘round, for who among us doesn’t have a bag or two stashed away in the freezer for emergencies? One taste of farm-fresh peas, however, and you’ll know why this vegetable is considered such a staple: all year ‘round, we try to recreate the incomparable flavor now available right at our fingertips. Sure, there is a bit of labor involved when you buy peas-in-the pod, but shelling them is a great job for kids (dare I say “fun”?) and a not-so-unpleasant, mindless task for adults while doing things like watching television. Just be sure to buy many more than you think you’ll need—during the shelling process, raw peas tend to become a popular snack food.

Let’s celebrate Spring 2011 with a pasta salad! Not those ubiquitous wiggly noodles drowning in bottled dressing, but a sophisticated little number with farm-fresh veggies and herbs. Its main ingredient is Israeli couscous—sometimes called pearl couscous because of its color and shape. It may sound exotic, but these tiny balls of baked semolina pasta are widely available. (Do not confuse it with the North African/Moroccan-style couscous, which is different in just about every way.) Look for Israeli couscous in boxes or plastic bags, usually sold in the same aisle as rice and other grains .It holds its shape beautifully during cooking, which makes it popular with children.
This recipe makes a versatile side dish, and something unique to bring to a potluck. As the entree for a casual dinner, consider topping each portion with a piece of grilled wild salmon fillet.

Toasted Couscous Salad with Spring Veggies

1. 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2. juice of 1 lemon
3. 1
4. garlic clove, minced
5. Salt and freshly ground pepper
6. 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon California extra virgin olive oil
7. 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley
8. 2 tablespoons thinly sliced or chopped fresh mint leaves
9. 12 ounces Israeli couscous (about 2 1/4 cups)
10. 1 3/4cups homemade chicken or vegetable stock, or 1 (14-ounce) can of low-sodium broth
11. 1 cup water
12. 1 pound thin asparagus spears, tough ends trimmed away, cut diagonally into 3/4-inch pieces
13. 1 pound farm-fresh English peas-in-the-pod, shelled (about 1 cup)
14. 8 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces
15. 2 or 3 green onions (scallions), white and light green parts only, thinly sliced diagonally
16. 1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano or other hard dry cheese

1. To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Whisk in 1/3 cup of the oil in a slow steady stream. Stir in the chives and mint; set aside.
2. In large, heavy saucepan, heat the 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the couscous and toast, stirring frequently, until most of the couscous is golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock, water, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt; increase the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender yet still firm to the bite, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.
3. Stir the vinaigrette to mix in the herbs; then add 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette to the couscous, tossing gently to coat. Set aside, uncovered, to cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet. Add the asparagus and shelled peas and season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until bright green and just crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar-snap peas and green onions. Transfer the vegetables to large bowl.
5. Add the couscous to the bowl and drizzle in the remaining vinaigrette. Add the cheese and toss gently to coat. Taste, adding salt and pepper if needed. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Serves 6.

Minding Your Peas and Q’s

• There are basically two kinds of peas: English peas (aka common garden peas) that must be shelled to eat the “seeds” inside; and snow peas and sugar snap peas, which have edible pods. Sugar snap peas are plump; while snow peas—a favorite in Chinese cuisine—are flat.
• Like corn, the sugars contained in peas convert to starch shortly after harvesting, so it’s best to buy them fresh at the farmers’ market and cook them as soon as possible.
• Regardless of which variety you buy, always check out the packaging: look for plump, glossy green pods, crisp and free of blemishes.
• Some sugar snap peas have a tough string running along the length of the pod. To remove it, snap off the leaf end and pull down on the string.

5 Good Reasons to Shop at the Farmers’ Market

1. Danville is a certified farmers’ market, which means it’s the real deal—a place where local growers sell products directly to the public.
2. Farmers’ markets give you access to produce picked at the peak of ripeness. There is simply no comparison in nutritional value, flavor, and texture to produce grown thousands of miles away.
3. Elimination of packing, shipping, and wholesale costs means both the grower and the consumer can save money.
4. Walking, biking, or carpooling to your local farmers’ market can help reduce carbon dioxide emissions. Bringing your own shopping bags to the market helps reduce waste in landfills.
5. When you buy locally, your dollars stay in your community.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.