September Song

In the early morning hours when it’s cool and still outdoors, fall is definitely in the air. This seasonal transition is all the more apparent at the farmers’ market. Although Northern California continues to wallow in an embarrassment of riches—vine-ripened tomatoes, sweet corn, tender summer squash, crunchy cucumbers, plump eggplant, crisp peppers, juicy peaches, berries, and a rainbow of melons—early fall crops like apples, dates, figs, grapes, persimmons, and pomegranates are finding their place in the market. The best of both worlds.

The following recipe embraces the whole summer-meets-comfort-food thing; a ridiculously simple way to savor fleeting seasonal flavors in a warm and cozy one-pot meal. Add some lightly-dressed salad greens and a loaf of crusty artisan bread from the farmers’ market, and dinner is complete. A mélange of sliced farm-fresh peaches, strawberries, and raspberries for dessert—with or without a dollop of cream or a scoop of frozen yogurt—will make you very popular, indeed.

Except for the basil — which would darken — all the ingredients can be prepared hours in advance; but the risotto must be cooked just before serving. This is not a negative. Risotto is nothing more than fast-food cooked slowly. Think of it as the opposite of a flash-in-the-pan stir-fry  One bite, and you will agree that creamy, just-made risotto is worth every minute spent over the stove.

As is the case with so many recipes, success is simply dependent upon your organizational skills, as well as your ability to follow directions (cough-cough). Before you begin cooking, have all the ingredients prepped and arranged on the counter in the order in which you will use them. Once that is done, this inexpensive, restaurant-quality dish will go together effortlessly.

There is something very relaxing about stirring a pot of risotto, wine glass in hand, letting the heavenly aromas waft through the house, eventually drawing everyone into the kitchen. Or maybe it’s just that open bottle of wine that does the trick… Whichever it is, celebrate these back-to-school days with a farm-fresh family dinner. Even if it’s just the two of you.

End-of-Summer Risotto

• 2 ears farm-fresh corn, shucked
• 2 tablespoons California olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 6 ounces tender young green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 cup arborio other short-grain white rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 4 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth
• 1 cup coarsely chopped vine-ripened tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons chopped or torn fresh basil leaves, plus extra for garnish
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving

1.  Working one at a time, cut each ear of corn in half crosswise with a large, sharp knife. Securely hold the half-ear upright on a cutting board, with its cut-side planted firmly on the surface. Cut downward with the knife, “shaving” the kernels from the cob.* Working over a bowl and using the back (dull) side of the knife, scrape off all the “milk” remaining on the cob, letting it drain into the bowl. (This milky liquid–found only in farm-fresh corn–adds nutrients, flavor, and body to the finished dish.) Repeat with the remaining corn. You will end up with about 1 1/4 cups of kernels.
2. In a sauté pan, Dutch oven, or other heavy-bottom wide saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until just fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the corn kernels and green beans and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are crisp-tender and bright green, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside.
3. In the same pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until translucent and coated with the butter, about 2 minutes.
4. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the wine is absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in 1 cup of the hot broth and cook, stirring often, until absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring often, until the broth is absorbed  and the rice is creamy and tender but still slightly firm in the center, about 15 minutes total.
5. Add the reserved corn, green beans, and corn milk; then stir in the tomatoes and basil. Cook, stirring gently, until just warmed through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan. Taste, adding salt and pepper as needed. Serve at once in warmed shallow bowls or plates and garnish with more basil. Pass extra Parmesan at the table. Serves 4.

(Leftover risotto is generally unheard of at my house, but should you find yourself with some left in the pot: Form cold risotto into patties and sauté in a bit of butter or oil until nicely browned on both sides; then serve with a salad.)

* Halving the ears makes cutting off the kernels less cumbersome. For another bit of added insurance before you get started, place the cutting board inside a large rimmed baking sheet. This should catch any fly-away kernels.

A timely reminder: The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Show your appreciation by supporting the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.