Market Fresh – Spicing Up Summer

Seriously. Is any other vegetable as much fun to eat as corn on the cob? It’s also warm, sweet and slightly crunchy, with a preferred manner of eating that defies every rule of etiquette. But even when the kernels are taken off the cob, corn still reigns supreme as one of America’s favorite veggies. Ask any kid.

It’s pretty common knowledge that corn and tomatoes are the two summer vegetables that simply can’t be faked. Unless you hit a farm stand or grow your own, the only way to ensure quality is to shop at the farmers’ market.

While there, remember that July is prime time for homemade salsa. Be sure to stock up as this salsa, dotted with roasted sweet corn, is a welcome diversion from the classic tomato-based variety. The recipe is also quite forgiving; so vary the ingredients to suit your taste. (A whiff of finely minced garlic, chopped fresh cilantro, or creamy cubes of diced avocado would be right at home here.) Serve Roasted Corn Salsa as an appetizer with tortilla chips; or as a condiment with scrambled eggs, quesadillas, or grilled meat or fish.

Roasted Corn Salsa with Poblano and Lime

Poblano chiles are usually rather mild, but some mavericks can be surprisingly hot. To err on the safe side, taste the roasted peppers before adding the full amount to the salsa.

• 2 fresh poblano chile peppers
• Kernels from 4 ears of farm-fresh corn (about 2 cups)
• 1 tablespoon California olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 vine-ripened tomato, seeded and chopped
• 1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced or chopped
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1. Place the peppers on a broiler pan or small baking sheet and broil as close to the heat as possible, turning with tongs, until charred all over, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame, turning, until charred, about 5 minutes.) Seal the peppers in a paper bag and let steam for at least 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle. Peel and/or rub off as much of the blackened skin as possible. (It’s okay if small bits of it remain.) Cut the peppers open and discard the stems and seeds. Finely dice the poblanos.
2. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the corn kernels with the oil to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread out the corn into an even layer and bake, stirring once or twice, until some of the kernels are lightly browned at the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Scrape into a medium bowl and let cool slightly.
3. Add the diced poblanos, tomato, onion, lime juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss gently to mix.
4. Transfer to a bowl and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Corny Advice

• There are dozens of varieties of corn, each of which differs according to sweetness and tenderness. Which is best for you? For the definitive answers, simply ask the grower who is selling it. He or she has invested a lot of love in this crop, and will happily share their passion.
• The minute corn is picked, its natural sugars immediately begin to convert to starch. For the best possible flavor, serve corn the same day you purchase it.
• Avoid buying pre-shucked corn, as it is difficult to determine how long ago it was picked. Instead, look for tightly closed, plump green husks with fresh-looking cuts at their stems. The golden-brownish silk at the very top of the ear should feel slightly sticky.
• Don’t shuck corn until you’re ready to use it. To remove the husks, peel down with a firm tug–and listen for that squeak of freshness. Pull off as many of the fine silks as you can, then wipe off the remaining threads of silk with a damp towel.
• Grilled corn on the cob is a little bit smoky and totally irresistible. For a deliciously messy change of pace, brush shucked ears of corn with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill, turning, until lightly browned all over. Remove to a cutting board or rimmed baking sheet and immediately brush each ear all over with 2 to 3 tablespoons of mayonnaise and sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan cheese to cover. (For added pizazz, first season that mayonnaise with a bit of finely minced garlic, a squeeze of lime juice, some chopped fresh basil, or a generous pinch of chipotle chile powder.) Yum.
• Removing the kernels from long ears of corn can be problematic, if not dangerous. The tapered ears are wobbly and impossible to keep in place; and the kernel trajectory as you cut can be downright frustrating. A little bit of prep work will make the job a snap: Place a small cutting board in the middle of a rimmed baking sheet. Cut each shucked ear of corn in half crosswise. Working one at a time, carefully hold the top of the cob with your fingers and firmly place the cut (flat) end of the ear on the cutting board. To remove the kernels, use a large, sharp knife to cut downward with a gentle sawing motion. The ears remain more stable this way, and the baking sheet will catch any flying kernels. Add those flavorful milky juices to whatever you’re cooking; and save those naked cobs to flavor soup stock.
• When corn is fresh and sweet, it requires very little cooking. (In fact, it can even be eaten raw.) If you find yourself with an extra ear or two in the vegetable drawer, consider removing the kernels and adding them to a salad. Other fitting final resting places include pancakes or waffles, polenta, pasta, and any sort of veggie stir-fry.
• “Sex is good,“ says Garrison Keillor, “but not as good as fresh, sweet corn.”

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.