Savoring September

September is one of my favorite transitional months at the farmers’ market, when there is plenty to stir the senses. The rainbow of colorful produce; the bustle of busy shoppers; and the clean, fresh aromas wafting through the cool morning air all contribute a bit of excitement to a weekly ritual. There are also noteworthy deals on end-of-season fruits and vegetables, piled high alongside new fall crops like plump figs and grapes. (When the pears, persimmons, and pomegranates show up, we’ll know that autumn is officially here.)

But while the season for “real” tomatoes is waning and bargain-prices abound for overripe tomatoes at the market, smart cooks rush to capture a taste of summer that can be enjoyed for the rest of the year. When time permits, I go through the traditional canning routine: blanching tomatoes before peeling them; hours of bubbling sauce on the stove top; sterilizing jars and minding pH levels to ensure safety; wiping the jars clean and securing the lids; processing the hot-packed jars in a water bath to seal; yaddayaddayadda.

Other times–like this year–when I want a quick fix, I let my oven do most of the work. Although roasted tomato sauce requires significant cooking time, the actual hands-on activity in the kitchen is minimal and the relatively small yield makes preserving less of a chore—and something I won’t mind repeating several times over the next few weeks. As if that were not enough, there are even more benefits: locally-grown, vine-ripened tomatoes provide the kind of flavor you’ll never find in a can or jar; the sugars in the vegetables caramelize during cooking, providing added depth; and a healthy dose of California olive oil adds incomparable richness. I don’t even bother peeling the tomatoes. Instead, I puree the skins along with the other vegetables, adding a bit more fiber to the finished sauce.

Meaty plum or Roma tomatoes generally make the thickest sauce, but any flavorful tomato will do. Use whichever varieties are cheap and plentiful, and feel free to mix the “odds and ends” from any tomatoes you may have on hand. Last year I made a yummy oven-roasted yellow tomato sauce that always drew raves, substituting yellow bell peppers for the red or green. Yellow tomato sauce is unique in itself—but even more so when served in December.

Most of us automatically think” pasta” when we think of homemade tomato sauce, but there are zillions of ways to use it. Just add meatballs and a crusty roll for a first-class sandwich for football fans; make it the crowning glory for homemade eggplant Parmigiano or stuffed bell peppers; or ladle it over warm polenta, with or without a side of grilled Italian sausage. With only a little effort your freezer can hold the key ingredient for stellar soups and stews, as well as Chicken Scaloppine, Shrimp Creole, Steak Pizzaiola, or Osso Buco.

For a quick appetizer, place about 1 cup of Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce in a small gratin or other baking dish. Slice 1/2-inch thick rounds from a log of fresh goat cheese and arrange them in a single layer over the sauce. Bake in a preheated 400 degree oven until the sauce is bubbly-hot and the cheese is heated through but still holds its shape, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, heat in a microwave.) Sprinkle with chopped fresh basil or parsley, and serve warm as a spread for baguette slices or crostini.

You’ll be glad you’re seeing red. (Or yellow.)

 

Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce

5 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, preferably plum tomatoes or Roma tomatoes

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

2 bell peppers (red and/or green), seeded and coarsely chopped

4 to 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 cup California olive oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano leaves, or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Core the tomatoes and chop into 1-inch chunks, reserving the juices.
2. In a heavy 5-quart roasting pan, combine the tomatoes and their juices, the onions, bell peppers, garlic, vinegar, oil, salt, and crushed red pepper. Toss gently to mix. Place in the oven and cook, uncovered, stirring once or twice, for 1 hour.
3. Stir in the basil and marjoram and cook until the tomatoes have broken down into a sauce and the mixture has thickened slightly, about 30 minutes longer. Taste, adding more salt if needed.
4. Use an immersion blender to puree the sauce to desired thickness—chunky or smooth, your choice. (Alternatively, let cool for 15 minutes. Then, working in small batches, puree sauce in a food processor or blender.)Use at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. Freeze for longer storage. Makes 7 to 8 cups.

 

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.