Sweet September

Days may be shorter and the evenings a bit cooler, but here in California, September is little more than a gentle transition into fall.

Although the farmers’ market is still stocked with truckloads of vine-ripened tomatoes and sweet corn, this month marks the final days of watermelons, cantaloupe, blackberries, raspberries, peaches, and nectarines. As nature’s consolation prize, however, September brings the new crop of creamers and fingerling potatoes, sweet potatoes, apples, citrus, figs, and my favorite: Bosc pears.

Unlike other pear varieties, these are best eaten while still slightly firm. For the next few months they will undoubtedly be part of every cheese course I serve—sometimes drizzled with a bit of local honey for added glamour. And Bosc pears will be my first choice whenever I reach for a piece of fruit to snack on, or something special to toss into a green salad.

With their long tapered necks, russeted skin, and almost sandy-textured flesh, Bosc pears maintain their elegant shape when cooked, making them ideal for poaching, baking, or grilling whole or halved. I often sauté sliced pears in butter, seasoned with salt and pepper and perhaps some chopped fresh rosemary or thyme, to serve alongside roasted or grilled pork.

To celebrate September, here’s an easy dessert that delivers all the goodness of pie without any of the angst. Its free-form structure eliminates the drama of easing pastry into a pie tin; blind-baking the crust; and worrying whether the edges will collapse in the oven. Known as a galette in France and a crostata in Italy, this rustic tart is something that belongs in every good cook’s repertoire.

The following recipe can be tweaked to fit your mood. To the filling, toss in a few dried cherries, raisins, chopped walnuts, or sliced almonds; add a pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg; a teaspoon or two of finely grated fresh ginger; or a couple of tablespoons of finely chopped candied (crystallized) ginger. It’s all good.

And no one will complain if you serve a big scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side.

BOSC PEAR GALETTE

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

Dash of salt

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

3 firm but ripe Bosc pears

Buttery Pastry Dough (recipe follows), well-chilled as directed

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut into bits

 

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

2. In a large bowl, stir together the 3 tablespoons sugar, the cornstarch, and salt. Stir in the lemon juice. Working one at a time, stem the pears, peel, cut in half lengthwise, core, and cut into thin slices. Add the slices to the bowl, tossing gently to coat with the sugar mixture.

3. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 13- to 14-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick. Do not trim the edges; they should remain slightly ragged. Loosely drape the dough around a rolling pin and transfer to the prepared cookie sheet. (If the pastry has become soft, refrigerate or freeze the cookie sheet for a few minutes until the pastry is cool.)

4. Scrape the pear mixture onto the center of the pastry, leaving a 2- to 3-inch-wide border around the edge. Scatter the butter pieces over the pears. Using your fingers, fold the pastry border up and over the edges of the filling, pleating the pastry as needed. The fruit in the center of the galette will remain uncovered. Brush the pastry edge lightly with water and sprinkle with the remaining 1 teaspoon sugar.

5. Bake until the pears are bubbly-hot and the pastry is crisp and golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Let the galette cool on the cookie sheet for 10 minutes, then use 1 or 2 wide spatulas to carefully slide it onto a wire cooling rack. Serve the galette slightly warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges with a pizza wheel or sharp knife. Serves 4 to 6. This is best served the same day it is made.

BUTTERY PASTRY DOUGH

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/3 cup ice-cold water

1. In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Process briefly to blend. Add the butter and process, pulsing the machine on and off, just until the mixture resembles very coarse crumbs with bits of butter still visible.

2. With the machine on, gradually pour in the ice water, processing just until the dough starts to come together. Gather the dough into a ball and flatten into a 6-inch disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 1hour or as long as 2 days. (Freeze for longer storage.)

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!

 

 

Pear Pointers

Handle pears gently. Even hard, un-ripe fruit can bruise easily.

 

Pears are picked when fully mature but not ripe. If left to ripen on the tree, they develop deposits of lignin, which cause the flesh to become grainy. So purchase your pears several days in advance to allow time for ripening. (If you’re in a hurry, enclose the pears in a brown paper bag to accelerate the process.)  Once ripe, store in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

 

To judge the ripeness of a pear, start with the sniff test. Then gently press the neck of the fruit—near the stem—with your thumb. The flesh should give slightly to pressure.

 

The average pear weighs in at under 100 calories, with 5 grams of fiber.