Sweet September

Days may be shorter and the evenings a bit cooler, but here in California, September is merely a gentle transition into fall.
Along with the arrival of figs, grapes, apples and pears, the September farmers’ market is loaded with end-of-summer produce bargains. This may be your last opportunity to savor 2018’s sweet berries, stone fruits, corn-on-the-cob, and vine-ripened tomatoes. Don’t miss out. When premier produce is cheap, smart cooks head to the kitchen.

When I was first learning to cook, making Eggplant Parmigiana was A Big Production. Back then—when dinosaurs roamed the earth—there were no farmers’ markets in the California suburbs. Supermarkets were less than super. The process started with a trip to an urban Italian deli to find imported olive oil and cheese that didn’t come in a green cardboard can. Once I was able to locate an (inevitably) old, spongey eggplant someplace, then began the long process of peeling, slicing, and salting the eggplant to draw out the bitter juices. An hour later I was rinsing off the salt and squeezing the eggplant pieces dry… before dipping them in a beaten egg, breading, and dodging hot oil spatters while deep-frying. Then it was time to make a long-simmering sauce out of canned tomatoes. And take a nap.

Life is easier now, at least when it comes to shopping and cooking. Farmers’ market eggplants are harvested and sold while still young, so they are not encased in tough skin and filled with bitter seeds. Good oil and cheese are readily available. And at this time of year, ripe, flavorful tomatoes abound. No peeling, seeding, or pureeing required. Just add a little fresh basil for a chunky, rustic sauce, sure to appease your inner nonna.

End-of-Summer Eggplant Parmesan
This simplified version of eggplant parmesan was inspired by Mark Bittman’s recipe in the New York Times.

California olive oil
2 firm, medium eggplants (about 2 pounds total)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, chopped
2 pounds plum or other assorted vine-ripened tomatoes, cored and cut into small chunks
1/2 to 3/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
About 1/4 cup coarsely torn fresh basil leaves, plus extra for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the eggplants crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices. Arrange the slices in a single layer on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Thoroughly coat both sides of each slice with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake until the eggplant is lightly browned and very tender, 12 to 15 minutes. (If you are baking the casserole soon-ish, do not turn off the oven.)

2. Meanwhile, place a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add about 2 tablespoons of olive oil, swirling until hot. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomato chunks have broken down and the juices have thickened slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste, adding salt as needed. Stir in the basil.

3. In a 2- to 2 1/2 quart gratin or other shallow baking dish, arrange a single layer of eggplant. Spoon some tomato sauce over the top and sprinkle liberally with cheese. Repeat the layers, ending with tomato sauce and parmesan. Bake uncovered until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbly-hot, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with additional basil, if desired. Serves 4 to 6.

Cook’s Tips
Like most casserole-style dishes, it’s perfectly fine to assemble this in advance. Refrigerate, tightly covered, and bring to room temperature before baking. If it’s cold, it will require more time in the oven.

To make the dish more substantial (and satisfy a craving for cheesy goodness) add shredded whole-milk mozzarella between the eggplant layers.

Serve hot from the oven as a side dish, or with a crisp green salad and warm artisan bread for a vegetarian entree. It is also surprisingly good at room temperature, making it ideal for supper on a balmy evening. Should you be lucky enough to have leftovers, it makes a terrific hot or cold sandwich.

When you find a great farmers’ market deal on tomatoes—ones that are super-ripe or less than beautiful—by all means snatch them up.

Double or triple this sauce recipe to freeze for winter pasta dinners.

There’s no law that tomato sauce needs to be red. Try using yellow or green tomatoes, or a combination of colors and varieties. Flavor is key.
If you are so inclined, when making the sauce add a minced clove or two of garlic along with the onion. And if you like a little heat, sprinkle in some crushed hot red pepper flakes. Instead of basil, try flat-leaf parsley or a tablespoon of chopped fresh marjoram or oregano. It’s all good.

The Danville Certified Farmers’ Market, located at Railroad & Prospect, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. For specific crop information call the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association at 1-800-949-FARM, or visit their web site at www.pcfma.org. This market is made possible through the generous support of the Town of Danville. Please show your appreciation by patronizing the many fine shops and restaurants located in downtown Danville. Buy fresh. Buy local. Live well!