Q. My raspberries are not producing any berries. They get lots of stems and leaves but no fruit. They get afternoon sun, plenty of water, and I feed them in the spring. Each October, I prune them back to about six inches off the ground. So, what am I doing wrong?
A. The simple answer is, you’re pruning them wrong. Raspberries plants produce berries on the second-year growth or canes. Once these canes produce, they never produce again, and they’re cut off usually at the ground. The raspberries should be growing on some type of trellis structure but not a fence as they intrude into the neighboring property. The new growth develops at the bottom or base of the plant(s). After you harvest the berries, the old fruiting canes are removed. The new growth or canes replaces them on the trellis. Now, I’m assuming the original plants came from cuttings and not seeds. Raspberries are unpredictable from started from seed. A twist on this is that of everbearing raspberries. Everbearing raspberries (Rubus Idaeus) produce fruit in the spring and again in fall. Unlike summer-bearing varieties, which may have purple or black fruit, most everbearing varieties produce red berries. What you should do now is nothing. This year’s canes will fruit next year, and you prune off then. If you already have pruned, then you’ll need to wait two growing seasons for berries.
Q. When my backyard shade trees lose their leaves, I’ve noticed green patches on the branches near the top. I’ve been told that it’s Mistletoe, and it is harmful. How do I go about getting rid of it?
A. Yes, Mistletoe is harmful to trees; however, the decline occurs slowly. Mistletoe is a parasitic plant that lives off other plants or host to survive. For many years, Mistletoe was limited to the foothills around the Central Valley, but today it is commonly found throughout the Bay Area growing in the canopies of mature, shade trees. Birds are the primary means of spreading Mistletoe as they feed on the clusters. The white Mistletoe berries contain many sticky seeds. The birds carry the seeds from tree to tree on their feet, beaks, and in their droppings, as the seeds aren’t digestible. It’s found growing high in the tree where the birds nest or perched. There are two methods of controlling this problem. They’re both a bit problematical because Mistletoe is hard to get to because they’re so high off the ground. The obvious solution is to prune it out. You’ll need to remove a portion of the branch where it’s growing; otherwise, it grows back from the roots that are still attached. You’ll need a long ladder. Also, Mistletoe may reestablish itself depending on the bird activity, so you’ll have to repeat the process. The second method is to spray the clusters with Florel Fruit Eliminator. Florel is the only product registered for controlling Mistletoe. Florel is a plant growth regulator, so it has no insecticidal, fungicidal, or herbicidal properties. It’s best applied in November or February through April when the temperatures are above sixty degrees. The entire tree doesn’t need to be sprayed, just saturate the Mistletoe clusters. In five to seven days, the Mistletoe should begin to shed its leaves and branches. A second application is only necessary if Mistletoe is still present after three weeks. After spraying the tree, hose off any of the spray residue on the plants that are under the trees. You’ll need a sprayer that will reach the growth. The Mistletoe will grow back, so repeat applications are recommended every three to four years.
Q. We planted a small fig tree from a nursery several years ago. It had three figs about three years ago and has since stopped. It’s tall and sparse. A gardener told me to top it so it would fill out more and start producing, but that didn’t work. What would you suggest to make it fruit again?
A. Typically, Figs fail to fruit because they’re too young or overfed. But, I don’t believe that’s the reason in your case. Instead, I’d look at water stress as the cause. Water stress could be too much or not enough or a little of both during the growing season. Water stress will send the tree into a survival mode, and the tree will simply not have the energy needed to invest in making fruit. Poorly draining soil and frequent watering will prevent the fruit from forming. I’d review your watering pattern. After the rainy season ends, I put a good size watering basin around the tree. It should be six inches tall and extend from the trunk to beyond the drip line. I’d fill it up several times a week with average temperatures and more often when it’s warmer. I’d also feed it once in the spring with an organic, fruit, and shade tree fertilizer.
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