Seeing Green – Market Fresh

Given my heritage, one might think March would be all about St. Patrick’s Day. And—well, okay—I admit to giving that particular holiday perhaps more than its fair share of attention. But as soon as I spot the first bunches of asparagus at the farmers’ market, I become slightly obsessed by a different shade of green.

I’m not talking about the same asparagus we see every month throughout the year; the stuff that was shipped halfway around the world before ending up under the fluorescent lights of the warehouse store. That asparagus is bred to look picture-perfect, but tends to be tough and usually lacks any significant flavor. No, my Irish eyes gravitate to the season’s first young, tender stalks from the Delta. Step aside, tulips and daffodils. In my book, asparagus is the undisputed harbinger of spring.

I will gladly don my rain boots early every Saturday morning just to stock up on this, the most elegant of vegetables. But best of all, asparagus means that peas, artichokes, and fava beans are just around the corner. Literally. Only a few stalls away from juicy, locally-grown strawberries.

ASPARAGUS TIPS

• When buying asparagus, select firm, bright green stalks with little or no white and tight, dry tips. Asparagus breaks down quickly after harvesting, losing sugar and moisture, so check the ends; if they are shriveled and dry, the stalks are old.
• If you can’t resist the exotic, remember that white asparagus is comparatively a bit bland; and purple asparagus turns green when cooked.
•  White asparagus is the very same vegetable; it’s just grown differently. The stalks are covered with soil during the growing period to block out the sun, so they never produce chlorophyll—and never turn green.
• To ensure even cooking time, choose asparagus spears that are all about the same thickness
•  Thick or thin? Like people, it’s often the luck of the draw. Asparagus plants live 8 to 10 years. Young plants produce thin asparagus; mature plants tend to produce thicker spears. It’s as simple as that.
•  To store, wrap unwashed asparagus in a damp paper towel and refrigerate in an open plastic bag for up to 4 days. If the spears begin to go limp after 2 or 3 days, rehydrate by cutting a bit off the ends and standing them upright in a container filled with about an inch of water; cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for an hour or two.
• To remove tough ends from asparagus before cooking: Hold a spear near the middle with one hand and near the bottom-end with the other hand. Gently bend the asparagus; it will snap apart at the spot where it begins to get tough. (If you’re a neat-nik, go ahead and trim the ends with a knife.) Discard the tough ends….or freeze them for stock, or toss them in the compost pile.

STALKING RECIPE IDEAS

•  Steam or stir-fry it if you prefer, but roasting asparagus highlights its inherent grassy-nutty flavor. To roast asparagus: On a rimmed baking sheet, toss asparagus with just enough olive oil to coat lightly. Spread the spears in an even layer and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 425 degree oven, shaking the pan once or twice, until lightly browned at the edges and the stems are crisp-tender, 7 to 12 minutes, depending on the thickness.
• Serve roasted asparagus as is, or topped with a shower of grated cheese or toasted sliced almonds. Or, for a change, brown panko breadcrumbs in butter with a bit of finely chopped fresh mint and lemon zest; then scatter over the top.
• If you’ve already fired up the outdoor grill, toss the uncooked spears lightly with olive oil and arrange them diagonally on the grill (so they don’t fall through) and cook, turning with tongs, for 4 to 8 minutes, until crisp-tender. You’ll get that same delicious caramelization that comes from oven-roasting. Indoor grills work perfectly well, too—though it may take a bit longer to cook.
• For a slightly addictive appetizer, dip fresh asparagus spears in a tempura or light beer batter. Deep-fry and serve warm, with either a squeeze of lemon or a dipping sauce.
• Roast asparagus spears until just barely tender. When cool enough to handle, wrap with paper-thin slices of prosciutto or other ham, roast beef, or turkey. Serve at room temperature.
• Why not a raw asparagus salad? Trim off and discard the ends from the fattest spears you can find; then shave them lengthwise on a mandolin or other mechanical slicer. Season the thin slices with salt and pepper, then toss with fruity California olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmesan cheese over the top.
• When you find thin asparagus, try Chef Anne Burrell’s take on the raw asparagus salad: Cut the trimmed spears crosswise into thin rounds; then toss with diced red onion and plenty of finely grated Pecorino cheese. Drizzle with red wine vinegar and fruity olive oil, and season with kosher salt.
• Trim and lightly steam a few baby artichokes. Cut them in half lengthwise; then toss with olive oil and roast in the oven along with fresh asparagus spears and halved tiny fingerling potatoes. Toss with a lemon-caper vinaigrette and serve slightly warm or at room temperature. (Adding a handful of steamed fava beans will only make this better.)
•  Make an Asian-inspired salad by topping cooled roasted asparagus with a squeeze of fresh orange juice and a drizzle each of sesame oil and soy sauce. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and garnish with peeled orange slices.
• Tuck roasted asparagus in omelets, quiche, or frittatas dotted with crumbled California goat cheese; or in simple pasta dishes or risotto.
• Glam up brunch by serving a poached egg over roasted asparagus spears, with or without a slice of smoked salmon or Fontina cheese … or a generous drizzle of Hollandaise. Serve slices of toasted crusty artisan bread on the side

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9am until 1pm. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FAR, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.