Summer is official now…and even those of us who love to cook welcome an occasional break from working in a warm kitchen. But this doesn’t mean you’ll see me in a drive-thru line. So much of July’s bounty requires little or no cooking, the farmers’ market is my fast-food vendor of choice.Without so much as breaking a sweat, I can easily think of dozens of ways to feast on heirloom tomatoes, figs, watermelon, peaches, nectarines, plums, and yet another crop of glorious strawberries.
And then there’s the corn—now at its peak of perfection. Technically corn doesn’t really require cooking, but it’s difficult to resist the thought of melting butter running down your arm. (sigh) But when the occasional change of pace is in order, take it outside.
Travelers to Mexico are often seduced by some of the world’s best fast food prepared right on the streets: ears of corn grilled over an open fire; then slathered with a spicy dressing and rolled in crumbled sharp cheese. Eaten right off the cob, each messy bite is the perfect balance of sweet, salty, spicy, and smoky—all accentuated with a bracing splash of acidity from fresh lime.
Does this sound like gilding the lily? You bet it is. But there’s a reason this flavor combo remains popular with people of all sorts of dietary persuasions: It simply tastes great.I’ll be the first to admit this may not be the most prudent way to meet your recommended daily quota of veggies, but since fresh corn is available for only a few months each year I consider this recipe a justifiable indulgence.
Mexican Street Corn is traditionally cooked outdoors, but an indoor grill—or even the oven broiler, in a pinch—will still render a delicious result. Some may insist upon taking a shortcut and quickly cook husked ears of corn directly on the grill; but taking the time to first soak the ears in water and then grill them in their husks ensures the kernels remain plump and moist, rather than becoming dry and chewy.
Even with “peasant” recipes such as this, it’s important that each ingredient be of the highest quality, and treated with the utmost respect. That means freshly-picked corn, bursting with natural sugars. And unless you’re growing corn in your backyard, there’s only one place to find it.
Just so the finished dish receives the attention it deserves, I prefer to serve this either alone as a first course or as a Meatless Monday entrée, alongside a big green salad, a platter of sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, and a loaf of crusty artisan bread—all purchased at the farmers’ market. Colorful, easy, and utterly delish!
Mexican Street Corn
4 ears farm-fresh corn on the cob, husks on
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder
1 cup finely grated Cotija* or Parmesan cheese
Coarse (kosher) salt
2 limes, cut into wedges for serving
Carefully peel back the corn husks, leaving them attached at the base of the cob. Pull off and discard as much of the corn silk as possible (the rest will come off easily after it’s grilled.) Fold the husks back over the kernels.
- Soak the ears in a large bowl of cold water for about 30 minutes. (If needed, place a plate on top of the corn to ensure it is completely submerged.) This step will keep the kernels moist by creating steam, and prevents the husks from burning on the grill.
- Preheat a grill to medium-hot. In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise and chili powder.(Feel free to play with the basic mixture to suit your personal taste—e.g., consider adding minced garlic; chopped fresh cilantro; a squeeze of fresh lime juice; a bit of ground cumin, or a dash of cayenne for added zip.)Cover and refrigerate. Place the cheese on a large plate or in a gratin or other oblong dish.
- Remove the corn from the water, drain, and squeeze out any excess water.
- Place the damp corn on an oiled grill and cook, turning often, until the husks are lightly charred all over, about 30 minutes. When cool enough to touch, peel back the husks completely, keeping them attached to form a “handle.” Brush away any remaining corn silk.
- Holding the husk/handle, have each guest brush the mayonnaise mixture evenly over the warm corn kernels, then roll in the cheese and season lightly with salt if desired. Pass lime wedges at the table for squeezing over the corn.Serves 2 as an entrée, or 4 as a first course.
*look for this Mexican cheese in Latin markets and many well-stocked grocery stores
The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad and Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM or visit their web site at www.pcfma.com.This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well.
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