Q. I’ve no luck growing dwarf citrus. It didn’t matter if they were planted in containers or in the ground. They are in poor health with lots of dried up leaves and branches. This is the second group of plants. I find no pests, they get lots of sun and I water them maybe once a week. What am I doing wrong?
A. Dwarf Citrus shouldn’t be that difficult to grow when given the proper amount of water and fertilizer. Citrus are not drought tolerant plants. They like moisture. Your “maybe once a week.” watering pattern needs to be more consistent. Irregular watering is the major cause of the dried up leaves and branches. Also, citrus in containers are watered differently than those in the ground. In containers, citrus is watered daily when the temperature is over eighty degrees. For those plants that have been in the same container for more than two years I’d lower the temperature to seventy-five degrees. With established plants, there is less soil and more roots in the container. Beside the heat from the sun, water loss or evaporation of a plant is increased with our typical afternoon winds. This is true of all container plants just not citrus. The container needs to be filled to the brim when you water so there is a sufficient amount of moisture to wet the entire root ball. Also, raise the bottom of the container off the ground so the water flows out the bottom. It’s not necessary to water plants that are in the ground this frequently as once or twice a week is adequate depending on the temperature. However, a watering basin around every plant is a must. The basin should be six to eight inches high and extends from the trunk to just beyond the drip line. Again, you fill the basin to the brim every time you water. When the temperature is over 95 degrees, you would make an additional application. Citrus is fertilized monthly with Citrus Food, year round. After the rainy season has concluded, you always water before and after every application of fertilizer. You will see a dramatic improvement in foliage color along with a flush of new growth in the next six to eight weeks.
Q. I’m curious as to why the leaves/fronds of large palm trees are tied up when they are being transported? Also, how long are they kept tied?
A. There are two reasons for this typical method of transporting palms. The horticultural reason is to protect the critical terminal bud from windburn and dehydration. The terminal bud is where the new fronds or growth originates. If this area is damage the mortality rate is huge.
The second reason is to narrow the canopy so they can be transported on roads, highways and freeways without any special precautions. They are left tied up for several weeks to many months depending on the time of the year, location and variety even after planting.
Buzz Bertolero is Executive Vice President of Navlet’s Garden Centers and a California Certified Nursery Professional. His web address is www.dirtgardener.com and you can send questions by email at dirtgarden@aol.com or to 360 Civic Drive Ste. ‘D’, Pleasant Hill, Calif. 94523