September is one of my favorite months at the farmers’ market. Though the approach of fall is unmistakable in the cool morning air, afternoons provide all the glories of an extended summer.
This seasonal transition is most apparent at the Saturday farmers’ market, where we enjoy the best of both worlds. While Northern California continues to wallow in an embarrassment of riches—vine-ripened tomatoes, sweet corn, tender summer squash, crunchy cucumbers, plump eggplant, crisp peppers, juicy peaches, nectarines, berries, and a rainbow of melons—early fall crops like apples, dates, figs, grapes, persimmons, and pomegranates are gradually finding their way into the market.
This is the month when smart cooks rush to capture yet one more taste of summer by stocking up on end-of-season produce. If you happen to go a little overboard at the market, taking advantage of bargain prices by buying everything in sight, have no fear. Ratatouille may be the answer to your dilemma. (An overflowing bin of farm-fresh vegetables? Such problems!) But be forewarned: Next week you’ll probably purchase these very same ingredients, just to make another batch.
Ratatouille originated in Southern France—it’s a classic vegetable stew rich with olive oil and fragrant with garlic and herbs. Traditionally each vegetable is sautéed separately, before combining everything to cook low and slow until meltingly tender. It’s delicious—but also time-consuming to make and a bit of a mess. That’s not always the way I want to roll on an Indian summer day.
This streamlined version is roasted in the oven for convenience, providing a more concentrated vegetable flavor. I use a heavy roasting pan (that usually hasn’t seen the light of day since Thanksgiving), because the high sides contain the cooking juices released by the veggies.
The recipe provides very specific measurements for dicing the vegetables, but this is just intended as a guideline. This is a rustic dish, so don’t worry if your knife skills are less than stellar. Just keep everything about the same size as directed; and remember that if the vegetable pieces are larger, they are going to take longer to cook.
As long as I am firing up a hot oven this month, I want to make it worth my while—so this recipe yields a generous amount. Ratatouille is the perfect offering for summer potlucks or barbecues, but an equally practical addition to your home refrigerator. When you see how deliciously versatile this is—for breakfast, lunch, and dinner—you’ll be happy to have it on hand.
When possible, make this at least 1 day in advance. Like most stews, the flavors continue to develop and blend while cooling overnight in the refrigerator.
Ramblings on Ratatouille
Ratatouille can be eaten at once; stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days; or frozen.
Serve as a side dish alongside grilled meat or fish; or, for a vegetarian entrée, over polenta (either soft & creamy, or firm & grilled), quinoa, couscous, or any other favorite grain.
Brush thick slices of artisan country bread with olive oil and grill until the edges are lightly charred. Top with ratatouille.
Fold into omelets or frittatas; or tuck inside pita bread and top with a handful of arugula for a first-class sandwich.
Toss ratatouille with pasta, a few capers, and serve with a generous shower of parmesan cheese.
Top ratatouille with crumbled California goat cheese, or go trendy with a poached or fried egg.
If you have a couple of ears of corn hanging out in the refrigerator, adding the kernels to ratatouille would not be a bad idea. (Veggies that grow together always go together.)
Ditto for adding one or two sliced hot or mild chile peppers. I have also successfully incorporated a few coarsely chopped pitted Kalamata olives; and sliced cooked sausage. All totally untraditional, but all delish.
Oven-Roasted Ratatouille
1 large onion, halved and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
1 large eggplant, cut into 3/4-inch dice
4 small zucchini or other summer squash, cut into 3/4-inch dice
4 vine-ripened medium tomatoes, each cored and cut into 6 wedges
1 large red or yellow bell pepper, cut into 3/4-inch squares
6 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with the flat side of a knife
5 tablespoons California olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 cup (packed) fresh basil leaves, torn or coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon balsamic or other wine vinegar
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
- In a large roasting pan, combine the onion, eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, bell pepper, and garlic. Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with the salt and pepper flakes. Spread into an even layer and tuck the thyme sprigs beneath the vegetables.
- Roast until the vegetables begin to sizzle and release their juices, about 20 minutes. Stir; then continue cooking until the eggplant is very tender and the other vegetables are lightly browned at the edges, 20 to 30 minutes longer. If the eggplant is not soft, reduce the heat to 325 degrees and continue cooking until done.
- Remove and discard the thyme sprigs. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, the basil, parsley, and vinegar. Taste, adding more salt if needed. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold. Makes about 7 cups.
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!
Leave a Reply